swhitney2003 replied to rickg gmparts's topic in 6.6L Gas V8 & HD Transmission Powertrain (L8T/MYD)my fuel, battery, coolant, and oil pressure analog gauges all do not match the digital gauges on my phone using Torque app with obdii dongle. I've had 90% of fuel on digital, but analog still on Full. I've gotten used to this over the years with multiple vehicles, and with the advent of fuel range readout I just use that instead. coolant is probably worst offender and this isn't the only gm vehicle I've seen it on, I think it's typical of all of them going back decades. warming up I'll see 130 digital but analog is already past 160. running temp is 195 but analog is 210. I don't see the point of putting numbers or tick marks on analog gauges if both are inaccurate.
As far as I know I only have 2 speakers in my 2 door truck, 1 in each door. the sound quality is abysmal. I'm not expecting fantastic audio from a stock WT, but it is truly awful. ive done plenty of audio stuff in my life, but for this I just want something to get me by. my days of 1000W+ systems in a 2 door truck are long gone. I don't want to be adding locs or an amp, even tho wiring is no issue to me. has anyone replaced just the speakers, powered by factory head unit? I suspect new speakers will sound equally crappy... part of me suspects the EQ of the head unit is tuned for the expectations of crap speakers. I've got speaker grills in the dash. if components can be done in doors and dash I'd contemplate that route.... again, no amp. currently have the bass maxed out on factory head unit. I'm no bass junky as I like my tunes neutral, it's just lacking that much. hoping I can get a definitive answer if just speakers make a marked improvement or if it's a waste of money for placebo effect.
tried to go to next spline position, but it positions the blade to go into the frit area at full swipe. this isn't necessarily bad, but it was came close to edge of glass. add any winter snow packing and it might be more of a problem. also sat a little high from driver POV when in rested position (higher than ssowie picture) . returned it to where it was from factory. figure I'd rather hide it behind dash more instead of swiping more.
doesn't seem like my driver side wiper goes all the way to edge of windshield. I'd expect the angle to at least be parallel to A pillar at full stroke. this normal or do I need to make a dealer visit? truck has less than 200 miles on it.
You might want to check the add-a-circuit fuse holder on what it is rated for. I thought that most of them were rated for 10 amps TOTAL. Not sure I would feel comfortable having a maximum of 40 amps potentially running through it.
What makes some trucks have the selector switch on the left side of the steering column? Mine is on the right side, thus I have no issues with it and the head light knob. I would be interested as well, but will definitely not pay $90 for it. I'm more apt to purchase the necessary components myself and do the work.
On my '98 Silverado the mounting surface below the sensor began to corrode, causing the sensor to lift. It only lifted like a millimeter, but enough that the sensors would have issues reading. I never had an ABS light go on, but I had issues at stopping speed where my ABS would go off (pulsating pedal). This was because my front sensors could not get a good reading, didn't match with the rear wheel speed, thus a time ABS should engage. I used a wire brush to clean up the mounting surfaces, worked like a charm! Before doing this I put in a paper towel to the hole to plug it up so debris wouldn't go inside it.
H-11 SilverStar were just released in the past month or so. H-11 SilverStar Ultras do not exist. I just got hired at Osram Sylvania and asked one of the engineers about it, and that is what he told me. I was running the Xtra-vision before but put the SilverStar H11 in, big difference. I would definitely go the SS route over the H9. I'm curious if the additional heat generated by the H9 would be bad for the reflector housing/cutoff shield.
http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/sylvani...p;FigNumber=129 Not sure where you found the 600-800 hours for an H9 Bulb. Sylvania says their standard halogen H9 is 120 hours of life expectancy. I was thinking about doing the conversion/mod until I found out the expectancy was not so great. http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/A...alogenProducts/ If you click more info on any of these bulbs it should give more detailed specs
I'm glad I did the DIC upgrade. I like having access to all the information at the touch of a button. Remaining miles is useful for me as I drive across the country and like having something to help time my fuel stop on the NY thruway.
Not sure if this pertains to your vehicle or not: Parking Brake Cable Adjuster Enabling If the park brake automatic adjuster has been disabled, the following two person procedure must be performed. -Hold the park brake pedal in the FULL upward position. -Pull rearward on the front park brake cable until the tension is released from the scribe or nail (1) installed through the holes in the pedal assembly. -Remove the scribe or screwdriver (1). -Slowly release the park brake cable until it returns to its original position. -Release the park brake pedal. -Lower the vehicle. -Apply and release the park brake pedal to ensure that there is no binding or sticking.
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