Good review, be careful with that fluid film. I have heard it will react with the frame coating, Nox rust they call it. I have not personally tried it, but I know if it does come off you will have a very hard time obtaining any rattle cans of the Nox rust from Daubert chemical company. I have found my 6.2L gets better mileage than my 5.3L, even with heavy 10 ply 33x12.5's, but my 5.3L does have 10 ply E loads on it as well but only 31" tall and I run premium in the 376 for what its worth. Maybe my foot is always trying to make it move like my 6.2L. Congrats on your purchase, sounds like you picked a good one.
We all experience problems with service providers. Social media slander is never the answer to any of life's problems. How would you feel if you ran a business and a dissatisfied customer attacked your Goodwill via social media, instead of rectifying the issue with you personally? While it is extremely irritating to deal with issues sometimes, you just have to choose the right approach to get the best results. If you want to blast GM, that is what these forums are for ;)
Extended warranties are a scam. They say bumper to bumper then put a massive list of almost everything from the bumper to bumper that is not cover in fine print, upside down in the corner of the last page. Then charge you $3K saying you can get it all back if you don't use it, but if you use it, you get nothing back. So when you have your first claim on a $200 part, you better hope another $2,800 worth of shit breaks on it. New vehicles are throw away garbage, that is what the industry wants and that is what they have created. They don't want you truck on the road in 15 years. They want you back in the door buying a new one every 4 years. So it is either pay our your payment fixing an older truck to keep it going, or trade every 4 years before it becomes an expensive turd.
Yeah makes sense, a small wheel will rotate faster at 1500rpm than a large one. But why does everyone go to a larger pulley, or are they just talking about the crank pulley? A smaller SC pulley would mean more risk of belt slip then too?
I have done numerous plug/wire changes over the years. On more than one occasion I had a faulty new plug, but if it is misfiring a CEL will appear and your scan tool will tell you which cylinder it is. I have also had bad wires new out of the box. Did they change the fuel filter? Edit: good that you figured it out. I wouldn't have though the gap would be a huge concern. Must have been really far out of whack if it was missing. It is vital to have this gap right on 2 stroke and high performance engines. You can get a plug guage tool for about $2 at Autozone.
Please correct me if I am wrong but, if you put a larger pulley on your blower it will offer more boost, not a smaller one. Your serpentine belt spins the chargers rotors that attached to the drive pulley. The serpentine rotates at a given RPM based on engine RPM. If you belt is spinning a 30mm pulley at 1,500 RPM, the supercharger rotors will be spinning faster than a 27mm pulley at the same 1500 RPM? I can see a smaller pulley offering more throttle response as there will be more parasitic loss with the larger pulley but ultimately top end rpm and peak horsepower will be higher with a bigger pulley no?
10SierraA.T. replied to 3737's topic in 2019 Silverado & Sierra 1500Only GM fans could be upset about what, 4 or 5 different engines? Lol, if I have any issue at all it is whether or not GM learned how to tune an automatic transmission yet. And after seeing the top speed run of the new ZR1, it is pretty evident that they haven't figured it out yet. If you want power, buy the 6.2L, I have one and you really don't need more power in a half ton. If you want economy then buy the diesel or 4 banger, if you want a happy medium, buy a 5.3L. What more do you want? Sure I would love an LT4 powered Sierra, but that means the whole truck would have to be re-engineered to support it: stronger TC, bigger brakes, lower centre of gravity, better driveshaft, Z rated tires, larger trac bars etc. Until the 90's it was rare to have more than 2 engine options. We are getting spoiled rotten with engine choices IMO.
I have the round LED Morimoto's in my 2015, good looks, lighting is great for a fog light too. But if you want serious light output, go with cubes. Factory fit and look, and an upgrade go with Morimoto.
Best way to avoid swirl marks is to not make them in the first place. Lateral movements with a sheepskin mitt, never circular on any colour, especially black. Grit guards are huge in protecting the paint. Wash the way Ammo way like posted and you will never have to polish your truck. Ceramic coating will do magic too once you have it looking like glass again. No swirls in my 2015 on a two pail system. .
Scales weigh your axle groups, not the whole load. As long as they are under, you wont be over your GCWR. Unless you have a 20,000lb load on a gooseneck tridem trailer and a pusher axle lol. This is why the HD claims are hilarious "Tows 30,000lbs." Well, sure it will, but you wont be able to spec a trailer that will legally accept that weight. Take your truck and trailer to your scale and ask them to make you a GAWR slip for your truck and trailer combo. Towing capacities are a guesstimate, it will change with each trailer.
My friend pulls his 32' with over 900lbs tongue weight and a Honda Foreman with a 1500, not saying that is the best idea of course but the truck handles it pretty well until you hit a hill. That is a cake walk for a 2500.
LOL true! Looks like a big set of slotted and drilled Brembo's hiding under those wheels. From your sig, I see you did the Wilwood upgrade, it should stop that light K2 like a car now no? But I definitely feel you on that. 707hp would be better suited for a low-slung SRT-10 type build, and even those needed a parachute to slow down sometimes. Here in Canada we have bad roads with holes that will swallow cars, so high HP trucks are often a "more livable" choice than say a Corvette or ZL1. Never owned a car either. But I give props to Mopar for considering it, as GM only seems to want to offer $5,000 sticker packages. Which people seem to buy for some reason unbeknown to me. Although I want a C6Z more than anything, I know a sport truck would be a better choice for my summer-only vehicle in my rural region. There was one C6Z in my town and the guy sold it because it was too rough here to drive it anywhere but the Trans Canada highway. Not all of us have those silky smooth concrete interstates everywhere. Cheers, thanks for the laugh.
I don't know why people were expecting better numbers, they made it pretty clear that the engine family will serve the T1 generation AT LEAST. If 10hp makes a world of difference to you, install a CAI and/or a cat back and a tune and be done with it. The 5L is a DOHC engine designed for sports cars. Have you driven one of the earlier ones in an F150? They are torque-less (updated now to 400lb-ft) but before they would just rev out all day and barely move when compared to an L83, especially if you loaded them up. The pushrod motor was always stronger in the department that matters, especially for trucks, being torque. That is what moves your heavy butt down the road with maximum efficiency, not HP. Even with the updates, I would not choose a high revving, small displacement, complicated DOHC engine to pull loads over a 16v pushrod engine that puts out close to the same figures. IMO Ford took a cheap and efficient route of building 1 V8 to fill the voids with the main concern being the Mustang GT. While a 5.3L is a proper truck engine, the Coyote is a proper sports car engine. Yes now it may be putting up better numbers than the 5 year old L83, but I am willing to bet they will grenade faster due to the additional 150 moving parts, 6 foot timing chain, and a powdered metal oil pump gear that explodes at 500hp. Sure it's a shame you can't get a 6.2L in a SLE or LT, but that is the cheapest and best Horsepower mod you can do. All the power you need, full warranty, $2k upgrade no brainer. If you wait for the right time of year you can get serious dough off MSRP, have your dealer search if they don't have what you want.
They might, with the new rounded F150 wheel wells. We wont know until we have one on the lot. The AT4 and Trailboss have leveling kits stock I believe so they will probably clear a 33". I have 33x12.5R20's on my current truck with a level and a slight rub. The width is the issue in relation to the factory wheels +27mm offset, not the height. I could probably fit a skinnier 34" with no rubbing, or add a 0.25" spacer to cure the rub with my stock wheels. .
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