Everything posted by bradleyheathhays
Just now rolling over 100k miles. Been feeling some steering weirdness so I get one front wheel up in the air and push at 3 and 9 and sure enough there's some wobble. Pushing at 12 and 6 gives no play at all. Although I'll probably be replacing the worn part myself I need some help diagnosing what all might need to be replaced. And since I need an alignment anyway I've made a deal w/ my local Goodyear tire shop to do a pre alignment inspection and identify my bad part(s) so I can replace them before they do the job. When I drop the car off what specific parts should I ask them to look at? I'm sure tie rod ends but what other kind of worn parts could be causing movement on the 3-9 push test?
I've got an '02 Ford Taurus with 99k miles that's got something loose in the front end but I'm not entirely sure what it is. When under moderate to hard braking there's a quick shaking in the front of the car and the steering wheel jerks in sync with the shaking. Jacked up one front wheel, left the other on the ground, and sure enough the wheel moves when pushed at 3 and 9 o'clock, but not at 12 and 6. Any advice on where to go from here?
I don't think this would have anything to do with it but it's worth mentioning. Two months back I did a slow speed rear end into the back of a lifted pickup. The front of my hood hit his trailer hitch right at the hood latch point which crumpled the hood and broke and pushed back the upper radiator support...what the hood latches into. The equipment on that support, radiator ect were also pushed back but luckily nothing came in contact with the engine. Pushing the upper radiator support back had the effect of pushing both front fenders outward about 3/8 inch. Just yesterday I got the car back from having the front bumper plastic and that upper radiator support piece replaced. I was referred to that shop but I'm not too sure how good they are..definitely cheap though. What I'm wondering is...is it possible something got disconnected then not reconnected properly from that job that's resulted in my transmission misbehaving?
Have an '02 Ford Taurus that's been grandma driven for all of it's 95k miles. After doing some very easy driving in town for a couple hours today I accelerated up to about 50 and noticed the car didn't seem to be responding to the gas pedal anymore. Looked down and the engine was doing 4k rpm so I let off the gas. Pumped the gas a couple times to see if the car responded and got nothing. Coasted to a stop in a safe lane and tested it in all the gears...nothing. The car stays put if you put it in park but you can roll it back when in any other gear position. The gear leaver on the tree does still give resistance when you move between gears. No music was playing and there was no noticeable sound whenever the breakage occurred. Called a friend and was advised to check the gear shift linkage at the top of the transmission. I'm not familiar with what the arm's full range of motion is supposed to be but I noted it's position while in park and low 1 and it seems to be moving well. Felt the connections and they seemed solid. Without the benefit of being able to do a proper run-up to a transmission fluid check I wiped and re-dipped the stick and it read fairly high although I hadn't added any fluid for at least 10k miles. The fluid was just a shade darker than light pink and although I didn't check specifically it didn't seem to have a burnt smell. There's no way low engine oil could cause something like this is there? Any ideas?
Damn, it took 30 years of driving to cause my first accident, and on Friday the damn 13th. Did a low speed rear end into the back of a lifted truck and got into it's trailer receiver. The only place it made contact with was at the very front center of the hood close to where it latches. Unfortunately the impact was enough that there's a longitudinal hump in the middle of the hood now, bowed 6 inches on each side above the quarter panels, which weren't involved at all thank God. Both my headlights are cracked at the top, but not because they got hit; I think it was because the hood and it's latch was pushed back during the collision possibly deforming the support structure, causing the to separate. The hood is lifted up about 3 inches above each headlight and when looking in at the support material just behind each headlight, one side shows cracks and the other cracks and about a 1/2 gap in the material. Can't tell but it may resemble fiberglass, not really sure? My best guess is that the whole front bumper is gonna have to come off and that entire front support piece be replaced. Any advice on how hard this can be? I do a lot of my own work but I really don't want to be getting into this especially with the weather getting so bad now. When I go junkyard shopping for parts, what year Tauruses are compatible with my '02?
Thanks for the good advice. I should be able to make an educated decision now. And yes, I most certainly appreciate the expertise here. To clarify, the subject of my thread concerned the quality of different aftermarket starter manufacturers.
