Thomcat

The 2019 Silverado/Sierra (the real 2019s not the 2018 carryover LD version) does not use a hydroboost system.....just lift the hood and look.......no more power brake booster or vacuum lines........and no more power steering pump. This is a new ZF fly by wire IBC setup. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2018/10/zf-highlights-brake-by-wire-system-in-silverado-sierra/ As described in the above your foot pedal does not apply pressure to the hydraulic system....a motor screw ball applies pressure depending upon position of the pedal. I have no idea what a pedal to the floor means in an IBC system, but mine has never done it. First thing I would check would be stored codes in the ECU/BCU and if none I'd still get to the dealer ASAP for an explanation. Same goes for relying on the lightweight save the planet "emergency" brake button for a stop in case of main brake failure.....that damn thing is also controlled by a motor and no longer with decent brake shoes on a steel drum/disc assembly......the shoes are now thin and designed for parking brake purpose only and the drum portion of the rear drum/rotor assembly is aluminum.

Sometimes deals are tied to specific trucks. GM sets specific targets for monthly sales by model, hence the hidden "holdback" cash for each truck will revert to the dealer for each sale in excess of the target. That's why better prices can be had toward the end of the month when a dealer knows that he will hit his sales target for the month. But there is another bonus to large volume dealers offered in additional money that can be applied to one or two specific vehicles identified by the dealer for the following month, usually their slow movers....and once applied to a specific VIN cannot be moved or applied to another vehicle. Dealers sometimes offer them as new car specials, but usually won't identify them for obvious reasons, but sometimes you can spot them because they are overloaded with accessories for the particular model, have been sitting for a few months accumulation interest on dealer loans and low if any mileage from test rides because they have a high MSRP for the model. Hence, my $56.5K RST with 4 miles went for $42K flat, rollout including the State tax differential, while a similarly equipped one without the 22"s was selling for the same amount.

They are solid and the treadle is flat and horizontal foot a good foot grab.....no way I'd get them as an aftermarket add on for $950.....came with the $2500 appearance package with sports bar and tonneau.....and no way I'd pay that much for that either. A $42K RST listing for $56K+ with accessories and all I paid was $42K which is the cheapest way to get high markup expensive accessories and not aftermarket.

Won't steam cleaning with one of the handheld attachments remove the staining? I'd sooner try DIY before letting them try to replace a headliner.

I have the water softener connected to internal spigots including one in my garage which I intended for use washing cars because the untreated external spigot contain dissolved minerals which will spot paint and glass. And both, even the softened water, will leave dried spots although the softened water leaves less. Found the solution using the water treatment cartridge from a pool supplier that fits on the end of the hose designed to be used to treat water used to top off or refill my outdoor hot tub. Good for 10 refills of the hot tub or who knows how many car washes. An even better cheap and easy is to put on a slicker and soap it down during a thunderstorm.......no spotting after drying when the rain stops. But, of course you're dependent and at the mercy upon the weather.

Nothing wrong with the OEM over the throw ons, excellent for preventing rocker chips, nice flat foo step and drain......even have a built in logo

Nothing more than a composite design to reinforce a thin aluminum hood. Wouldn't make much of deflecting a cold airflow supply as an aluminum heat sink sucking up heat from the engine and hot Summer Sun.

Not Virto.....and a Lansing, US build "1" VIN Just got hit with the storm moving up the East coast, lost two shutters but the Silverado is dry inside. Rear window= FUYAO E001488 43R0115130

