Everything posted by bradleyheathhays
This may sound like a stupid question, as I'm prone to ask sometimes. But...I drive a '96 Cherokee with the inline 4.0 non-interference engine and it doesn't like driving in the heat so much. Since I'm a car down right now I'm driving it a LOT more than I used to. After a lot of driving in this hot weather it starts slower, but still starts and runs ok. So to help it out I've been raising the hood and putting 2 box fans right on top of the engine to help it cool. I hadn't thought about it but my Mom asked if cooling it down too quickly could be bad for the engine. And since I don't know I thought I'd ask here. Any harm in using my method to cool an engine down much more quickly than normal?
Found a fairly comprehensive front end kit for a great deal...like $137 for all of this... 2006-11 Ford Lincoln Mercury Steering & Suspension Kit 12 Piece Set - 1ASFK05040 link to item I'd rather go with something more dependable like Moog at least on the lower ball joints. What do you think? Should I go with this kit and save? She's got 320k on her now.
Considering the mileage I've decided to change out everything I can. Ordering 2 new top A-arm assemblies, 2 lower ball joints, 4 lower A-arm bushings, 2 new strut assemblies w/ springs, and 2 sway bar links. This only leaves the tie rod ends which there is a chance are not original. This car was part of a fleet that got regular maintenance so since I didn't see any movement at the outer tie rod ends when I was doing the 3 & 9 push test I'm thinking they may have already been replaced. I'll put in everything I've ordered and see how the steering is after that. Do you always do both inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time or is it common just to do the outer, or just the inner? Found a decent set of ebay shock and spring, strut? assemblies for $150 but it's specified as fitting the interceptor model whereas mine is just the base model. Would they still work ok?
Well I've decided I'm gonna give it a shot at doing this myself. 'Couple' questions... - I know the lower BJ presses out, but does the top one press out as well? - Does the sway bar link have to come off for better access? - Anything else I should change out while I'm in there? So far I'm gonna be doing both upper and lower BJs and probably the tie rod ends. - I've been told to use green loc tite. That would be used on the threads on the bottom of the BJs? - Also been told to watch out for the spring shooting out at me but I believe I have a shock in spring, a strut? Is there any danger of this spring suddenly popping out after tension is eased? I don't plan on removing the spring at all. - The Moog BJ I'm considering at Rockauto doesn't appear to have a grease boot. Am I looking at this picture wrong? Is that black part a boot that will expand when it's filled up?
Just got the car back from a front end inspection and they're saying my biggest problem is that both lower ball joints need to be replaced. I've done work similar to this before (using a pickle fork to separate joints and using a rented ball joint press) but they were advising it might be too tough of a job to do by myself in my driveway. I have a 1000lb impact wrench but only a really small compressor. What do you guys think about attempting this job myself? Any advice?
My '11 Crown Vic has got 315k miles on it and I'm having some kind of tracking problem that I think is coming from the steering. If there's not much wind it drives straight down the road just fine up to about 60 mph. But if the winds up some, or if I take it up to 70, it's tracking characteristics start to get weird and unsettling. Rain seems to cause it to get worse as well. The feeling is not dissimilar to hydroplaning. I got the wheels off the ground and pushed/pulled on all the tires..3 and 9 o'clock, 6 and 12. Back wheels were solid, and the fronts were ok when I did the 6 and 12, but on the 3 and 9 test the tires moved about 1/4". They didn't move easily say as if they were completely loose, but it didn't take all that much effort to get them rocking either. At each limit of movement there's a low grade thud that's coming from somewhere between the two wheels, pretty close to the center of the car I'd say. I don't know if the movement I'm seeing is normal, but the degree the steering seems to be unpredictable would seem to correlate to about the degree of movement I'm seeing with the 3 and 9 test. Any ideas on where I go from here?
So I put a headlight wiring kit from LMC Truck on my '96 Cherokee that circumvents the normal wiring and runs the headlights directly off the battery by way of a relay. The kit runs the lights at 55/100 (low, hi) watts instead of the original 55/60. One reason I did this was because the light output was terrible, and the other was because for some unknown reason the headlights would shut off after being on hi for a bit. Never did this on low. I've had the new wiring kit on for a few years now and it seems to have solved the issue. The problem I'm having now though is that this new harness is melting at one of the connections. You can see only one of the wires is overheating while the other seems to be ok. I'm guessing the hot one is used by the high beams. What could be causing this? Could it be related to why the high beams used to shut off before I replaced the wiring harness? A while back I asked about the shutting off issue on a number of Jeep boards but nobody had heard of this particular problem before.
