Thomcat

Can't possibly work for the came reason a lightning strike can't kill you if inside the car if you are not touching metal.......tires make it a poor conductor, essentially a rolling Faraday cage. There will always be a market for these type of gizmos. As W.C. Fields aptly put it: " There's a sucker born every minute......and two to take him" If you can get it for free, it will be worth every penny spoent.

Wait for it to settle? Why? All new vehicles are aligned by the manufacturer before they move two feet. The more important point to check first is centralization - Use a parking lot, set the steering wheel position so the car is going exactly straight ahead on flat portion. Stop and then rotate the steering wheel full left and then full right and note exactly how many revolutions it can make in each direction......they should be identical regardless of the initial position of the steering wheel spokes and require tie rod adjustments in addition of any steering wheel or tire positioning

0W is only for necessary for easy cold startup to assure that oil is instantly available at all tight tolerances and reduce load on the starter motor train. Additives and viscosity modifiers likely raise the spec of 0W to at least 5W within minutes and/or before the first 1000' of travel and at 20 before the engine hits operating temp. And the only difference between the collapsible lifters in the older design AFM engine vs. a DFM engines which is the number in use; former uses them on 4 cylinders, latter uses them on 8.

.02 The viscosity is printed in the manual and on the cap and differs from engine to engine for a reason. Considering that the thermostat and oil coolers/high volume finned oil pans keeps the engine temp at max temperature for most efficient and clean operation, if designed for 20 weight when warmed up, should be operating independent of external environmental temperatures. Oil volumes in the 5.3l were upped from 6 qt. to 8 qt in more recent models - expanded to provide a suitable for heat transfer?.....done to prolong time between changes? No need to change viscosities, 0W-20 should work just fine. Can't go lower than 0W anyway even in the unlikely instance where the temperature is so cold that it sucks out so much heat you can't reach operating temperature. And if the temperature is so hot that the cooling system cannot lower temperature to design specs a weight higher than design spec 20 oil would not be of much use when metal expansion begins to lock up moving parts, thicker oil may even reduce lubrication being unable to accurately lubricate tight tolerances. When it comes to environmental temperatures I'd be more concerned about the effects of too low or too high temps on all the crapo plastic parts more than the weight of oil in the engine and drivetrain. Had a cold snap below 40F the other day when I wanted to install the lighted bowtie and had to pull the plastic grille, including those slim wings under the headlights. No way I was going to yank to release clips at that temperature or the crap snaps or even the wings might crack........waited until it hit 60F and grille unsnapped and none of the clips were damaged. Same goes for the plastic surround frame in my Avalanche's rear window glass.....no problems at lower temps but too much heat leaving the grid on to defog in warmer weather generated enough heat to cracked the first two frames replaced under warranty. (Latter might even be the cause of window frame cracking causing leaks in '19-'20s?)

It does.....134 pages so far WANT INFO ON REAR WINDOW LEAK?......USE THIS POST:

Seems quite a few posters disagree with you based on the number of likes in my header. A word to the wise is sufficient, but not everyone has the stock equipment to listen!

I see the error of my ways......You should definitely go for it, and $50/month is really not so great as to be a financial burden considering the alternative.

Spent 37 years of working up to 2 jobs, 6 days a week gathering/investing my acorns and was more than happy to turn over the job to some go-getter one second after I qualified for Social Security so he could contribute to my retirement benefits. For the past dozen years I've been quite content to stay home with my thumb up my a$$, collecting pension checks, annuities and Social Security benefits. The Government printing presses are overheating......hope everyone goes back to work ASAP so I won't need a wheelbarrow full of Benjamins to buy a loaf of bread.

