Posts posted by Logan Lanfear
We tow a 7200 dry weight camper - 2011 Outback 312BH to Maine from Vermont twice a year. There are some pretty good grades on the way there but nothing compared to what you'll see in the rockies. Its only a 4 and a half hour trip but I am usually wiped and ready for a beer after it.
Its stressful, even with a weight distribution hitch and sway bar. The wind is going to push you around and you will be running 50-55 on any kind of long grade.
With a half ton, I would shoot for a total weight under 6500 lbs for your kind of trip.
The lighter you go the better, itll be easier on you and on the truck.
MPG was roughly 6 maybe 7. About a 250 mile trip and we would make it about 3/4 of the way before filling up.
On 5/10/2021 at 10:19 PM, Sheen said:
Oh and Logan, about the PSI. My door sticker calls for 60 Front, 70 Back. I've taken the front down to 54 and the back 52. Cold. The ride does seem a lot better. Could I actually go lower than that without a problem? Sidewall max is 80.
I run 40 in my E range tires. I am not sure what rating your tires have but I would assume its E or more. Google your specific tire and you might find a minimum rating but sidewall flex is probably the biggest thing. With 40 I dont have any 'squish' in the rear tires and just a tiny bit in the front.
It was a huge improvement on the ride to go from the 60 I was running down to 40. Felt like a different truck.
Just remember to air back up when you're towing or loaded heavy.
Something that might be worth mentioning too is the future resale of the truck. I'm guessing that you'll get a better ride if you run your tires at 40psi instead of 80.
But if you ever do go to sell the truck down the line the right thing to do would be to mention that is has the regular truck springs not the snow/camper ones. It might be worth keeping your stock ones. (I like keeping all of my stock parts if I chose to modify)
Im interested in the results as most of the 2500 trucks where I live come with the plow prep.
If you're currently pulling that camper with your Suburban then props to you. Definitely not something that I would be doing. A 2500 gas will do it but the diesel will preform better in the mountains and most likely get better fuel mileage.
Don't forget to factor in added fuel cost, maintenance cost and DEF.
In my opinion, I would just get the gas engine to avoid these. I dont mind being a bit slow up the hills.
22 minutes ago, Sqrls said:
It will do it. The dirt is NOT 1800 lbs. it will be wet and definitely weigh more. That said, a yard a of dirt is technically an exact measurement, but realistically, it’s 2 scoops from the loader. It will probably just barely fit with the cover. The truck will handle it, just drive carefully to your destination.2 minutes ago, the wanderer said:
Stupid question, but can you not do a half yard at a time?
Both completely depend on the size of the loader bucket and the operator. Our local guys here have a 1 yard bucket that they absolutely heap full. Customers happy cause they end up with a bit more than a yard.
Sounds to me like you might be leaning towards the 3.0 slightly. Price wise, I would say go for it. Considering you only really tow a couple times a year (any significant kind of trip) any power loss would not be very noticeable. Personally id recommend the 5.3 but you're against that so ill ignore it.
Go for the diesel and try something new. There's no reason not to at least test drive one. Ask the dealer if they have one you can take for 24 or 48 hours. Hook your boat to it and pull it around for giggles. It may at least give you some insight on the power levels and differences between the engines.
Change all the plugs, after 115k its probably time. Go with OEM or something quality. If you don't know how to read plugs then post a picture of all 8 on here and we can tell you how they look. While you're there, changing the wires isn't a bad idea either.
Its a good time for a tune up. If it doesn't fix the issue then you can look deeper into injectors or CPS. Its a good time to change the plugs anyway.
46 minutes ago, lebag335 said:
I love my small block! '20 AT4 with 8 speed and it's awesome!
Well I think technically they're all small blocks. But, correct me if I am wrong
As the title says, Im wondering what the smallest wheel size for my parents 2015 Yukon Denali. They currently have a set of 18" steelies that are rusting and the tires are spanked. Will 17" wheels fit? We would be looking for a set of GM wheels off of a truck or similar. Plenty of options in my area for 17's but very limited for 18's.
Does the truck do anything when you go to start it? Does the fuel pump kick on or do the lights flash or is it acting like its dead?
Typically the difference between the FGAWR and the existing weight on the front axle when you have a gas engine is bigger compared to a diesel. Basically you have less weight to start with so you have more room for the plow. If anything else it means less wear and tear on the front end components. I live In Vermont and everyone around here plows. The overwhelming majority plow with a gas truck. Lower initial cost, lower cost to operate and less room for potential problems. I dont think you'll have any issues with the 6.6 gas and it'll probably cost you less in the long run.
23 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:
I think "mostly city" numbers will always be worse the "longer trips mix highway/city" . It's just a thought.1 hour ago, Ralph Ciardullo said:
- Prior to installation I was getting 17.5 L per 100km using regular unleaded fuel 87% mostly city driving - 2012 GMC Sierra SLT 5.3L
- After install made some longer trips mix highway/city and got numbers around 13.4L per 100km and back to city driving for the last month with numbers holding steady at 14.3L per 100km.
"Back to city driving for the last month with numbers holding steady at 14.3L per 100km"
His city driving numbers were better than before...
