Thomcat

NO, and not because of the 8 speed....... the '20 is one year newer with 5,200 less miles than the '19 which already has one owner on the title. And I'm sure the original owner took a bath and it's on the used lot for a very good reason....not the story the dealer gives you and certainly not because the owner was pleased with it. Go new....may as well take a chance on buying your own problems rather than buy someone else problems.....it will cost you a lot more than the extra $2500. when you drag it back kicking and complaining a few months later.

Unlike the previous K2s with CD slot , the '19s regardless IOR/IOS/IOT won't play videos *mpeg or show pictures *jpeg but will play audio *.mp3 files....nor will the USB or mini USB ports using a flash drive.....the SD port is on the USB hub and basically operates like another USB port.....probably the only reason why an SD card was chosen over a flash drive for the NAV was because it is basically hidden/out of the way and the card is physically locked in place during operation. On mine, with the SD Nav card removed or if you try to activate the Nav or if you try to operate when the vehicle is off and profile hasn't booted, it will default to OnStar and ask for a signup to OnStar for the feature and continue to screw it up until the vehicle is turned off and gone through the timeout delay.....and then with the SD card in at startup will go through the normal Profile/bootup and factory Nav restored with no ill effects.

Cut out the front pockets to install the sports bar and feed the CMHSL power leads into the pocket hole of my '16 Silverado.........& the same way I cut out the hitch ball in the cover the cover on the '06 Colorado bumper cover. The edges are scored and the plastic underneath the score mark is thinner. All it takes is a sharp blade of triangular blade utility knife and a little pressure to cut out the plastic neatly at the score line. Amazon even sells a plastic handle that fits into the rear pocket to get extra leverage to boost yourself into the bed. And the bumper foot wells are cut much wider and deeper on the T1s than the K2s............provides larger space to accommodate a booted foot and mounting of optional side radar modules.

Nothing new, used also in the K2s.......can be used for stakes to secure cargo......but they are shaped that way on purpose, to be used as convenient handholds in conjunction with the foot wells in the bumper to help boost up and into the bed.......not much good if you have to look for a screwdriver to pry out caps every time you want to climb into the bed.

May be mistaken, but I thought all '19+ T1s came stock with Start-Stop....so how come no Auto-Stop indicator on the face of the tach?

I'm tired of checking for water leakage every time it rains......after 14 mos. if it doesn't leak, it ain't gonna leak. Fayuo E4 is for the glass and has nothing to do with the frame. Too bad not more pictures of the interior of the frame itself. And what's with this sealant? The number of casualties seem to be dropping off with time.......could it be that GM has already solved the problem but the solution too costly to retrolfit, let alone by half a$$ed attempts by inexperienced personnel at some dealerships? So all you get is the cheapest quick and dirty fix I examined my frame and window carefully to compare what I could see in photos of failures. The top frame of my rear window is .065 cm or almost 3/10 of an inch thick at the spots where it typically cracks. Pretty thick to spontaneously crack....could be there is a rev on the frame and not the glass. In addition the whole frame is secured with black silicone rubber, not the snot they used to seal my leaking Silao Avalanche. Sealed to the body so tight there is no way in he!! that the dealer can remove that frame without breaking it apart and not practical to use the OEM silicone for field repair replacement installing a new frame because of prep time on surfaces, inconsistencies in bead placement and cure times........that's a job best suited for a GM robot on a freshly painted and cured surface and not some quickie job with a layer of crap they lay on top of leaking sealant that has already been compromised.

