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Started my truck this morning because it's damn hot out there. Got in, nice and cool, hit brake and push start. Engine shuts off, but AC still on full blast. went to re start, no crank. got out, locked it, got back in and fan still on high. It would not shut off, no matter how many times i hit push button. Dash dead, but fan on full and no crank. this went on 15 minutes. Fan stuck on, so i had to disconnect battery. Waited 5 minutes and re connected battery. All good now. Talked to GM rep on phone and he claimed he's never heard of this. Wrong, it's an existing TSB. My dealer said if it acts up, bring it in. No good. Going to another dealer with TSB and they will re program ECM. You have to find answers yourself anymore. Glad I bought ALLDATA DIY. It's up to date TSB"s and service manual. This Service Bulletin is replacing PIT5873G. Please discard all previous copies of PIT5873G. Brand: Model: Model Year: VIN: Engine: Transmission: from to from to Cadillac Escalade Models 2022 2023         Chevrolet Silverado 1500 New (RPO J22, VIN Digit 5 = A / D) 2022 2022 Silverado 1500 2023 2023 Suburban 2022 2023 Tahoe 2022 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 New (RPO J22, VIN Digit 5 = H / U) 2022 2022 Sierra 1500 2023 2023 Yukon Yukon XL 2022 2023 Involved Region or Country America, Uzbekistan, Middle East, Russia, Israel, Palestine, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Thailand Additional Options (RPOs)   Condition Some customers may comment that after using the remote vehicle start, either from the fob or app, they experienced any of the following issues: When they enter the vehicle and press the start button the engine stalls If they try to restart the engine, it will not crank If the remote start times out they are unable to restart the engine with the start button When trying to turn engine off the engine stays running Unable to turn the ignition off Service Steering Column Lock Message, if equipped Dead Battery Cause The cause of the condition may be a Body Control Module (BCM) messaging issue. Correction Reprogram the BCM following service information instructions to update to the newest This Service Bulletin is replacing PIT5873G. Please discard all previous copies of PIT5873G. Brand: Model: Model Year: VIN: Engine: Transmission: from to from to Cadillac Escalade Models 2022 2023         Chevrolet Silverado 1500 New (RPO J22, VIN Digit 5 = A / D) 2022 2022 Silverado 1500 2023 2023 Suburban 2022 2023 Tahoe 2022 2023 GMC Sierra 1500 New (RPO J22, VIN Digit 5 = H / U) 2022 2022 Sierra 1500 2023 2023 Yukon Yukon XL 2022 2023 Involved Region or Country America, Uzbekistan, Middle East, Russia, Israel, Palestine, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Thailand Additional Options (RPOs)   Condition Some customers may comment that after using the remote vehicle start, either from the fob or app, they experienced any of the following issues: When they enter the vehicle and press the start button the engine stalls If they try to restart the engine, it will not crank If the remote start times out they are unable to restart the engine with the start button When trying to turn engine off the engine stays running Unable to turn the ignition off Service Steering Column Lock Message, if equipped Dead Battery Cause The cause of the condition may be a Body Control Module (BCM) messaging issue. Correction Reprogram the BCM following service information instructions to update to the newest software level

Being a member of multiple different brand enthusiast forums, I would say they are about the same for frequency of reported issues. Both have fallen subject to internet amplification in terms of the issues on the gassers being overblown. And each forum has it's own brand-specific echo chamber. Now that 10 speeds are behind both, they are so close that there are more important factors than the engine when deciding which truck to buy.

Oh wow - Haven't seen that mentioned in forever. The first new truck my dad ever bought was a Luv. Never forget that thing. He called the color baby ****** yellow, want to say 1974. He bought it because he was driving 90 minutes into DC for work and gas was on the rise with the oil embargo and you could only get gas on even/odd days depending on your lic plate number. It was harder on my mom, she had a 69 Thunderbird with a 428 I remember sitting in those gas lines with my sisters - wasn't fun. You could drive a couple days on a good handful of quarters. That little Luv was a tough little thing and never ever had problems with it.

