I don't think this would have anything to do with it but it's worth mentioning. Two months back I did a slow speed rear end into the back of a lifted pickup. The front of my hood hit his trailer hitch right at the hood latch point which crumpled the hood and broke and pushed back the upper radiator support...what the hood latches into. The equipment on that support, radiator ect were also pushed back but luckily nothing came in contact with the engine. Pushing the upper radiator support back had the effect of pushing both front fenders outward about 3/8 inch. Just yesterday I got the car back from having the front bumper plastic and that upper radiator support piece replaced. I was referred to that shop but I'm not too sure how good they are..definitely cheap though. What I'm wondering is...is it possible something got disconnected then not reconnected properly from that job that's resulted in my transmission misbehaving?
Have an '02 Ford Taurus that's been grandma driven for all of it's 95k miles. After doing some very easy driving in town for a couple hours today I accelerated up to about 50 and noticed the car didn't seem to be responding to the gas pedal anymore. Looked down and the engine was doing 4k rpm so I let off the gas. Pumped the gas a couple times to see if the car responded and got nothing. Coasted to a stop in a safe lane and tested it in all the gears...nothing. The car stays put if you put it in park but you can roll it back when in any other gear position. The gear leaver on the tree does still give resistance when you move between gears. No music was playing and there was no noticeable sound whenever the breakage occurred. Called a friend and was advised to check the gear shift linkage at the top of the transmission. I'm not familiar with what the arm's full range of motion is supposed to be but I noted it's position while in park and low 1 and it seems to be moving well. Felt the connections and they seemed solid. Without the benefit of being able to do a proper run-up to a transmission fluid check I wiped and re-dipped the stick and it read fairly high although I hadn't added any fluid for at least 10k miles. The fluid was just a shade darker than light pink and although I didn't check specifically it didn't seem to have a burnt smell. There's no way low engine oil could cause something like this is there? Any ideas?
Damn, it took 30 years of driving to cause my first accident, and on Friday the damn 13th. Did a low speed rear end into the back of a lifted truck and got into it's trailer receiver. The only place it made contact with was at the very front center of the hood close to where it latches. Unfortunately the impact was enough that there's a longitudinal hump in the middle of the hood now, bowed 6 inches on each side above the quarter panels, which weren't involved at all thank God. Both my headlights are cracked at the top, but not because they got hit; I think it was because the hood and it's latch was pushed back during the collision possibly deforming the support structure, causing the to separate. The hood is lifted up about 3 inches above each headlight and when looking in at the support material just behind each headlight, one side shows cracks and the other cracks and about a 1/2 gap in the material. Can't tell but it may resemble fiberglass, not really sure? My best guess is that the whole front bumper is gonna have to come off and that entire front support piece be replaced. Any advice on how hard this can be? I do a lot of my own work but I really don't want to be getting into this especially with the weather getting so bad now. When I go junkyard shopping for parts, what year Tauruses are compatible with my '02?
Thanks for the good advice. I should be able to make an educated decision now. And yes, I most certainly appreciate the expertise here. To clarify, the subject of my thread concerned the quality of different aftermarket starter manufacturers.
I'm outfitting my middle aged '02 Taurus with a new starter and need some advice on what brand starter to get. I'm tempted to get this reman Motorcraft, the fourth one down in the orange remanufactured section.. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2002,taurus,3.0l+v6+ohv,1385771,electrical,starter+motor,4152 For $123 that seems reasonable for a OE reman. If not this one I'll probably be going for a reman of another brand so why not go OE? The other reman options I'm seeing at the car stores are... Napa brand Bosch Denso Driveworks at Advance Carquest Duralast Valucraft Ultima Bestest Should I go with the Motorcraft or one of these? $123 sounds almost too good although I really don't know.
So this '02 Taurus with only 87k miles on her starts right up every time multiple times a day except for twice in the last 3 weeks. The first time was 3 weeks ago and the second was today. It happened the same both times. Turn the key and stop to let the pump prime, then when I turn to the start position the engine turns real slow and sort of in fits. Usually when a battery is low the engine turns slow but in rhythm. During my 2 starts the engine barely seemed to turn and the crankshaft rpm seemed to vary. On both starting events I let off the key and tried to start 2-3 times with rests in between. But then eventually on the 4th try it starts right up just as quickly as a normal start. I have No clue as to what might be causing this. Only thing I know to do is, next time it does this to put a voltage meter on the battery to see if it's weak. Actually though, because both events the engine ended up starting up like normal that would indicate something other than the batt. Electrically this car is a little odd though. The interior light never comes on when the doors are opened, for years, and then last week it comes on twice when one of the rear doors is opened.