Plenty available for sale on Amazon.com. Probably works as well as the ultrasonic repellers to keep rats from chewing the wiring and the magnets you put on the gas line to get better gas mileage. Instead of using the keyboard to pose a question, try surfing the Internet. They do work on boats which use the water to close the circuit, might work if you plan to launch your truck along with the boat. http://www.bellevillerustcheck.com/electronic-rust-proofing-does-it-work/ https://ecclesautoservice.ca/do-electronic-rust-protectors-work/

Here's another .02.........Seems there may be actually two separate noises in the roof area.. The spoiler noise responds to heat and with the Summer heat it will occur more frequently, evidently it is the ABS (or other plastic) spoiler expanding at a different rate than the aluminum in the cab roof. Sound is more like a loud snap than a pop. The roof noise is more intense and it is more of a loud pop or metal flexing. A light pressure on the middle of the roof will generate this noise irregarless of temperature......and the pressurize air from a car wash will cause the surface to ripple and flex. A sunroof will certainly requires a more reinforced roof, more rigid glass and less flex metal surface so it should flex less, but wouldn't reduce a spoiler noise. The scary part of the roof noise is the aluminum construction of the cab. Even assuming the same gauge thickness, aluminum is not as strong or as ductile as steel, the latter property making it more prone to fatigue. Pop it often enough and not only may it just lose strength and the noise occur more often, but fatigued portions at the edges of the deformation may eventually delaminate the paint and clear coat. Doesn't appear to be anything that can be done about the thin aluminum roof other than keeping it out of overhead pressure car washes that can flex the metal. Spoiler can likely be corrected by torquing down on the retainers under the headliner, but no way I'm doing that or taking to a dealer for fear of compromising the spoiler seal and causing a leak at the rear window (which has been leak free) or headliner. With all these thin aluminum horizontal surfaces......just glad that cows can't fly.

Post 1/2011 AFMs are equipped with modifications to valve cover/PCV, LOMA manifold, redesigned AFM collapsible lifters and AFM discharge valve in the sump to correct earlier problems related to oil burning and lifter failure. I had the Range disabler which I used on my '13 Avalanche and later updated to use on my '16 Silverado ......which I used infrequently, primarily for long trips. .02 As far as the AFM lifters go.....can't see how the Range device would have anything to do with prolonging their life. They will still expand and collapse every time the engine is started and stopped anyway. From what I've read they usually fail in the expanded state when they jamb against the limiter pin likely related to a clogged screen in the LOMA manifold or jamming within the hydraulic cylinder of the tappet which is more a function of poor oil quality than lifter design. I'd be more concerned running the Range device all the time because the AFM lifters would operate for a greater dwell time in the expanded state which is the state in which they fail. Gave my 5.3l AFMs a good workout and never had a problem.

The roof is made of aluminum only slightly thicker than that of a soda can.......hood is no bargain either. Have to be careful waxing the roof because it flexes under very little pressure....under a lot of pressure the metal may crease and not pop back and time for a suction cup. Hood is a slightly thicker gauge but can be dented with too much pressure. And there is no consistency among car wash equipment may be 200 mph, may be 300 mph and angle of the jet of compressed air to act as a squeegee, whether straight down or angled toward the rear, on some depends upon rollers used to maintain distance above roof....if not counter balanced properly they can dent the roof or if not properly maintained put a racing stripe scratch in the clear coat. Getting my free car washes today, storm should hit around 2:00, give it ten minutes, on goes the slicker and soap them down. Rain water rinse here is clean and doesn't spot ....even better than using the pool/hoptr tub water treatment cartridge hooked up to the hose.

If you want flush a roof mount is not for you....if you use a sports bar the lights must be additionally elevated a few inches to project properly over the domed roof. If you want to go the grille option....only one way to do it right is with a replacment grill with built-in lighting ....example::

To replace grill, first make sure retainers in wings are properly seated in the grill and not damaged. First you tilt the bottom of grille and locate three bottom clips at the holes/slots, then lift the top of the grille with the four bolt holes up and over the lip of the steel bulkhead and push top and bottom in together....the spring clips on the two ends should be in proper position and push to seat......the wings must clip in last after the side clips are seated with a push on the inner clips first and then the outer. If you do not pre-seat the clips partially in the bottom holes first then tilt the top vertical and lift the top over the lip the end clips double each side, will not be in the seating position and replacement will be difficult or not possible..