Personally for me I would go for the 295 as it has the higher rating. (im guessing its also less expensive while also looking good still)
2 of the 35's gives you 6800 lbs of total tire capacity on your rear axle. With a 10,000 lb trailer, depending on how its loaded, should have between 1500 and 3000 lbs on the tongue.
2 of the 295's give you 7500 lbs of capacity on the tires.
Im guessing both of the numbers are above your RGVW anyway.
Its one of the harder DIY jobs but definitely doable as long as you take your time with the alignment parts. As long as you get it pretty close you should be able to safely drive to the alignment shop without wrecking your tires. Stuff gets dried out when it gets to be 20 years old but as long as you dont have too much rust you shouldn't have an issue.
If im not mistaken the Ram that you had came with an 8 speed right? The Hemi for that year also had 395 horsepower. Comparing that to the 2020 GMC 6.6 with only 401 horsepower. The drawback seems to be the 6 speed that your GMC. I would use manual mode on hills to keep the truck in the power band. Im assuming the truck felt much more planted with the 3/4 ton suspension. A larger camper could still be very much in your future. You're just working with a an equally powerful engine with a heavier truck.
Did you compare the two before replacing the control arm? Im not sure if its possible on these trucks but you might have installed the key clocked one slot away from where it should be.
Checked the harness, no problems there either. I'm not the first person to be in here searching for the problem. Honestly, i've been looking for a reason to upgrade and this might be it. Either that or im tapping into the taillight harness just to get me by.
Got it figured out, turned out to be a burnt wire in the trailer harness. Im guessing it was due to a bad ground. I cleaned the grounds and fixed the wires. Hopefully it doesnt repeat.
No visible problems with the harness or the plug. Also no power at the plug tested with multiple trailers as well as a multimeter. Also update: I have no brake lights at all just right side blinker and running light.
My 2000 GMC Sierra has had an issue since I purchased it. While towing, the left side trailer light does not work. I had previously chocked this up to a trailer with a bad light but I recently replaced the lights on a new to me utility trailer. This "new" trailer had the same issue with no left side marker light, brake light or blinker. I have checked the fuses as well as changing the bulbs around on the trailer. I have confirmed with another vehicle that the lights work correctly on the trailer. Yet when I plug my truck in, I only have the right side lights. The right side is bright and working well. My truck has the factory tow package with the 7 pin round style plug. I have taken the plug apart and found no corrosion. Im not sure if a wire got crossed somewhere or if there is a light issue on the truck. Any help or spots to check would be appreciated. I will double check my fuses and make sure that they are all functional.
Did you end up weighing it yet? I'm just curious what you've got for numbers.
You would probably have to find a dealer that would be willing to work through the problem with you. They will probably charge a pretty penny for it but they might be able to say that they changed the suspension components and that upgraded the capabilities. Whether they change the current sticker or add another sticker which ive seen done in the past. Im guessing finding a dealer that would even want to try to work with this problem would be hard to do.
IMO: Get some bags and a nice weight distribution hitch. No one is going to be in a rush to weight your truck and its individual axles for any legal reasons.
Hey guys, I figured id start a build thread for this truck. I always seem to take a ton of pictures of my trucks but I have yet to put them all together for a thread. Im going to try to keep track of it all here as I get work done to my new to me truck.
I picked up this 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 with the 5.3 a couple weeks back and got a good deal on it. The seller was going through a divorce and needed to get rid of it and I was able to jump on it. There are some things wrong with it for sure and it needs some small things. It was the dirtiest truck I have ever seen so strangely enough I actually detailed the interior before really doing anything else. Shampooed everything and dismantled most of the interior to get all the nooks and crannys. Ive decided the seats arnt worth saving, they have multiple burn holes and the foam is starting to lose its support. The rear shocks have no bushing on the rear axle so they clunk around and make a racket going down the road. The parking brake wasn't hooked back up after the rear axle was swapped. I replaced the windshield myself which was the biggest pain in the a**. Other than that, its going to need tires soon. It also has what I think is probably a set of lift keys from rough country. I have to check the rear to see if it has blocks in it or not. Sorry for the long winded message, quarantine has me pretty bored. Pics of how it sits now plus the codes for anyone curious.
Itll need tires soon so does anyone know of some cheap 33's? O
Does anyone know if the front seats from a Tahoe will fit a regular cab?
7 minutes ago, Mike GMC said:
Mine has rear discs as well. I think all the 2000's had rear disc brakes. Oddly, mine seems to go through rear brakes faster than front. I just replaced the rears again a few weeks ago. I seem to get about 80k out of the rears. The fronts went well over 100k.
Yeah the fronts on this one look worn but still have a lot of life in them. It wouldn't surprise me if they were original but the rears are spanked for sure.
2 hours ago, Donstar said:
Nice truck! My 2000 Silverado (4.8) was a trouble free truck for the first 100k miles. Battery and brakes were my only costs beyond regular maintenance for my nine years of ownership. I spoke to the subsequent owner five years later and a new starter was his only repair. Enjoy!
This one needs rear brakes and rotors. Im surprised to see that they have discs. I know the axle was swapped from another GM truck or SUV. The parking brake wasnt hooked back up so ill have to try and figure out if itll work with this axle.
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2016 Silverado 5.3 normal operating trans temp?
in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshooting
Seems pretty high to me