Here's my .02 for what it is worth. Saw the greatly improved operation of the '19 Silverado LEDs over my previous '16s HID projectors. I wanted LEDs so that's why I paid the extra bucks for them stock on the upscale models of my Silverado and the and Traverse rather than jamming just any substitute in a lens housing not designed specifically for them. Seems I have one advantage, because intuitively I don't know $hit about what's best for substituting a particular LED source in a generic housing designed for a different design halogen bulb. . But, I do know enough not to take the word of any marketer with a vested interest in selling them deferring to someone who doesn't have a dog in the fight with the ability and equipment to conduct and unbiased objective test. The best video I've seen on the subject not only includes the theory but puts all then different brands and types of LEDs to measurable physical testing in multiple type automotive reflector housings. Worth a look at this video to answer all the above by an objective tester. Basically demonstrates that an intelligent choice is not based upon brand, specs or brightness, but strictly upon the LED's ability to duplicate the point source of the halogen filament designed for a reflector housing. Here are some takeaways: Fan or no fan doesn't mean crap. The newer COB (chip on board) LED designs run much cooler absent reduce the amount of heat generating support circuitry and generate much less heat. Brightness of the LED has nothing to do with the amount of light exiting the Lens and available on the road. A properly designed lower output LED will put more light on the road than a poorly designed higher output brighter LED. A poorly designed lower output LED will cause more oncoming driver blindness than a higher output brighter LED. The further the LED design in mimicking a point source the greater the chance of projecting a poorly focused beam. Regardless of price and brand, the closer the design is to a single output LED in the thinnest heat sink carrier properly located at the same distance focus point as the filament of the halogen bulb it replaces.....the greatest the compatibility with the reflector housing in placing the maximum amount of light on the road with the proper focus to prevent blinding drivers.

.02 Go simple first....been there, done that........I don't believe the '13 had hydroboost so the vacuum brake unit operates on manifold vacuum only. If the check valve to the power brake vacuum booster fails or the booster diaphragm develops a leak.... air will be drawn into the intake manifold, the engine will lean out and stumble and maybe even stall. Power braking will work just fine at speed with maybe a little leaning of the mixture, but no way a steady idle speed in Drive could be maintained at a stop with an air leak in the brake booster system.....may still work OK in Neutral and on cold start with the higher engine speed and greater vacuum draw to compensate, but not in Drive which is the minimal RPM for smooth, non stall operation. Quick diagnosis is with the car stopped and engine idling in drive, foot down on the service brake if it stumbles with brake down and recovers with brake up they are a likely candidate. Next to confirm......carefully with vehicle stopped, parking brake fully on, foot off service brake, idling in Drive and maybe not dead smooth with an air leak, but there should be no similar stumbling or stall.

I seriously doubt it .Had an '07, '12 & '13........The Avalanche and bed are integrally welded units unlike a Silverado with separate cab and bed units bolted onto a common frame.. Even if you knocked out the whole sail area, the rear of the cab and removable window are not designed to be waterproof like on my '16 or '19 Silverados, and you'd lose the CMHSL. In fact both my Silverados had the sports bar because I really liked the look of my old Avalanches, and unlike the Avalanches, on the Silvy's remove a few bolts and the sports bar/roll bar comes right off. Found the Silverados to be more than practical than the Avalanche....a little rougher ride with leaf springs on the rear, but cxan carry full 4'x8' sheets enclosed with a tonneau cover and with front buckets still keep 5 seats occupied......with the midgate down and rear seats folded the Avalanche becomes a two seater with the back of the cab open to rain, wind and noise. Loved the Avalanches but technology moved on with AutoAndroid, HD cameras and monitors and radar controls, 8 & 10 speed DFI & DFM engines, drive by wire on the steering and braking, etc.

Not just the lifters which fail collapsed when oil. starved, so not too much damage, on the lifters, but whatever else the leaking oil gallery and localized pressure drop feeds for lubrication, i.e. bearings themselves, are compromised. Maybe nothing, but maybe something. Time will tell, that's why now is the time to dump Humpty Dumpty and pray the sales manager is smart enough to make a decent deal to cut losses.

Thanks, for the photos. Those holes look like the source of many headliner leaks. That's why I'll live with an occasional expansion "pop" instead of getting the dealer to monkey around with those seals that are not leaking. Had those same thin crappy "O" seals around the bolts anchoring the spoiler on my Camaro. The way to go was to place a heavy blob of silicone rubber on the nut/washer and then tighten it....excess rubber just squeezed out and wiped off, but the holes are completely sealed from the inside-out.....and no more trunk leaks!

