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rdnckhntr94

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rdnckhntr94 last won the day on August 19 2017

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About rdnckhntr94

  • Birthday 05/25/1994

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  • Name
    CJ
  • Location
    Northern VA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Expensive Hobbies
  • Drives
    '14 Silverado CC short bed High Country 5.3L

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  1. Also seems like the Vertex are not rebuildable. Definitely a huge con. May just be worth it to go with the Fox coilovers so I can rebuild them in the future when they wear out. Truck already has 172k on it but I plan on keeping it for a while still. Decisions, decisions...
  2. It looks like the Vertex coilovers come with a 3 year warranty and the Fox only come with a 1 year warranty. Seems like another win for the Vertex, although I don't see either of them failing within 5 years of install. Really leaning towards the Vertex at $1300 compared to the Fox at $2200 (cheapest I've found them so far.) Hopefully someone here has some insight into both of them and pro/ cons of each. Really looking for the best on road ride and street manners (without reaching too far into the pocketbook lol)
  3. Curious what everyone's opinion is on the different brands of 2.5" coilovers for the K2 trucks. Truck is currently setting on a BDS 6" lift with the rear leafs and Fox 2.0 rear shocks. The front shock/ strut is the standard one from BDS. I've never loved the way it has rode and I'm looking at possibly upgrading by the end of the year. I've been eyeing the RC Vertex coilovers and the Fox 2.5 Factory Series coilovers. Naturally the Fox coilovers are what are offered through BDS as an upgrade when you purchase the lift. Between those two (or if there are other options available such as King, Icon, etc.) which would you pick and why? The price point on the RC Vertex coilovers is a huge plus, so is it worth the extra coin to go with the Fox coilovers? They would match the rear shocks I have, but I'm not terribly worried about that. Truck is mainly a pavement princess. Only time she sees dirt roads is when I go shooting over at the farm, and gravel roads are also not very common for me. Just looking to improve the on road ride of this thing.
  4. Turns out I do have NTK downstream sensors (I even had mentioned that earlier in this thread, completely forgot about it.) I just ordered up two GM Genuine Parts O2 sensors from Advance Auto that will be here sometime today (gotta love same day delivery!) for a little more than $60 for both (20% discount plus $20 off SpeedPerks coupon). Not saying this will solve the issue, but for $60 it's worth a shot before dropping big bucks on a new Y-pipe assembly. I looked into transferring to another address in a jurisdiction that does not require emissions. Unfortunately since my tags are already dead, and it is currently registered in a county that requires emissions, I would have to pass the emissions inspection before I could even register it elsewhere. Or maybe I'm just reading the VA DMV rules incorrectly. Who knows. But this is affecting how the truck drives somewhat, so I do want to get it resolved one way or another. New Y-pipe assembly will cost me about $1550 (core charge included) to purchase. I cannot return my current Y-pipe for core unfortunately since the factory cats have been cut out and replaced. I will continue to update this thread until I figure out the solution.
  5. Will have to see if any of my sensors are NTK branded. Pretty sure my upstreams are Denso sensors, cannot recall what the downstream sensors are though.
  6. That’s exactly how it started. CEL came on and was flashing and the truck stuttered and slammed back into gear real violently, then CEL went solid. It did it intermittently for about 100 miles/ 2 days until I had a chance to diagnose it. Confirmed it had a bad upstream O2 sensor. Replaced and the code for sensor went away but the p0420 stayed and eventually a p0430 showed up within a couple months. Thats when I took it to the shop and had them replace both catalytic converters with Magnaflow ones. Codes persisted and shop said it was O2 sensors. So they replaced all four sensors and codes came back shortly after leaving the shop. After that is when I took it to the dealership.
  7. Yeah I can undo my battery for about 30min and it does a full reset of the ECM and the codes will go away for a day or two but come back. Goodluck on your diagnosis, I’m getting tired of spending money on this thing. If it doesn’t pass through one of those rapidpass units then I’ll just register it in a different county that doesn’t have emissions.
  8. Yeah I’ve watched quite a few of his videos and he really seems to know his stuff. It may be worth it but that’s a decent drive from where I’m at. Here in VA for emissions testing they have roadside emissions equipment where you drive by it and it will pass or fail your vehicle if it gets a good reading, it’s called RapidPASS. They’ll have one in my area early next week so I’m going to drive by it a few times and give it a week and check to see if I pass or not. If you pass you can then proceed to renew your plates through the DMV. Interesting system so I’m hoping the truck at least passes that so I can quit riding around on dead tags for now at least.
  9. Essentially they want the truck back to OEM before proceeding with diagnosis. It may very well be the aftermarket (Magnaflow) cats still causing issues for me. I won’t know though until I purchase a new OEM y-pipe and install it. If it fixes it, then I could contact Magnaflow and request a refund since they claim to have a warranty that the parts are guaranteed for your vehicle to pass emissions or your money back. Been looking around online at the OEM part and they’re all roughly the same price, seeing if there’s anywhere close enough where I could just pick it up and save the freight since that seems to be where I’m not saving money compared to ordering locally from a dealership.
  10. Dealership told me the aftermarket cats weren’t performing as well as OEM cats. Haven’t replaced them yet just because of the money it costs. They told me they couldn’t proceed with the diagnosis until I replaced them with the OEM cats. So either it’s the cats or it could possibly be something else.
  11. Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealership this afternoon. I had checked all the traces for all 4 oxygen sensors from the ECM and fuse block and all of them had continuity and only about 0.1 ohms of resistance max, so that indicates to me that all the wiring for them is fine. My best guess is either some of the new oxygen sensors are just no good or the ECM has something going on internally. I’m expecting it to be the latter of the two. Hopefully I’ll get a call about it tomorrow sometime!
  12. I was wondering if my ECM flaked out as well. That thought has always been in the back of my head ever since these issues started. Any idea what it would cost for a new one? I'm sure the programming portion is the most expensive part. I'm wondering if a bad ground could cause an odd issue like this. But you would figure a bad ground would cause all sorts of issues and not just an emissions issue. If they cannot figure it out, I'm sure the stealership can. No doubt this is a tough issue to diagnose. I've been trying to keep cool, but I don't think this shop is actually going through an extensive list and diagnosing each system accordingly. Seems like they're just going off of probable cause and acting off of that.
  13. For anyone looking for this info in the future, here's the part number of what actually comes with the lift. You have to call BDS directly and they are not super expensive (less than $40 a piece). Part # is BDS081602. It fits the 2014-2018 GM 1500 4-6" lifts. The 8" lifts require a different part number. The part number provided was not on the the order by part number section of their website hence the reason you need to call in and order it. Hope this helps someone out there!
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