Well how about Chevy's opinion? They're not exactly crowing about stuffing a 4 cyl in their full sized trucks. See for yourself in their promo literature and current catalog: https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/chevrolet/na/us/english/index/shopping-tools/download-catalog/02-pdf/2020-silverado-1500-catalog.pdf Nowhere do they mention that their base engine is a four. They hawk that their 4.3l is a V6, the 3.0l is an I6, the 5.3 is a V8 and the 6.2 is a V8.........they only refer to the 2.7l turbo and not a 2.7l I4 turbo. Nowhere! Not arguing performance, a hamster on crack can pull almost as much as a rat, just that I agree, Chevy is likely trying to take advantage of a piece of the market not yet secured, bottom feeders and sucker novice truck buyers who want to buy on the cheap......otherwise why not mention in any of their literature that it is a 4 cylinder which sometimes works as a two. Chevy certainly doesn't have that problem with their Camaros, ditto for the Malibus and Equinox whose literature freely mentions 2.0L Turbo 4-cylinder engine so apparently they have no problem crowing that they are stuffing a 4 in a car, but forbidden to mention they are selling full sized trucks with a 4cyl. They don't even stuff a 4 in a full sized Traverse....tried it with a 2.0l turbo in one RS which they did advertise as a 4 cyl and buyers stayed away choosing upper and lower lines with the V6. The secondary market not technology will drive the market....true value will be determined as a 3 year trade-in.

Used this as guidance for the install, appears to be the best one on Youtube. Basically follows the manufacturers instructions but a lot more info in the video most importantly forget the ones where it says to just yank without first releasing the two tabs on each of the four "wings" above and below the headlights.....try that in cold weather and you'll likely break the wing clips or crack one of the wings. And the only way top do it right is to remove the grille.....the quick and dirty method of just releasing the top clips and tilting inward forces you to run the cabeling over ther shutter assembly and leaving the tail connected to the LED bowtie traveling vertically upward to the top of the shutter assembly where it will flap around at 60-80 mph and and maybe booger the wiring or pins in the connector. Removal of the grill permits attaching the cabling inside the crossbar to the grill itself shielding it from the air traveling through the grille and positioning it at the convenient rubber gasket behind the upper headlight assembly instead of of a hole in the body behind the shutter assembly. Took almost 2 hours, instead of twenty minutes for the quick and dirty method, worth the time to mask off paint (necessary on the RST crossbars) and lens assemblies to prevent scratching. Result came out perfect.....finally got rid of that last pioce of chrome......finish on the lighted bowtie blends in with the factor smoked headlights,DRL and light smoke plexi placed over the fogs.

Just as I feared....inflation has already set in......even the cost of comments has gone up.......so here's my .20: You're all wrong.......Nobody paid for it and that is the real problem, because eventually we will all pay for it including our children, grand children and great grand children, provided the Chinese and other debtors don't buy the place on foreclosure first. Pi$$ it away on a toy, use it to support your family, buy extra food and donate to your Church's food bank, buy a gold coin or invest in a Henry lever action "non-assault rifle" which you'll need after they come for your ARs or dry up the ammo that feeds them, but whatever you do don't stick it in a bank. That 2.7% on CDs last year or 2% this year ain't gonna last and money saved ain't gonna be worth anything once inflation hits....forget carrying a wallet, you'll soon need a wheelbarrow to carry the cash needed for a loaf of bread. Happens every time a nation prints paper money backed by nothing. Soon as LBJ pulled all the silver from US coins allegedly to fund the Vietnam war debt, the French immediately started sucking up our gold at $35/oz while the Gov't reinforced banning U.S. private gold ownership except for jewelry and medical needs.....soon no more $2,495 MSRP Cheyennes or $2,968 MSRP Impalas. I foresee another move coming.......deja vu the Russians telling us where to stick their debt to the U.S. under Lend-Lease as compensation for the heavy losses and destruction to cities they sustained in WWII waiting for the Allies to open up a second front.....we never did see those bucks returned. Now it is simply a matter of balancing our debt owed to China against the losses suffered by their launching of the Wuhan virus......and our rebuilding our military and resupply of weaponry including nukes may turn out to be our best investment yet.....

