Yeah if you live close enough to Bonmin that would be worth a try, but in my case I'm a good 850 miles away, so the drive with the threat of having to walk wouldn't make sense. That would be a heck of a road trip to come home empty handed.
I just recently bought from Modern in Winston-Salem. They were very aggressive on price and won my business this time. In the past I have priced with Randy Marion as well, and at least in my experience, I would have to agree with jlong. They had tons of add on's and made what appeared to be a good deal not so good in the end. As far as Bonmin in Florida is concerned, look at their online reviews. No personal experience, but their reputation for schemes is well commented on when reading on Google, Cars.com, etc. reviews.
Add me to the list who have done this mod. Totally gives the truck a different look. I used the domed gloss black from BD. Instead of ordering on Amazon, I ordered directly from the company. They were a little less expensive, plus I think the letters on Amazon are the flat ones. Also, a heads up in case you decide to do this. The "H" and the "O" are cut so they only fit one way. May sure you dry fit them before you stick everything down.
Foghorn19 added images to a gallery album in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
So had to do the dad thing and go move some things for my son who is a sophomore in college. Drive was 90% at 67 to 72 mph. Last 15 miles or so was a 55 mph zone (when pic was taken) entering Raleigh. I always take it easy there as lots of blue potential blue lights are always near. Tough to beat these GM V8's on mpg in the real world; she's not even broken in with less than 400 miles.
Not the case with any leasing company I've dealt with. GAP is built into the lease. It is true that any down payment you put into a lease would be lost if you drove it off the lot and totaled it. That is the reason to put as little as possible ($0) down on a lease. On the other hand, if you buy, finance and don't pay extra for GAP you can be on the hook for the difference in what you owe vs the insurance value of the vehicle if you total it early on in a purchase contract. As stated your circumstances dictate which is a better option for you personally.
Lease was coming up on my 2017 GMC and the deals were too good over the Labor Day Holiday......so. I came home with a new truck. I bought this about a week ago, but have been so busy I hadn't had the opportunity to take any pix. Been here way too long to post about a new truck and not have pix so better late than never.
A casual read of the Ford forums about the oil consumption and long block replacements on the '18 5.0 engines would give me considerable pause on buying the Ford. Not being brand loyal, if the truck was one of the ecoboost engines (I can't believe I'm saying this) you'd probably have a better shot at reliability than the 2018 5.0. Here's a few to get you started. Hopefully Ford gets the issues with their 5.0 ironed out. 5.0 oil consumption 5.0 deceleration rattle 5.0 acceleration whistle
I didn't sleep at Holiday Inn last night, but you are absolutely correct. Look at the finance contract. If it is simple interest with no prepayment penalty, you can pay that sucker off ANYTIME you choose. I know this is going to be hard to believe, but some dealers will LIE and tell you 1 month, 3 months, 6 months, etc. Remember, any time a dealer employee's lips are moving, more than likely he/she is lying. Unless there's something in writing to the contrary, finance it and pay it off the next day.
As stated---PDR. When you get a good paintless dent repair guy, make friends with him and keep his contact info in your contacts. When you see the magic they can perform it doesn't make parking lot dings on nice vehicles nearly as stressful. My guy usually will usually fix me up for around $60 to pop a dent. Great money for him as its usually only 5 minutes (if that) of work for him, but what would $60 get me at a body shop? You will not be able to see the slightest indication of a dent when he's done.
The Ram guys seem to think it involves the blend of the HVAC. Some of them are using home plumbing materials to reroute coolant in essence blocking off or restricting coolant flow to the heater core. Those who have done it claim their air is much colder somewhere to the tune of 20 degrees.
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