Logan Lanfear

Your pressures might be off internally. Is there any warranty or way to check your valve body pressures?

Open. Locked was only offered on rear axle.

Check for spark on all your cylinders.

Is it actually misfiring? or maybe just a mess up in the computer?

I've had a similar issue with the truck at work. One second it will be fine and another you'll have to crank on the wheel with 2 hands to get where you need to go. A lot of work has been done and sadly it hasnt been fixed.

Could have lowered the truck enough to need it shortened, thatd be my guess.

4L60e. I cant remember the specifics on this generation but I would say with a pan drop at least 5 quarts. Mine, a 1998, took a little over 5 to do a drop.

Both are actually some handy uses. I've been struggling to figure out why they would add them. Most chargers are just USB and can plug into any cig lighter. You never really know when you're going to need it guess. Just handy to have it.

Ehh, not the biggest fan of mudflaps that have decals on them or any of that stuff. Do you have a link?

I cut a 18 wheeler mud flap in half and self tapped it right into my fender well. Best $50 I ever spent for 4 mudflaps that are actual mud flaps. No more salt hitting my rockers.

Personally id do everything myself but the brake fluid. Change that whenever it needs brakes. Makes it an easier job. Rear diff is crazy easy. Front is a bit harder but still very simple. Its been said that its probably less than $75 worth of fluid. I've heard that dropping the pan to change the filter on these transmissions is pretty difficult. I wonder if they plan to flush it and leave it with the original filter? Either way, sounds exorbant and unnecisary. I would stop taking my truck there as soon as the oil changes stopped being free. Dealers always charge big for labor. There isnt a reason to use them for anything but warranty work or special situations that require their tools.

It looks like it has absolute baby tires on it. I wonder what size they are?

If it doesnt crank at all I would start with the starter....

If its aftermarket I wouldnt trust it at all. I would work on getting rid of as much that you can. Ditch it and replace the ECU with a junkyard one or whatever you prefer. Then try it.

They do have issues with the ECUs. If you jumped the solenoid then it would still crank even if it was bad. Sadly a new ECU is at least a couple hundred bucks. Not bad but not a fun fix either. Not connecting is another sign. I have never had to deal with the alarm system malfunctioning but I have heard that it is an issue. I also dont know how you would go about fixing that. When you put your key in the ignition does the security light do anything special?

Personally a lift is on my list of wants. Its a pleasant thing that these engines are pretty simple to swap. Unplug, unbolt lift it up and out. If you tune out the AFM and keep up with the maintenance it should last much more than 100k.

Thats the issue I have had as well. I a 275 gallon tote full of sap in the back of my 2008 Sierra 1500. Im pretty sure it had the 4 plus 1 leaf pack. It had plenty of power to get going but stopping was interesting. Especially with a liquid sloshing around. Probably around 2300 lbs. The truck was sitting very close to the bump stops. Probably <1 inch.

Yeah, plenty of people have issues with there AFM. Sadly, they can be a time bomb in many cases. However, thats not always the case. Im assuming the dealer should fix everything under warranty correct? Personally I miss the days of non AFM engines. Im currently in the market for another truck and thats the main reason im sticking to pre 2007.

Well if you have good fuel it must be a spark issue or fuel delivery issue. How many miles are on the truck? I had a similar issue when my fuel pump was putting out too much pressure. Once it does start, does it sputter or does it light right off?

Capitalism, that's why. As sad as it is.

Yes, I wouldnt think anything smaller than that would clear the brakes. It might not even clear a 17.

Jack up one of the front tires and use a pry bar to check for back and up and down movement.

I went from a 2008 6 speed to a 2013 6 speed. The 2013 was leaps and bounds above the 2008 and I enjoyed driving it. I would think by now they would have both the 6 speed and 8 speed very well sorted. And, a tune would help prolong the life of the transmission as well.

If you're looking for tires, ill put in my 2 cents and recommend what I enjoy. Cooper Discoverer A/T3. Longer tread ware warranty, slightly more aggressive and a cheaper tire. (by a little bit) I've ran them on 3 of my vehicles now and I am a fan. After 30k on one truck they still easily had another 30k in them. https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Discoverer-Traction-Radial-Tire/dp/B00MXNWEK6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520791226&sr=1-1&keywords=cooper+discoverer+a%2Ft3+275%2F55r20 Edit: I just realized these tires are actually 10 more on amazon, Ill look for a better deal.

Nope, they should just be able to change the inside. The axle housing is the same but differential is what changes.