Doesn't fit, l86 throttle body bolt pattern is larger.
You won't always see the milkyness on the filler neck. Your absolute best way of checking is to pull the valve cover. If you were about to pull the pan and front cover for the pump and o-ring, just pulling the valve covers should be no concern. Another bonus is you can use the handle end of a hammer and push on the rockers one by one on the side of the pushrod and see if it goes down. This would mean you have a weak lifter. If you are bold enough, you can then run the engine with the valve covers off (it's not difficult, just plug in the coil pack connector and secure the coil bracket up a little bit with a bungy cord) and with the engine running you can push on the rocker arm one by one and see if you can locate the ticking lifter. It will get quiet when you put pressure on it. It's a small task to get it checked out. a small amount of coolant could cause your issue as well as what has been mentioned in previous posts. Just throwing out my opinion, not telling you what to do, just tossing out some ideas to pinpoint the root cause of your noise.
If you are doing the pickup tube, then the pan will be off and you will be able to see any type of debris, so that would be a plus. Also, the high volume pump could be beneficial if the lifters are just weak as it will keep a higher supply of oil through them. Just make sure there's no coolant in there because that could end up wiping out bearings and turn a somewhat minor issue into a huge one.
I don't think the oil pump o-ring is your issue. I worked a t a dealership for 15 years and just recently switched to a performance shop. I had trucks coming in all of the time with lifter / cam / head issues. Not saying the pump o-ring is not the cause, but i don't think so in your case. Most often I found the right cylinder head had the leakage first. You will find a "706" at the edge of the cylinder head. Those are the main problem heads. On the underside of your oil cap, see if there is any milky color on it. Final check would be to pull the valve cover and look for clean spots near the head bolts. If found, you are getting coolant into your oil from that area. That flush may have done away with you seeing any of this. The coolant in through the head is a super common issue. So is a failed lifter just because it wants to and lastly, the roller on a lifter could be chunked up and you will have camshaft damage at that point as well. Now, the reason i asked about oil pressure cold vs hot was to see if possibly you have a cam bearing issue but that doesn't seem to be the case. You said you replaced the 2 lifters for #1 cylinder? So, you pulled the one head off and replaced just the 2 lifters? Rocker arm trunion failures are rare on your 5.3. That can be seen with a basic visual with the valve covers removed. The rocker will be a little crooked looking and then when you look closer, you will see that it's missing the cap on the side. Again, easy visual. Not trying to tell you that you are doing anything wrong, i mean preventative maintenance with a new oil pump is not a bad idea anyway, but just trying to help you pinpoint a "fix" for your issue.
Have you done any diagnosis on this ? Have you checked your coolant level to make sure it's not going into the engine through the heads? Is it a constant tick? Only when warm? Whats your oil pressure reading when cold / when hot?
Last time I was in GM Training, this topic came up. The instructor was 100% certain on the transmission being a GM Trans, however, Allison was obviously paid gobs of money to run their name but Allison wouldn't just allow their name to be used if they didn't feel it was a well built transmission. it is my understanding, Allison was presented the transmission and they went over it and gave their full seal of approval. With that, i would be ok with the new 10 speed. Additional info - It was explained that Allison did not feel a 10 speed was necessary and that is why they did not built it in the first place.
Feels much better, Definitely improved throttle response I don't have before and after dyno results but I may get a chance to borrow a dyno for that test to take place. If so, I would do the 6.2 intake pulls, 5.3 intake pulls followed by another round of 6.2 intake pulls.
Nothing real groundbreaking here, but i did want to inform everyone that the L86 intake manifold does bolt right on to the 2019+ Trucks with the 5.3. I did the swap in my 2018 and loved it, once I bought the 19 I had to do it again and I feel like the 2019 responded to the upgrade even more. I did a quick little video showing the differences in the intake manifold -
6.2L Intake swap. I did it on my truck a few days after buying it and it's a huge gain. I ran one on my 2018 and the 2019, I feel, reacted to it better. Huge difference. I'm working on a youtube video comparing the two intake manifolds. It's a cheap swap and can be done in under an hour.
I refinanced 3 weeks after my deal. GM Financial had me at a ridiculous rate and once i received my first bill I refinanced to 3%. They pulled a shady move at financing so I have no regrets on the refinance. They want you to pay the bill for 6 months so GM Financial gets their money back from the rebate and the dealer makes their kickback.
This topic has taken itself to 2 different directions, i'm curious on the center console (complete console, not a lid) which I believe Hawks had ordered. Have you gotten anywhere on that? I reached out to BPIRKOLA about a week and a half ago to get just the base console assembly on order and it was on backorder. I need to communicate with him on other parts but I wanted to see if Anyone has gotten anywhere with a full console swap.
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