FiatDale

The 10 speed is the same as the one in ZL1, should be able to handle it no problem

Yep.

Yes, but each tech typically has only one pc with MDI so that would be taken up by the truck downloading the software. I agree there’s other ways about it, but sometimes it just is what it is

Safety recalls must be repaired before they can go back to a customer, parts or no parts. Just the way it is. Tons of manufactures ran into this on new vehicles during the Takata recall. I’m more worried about the **** on his phone who causes the crash than I am of the seatbelt which may or may not cause a carpet fire.

While I agree, as long as the vehicle is sitting I. Someone’s bay, it’s also preventing another vehicle from being worked on. Glad they agreed to .5. Mine took about 30 mins to flash

Hey it’s possible it needs more depth. I’m not sure yet, I haven’t torn the whole thing apart until I get the rest of my parts that are on order. My other fear is the ductwork will be different. We will see shortly.

They didn’t cross the K2 truck interior with the SUV, they won’t for the T1 either. They want to differentiate the two from now on

That’s a backup cam, not the rearview mirror cam. I will say that in combo with the side mirrors and this mirror, there are ZERO blind spots. Literally no need for the blind spot monitoring because you can see everything.

One more part, which I will update tomorrow with PN that’s needed is the defroster grille piece. It’s much smaller than the non HUD one, so there’s just one more piece. But the nice thing is the dash for HUD is soft touch as opposed to hard plastic.

Nice RST lol. Looks good.

I don’t have HUD windshield. Like the K2, the image will be blurred. If you tint your windshield (which i think is illegal in most states) the blurriness would disappear. My plan is to tint my windshield with 70% so it’s not noticeable to the naked eye but would make a perfect reflection for the HUD. And only $100 vs probably $700 for the replacement glass

Some background, I do auto body by trade at a GM dealer here in Houston. I’m very well versed on these things and their assembly so you’ll have to forgive me when I say it’s easy, because I do this stuff everyday. By most DIY standards this is an easy job, it just may take you half a day so you’re careful. I will do a write up with pics soon.

If they do, they’d charge it hourly at their shop rate of ~$95/hr. They would most likely do it all on book time, so if I had to guess they’d figure 4-5 hours. For that much in labor - you’ll be able to do it easily.

I’ll do a write up, but it’s tricky to not screw up the headliner by putting a crease in it. Also, I use air tools which made things 10x easier because some of the 10mm are hard to get to with the headliner in your way.

K it works. Zero programming needed plug and play. When I have time to compile everything I’ll do a whole write up. Get your parts on order.

The trim bezel that goes around the instrument cluster holds the HUD switch. Just need that to come in.

And I’m the pompous king? Here trying to help

I may be the one that says I don’t care for it. It doesn’t look good since it’s cropped off. I get that the slider is square, just doesn’t look good IMO

I don’t think either of you read what I’ve typed. Here is what you need: Spoiler assembly with camera (black) 84515287 Mirror 13532977 Coax cable 84335461 You do NOT need to buy the PN I ACCIDENTALLY put for the camera, that PN was for just the lamp/camera assembly. It does not have the additional length harness to reach inside the cabin. This piece being on the roof and not wanting to slice thru the grommet and throw some cheap silicone on it in fear of leaks, I would suggest getting the spoiler assembly PN above WHICH COMES WITH THE LAMP AND CAMERA & ADDITIONAL LENGTH HARNESS. Maybe you’ll even get lucky and the clips will be tighter than before so it won’t do the spoiler pop we all experience. You guys are making this way more difficult than it is. It’s 3 parts. Yes they’re pricey. Yes it’s cheaper to buy these options when built new. You want to save $20 by making your own coax cable and splicing off ends go right ahead. The lead off of the mirror is about 1”. Try not to screw that up on a $500+ mirror. If you’re already spending close to $800, what’s another $20 to make it as factory as possible with a pre terminated cable.

84532302

Ah my bad. That’s JUST the lamp. Not spoiler. The deal is the harness on just the light is not long enough to extend into the cab, it needs the extension which is tied into the 3rd brake light harness which brings it inside. The coax going from the mirror to camera is not long enough to reach just the plug on the camera / lamp, it needs that extension which is NOT sold separately, only with the complete spoiler assembly

The spoiler is definitely not $200. Used on eBay with camera are around $300. List from GM is $430. If you found or that cheap, chances are it’s a 3rd brake light without camera. As I believe GM has fixed them so they don’t leak anymore, so that’s something you’ll risk with a used one. GM isn’t going to warranty it if it didn’t come on the truck new. You need the mirror, coax cable and spoiler with camera. Rearview Camera: 3rd Brake w/ Cam: 84487008 Rearview mirror screen: 13532977 Coax cable: 84335461 It’s a simple coax, but without the connectors you are not going to make your own dot rely on splicing, I don’t care what kind of wiring guru you are, do it right. Especially when the cable only costs $30.

My cluster bezel did not come in, got everything else. Might be another week on that

So as an FYI, you cannot just buy the replacement light with camera, you need to buy the spoiler with the camera in order to get the complete harness. It’s a 2 piece harness on the spoiler (it doesn’t go all the way back to the mirror, you still need the coax). But if you buy just the lamp with camera, it will not plug into the coax extension to the mirror. I bought both to check it out, you need the whole spoiler to get the complete harness. ~$300. PN for black (not sure if they all come preprinted or not, but you can buy the complete spoiler assembly and remove the lamp / harness and put it in your existing spoiler so no extra painting cost is needed) is 84487008