When I grew up the average house was around 1200 Square feet with one bathroom and 3 bedrooms. The average truck was a two doors with a radio and heater. The family cruiser was a 4 door car that was smaller than the average truck. That the MSRP was about the price of an economy car today. A family did well with one pay check. Mom stayed home and kids behaved in school. I had a bicycle, a bat and glove. In the summer I worked on a local farm and mowed our lawn. About once a month we had pizza or KFC. We all watched one tv together and didn’t worry about a risqué event. Kids didn’t have multiple week day events that the parents shuffled them to out of guilt. Because that’s what the everyone did. Followed by a drive through then home to bed. On Sunday we went to church. On Monday we pledged to our flag and said a silent prayer before class. Teachers weren’t trying to feel up students or change their sex. They taught history and respect. And our cars fit in parking lots.

I don’t think we disagree here. Just advocating for common sense and etiquette in merging. As someone already on the highway you can see the string of cars attempting to get on long before they see you. If you have the ability to move over or adjust your speed to avoid conflict, you should. Things go a hell of a lot smoother. We have 4+ lanes here and unfortunately most people drive like magnetic fields are keeping them stuck in either the leftmost or rightmost ones. Semis are rarely the problem.

They won't cover it at this point, not even worth it to try. If I had to guess at the cost with current labor rates it's probably $500-600. A GM part is going to be ~$200 and labor in that 200-300, add tax and fees. Smaller shops will be cheaper and so with aftermarket parts. I've always gone aftermarket because of cost and never had a failure.