.02 I agree time for a new truck.....they only get two tries to glue together Humpty Dumpty properly ......not worth the time and effort to go through this twice again before you can start the hassle and spend time pursuing a lemon law claim......and even on chance they do get it presentable, you'll always have that half a$$ed engine repair on your mind every time you take a trip, or you hear a tap, whirr, stutter or bang. "Got to know when to hold 'em and when to fold 'em" and decide which is more important your mental health or your wallet. Doubt they'll ever go for swapping for a new one, but they will go for a trade plus a pay the difference that you can work out. A twofer for them - they get to move the freight on a new car and when repaired on GM's dime they have a low mileage clean truck that their used car manager can hawk as a creampuff, returned because it was too big for the owner's wife to handle or some other "cocque and bull" story that will not show up as repaired engine damage on Carfax. Have to decide whether the extra bucks are worth your piece of mind throughout ownership. Yes, not fair, just consider the cost to be a tuition fee for another course at the School of Hard Knocks, where it took me 70 years to earn my PhD.

Amazon was out of stock for my color in buckets for double cab so I ordered for the buckets, crew cab.......not only had all I needed, but extra and included the saddle bag ones for the console. Only difference was the small one for the middle of the rear door storage pocket which was easily cut from one of the extras.

Same as mine.....my guess is that the accumulator bleeds down overnight and it after inital startup and shifting it takes a few seconds for the accumulator to refill, especially when cold and the fluid thickens, and supply proper pressures for shifting. Once and done and then smooth shifting the rest of the day. An occasional slam.....can't damage anything........we're too spoiled, old 60-70s era 2 speed Powerglides did it on every 1-2 shift

My .02 guess is good gasket, bad bolts..... or new bolts and tightening technique. Nothing wrong with the engines or components.....it's the technology and having proper replacement parts and trained and equipped personnel. These aluminum engines require special alloy head bolts which "stretch" when torqued to provide a spring action during expansion and contraction to properly seal oil pressure within the galleries for operation of the hydraulics, including the lifters. The tightening order, and a mandatory tightening sequence of torque plus additional angle is required.........original bolts must be thrown out and new ones installed each time a head is removed....try to kludge it and use the "stretched" ones and you are looking at an eventual leak

The button should simultaneously silence any program the radio is playing waiting for the voice command to activate the phone and make a call using a number or voice tag. Once bluetooth has been set up and the phone added to the radio head software. .....If it doesn't silence the radio the system is not operating properly. Dash lighting operation is overridden or modified by the Sun sensor on the dash and only at full brightness during the day and if "Day" instead of "Night" or "Auto" in Settings.....otherwise dimmer will only work once headlamps are activated (at night) and the green headlight icon is lit in the cluster.

The first overnight cold engagement is usually just on the first one or two 1-2 upshifts of the day. Sounds more like a delayed engagement than slippage......slippage will cause an engine flare/and/or stuttering before engagement. Food for thought - I'm guessing an 8 speed with start-stop. Happen after an auto stop event? The '19s differ from the previous 8 speeds in that they have an "accumulator" a cylinder that stores hydraulic pressure when the engine and hydraulic pump in the tranny are stopped. This pressure is needed to supply the servos to keep the bands against the drums of the gearsets, otherwise absent pressure the bands will release and reapply as soon as the engine and tranny pump resume operation and apply hydraulic pressure. If the accumulator fails to apply sufficient pressure during an auto stop cycle, the bands will slam against and engage the drum(s) as soon as the engine revs and powers the tranny pump.....higher the rev, the harder the slam. Dealer will probably do a fluid change (if date on the door sticker is earlier than 3/19 when they switched to factory Mobil1 tranny fluid), and/or otherwise reprogram the tranny computer. Bear in mind this can also occur in a normal tranny with multiple drivers with drastically different driving habits, i.e. slow vs. jackrabbit takeoffs, because one of the attributes of the self learning tranny is it modifies the fill rates of the hydraulic servos which will affect the speed of band engagement. I've read that the 20+ trannys dumped the accumulator in favor of an electric hydraulic pump in the tranny which operated independently of the engine to keep pressure during an auto stop cycle. Let's see what the dealer says.