I'm outfitting my middle aged '02 Taurus with a new starter and need some advice on what brand starter to get. I'm tempted to get this reman Motorcraft, the fourth one down in the orange remanufactured section.. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2002,taurus,3.0l+v6+ohv,1385771,electrical,starter+motor,4152 For $123 that seems reasonable for a OE reman. If not this one I'll probably be going for a reman of another brand so why not go OE? The other reman options I'm seeing at the car stores are... Napa brand Bosch Denso Driveworks at Advance Carquest Duralast Valucraft Ultima Bestest Should I go with the Motorcraft or one of these? $123 sounds almost too good although I really don't know.
So this '02 Taurus with only 87k miles on her starts right up every time multiple times a day except for twice in the last 3 weeks. The first time was 3 weeks ago and the second was today. It happened the same both times. Turn the key and stop to let the pump prime, then when I turn to the start position the engine turns real slow and sort of in fits. Usually when a battery is low the engine turns slow but in rhythm. During my 2 starts the engine barely seemed to turn and the crankshaft rpm seemed to vary. On both starting events I let off the key and tried to start 2-3 times with rests in between. But then eventually on the 4th try it starts right up just as quickly as a normal start. I have No clue as to what might be causing this. Only thing I know to do is, next time it does this to put a voltage meter on the battery to see if it's weak. Actually though, because both events the engine ended up starting up like normal that would indicate something other than the batt. Electrically this car is a little odd though. The interior light never comes on when the doors are opened, for years, and then last week it comes on twice when one of the rear doors is opened.
Last time I installed a remote start system it was on an old Dynasty whose wiring was too delicate to work on really. A couple weeks after installation it started ok but a ton of white smoke came from under the dash. I uninstalled the entire system and everything was fine after that. So in picking out a starter for this '02 Taurus I want something simple that will work with this car well. The start systems I'm seeing are generally designed to do door locking and unlocking, trunk release, etc. As this car already has those functions on a fob I won't be using any function on any future remote start system other than the remote start. Can anyone with knowledge of my car recommend a decent but low cost / low extra functions start system that would work well with my Taurus? Thanks
I see. Sorry to have confused anyone. I should have said fan instead of air. The a/c was off as I stated in the very next sentence. My compressor seems to be running when only the fan option is selected.
I have an '02 Taurus with 85k miles on her that I just bought. Today when I was checking something under the hood I noticed this metal line cold and dripping with water... I had the air on but turned to the position of arrows pointing out of the dash and floor vents only. The defrost or a/c function was not selected. It seems to be doing it consistently. I haven't traced all the parts of this car's a/c system yet but I don't know of anything else under a hood that turns cold and sweats. Why would my compressor be working when it's not selected? What tests should I run?
This may sound like a stupid question, as I'm prone to ask sometimes. But...I drive a '96 Cherokee with the inline 4.0 non-interference engine and it doesn't like driving in the heat so much. Since I'm a car down right now I'm driving it a LOT more than I used to. After a lot of driving in this hot weather it starts slower, but still starts and runs ok. So to help it out I've been raising the hood and putting 2 box fans right on top of the engine to help it cool. I hadn't thought about it but my Mom asked if cooling it down too quickly could be bad for the engine. And since I don't know I thought I'd ask here. Any harm in using my method to cool an engine down much more quickly than normal?
Found a fairly comprehensive front end kit for a great deal...like $137 for all of this... 2006-11 Ford Lincoln Mercury Steering & Suspension Kit 12 Piece Set - 1ASFK05040 link to item I'd rather go with something more dependable like Moog at least on the lower ball joints. What do you think? Should I go with this kit and save? She's got 320k on her now.
Considering the mileage I've decided to change out everything I can. Ordering 2 new top A-arm assemblies, 2 lower ball joints, 4 lower A-arm bushings, 2 new strut assemblies w/ springs, and 2 sway bar links. This only leaves the tie rod ends which there is a chance are not original. This car was part of a fleet that got regular maintenance so since I didn't see any movement at the outer tie rod ends when I was doing the 3 & 9 push test I'm thinking they may have already been replaced. I'll put in everything I've ordered and see how the steering is after that. Do you always do both inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time or is it common just to do the outer, or just the inner? Found a decent set of ebay shock and spring, strut? assemblies for $150 but it's specified as fitting the interceptor model whereas mine is just the base model. Would they still work ok?