Thanks for the info and sorry it took so long to get back. The check engine light went off but it came back on yesterday so I got the codes read again. Guy's machine read 4 codes but said they were all the same code...P0430. I'm game for the lacquer thinner option I've been hearing about. I see low voc lacquer thinner for sale. Wonder if it matters which version you use?
What's a good long lasting tire dressing? I used to use this stuff called Wipe New - Tires but it's since been discontinued. There was a process. First you soaped and scrub cleaned the tire, then let dry. Then you don a 3M chemical filter cartridge mask, because no joke this stuff was noxious, then you applied just a teeny bit to the provided sponge and applied to the tire. Go around doing all 4 then then come back and do it again. The black lasted for a good long while...couple months before you had to do it again. Is there anything like this still out there on the market?
2011 Crown Vic here with 305k miles, and today my engine light comes on. Scan at the local Advanced comes up with 4 codes on the cat converter. Guy says I need to get something called Cataclean and run it through the gas tank to correct the problem. Is it worth doing this...will it make the engine run better or get better gas mileage? Should I use Cataclean or some other product to get this done?
So my Mom drives a 2002 Ford Taurus that I believe has one of the Takata airbags that have been killing people. So far her car hasn't been recalled for the airbag, but I know this recall is being done piece meal as they can't do them all at once, and since the recall applies to the year right close to hers I suspect hers eventually will be recalled as well. Either way I don't want to take the chance, and here's why... The explanation for why these things are going off is there's some defect in the manufacturing that when the air bag is exposed to humid conditions and lots of temp fluctuations, something in them weakens and there they go. Mom's Taurus has a windshield leak so, even though it's never smelled, there's always been a virtual puddle of water in driver's side floor board. So the inside of the car has always been humid, just like in the airbag explosion scenarios. So, for the time being, until she gets into another car, I'd like to disconnect her airbag to be on the safe side. She is an amazingly vigilant driver, never even a speeding ticket, and the risk of her rear ending someone is virtually non-existent. How would I go about disabling an airbag on a 2002 Ford Taurus? Or, alternatively, how do I open the steering wheel column, or front of the steering wheel, which might be part of the disabling process itself, and identify if Mom's airbag is indeed one of the defective types?
Hey everybody. I've got a 2011 Crown Vic and I'm trying to replace a leaky schrader valve on my AC lines, but apparently I've got some kind of larger version of the valve that I'm not familiar with. I went to the local AC shop and the guy looked at mine and let me have one he'd removed from another car. I have this kind of valve on both the high and low pressure lines where you hook your vac gauges to. Does anyone know what this kind of valve this ones called or where I can get replacements, or what the tool is that would take it out? My regular schrader valve tool is too small for it.
Haven't found a crack in the manifold so far but haven't been able inspect 100% of it just yet. I was blowing the leaking coolant away with compressed air and watching it reform and it seems to be coming from the seal between the front aluminum part and the plastic.
Thanks for helping a stranger everybody. Found the leak at the front driver corner of the intake manifold. Really wish it wasn't so cold out now. Any last advice on a cheap place to get a OEM intake manifold? Considering how much this car is driven I better stay away from after market. Holy shit cpt just saw where you're from. Hope you made it through everything ok.
Thanks for the continued advice everyone. Probably might be able to get through this by myself now without having to pay a garage mechanic big $. Now what's the problem with stop leak? I guess stopping flow where it's not supposed to? I'm probably swapping the intake manifold with the info I have now.