Last time I installed a remote start system it was on an old Dynasty whose wiring was too delicate to work on really. A couple weeks after installation it started ok but a ton of white smoke came from under the dash. I uninstalled the entire system and everything was fine after that. So in picking out a starter for this '02 Taurus I want something simple that will work with this car well. The start systems I'm seeing are generally designed to do door locking and unlocking, trunk release, etc. As this car already has those functions on a fob I won't be using any function on any future remote start system other than the remote start. Can anyone with knowledge of my car recommend a decent but low cost / low extra functions start system that would work well with my Taurus? Thanks
I see. Sorry to have confused anyone. I should have said fan instead of air. The a/c was off as I stated in the very next sentence. My compressor seems to be running when only the fan option is selected.
I have an '02 Taurus with 85k miles on her that I just bought. Today when I was checking something under the hood I noticed this metal line cold and dripping with water... I had the air on but turned to the position of arrows pointing out of the dash and floor vents only. The defrost or a/c function was not selected. It seems to be doing it consistently. I haven't traced all the parts of this car's a/c system yet but I don't know of anything else under a hood that turns cold and sweats. Why would my compressor be working when it's not selected? What tests should I run?
This may sound like a stupid question, as I'm prone to ask sometimes. But...I drive a '96 Cherokee with the inline 4.0 non-interference engine and it doesn't like driving in the heat so much. Since I'm a car down right now I'm driving it a LOT more than I used to. After a lot of driving in this hot weather it starts slower, but still starts and runs ok. So to help it out I've been raising the hood and putting 2 box fans right on top of the engine to help it cool. I hadn't thought about it but my Mom asked if cooling it down too quickly could be bad for the engine. And since I don't know I thought I'd ask here. Any harm in using my method to cool an engine down much more quickly than normal?
Found a fairly comprehensive front end kit for a great deal...like $137 for all of this... 2006-11 Ford Lincoln Mercury Steering & Suspension Kit 12 Piece Set - 1ASFK05040 link to item I'd rather go with something more dependable like Moog at least on the lower ball joints. What do you think? Should I go with this kit and save? She's got 320k on her now.
Considering the mileage I've decided to change out everything I can. Ordering 2 new top A-arm assemblies, 2 lower ball joints, 4 lower A-arm bushings, 2 new strut assemblies w/ springs, and 2 sway bar links. This only leaves the tie rod ends which there is a chance are not original. This car was part of a fleet that got regular maintenance so since I didn't see any movement at the outer tie rod ends when I was doing the 3 & 9 push test I'm thinking they may have already been replaced. I'll put in everything I've ordered and see how the steering is after that. Do you always do both inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time or is it common just to do the outer, or just the inner? Found a decent set of ebay shock and spring, strut? assemblies for $150 but it's specified as fitting the interceptor model whereas mine is just the base model. Would they still work ok?
Well I've decided I'm gonna give it a shot at doing this myself. 'Couple' questions... - I know the lower BJ presses out, but does the top one press out as well? - Does the sway bar link have to come off for better access? - Anything else I should change out while I'm in there? So far I'm gonna be doing both upper and lower BJs and probably the tie rod ends. - I've been told to use green loc tite. That would be used on the threads on the bottom of the BJs? - Also been told to watch out for the spring shooting out at me but I believe I have a shock in spring, a strut? Is there any danger of this spring suddenly popping out after tension is eased? I don't plan on removing the spring at all. - The Moog BJ I'm considering at Rockauto doesn't appear to have a grease boot. Am I looking at this picture wrong? Is that black part a boot that will expand when it's filled up?
Just got the car back from a front end inspection and they're saying my biggest problem is that both lower ball joints need to be replaced. I've done work similar to this before (using a pickle fork to separate joints and using a rented ball joint press) but they were advising it might be too tough of a job to do by myself in my driveway. I have a 1000lb impact wrench but only a really small compressor. What do you guys think about attempting this job myself? Any advice?
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