Well I've decided I'm gonna give it a shot at doing this myself. 'Couple' questions... - I know the lower BJ presses out, but does the top one press out as well? - Does the sway bar link have to come off for better access? - Anything else I should change out while I'm in there? So far I'm gonna be doing both upper and lower BJs and probably the tie rod ends. - I've been told to use green loc tite. That would be used on the threads on the bottom of the BJs? - Also been told to watch out for the spring shooting out at me but I believe I have a shock in spring, a strut? Is there any danger of this spring suddenly popping out after tension is eased? I don't plan on removing the spring at all. - The Moog BJ I'm considering at Rockauto doesn't appear to have a grease boot. Am I looking at this picture wrong? Is that black part a boot that will expand when it's filled up?
Just got the car back from a front end inspection and they're saying my biggest problem is that both lower ball joints need to be replaced. I've done work similar to this before (using a pickle fork to separate joints and using a rented ball joint press) but they were advising it might be too tough of a job to do by myself in my driveway. I have a 1000lb impact wrench but only a really small compressor. What do you guys think about attempting this job myself? Any advice?
My '11 Crown Vic has got 315k miles on it and I'm having some kind of tracking problem that I think is coming from the steering. If there's not much wind it drives straight down the road just fine up to about 60 mph. But if the winds up some, or if I take it up to 70, it's tracking characteristics start to get weird and unsettling. Rain seems to cause it to get worse as well. The feeling is not dissimilar to hydroplaning. I got the wheels off the ground and pushed/pulled on all the tires..3 and 9 o'clock, 6 and 12. Back wheels were solid, and the fronts were ok when I did the 6 and 12, but on the 3 and 9 test the tires moved about 1/4". They didn't move easily say as if they were completely loose, but it didn't take all that much effort to get them rocking either. At each limit of movement there's a low grade thud that's coming from somewhere between the two wheels, pretty close to the center of the car I'd say. I don't know if the movement I'm seeing is normal, but the degree the steering seems to be unpredictable would seem to correlate to about the degree of movement I'm seeing with the 3 and 9 test. Any ideas on where I go from here?
So I put a headlight wiring kit from LMC Truck on my '96 Cherokee that circumvents the normal wiring and runs the headlights directly off the battery by way of a relay. The kit runs the lights at 55/100 (low, hi) watts instead of the original 55/60. One reason I did this was because the light output was terrible, and the other was because for some unknown reason the headlights would shut off after being on hi for a bit. Never did this on low. I've had the new wiring kit on for a few years now and it seems to have solved the issue. The problem I'm having now though is that this new harness is melting at one of the connections. You can see only one of the wires is overheating while the other seems to be ok. I'm guessing the hot one is used by the high beams. What could be causing this? Could it be related to why the high beams used to shut off before I replaced the wiring harness? A while back I asked about the shutting off issue on a number of Jeep boards but nobody had heard of this particular problem before.
Thanks for the info and sorry it took so long to get back. The check engine light went off but it came back on yesterday so I got the codes read again. Guy's machine read 4 codes but said they were all the same code...P0430. I'm game for the lacquer thinner option I've been hearing about. I see low voc lacquer thinner for sale. Wonder if it matters which version you use?
What's a good long lasting tire dressing? I used to use this stuff called Wipe New - Tires but it's since been discontinued. There was a process. First you soaped and scrub cleaned the tire, then let dry. Then you don a 3M chemical filter cartridge mask, because no joke this stuff was noxious, then you applied just a teeny bit to the provided sponge and applied to the tire. Go around doing all 4 then then come back and do it again. The black lasted for a good long while...couple months before you had to do it again. Is there anything like this still out there on the market?
2011 Crown Vic here with 305k miles, and today my engine light comes on. Scan at the local Advanced comes up with 4 codes on the cat converter. Guy says I need to get something called Cataclean and run it through the gas tank to correct the problem. Is it worth doing this...will it make the engine run better or get better gas mileage? Should I use Cataclean or some other product to get this done?
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