2023 Silverado 1500 RST 6.2L with max tow-package 220 amp alternator. I never leave lights on, or leave the phone or any other device plugged in the truck etc. I have less than 2500 miles on the truck and have been stuck with a battery too low to crank the starter twice in warm coastal Virginia temps. The weak battery issues started within the first two weeks of ownership. In the beginning, the noted issue was the factory radio cutting output to the speakers, at what seemed random times while I was driving. It didn't matter what source, iPhone, Am/FM/satellite, there would suddenly be no sound for any features at all like navigation etc... it would come back on after the truck was turned off and restarted sometime later. I didn't know what was going on with that. I was told the truck is programmed to cut non-essential accessories when battery power is low, ok, but why is my battery power low? After learning that the speaker cut out was possibly related to the battery charge I began to pay attention the the battery meter on the dash, sure enough, somewhere between the first quarter and the normal mid mark is where sound would cut out. I had the dealer check my battery out last time I called roadside assistance due to a too dead to crank battery and I was fed the same line others have mentioned about how the battery and alternator are fine, but I need to drive my truck more to give the alternator the chance to charge the battery back up. They also told me to have the aftermarket stereo amp installer check out the wiring as it could be a parasitic draw...but the problem began before the amplifier was installed...no explanation for that. I do drive short distances, I work at a hospital 3 miles from my house, I work 12 hour shifts. I basically drive to WalMart, Home Depot and Tractor Supply, maybe TJMaxx if I score a hot date with the hubby, everything is less than 5 miles from home, I can't help it, I'm simple and love living a small town life. I'm putting like 100 miles a week on the truck unless I am towing the camper out of town. Driving more than I am required to for my needs is not an acceptable solution to the problem. Having to plug my truck into a battery maintainer every night is not an acceptable solution to the problem. I think those kinds of suggestions are lazy brush-offs. When the service department said that, I felt what they were really saying between the lines is that they don't value my time or safety enough to look into it any further, I'm on my own. The truck, as originally equipped, is not presently able to power all the electronic functions they've loaded into it. It isn't working as advertised, so to speak. The paranoid conspiracy theorist inside me wonders how much of the problem maybe wireless data collection behind the scenes- you know...just when is the My Chevrolet app getting my vehicle data? Is google tracking everywhere I drive? How much power does the endless privacy invasion require and is it occurring when the vehicle is shut off? Will a tinfoil hat help? I have tried driving with start/stop always turned off, I never put my phone on the charger, I completely disconnected my aftermarket stereo amp. Did this, not using multiple featured factory Chevy conveninence options sold to me for two weeks, this included a 175 mile day trip and two extra 50 mile shopping trips I didn't need to make but did just to see if the alternator could "catch up" with the extra miles . Nothing changed. The truck dash battery meter shows center/normal before I shut the ignition off, the next time I go to start the truck, whether it's 12 hours or 12 minutes later, the battery meter is down to the first quarter and it takes a long time to get back to center...again without running any elective electronic features, and with nothing plugged into any outlets. Every single day is the same story. I got mad because I couldn't improve the situation even with going without things I wanted to use, so I said F-it, and hooked my amp back up...of course after a few hours, the speaker feed signal cuts out again because the battery is low so I still have no music. Personally (anectodally/gut-feeling/no engineering knowledge/empiric data or psychic powers involved) I think it may be that GM put an insufficient battery in, I suspect every manufacturer puts crappy/minimal batteries in these days. I had a similar problem with my previous 2018 Honda CRV; the original factory battery drained slowly, constantly, to the point it wouldn't start like once every two or three weeks, phantom parasitic draws with absolutely nothing but the original facotry equipment and diligence with ensuring everything that can be manually turned off was off every time I shut the car off. For the CRV, I put a Die Hard platinum AGM battery in and never had a problem again, my son is still driving it and hasn't had any problems. This is what I'm trying for the truck next, though I'm having a hard time looking for the right size battery and understanding what is more important for my issue...I don't think it's the cranking amps I need to worry as much about, I'm inclined to think its the amp hours and reserve capacity that I should pay the most attention to, but I'm not sure. I also don't like that one auto parts store says a battery they have is an exact match for my truck but that manuafacturer's (Optima)website says they DONT have an exact match. I wish someone could tell me what a good battery is and which specific one can drop right into my truck so that the person at the auto parts store will actually do it for me. If a new/better battery doesn't fix the problem I honestly don't know what I'll do, I'm upset about having this issue at all, like really upset, to the point it has soured my overall opinion of the truck as a whole...yes I can still lay a nice strip of rubber at the stop light if I am so inclined but I can't annoy the outdoor patrons of the corner brew-pub with 1300 watts of Lynyrd Skynyrd. I don't want to lose my temper with people, even ones who patronize me- I don't like making a fuss, I just want it to work the way it is supposed to. If I go back into the shop with the same trouble and get told to drive more miles or use a trickle charger again I fear I could blow a mental gasket. I'll either cry like someone killed my kitten or set the place on fire, it's anyone's guess at that point. The entire reason I bought this truck was so I could take my camper out nice an easy- Memorial Day weekend I cancelled my trip because I was afraid of getting stuck with a dead battery in a remote location with no cell service...a couple hundred miles from our old and reliable 2012 Silverado. I'm pissed off I have to call my husband to bring the old Silverado out to the hospital late at night to jump my brand new one. His truck sits undriven for weeks at a time with a eight+ year old battery in it and it cranks every time...even with an aftermarket stereo amp in it. it's making me sad that I hold more love and respect in my heart for the old 2012 Silverado than this new one I paid literally 2X the money for. Is there anything else I should try to resolve the battery drain? I want to love this truck so much, but right now I just feel like a fool for having bought it!

Wait, they have speed traps in Illinois? Even at 5 or 10 over I get passed like I’m standing still going through Chicago. I don’t think I’ve ever seen someone pulled over. On the subject of the interstate, it boils my blood when people don’t move over or slow down and let you onto it! The merge lane is pretty short, people. Or when someone ahead of you is only driving 35 MPH up the on-ramp, sentencing you to certain death. Also hate when people don’t move over for disabled vehicles or traffic stops when there’s no reason they can’t. Like everyone has lane-lock on.

My truck has been produced and now shows on dealers site as in transit. We are finally starting to nudge closer to the finish line hope it comes soon.

