I just looked at my PCU/ECU and I can get it unhooked in about 30 seconds with a little practice. Does no good to bolt the PCU/ECU on as you can just connect a new one and let it hang there. I did put a zip tie on the top connector but that won't slow them down much. Going to put in a kill switch.
Sorry to keep replying to myself but wanted to add more data. 1. Stock = 2.5" rake 2. Rear drop shackles = level 3. Add air bags = 3/4" rake I was doing some other stuff to the truck and thought I would see if there was anything available on the stock torsion keys to get back to level. Sure enough, I got 3/4" lift with about 2 turns on the stock key bolt. I took it for a test drive expecting it to be rougher than before but it was actually better. I guess after 5 years, the torsion bars might have needed some tightening. So I am happy with this setup. 3/4" front lift with a few turns on the stock torsion keys. Drop shackle in the rear with airbags. Now I need to find something else to futz with.
After driving it around for a while with the drop shackle level, I like the look of the front end lift much better. But the rear end lower is more practical for me right now. We are looking at 5th wheels and lowering the rear and adding bags provides better clearance. And it sure is easier to get in the bed with it lowered.
The Grabber ATX's seem fine. Like all things, the AT aspect is a trade off. It feels like a truck. It doesn't drive like it's on rails like our BMWs. They aren't too noisy. They'll work. I think when these wear out I may look at 20" rims.
Wanted to see what the front end geometry does if I decide to level the truck. Stock has a pretty good rake and it takes 2.25" of front lift to level the truck. I also looked at an intermediate level of 1 3/8". Here's the pics: Stock, 1 3/8" lift, 2.25" lift To my eye, level looks best. But I would have to bag it for towing. I'm ok with that. Now let's look at the front end to see if I can just crank the torsion keys to level it, or if I need more. (stock, 1 3/8", 2.25") Dang, anyone who just levels it with a new torsion key is really doggin' the UCA and the drive shaft. If I went full level, I would do a diff drop and get new UCAs. But I think that intermediate position @ 1 3/8" is OK. It improves the look a bit, I shouldn't need bags for towing and the suspension bits look OK. I have the torsion keys on the way so I think I will do just over an inch with them and check things out. If I want to go full level, I will add the diff drop, new UCAs and bag the rear end (adding $800 to the bill). Would appreciate any thoughts from the collective FR experience. Corn
That looks really good. I have a white truck with black wheels and nerfs and I have been searching for what to do with the rest of the truck. Going to order some black emblems today and go your route. Thanks for posting!
Hello! New member and very happy to be part of the HD crowd. I towed travel trailers for years with a 2005 Tundra and then a 2008 Tundra and always had them maxed out due to payload limits. Been without a truck since 2016 and felt it was time. Decided that this time around it would be HD. Didn't have brand preference and gas is fine. The weird part of my search was almost all the used trucks are white. Anyway, ended up finding a 2015 2500HD WT with 52,000 miles. It was just down the road and in immaculate condition. The WT configuration is perfect. Has everything I need and nothing I don't. It does have a cloth interior which was a requirement. Now I can start looking at travel trailers and not worry as much about maxing out the payload. First mod will be a bed cover. Probably Truxedo or the like. And a bed mat.
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