Any update on this project? I'm working on something similar but I never thought of using the knob to switch cameras. I have a dash cam mirror that I'm going to install soon but I'm going to use the rear camera as a trailer camera for when I tow my enclosed trailer. I've been trying to figure out how to incorporate a front camera into this setup as well. Can you send me some links to the equipment and cables you are using? I'm not super knowledgable about electronics so even finding the right four pin cable to extend the camera reach to the back of my trailer has been difficult! lol
Anybody add a second monitor inside their cab? I'm wanting to mount one to use for a front camera and trailer camera but I'm unsure where the best place to mount it would be. Seems like the window mounts would obstruct my vision a bit but I don't know if there's a better option.
Do you have any pictures of your monitor setup? I am thinking about doing something similar for a front camera and a trailer camera but I'm unsure of how/where to mount the monitor.
Sorry, didn't see you said OTD. I was talking about before TTL. MSRP was a little over $53K and I got it down to 41K plus running boards. They even had to transfer the truck from a different dealer 150 miles away.
I used the passenger side fuse panel. F23 for Accessory and F46 for battery and it works great.IMG_1588.HEIC
I think the easiest/least invasive option is to just run the wires along the headliner over to the passenger side fuse box and use a fuse tap to get power. That's what I did for my Blackvue cam with power magic pro.
I got my tonneau cover from truckalterations.com. They advertise on their home page that they will negotiate on price if you email or call them. I sent an email asking for their best price and they knocked off 20% and gave me free shipping.
I feel like the various discount codes are mostly a marketing ploy and don’t really do much for you. I bought my truck last month and had employee and military codes but it didn’t seem to matter. I think the pricing is just smoke and mirrors. If they give you money somewhere, you’ll lose it somewhere else and end up at the same final number.
I don't know too much about engines but I am interested in doing this install. Can you advise me on the advantages of the UPR vs the JLT version? I see the that the JLT one is much smaller. Does that matter? Also, is it worth it to pay the extra $150 for the UPR dual valve version vs the single valve one?
I've debating if I'm going to do it or not. Apparently it just 3M tapes onto your door. I also heard that you can't replace the battery...you just buy a new one. I'm not sure if that was 100% confirmed or not though. I'm going to find out if it will fit inside the gas tank door and if it has enough range to connect to the truck from there. If so, I will probably do it.
I have a Blackvue DR750 2CH and haven't had any interference after running it through the headliner. I stored the excess cable behind the cover for the rear seatbelt.
I did the firmware update right when installed it. I’m not sure what the issue was but I drove it yesterday and everything has been working as it should since then.
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