Here's an update. For starters I changed tips. It helped a little. I contacted AFE and asked if anyone else has complained about this. And if they had any ideas on how to fix it. They suggested to try a resonator muffler. The person that I was talking to didn't have the pipe measurements. If I would take measurements to see how big of one could be used. I measured and and came up with that I could get one 17 inches overall total length. They made one and I'm going to test it to see if it works. And get back to them. It arrived this week, but I won't be able to try it until next week. I have 2 ideas on where to add it. It's basically cut to fit. There are 3 different pipes in front of the muffler. One way is to take out the middle pipe, there's still some cutting. And the other is to cut the first pipe, this is the flange pipe. Cut right behind the hanger and then go from there to the muffler. When I get it done, I'll let you know. And hope to have pictures too.

That is the correct way. Felt pad on the seat side. Same 2019-current. The cable and the body coming out of the floor trim, that is part of the seatbelt anchor pretensioner. You can't install those on opposite sides, they are side specific and only attaches one way. Here is a picture of the right hand side anchor pretensioner. Notice the door side of it has no felt: And here is the other side of that cap where the belt comes out of. If its causing you a rattle, get a square of felt like that and stick it on the other side.

Just for grins I looked it up. It’s not that far off depending on gearing, tires etc.

I used to be the guy passing everyone. But that was during the double nickel days. I’m perfectly content with the speed limit today. During my trips from the lake Conroe area to Fayetteville at 72 MPH I’m the slow guy. Even some big rigs pass me. If there’re doing the hill dance I’ll stay ahead but not slow them down. I actually plan my travel to hit Atlanta on the weekend. It’s the worst for traffic I’ve seen. Yes including Houston. I don’t mind the 20 over speeders with one exception. They’ll line up in the left lane and stay there. They can’t be bothered moving to the right. So you have to be mindful of weigh stations where trucks are bundled together getting up to speed. So you move to the left and by law ( a little known fact) you have to match their speed. But of course there’s always that one guy who at five miles under moves over. What you end with is a 55 MPH traffic jam until the trucks get up to speed. Then they catch up to the slow guy and they start passing him going uphill doing 56 MPH. The fast drivers start passing the truck to the right keeping him from getting back left. If people would just calculate all that nonsense they’d realize they’re not really getting there faster. If they really wanted to get into the weeds their gas mileage suffers. The extra time there’re at the gas station negated the speed advantage.

I have a small complaint about the new truck. Finally, I can honestly say, there is something that's a bit of a let down. Maybe it's my trim lvl? higher models have better? IDK, maybe someone can enlighten me there. These big mirrors, they seem to me to be big hollow plastic recycled milk jugs. I flipped them out to wide stance while towing a water tank, didn't really need to just wanted to try it. Not impressed - do they work? yep, Do they operate? yep Do they do the job? yep.....When flipped out, I did get some movement out of them on back country roads. So just to be sure I was still an objective (mostly) unbiased and not an unrealized fan boi without context, I think they're kind of crap. The best logic I can come up with is, they will rip off easily sacrificing themselves for the body/doors by intentional design of lightest, thinnest, cheapest piece of crap that will meet minimum parameters. For me, they just don't hold the same level of design and quality of the rest of the package - What say Ye? I need a "Cool Hand Luke" moment to get my mind right?

Georga is something else. Only state I know of where traffic moving 20 over the limit is being passed by cops doing 40 over.

Sixty two mph governed trucks that honk at you for doing 65 when they can catch a few extra past the limiter going down grade and then ask for your indulgence when they can't get their overweight butt's up the next grade at 55. Or the guy on governor that tries to pass on a four lane and is one mph faster and takes about 5 miles to make that pass holding up the wax works. Guy behind you starts with the horn and lights like you can do something about it. So, I do. I slow down 10 mph and let the guy trying to pass around. Guy behind me lays on the horn longer and flips you off. Guess his steering wheel is locked or something.

