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mr5994

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About mr5994

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  1. Yeah....from what I've read, it's a little on the low side.......however because fuel pressure doesn't drop while its stalling/stumbling.....it would not appear to be the cause of my issue.
  2. One other thing that I had forgotten to mention......after starting a cold engine....there is no issue at all.....foot on brake, in drive idle is around 700 rpm and no hint of stalling/stumbling. Drive around a few minutes and stalling issue is back. Maybe open loop idle is set a little higher in the ecm than closed loop?
  3. I have an 03 Suburban 5.3 that stalls only when I have my foot on the brake while in gear.....no issues at all idling in park or driving down the road. Prior to stalling, RPM will drop below 400 and volt gauge will drop below 12. ECM is not throwing any codes. What I've done to date: Replaced battery Replaced alternator Cleaned MAF Replaced MAF with known good unit Checked fuel pressure: 45 psi in park at idle, 55 psi in park at idle vac line off reg, 45 psi idle in drive, foot on brake while nearly stalling at 400 rpm. What should I try next? I see that a failing crank sensor will often exhibit the same symptoms....anything else? I do have a blue tooth OBD2 scanner.....so if there are any parameters I can monitor to help diagnose the issue....I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.
  4. Removing the ebcm is not too difficult. What I'm looking for is an alternative to removing the abs pump from the vehicle.
  5. The vehicle in question is an 03 suburban. A couple years back, the abs light came on.....intermittently at first..... eventually it was constantly on. I found that the pigtail from the abs pump that plugs into module was the culprit. the copper wire strands had broken right at the edge of the connector.....I suppose due to vibration and corrosion over time. At the time, I was able to roughly splice the connector back on. But there was very limited room to work, so the best I could do was twist the wires together...and wrap with electrical tape. Again, this wiring originates at the abs pump and plugs into the abs module.....so there is no easy option to repair the splice off the vehicle. The makeshift repair worked for a year or so, but the abs light is back. It is apparent that in need to make a proper soldered and shrinkwrapped splice. I'd rather not pull the entire abs pump/valve.....then have to bleed the brakes once everything is back together. Are there any shortcuts? Can I remove the abs motor only and leave the rest of the pump on the frame? Can I disconnect the abs pump from the frame, leave the brake lines attached....and drop/twist the pump far enough to allow enough room to make a proper splice?
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