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About JunkyardJameson

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  1. Absolutely willing to try anything at this point. I'll do it as soon as I have time, and get back. No CEL with the first PCM. The code was checked with a cheap OBD2 scanner. However, when it was at the shops they used more advanced scanners and reported no codes. That was pre-PCM swap though.
  2. It won't occur at if it has just been idling, only when it has been driven and stopped to an idle. The truck runs great on cold start, and even when it warm occasionally. Yeah, I'm not completely sure... it was just an assumption based on what the code said.
  3. MAF was replaced with the throttle body, forgot to add that to the list. I'm probably missing some more stuff too. RPMs are erratic I wasn't touching the throttle during the videos. Check engine light is on, when I replaced the ECM it threw a code for Crank Position Sensor Calibration (Or something along those lines) and the same issues persisted. I'm assuming the new ECM needs to relearn the crank position?, it just hasn't had a chance to.
  4. Iv'e read about this "Vaporlocking" issue but find it hard to believe. The issue started suddenly, along with the fact sufficient fuel pressure is present... & no vapor is being released from the schrader valve when opened. I also tested this theory by placing ice and water on the fuel rails, the rails were ice cold to the touch and the car still wouldn't start. Or maybe I am completely misunderstanding vaporlock. Aprox. 180k miles Parts Replaced: 1. Throttle Body (Guess) 2. VVT Components (Guess) 3. Crankshaft Sensor (Inconsistent readings) 4. ECM (Guess) 5. Fuel pump (Shop diagnosis) 6. Ignition Switch (Guess) 7. Alternator (Alternator tested bad by shop) 8. Battery (Battery tested bad) 9. Battery Cables (Shop recommendation) 10. Various Harness Connectors (Inconsistent readings) See above for replaced parts. Some parts were just replaced, others tested and failed. The car has been to 3 shops including the dealer, every single one had there own diagnosis... parts were replaced, and the issue still persists. If I don't touch the traction control button the car won't start until the engine cools down, and doesn't even sound like it wants to start. When I fiddle with the traction control button it will start to spudder slightly. I was just messing with anything I possibly could when it wouldn't start... lucky guess?
  5. 2007 GMC Yukon XL Denali 6.2L, stalls and won't restart when warm. Conditions & Symptoms 1. Car is warm (Aprox. 15 minutes of driving) 2. Typically won't restart without struggle until cooled down (Anywhere from 15-30 minutes) 3. Trans temps are anywhere from 136-150 Degrees when it occurs. 4. It will only stall when coming to a stop, & can be kept running if it is revved. I can replicate the issue after I get it restarted by moving the car in reverse 6 feet, then move it in drive 6 feet. Once I come to a stop the engine starts to run awful and bogs. Occasionally it will die when bogging, and other times it will stay running. However, if I cycle the traction control off/on it will die. If I rev the engine while the bogging is present, it will settle and run great & cycling the traction control has no affect. If I shut the engine off, it will turn on without issue. If I let it die, it won't restart. If it bogs and dies it is a struggle to get it restarted while warm. It will typically only restart in neutral, I place it in neutral, turn traction control off, crank it, while it is cranking I continually press the traction control button, repeat the steps and it will eventually start. It takes anywhere from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of doing this. Once it starts it runs fantastic until I put it in reverse/drive like I stated previously. EDIT: I also think its worthy to note that when trying to remote start it won't even attempt, I just get a slight click. The dome lights also don't work when the door is opened. And at one point the key chime wasn't working. A lot of parts have already been replaced in attempt to fix this issue. Looking for some input on what could be causing this.
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