.02 Weather or not a design defect is debatable....it is designed for it's primary function to get someone's a$$ from point A to B and withstand normally expected useage and cleaning methods and it may well work for the 99-8/10ths percent that have been sold and don't leak. Perhaps a cheap, stupid design with a separate spoiler assembly is responsible, but no designer can account for every variable not under control or reproducable like someone running a carwash that decided to up the average blower output of 200 mph or get more restrictive nozzles upping the output to 300-400 mph to speed up the conveyor or reduce number of wiping staff, double the amount of HF acid in the wash for a faster scrub, etc. Same goes for excessive heat cycling of the rear defroster grid operation like I did on my Avalanche. Could be saving the planet with some new biodegradable sealant that is only susceptible to certain chemicals in commercial or OTC washes........and I doubt that they vigorously test for each possible formulation and pressure test that thin POS spoiler seal well in excess of max. hurricane and tornado wind speed/pressures. It can be done but you don't get Rolls/Ferrari class designing for bottom feeder GM pricing. Same goes for dealer screw-ups in repair work, Mr. Goodwrench ain't working in many dealerships...my dealership has 20+ bays and doesn't just schedule for the first opening, but when there are sufficient particular personnel trained in that area of service, e.g. no problem with a same day State inspection, but had to wait a week for an opening with the correct number of personnel skilled in sunroof replacement.....and they never pulled the windshield to replace a headliner and new sunroof assembly....especially not smart today on vehicles with built-in front cameras. The auto defroster is a different matter.....and I bring that up because I cracked two plastic frames on my '12 Avalanche rear window without realizing the cause....they never leaked because the removable window was fitted with a flexible gasket, but the expansion separated the electrical contact... Mechanic put me wise claiming I was over cycling the built-in 5 minute auto timer by pushing the manual button repeatedly to clear moisture from the rear window (especially on a hot Sunny day) because the front windshield, front door seals, windshield wiper entry points, clogged A/C drain and sunroof seal leaked like crazy & constantly saturated the carpets and the interior of the windows always had moisture on them and constantly had to use the grid in warm weather. Seems too much heat and the glass expands cracking the plastic frame at the weak points.......and the rear window was the one point that never leaked because it was a removable glass with a flex seal on the body (not so the '19) and not sealed with the same (variable locally sourced?) Mexican snot used at the Silao plant for all the other seals. Third window was the charm becuase i stayed off the heating grid, but did trade the leaking SOB for a '13 whose frame never cracked because I limited use of the grid. On the '19s with autodefog on remote start you really have no idea when or how long that grid stays on and weather it overheats to cause a frame or seal failure. Bottom line is $hit happens and they don't come out of the factory that way....something is causing leaks on some and not others.

Nothing published but disregarding actual multiple posts and exaggerating that each one is a unique complaint at about 15/page on each of 130 pages amounts to about 2000 complaints..seems most of US and Canadian owners with leaker complaints do find there way here...and further exaggerating that there are ten unknown complaints for each posted entry gives you a total 20,000 leakers.......compared against a total combined US and Canadian production of Silverados and Sierras of 915,707 units for 2019........gives a defect rate of 2/100s of 1 % not really statistically significant unless you happen to have one. Wouldn't base my selection of a GM truck on anything read in this post. An engineering defect would affect all units; they don't come out of the box as leakers.....something done aftermarket causes it...otherwise they would all leak, and they do not. e.g. Take it to the dealer for a popping noise on the spoiler and they screw with it removing spoiler tightening fasteners, and all of a sudden you have a leak. Have the auto defrost turned on for the rear window grid on a hot day, no thermostat only a timer expand the glass and crack the plastic frame or compromise the sealant. Take it to a carwash and blast with 300 mph air and compromise the sealant on the window or fastener gaskets on the spoiler leaking onto the headliner Take to carwash on a freezing day to get off the salt and water trapped between window and spoiler freezes and cracks the frame at a weak point., etc No automated carwash for me and turned off that auto defog on rear window and after one year of outside storage and numerous thunderstorm it's still dry as a bone.....tired of even checking after each downpour.........and no dealer is going to screw with it either.

Purposely bought double cabs because sports bars look best on a double cab with standard bed........worst choice appearance wise would be a crew cab with short bed. Only me and the wife and with a Traverse that has more room than a Tahoe, who needs a crew cab and the lower cost covers the appearance package+.

Had both, the '19 DC has 2" - 3" more total legroom.....some is due to the larger cab - some due to a more vertical seat back which adds room but a slightly longer cushion (the same aftermarket under seat bin from the '16 was installed in the '19 and cushion extends about an 1" further out. Length of full floor console with integral HVAC vents reduces middle rear seat legroom. Bought the DC because it is only me and the wife and the lines flow better and has sleeker lines when equipped with the sports bar. DC serves as a bonus........I have been known to purposely jamb relatives whom I find annoying in the rear instead of the roomier Malibu or Traverse

Here's my .02....which I have done in the past when vehicles were damaged........works easy when vehicle was an owned cash buy; no sure if not paid off.....take it for what it is worth. Wrecked vehicle at dealer's body shop. Walk into showroom and talk to manager, not salesman, and explain that you have a vehicle awaiting repair in his dealership shop and want to trade against a new vehicle in inventory. You want KBB trade in excellent condition (which it will be in after repair), and offer the insurance check for his body shop's estimate and the balance in cash or refinance for the new vehicle. If accident was deemed other driver's fault you'll get a check later for the deductible to which the dealer is not privy. Dealer will be happy because the price of the check exceeds his repair costs and he gets not only another new car sale out of it, but his used car lot gets a "creampuff" trade with extremely low mileage that will sell for same price as a "demonstrator".......... along with a story that owner traded in because he lost his job, it was too difficult entry for his disabled wife or some other kock and bull story. Might have to eat a few bucks, but better than getting Humpty Dumpty back in a few months if you're lucky.......plus you have a new, undamaged vehicle that you can use immediately. Current vehicle, just sitting there with the hood way open is an invitation to act as a donor vehicle for back ordered parts to repair a "preferred" customer's vehicle (but of course that could never happen).

