I think it is a mistake to put a 180 thermostat in it (perhaps things have changed, but it certainly caused problems when it did it in the 90s). My understanding is that the computer thinks the vehicle is not warmed up properly and runs a bit rich, which eventually causes O2 sensor and catalytic converter issues. In my case, I had to replace both (after putting the proper thermostat in). You indicate the temps are running normal, so perhaps the 2001 rigs don't have that issue. I have a OBDLINK MX bluetooth and the software to connect to on my phone that I run sometimes to watch things like temps and such. One of my daughters had issue with her truck and the oil pressure sending unit. The engine died in freeway traffic a number of times before she replaced it in the parking lot of OReilly's auto parts.
What is your expectation for T/H? When I engage T/H, the light turns on, but it does not "shift into T/H". It does hold gears longer (higher rpms before shifting) so hopefully that is what you meant.
Looking forward to hearing how this turns out... BlackBear tune is on my wishlist..
or just go ahead and buy it, return if it does not work.. https://smile.amazon.com/Chamberlain-car2u-Car-Reapeater-Kit/dp/B00K8IZ9AA/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GTXQH4QT0A4P1XAB21SC
My wife's 2012 Tahoe would not work with our Chamberlain opener, finally got it going by purchasing this from Amazon. Car 2 U Repeater Kit by Chamberlain Apparently, there are two different (maybe more) standards and GM chose Car 2 U...
I was pondering this and decided if I get one of these, I'll take out both fill plugs (new one on back and original). I will fill using the one on the back until fluid comes out of the original. Reinstall both plugs, done.
Block heater has a thermostat in cord that does not trip until 0F, so you can plug it in, but it will not do anything unless it is colder than 0F. This is done because of the diagnostics checking ambient and coolant temps after being off for xx hours. If a sensor fails, the temps are different and it sets a code expecting one of the sensors is bad. So rather than figure out how to bypass when block heater used, they made it so it doesn't work unless it is really cold. I have never had an issue starting down to -10F with my 2011 6.0 gas.
I noticed water running out of the bottom of the driver side back door when we stopped for lunch Sunday. We had some rain Saturday night, I am guessing door window seal let a bunch of rain in? Anyone else have this happen? Are there drain holes I need to make are clear? Do the door window seals normally leak some? Thanks
Unless they completely changed the design, the floor shift is for the transfer case, but the actuator at the front diff is electrical. There is a switch that gets activated by the floor shift when you shift transfer case into 4wd. On my 94 pickup, the indicator light was on the floor (part of the trim for the shift lever). Move it to 4wd, light comes on when actuator is energized... It was easy to mod to get 2wd low range by putting switch in actuator wire so you chose when front axle is being driven. Not so easy on more current models for that mod. You likely have a bad wire or switch... perhaps a blown fuse.
Gale Banks is doing some testing of aftermarket diff covers. I saw part 2 video on facebook, the results will be shared in part 3 coming soon. It was interesting that having too much oil actually caused hotter temps. I am going to put Lucas synthetic in when I change mine this winter and keep stock cover.
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