Video capabilities went out with the CD slot. That's probably why no more overhead video screens, and now separate monitors built into headrests. Before upgrading to the Nav I put some music albums on a SD and they played just fine. Nav card does not contain pictures or videos in any of the standard formats.......only readable by the ('19) IOT radio or the IOS radio head after the BIOS has been upgraded by software installed by GM to provide Nav operating capability.

Mine does the same

No available AM tube radios, cassettes or 8 tracks either.

All depends upon your individual driving needs. Had the Z package in my '13 Avalanche and '16 Silverado. Most of my driving is concrete and asphalt with an occasional country back road in crush&run, or dirt, even grass when road disappears. Personal preference this a time was a smoother, quieter ride with better cornering and handling. Never had need for the two speed transfer case and never took a hit on the plastic skid plate and tired of the Z package's knobby, noisy 17"s and 18"s that perform poorly in turns on slick roads - so went for less aggressive treads on low profile 22's in an RST with a single speed transfer case which comes stock with an Off Road button in place of 4Lo that electronically simulates the 4Lo speed gearing, but with less torque. And as far as a dual exhaust - the Z doesn't have one, at least not a real one like my Camaros with two mufflers and engine pipe each fed by a separate engine manifold; it has two finishers with a "Y" pipe fed by a single exhaust pipe system - looks pretty but doesn't do a damn for lowering backflow or increasing performance - exact engine H.P. specs -and didn't want to take a chance with exhaust crap messing up the finish on the painted rear bumper. If a time calls for crawling through mud, or bashing through undeveloped areas of heavy brush with hidden rocks - I'll rent a Jeep and kick the crap out of it and keep the scratches off and the shine on the Silverado's Jello hard clear coat finish.

I see that now, but the wider DRL/directionals have a clear lens instead the stock smoked ones on the RST you would expect those lenses to be smoked like the headlights.

There's no doofference at all in the headlights from the stock RST. The blackout in the above photo is the normal surround of a black "wings" of a black grille and black body. Compare against the red surround in my photo. The LED lenses (and some internal walls) and DRLs are normally smoked. As for blackout of the balance of the front, all a black grille will do is make the chrome surround of the bowtie and clear lenses of any optional fog lamps stick out like a sore thumb. To "dechrome" properly in addition to the black badging and stick blackout surround window trim of the RST, I had to pi$$ away another $200 to buy a lighted black bowtie which has a matching normally smoked surround (when not lighted) and another $10 for a partially smoked plexiglasscover for the fog lamps.

Leather option in RST includes only the non perforated heated 10 way seats. Ventilated seats available only in the top line models......a gimmick, no cooling it just blows air from under the seat.......came standard in my Traverse and don't even have the power to flutter a tissue placed on the seat or blow back a fart.

No salvage title if it is a buy back. Most buy backs in actuality are trade-ins against the sale of a new vehicle with GM taking up the slack of the loss, likely in the form of future dealer discounts on new vehicles. Dealer donates the buy back to a charity and gets a chit for deducting the book value of it on the firm's yearly Income tax form. You really don't think the donated autos raffled off by charities are brand new cars, rather shiny new low mileage "demos used by H.S. driver's ed or some other ****** and bull story " most are in probability buy back dogs. Charities that solicit for donated cars not fit for raffles can just flip the older banged up ones with severe repair problems to an automotive wholesaler and they end up bought at auction for purchase and repair by corner used car dealers. More than likely the Church/charity will raffle off the clean, new model buy backs at a charity event or religious fair selling tax chances for a few bucks a pop with sum total of receipts netting more than the value of the vehicle. So after a few months with great fanfare someone eventually wins the vehicle for a few bucks in chances purchased. Gets the vehicle and pays the taxes on the book value of the prize back to the Government. Everybodys happy, even the owner of the jingle jangle vehicle won for cost of taxes and raffle tickets.