OP is talking a single unit not fleet buys, especially with Fords. Fleet buys are a different animal.....sold on the cheap and they stick in any remaining parts that fit. In 1972 agency ordered thousands of Ford Customs at a time of increasing emission standards and new restrictive fleet mileage requirements...of course rules didn't apply to Government contracts and Ford needed the sixes for their price leader Mustangs and recently introduced Mavericks and Pintos and no large V8s were offered in their line that year ....so what to do with all the leftover large, dirty 4 bbl. 400s and 428s that wouldn't meet emissions? Simple, jamb them into fleet cars which had no radios, mismatched parts and interiors, steel wheels some with covers, others hubcaps but all did get dynamite engines. Got 4-5 mpg at a time of gas crisis and long NYC gas lines. But, no problemo for designated emergency vehicles with their non public fleet pumps and gas supplies.

C'mon! Whos's kidding who here? Check to see if the embedded numbers in the doors all match! Check out the videos on Youtube showing the Silverado assembly plants and the way they are staged, assembled and painted. There is no way in He!! that happened at the factory. Switcho-chango happened somewhere along the line of possession after it left the factory. Reminds me of the time my friend swapped front doors with a rental, but he was smart enough to swap the interiors back. Check out the door assembly sequence in attached. Same goes for swaps on new car purchases at a dealer with any brains (will work only before you fork over the cash!) if defect is a deal breaker like the hood swap on my sister's new Celica (days before the embedded code on major parts) after I noticed evidence of bodywork, and for the rear leather seat swap on my Impala when I noticed the center armrest was broken and said swap or no deal.

Choose "Don't remind".

Definitely turn on the afterblow. Dealer had set mine for afterblow during the initial prep so no crap even has a chance to grow from moisture and build up on the evaporator.......no smells from A/C.

Just ordered one, I'm glad it is not a bright chrome surround which stands out like a sore thumb against the other front lighting....would have bought one sooner even without the light if I knew it showed as a dull white/grey......that bowtie surround was the last piece of chrome left to strip from the RST.

Auto lock has to be applied in vehicle settings, the default is off. Install some LEDs? Substitution of LEDs with improper resistance values for the stock halogens in the reverse lamps and directional/parking lamps can cause the perimeter lighting system controls and related systems to fail to sleep and even though lights are off the circuitry will continue to drain the battery.

Just ordered one for my '19 RST copy of GM installation instructions attached. The 2020 version might appears to have a later part # but appears to be the same, wire routing appears different along a fixed spine so as not to interfere with function of the aero shutters. In particular calls for tape masking of the light and bumper areas and use of a plastic trim tool to release the ends of the grille to reduce chance of resuable clip breakage......masking would be important on an RST because of the body color painted grille and bumper. 1500 19+ ill Bowtie.pdf

The SD card by itself is useless, except maybe for updating maps on existing systems........all it contains is maps. For the $450 or so MSRP it inclused an activation code number that is used by GM to reprogram the IOS radio to IOT Nav capabilities and to reprogram the DIC module and 4" speedometer DIC to interface with the 8" screen and transfer data and duplicate maps and abbreviated directions from the main screen to the 4" screen directly in the driver's view. Programming takes about 1/2 hour and once the map has been mated to the VIN number it cannot be used in another vehicle. The dealer won't and can't call GM to install the reprogramming software (not available separately) the radio and speedometer modules without the specific ID number for the upgrade which is what you are paying for when buying the upgrade kit. This does not appear to be anything that can be programmed by other than GM.... apparently it also it makes changes to the IOS radio BIOS becuase the radio boot up and requirement for profile data and map boot screens are changed from the boot-up without the Nav.