Check under the hood? My former truck was a '16 Silverado and when I installed the Sports Bar I had to connect the new CMHSL (3rd brake light) because it blocked the original CMHSL. I installed a piggyback fuse tap .....the CMHSL fuse not in the dash but in the engine compartment fuse block.

If you want to go LED check this out first, most LED retrofits will not work properly in a projector housing, will fit and light, just not project a proper pattern, especially with projector lenses with shutters to cut off the high beam. Halogens and HIDs are better designed for projector lenses because they provide a discrete point source filament/arc whereas LEDs do not.

As I read it you can dinghy tow a 4WD in neutral but can't dolly tow with either a two or four wheel drive with one axle on the ground. Could be because it has nothing to do with rotation of either the tranny or transfer case but the angle of towing. My .02 guess: The output bearings on the axles may depend upon splash lubrication from the oil in the sump....towing front axle up on 2WD or 4WD might oil starve the output bearing on the rear axle, maybe even the wheel bearings. Towing rear axle up on either 2WD or 4WD might screw up the rack and pinion or worse throw vehicle out of control on a turn......I'm assuming this gen. is fly by wire and there is no longer a solid connection between the steering wheel and the wheels on the front axle which is driven by an electric motor integrated into the computer controlled rack (so no more power steering pump either) and no longer way for the tow truck driver to strap the steering wheel or use a locking steering wheel to secure front wheels without possible damage.

Looks like chemical damage as an underlying cause of breakdown and degraded by abrasion. Just a guess.......Use automated or commercial DIY car wash bays? If so maybe concrete dust embedded in the sipes of the tire are reacting with the hydrofluoric acid used in industrial care wash soaps and degrading polymer additives in that particular brand model of tire.

Ten months and still looks like new with an excellent color match.

Round? Schmound! Just looks better with large wheels.

Let's see?????....you are offered a one year newer truck which equates to about $4K in KBB value for the price of a sunroof and none of your current problems.. I'd say Thank You, buy them a box of cookies and in the future take it somewhere else for service.......or you could just keep your messed up one for free. Real difficult decision.

Why would they have to remove the windshield to replace the headliner? That's like trying to pull a tooth by reaching through your rectum. On a Silverado/Sierra or like on my old Avalanches it is done by removing the rear window, not the windshield as has to done with a sedan. And evidently from the recurrent leak the rear window should have been removed for a proper repair and headliner installed through the rear access. And just a thought...a sunroof?.......if so may be a blocked drain tube in the "A" pillar which is where that leak would show up.........pop the threshold trim plate a windshield leak would show up as a soaked jute carpet backing and water in the wiring loom channel underneath.

.02 I'd check the existing driveshaft first for balance to see if that is the cause. Quick, dirty and cheap, but it works. Mark the circumference of the shaft with 4 chalk marks at 90 degrees apart. Then place a really large hose clamp around the shaft and a 1/2 - 1 oz weight underneath the clamp (duct tape over if worried the weight might dislodge). If shaft is OK it should run equally worse in all positions, but If the vibration increases or decreases at different points, the shaft is out of true or out of balance and replacement or balance expenditure is justified.

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I hand wash mine.....no way I'm having some quickie car wash blowing 300 mph air onto that foil thick aluminum roof and also compromise that wafer thin water seal on the spoiler. Push that roof panel in too far in and it may not pop out and paintless repair using a suction cup may leave a permanent crease.

Now that it's getting warmer it's time for more roof popping complaints. Got my first pop today parked in the Sun and another waxing the foil thick aluminum roof. But no way I'm taking to the dealer to screw around and compromise the seal of the rear spoiler for a noise fix....it pops but the rear sliding window doesn't leak and I'm keeping it that way. So, I'll live with it; doesn't affect mileage or driveability............and it's a truck anyway and not a luxury sedan. Not taking a chance letting the dealer screw around trying to take the pop out of my spoiler. Better the devil you know than the one that you don't.........Good news is we got rid of the pop; bad news is now the headliner is staining and the rear window leaks like a sieve.