My '11 Crown vic with 270k miles suddenly started running rough mostly at the lower end of the gears. By the time you got into o/d the whole car shook. Scan tool gives me P0307 cyl 7 misfire, and P0316 misfire upon startup. So I pull the coil on 7 to find a pool of burnt smelling coolant about 2" deep. Siphoned and blew it out and removed the plug to find it's electrodes fouled with a thin coat of something shiny and black. Rubbed off without much effort. The plugs are about 4 weeks and 1500 miles old. Pulled cyl 6 coil right next to it and found a lot of white particles about half the size of rice stuck to the sides of the plug well walls. Seemed odd as I'd just blown out all the plug wells a month ago. Blew it out again and removed the plug to reveal electrodes that were coated slightly white. This plug had a ring of a black just south of the hex part. Looked like darkened sort of coagulated oil. Wiped off easily. The car drives much better now after blowing the antifreeze out of the plug well but the miss is still there. So glad as this might buy me some time to get this figured out. I'm not even sure how it's possible for coolant to get in a plug well. Any ideas, head gasket maybe? What's my next step in investigating?
Sorry it's been so long to get back here but I sure appreciate all the advice. I hear ya...it's true it'd be easier to find a newer model truck considering the options I'm wanting / would need to add, but it seems like the more I look into things I'm just hooked on this early to mid 60s era truck. And now that my idea is a little more evolved I'm probably moving toward either a 63-66 c10 or f100, but probably it'll end up being the c10. And thanks stereo for you advice on trying to find one of these trucks where most of the work is already done. The lesson I've learned so far is that you almost never get all the money out of one of these resto projects that you put into it...so why put yourself through all the hassle and money and just look for something that's mostly done instead? Any advice on what kind of auto trans you'd pair with one of the original 6 cyl engines that came in these c10s?
Hi. I'm new to the board and I've come to see if the good people here can help me narrow down a pickup truck model to focus on as a rebuild project. Lately I've been learning some about the 60-66 trucks and decided this is the style I'd like to focus on. But before I get into the project details, a little about myself.. I'm a self taught reasonably competent mechanic that's been doing all my car maintenance (except deep engine, clutch or trans work) for the last 20 years or so. I have some body (bondo, primer and wet sanding) experience but haven't done much in the way of dent removal or panel replacement. Although I don't have a lot of welding experience mig welding comes naturally enough. If I don't know how to do something I ask questions, and with good advice can usually get the job done. So, what I'm looking for.. Basically I'd like to find a good, what I'd call 'atomic era' truck of early to mid 60s (or 50s possibly) to get into good shape and use as a work truck. After getting it right mechanically and with a great body and paint job, it would be used primarily to travel to bid on residential and commercial painting jobs. Basically it would be used as a selling point to illustrate the quality of work we do as a company. Requirements for the truck is to be gas efficient, which would probably mean an in-line 6 engine paired with an auto trans w/ overdrive. And to be comfortable and drivable... meaning power steering, disc brakes and a/c. It would need to handle stop and go city driving, as well as be able to do short hops of 65 mph safely on the interstate. Hauling duties would be minimal. The model I've gotten to know best so far are the 60-66 Chevy c10s, although I'm open to just about anything including the same era f100s or Internationals, or I even sort of like the 50s Chevy Advance Design models. So that's about it. You guys have an opinion on what model trucks of this era would be a good candidate for what I'm looking to do?
Heavy I'm not sure what a powerglide is? Please do tell. and muddkatt thanks for the trans info. I modified my original post to show your advice. I'd like to get away with all this with dependable parts, but as cheaply as I can. With this in mind any advice on about how much these upgrades will cost me...ballpark figure is good enough.
Hey I'm new to these awesome 60-66 Chevy trucks and was hoping to ease in, but I just ran up on what I think is a decent '64 c-10 for sale and need to get some fast feedback. This one is a 3 on the tree long bed step side, which I've never seen before, and seems to be in good shape. Am waiting back for more pictures of the underneath side for indications of rust. My issue is I have a budget of course and I would like my eventual truck to end up with a 6 cyl, a TH350 or 700R4 auto trans, power steering, and a/c. And of all of these this truck only has the 6, so at least it's a start. So my questions are...how difficult and costly is it to add individually... one of these auto trans to a 3 on the tree truck, a/c, and power steering? Although I've never gotten too deep in my engine, clutch or trans I pretty much do all the work on my cars..96 Jeep Cherokee and an 02 Maxima. So if I can do a fair amount of this work myself, how much would each of these upgrades end up costing me, in parts?
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