@453030 yeah, that's exactly the thing, now that I've gotten a deal at well below MSRP, there's no way I'm going back to sticker prices ever again. It just blows me away that enough people are paying these insane amounts that dealers don't have much incentive to take the time to special order me something and make a deal. They have people forking over MSRP and then some for whatever they end up with on their lots. Though, I am getting wind from Youtubers and people I know in the business that lots are starting to fill up again so hopefully things are on their way to being slightly less insane.

I'm ready for a new 10 speed 6.6L dyno. Anyone out there that wants to be the first? It would be so amazing to compare it to the dyno run from the 6 speed....C'mon all.....one of you can do it.....One up TFL...I promise you all if I had the 10 speed, after a thousand miles it would be dynoed. My wife has venmo. you do it, I'll pay for it.

Good Luck Shaun. To be young and determined, that's a good thing.

Seems like dealerships are getting in the way more and more as time goes on. If I could just order direct from Chevy I would probably do that, even if I had to pay MSRP and wait 6+ months.

Summer is finally here!

Soooo…… when will you be making them and offering them up for sale?

Why would you send a PM instead of answering here where others can use the info!?

I’m very interested in the relay option. I’ve also heard the fuel injector relay is a good option. Do you where either of those are in a 2020 1500?

23 AT4 tan one. Took my 2019 gas Sierra to make a deal on a 23 Silver SLT with the Duramax. They've been difficult to find here and this AT4 was up the hill still wrapped in some plastic. While we negotiated on the Silver SLT, the salesman managed to get this to the front door to show me. I was sold. IT's my retirement ( in another 24mos ) gift to myself.

Welcoming spring with some rollers!

This is how my install turned out, T tapped off of the door sills once installed and put RGB strip with a fancy controller for it all. Turned out great.

Just drove up to Toronto to check out the Canadian Interational Auto Show and saw 3 twins there. A Z71, a Trail Boss and a Denali. Wish I had some more shots of the Canyon but it had a crowd for a while. I think my biggest gripe is no physical headlight switch. This is IMO the biggest offense of the twins. 2nd biggest gripe is power passenger seat is exclusive to GMC AT4, AT4X and Denali. My 2016 Colorado LT with the LT lux package had a power passenger seat. 3rd biggest gripe is no availability of a factory LED headlight option on the Trail Boss. Even if it was $895 or something, it would be a worthy option. As for minor gripes, all the GMCs have that ZR2 style high clearance front bumper, which doesn't look good on the Denali. As for materials, I would agree with you steelerdude. My current 2022 refresh Silverado LT, the door panels up front have a more premium feel than the Z71 Colorado I saw, especially the top of the panel (arm resting area). Gauge cluster was a bit odd as it doesn't function like the refresh Silverado one does (nor does it graphically look as good IMO). It cycles through 4 main pages of info (gauges, radio, off road and I forgot the last one). And if you want to alter what they show its controlled via the radio. What I found nice in the radio that I played with in the TB was there was a LOT of data that was viewable. G meter, off road angles, elevation, vehicle data, etc.

Hey all - It's been a while since I provided an update. So I want to share that recently my dealer requested an on-site GM Tech review of my truck because the issue was still occurring. (See original post) The tech authorized the replacement of the fuel injectors and about 200 miles later I think all is good. No more hesitation or Stutter at 40mph/1100rpm. There is also a difference in driveability. Much smoother starts from stop signs.

Hello Reid, our company makes these shutters. You can cut a notch in the blade that is in your way or completely remove it. That will not throw a code. It will only throw a code after 3 attempts of not opening or not closing. It reads the actuator position located in the center of the frame. It does not have any limit switches on each vane. So basically you can remove all vanes as long as the computer "thinks" it is moving them by reading the actuator position. I hope that I helped.

These testimonials to the longevity of our trucks are wonderful to read but conflict with my arguments for buying a new truck!

Been on travel since last week but the consensus is that the filter is clogged and thus stopping the engine lets the debris fall and starting it up sucks up the debris. Time to find out and search for some $ to pay for this Thanks!