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Showing results for tags '1500'.
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So my problem started with my right rear door staying ajar, it would happen every now and then and then go away. When it would happen I'm unable to power the rear right window with both switches. Then it started with both rear doors staying ajar and loosing all power to the switches. Then it stayed like that. Recently I've done work on the truck causing me to unplug the battery. now The ajar light is gone but the door switch doesn't register when the both rear doors are open or closed. Not sure what's wrong but I checked each boot and it all seems good. What should I do next? -
I have a 2022 trail boss lt that has about 6100 mile on it now. Bought it brand new in may 2022 and it seems like the drivers seat leans to the left towards the door. Almost feels like Im gonna fall out of it and no matter how I adjust it it seems the same. Visually it looks like it sits level and is fine. Is it possible something is broken inside like the frame? I would assume the frame would have to be sturdy. Is there any place that sell a better bottom cushion? -
I have a 2022 Silverado 1500 four-wheel-drive. The dealer ordered the 2 inch lift kit they offer and I’m waiting for it to come in and have it installed. But I noticed that the kit doesn’t come with upper control arms. Is that going to be a problem? (***UPDATE*** ) so I had the factory lift gm offers installed. When I picked it up, it looked great but as soon as I went to drive it off the lot. I could tell something was wrong it felt completely different. I figured it was just a break in period. But even after a day or two, I was getting crazy bad vibration at low speeds. Took it back. They ended up putting one of the U-bolts on wrong (I have pictures if wanted) they fix that and told me the vibration was gone. I get my keys go to drive away vibrations right back. I turn right back around. this time they have a mechanic ride with me. He clearly hears an feels a vibration, says somethings wrong so we turned around and he takes it back in. Three hours later they bring my truck back they had to remove the back blocks said there was no taper to them and it was messing up drive line. I got it back and the vibration is still there. (Now annoyed that only the front is lifted and still vibrating). I have them take the whole lift kit off. Put it back to stock. (Now remind you my truck has been down and I’m missing work for 5 days at this point) And after that Whole ordeal, I was done with the truck since I couldn’t have it how I wanted it and decided to trade it in and they made me a good deal on a 2023 5.3 LT.z71 I know many have gotten this lift installed said it worked out for some reason it did not for me. I’m much happier with the new truck.- 8 replies
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Hello all, My Sway bar was hitting my CV axle, as the title says. So I crawled under some trucks at the dealer to see what stock trucks are like and it turns out that the new TB/AT4's have longer end links then my 2020 TB. The new end link has a 3 inch rod vs the 1-3/4 inch OE part. The part number for the longer end link is P/N:85590925
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Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle. The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care. The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else. Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance! IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4 -
I recently bought a Sierra 1500 Denali because I love this truck but I am now noticing parts are really hard to find, I want to replace or delete my quad steer but have no idea where to start or look. I haven't been able to find anything in hours. Any help?
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Does anyone have experience with belltech lift kits? I've seen plenty of positive reviews from their lowering kits. They've been in the suspension industry for a while, just not so much the trail or lift side. Long travel is the end goal, but a $700 coilover kit with a 5 yr warranty vs an extended strut sounds more functional. I'm considering the adjustable 3-4" lift coilovers, part #15203. -Helper spring -60mm damper body -35mm independent valves -20mm piston rod I've got a 2020 z71 with the 3.0 Duramax for those needing an image to work with. Still exploring UCA options. 35*12.5r17 will be the tire size. Probably going to order them next month.
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Got a 07 Silverado 1500 classic crew cab with the short bed 5.8ft. Need to replace my bed but having trouble finding another short bed. does anyone know if I could put the regular 6ft bed on and will the wheel wheel/fuel filler neck, and bolts line up? thank you
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A few weeks ago my Left Rear Turn Indicator Failure light came on and my taillight got really dim. Then a few days ago my right tail light did the same thing. The right tail light is not as dim but does the same rapid blinking and both failures come up on the dashboard. Any suggestions of things to test out? I have not been able to find any youtube videos or forums that are very recent. Thank you. -
What suggestions or advice is available for buying a GMC | Chevy truck? What should I watch out for -- the GOOD and BAD? I want to come back to the GMC | Chevy family. For over 20 years, we owned a 98 GMC Suburban, putting over 230k miles on it myself, and I LOVED that truck. Other than typical wear and tear -- I never had any problems or issues with my Suburban. I am looking at 2016-2022 -- GMC | Chevy 1500 | 2500 series, all trims (4x4), except the base models. My budget is around $35k plus'ish; yes, I understand my budget limits what I can get. I am a USAF retired veteran living off a fixed income. Yes, we tow hitch pull RVs and various trailers, but not as often as before. What are the GOOD, BAD, and UGLY these days on the GMC | Chevy trucks? Is the additional price for either diesel and/or 2500 worth it? SHORT STORY: so, a few years ago, I bought a 2015 Ram 1500 4x4 EcoDiesel 6cyl w/turbo Lonestar -- well, I have been disappointed with Chrysler | Fiat (FCA). They lied about the EcoDiesel, and after forced recall ECM updates, they sucked all performance and mpg from the truck. Buying a newish GMC | Chevy, I do not want to fall into what happened with my 2015 Ram. When I had my suburban, I never had so many recalls, been lied to, and never had poor performance. Thanks for any suggestions that you will provide -- Gary (ExFalconFxr) -
I recently purchased a 2013 Silverado 1500 LTZ 5.3 crew cab and am averaging 13.6mpg. I understand it's a truck, but I figured it wouldnt be that terrible. I use cruise control and coast as much as possible, but still have the poor mileage. It has 117,000 miles on it. I have 33x12R20LT Trac Grip M/T Thunderer tires and XD series wheels. I feel like I should be getting better gas mileage than this. Suggestions? -
Got my full console from Ebay used in like new condition. I did alot of research to figure out how to wire it so all the functions would work. I.e. wireless phone charger and usb/ cigarette liter ports for the rear passenger. I have a currently have a 22 2.7l Custom that doesn't have the required connection under the front passenger seat. After hours of looking at schematics and testing wires, I managed to hard wire my center console to the fuse box on the passenger side. Wire on the CC harness to Fuse box Both Red/white to F5 (Battery positive) Violet to F20 (Accessory on) Violet/yellow to F23 (Accessory on) BOTH Black to Ground below the Fuse box. The only section I wasn't able to get working yet is the USB in the middle of the console (the one with the map SD card). This one I believe needs to be connected to the radio that has the built in navigation. (once I get one I'll update this post.
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I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks. I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it. All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it. I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me. I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced. freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings. the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash. body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago. The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise. what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion? living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone. will either be driving to get one or having shipped. somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year. of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks. I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still. I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot. gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps. I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing. the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory. the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08. the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one. suspension parts I just say 06 on. half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise. I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up. I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing. sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given
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Hello , new to the group thanks so sorry if I’m posting to wrong group or if question has been asked before. My issue is that I bought a ‘15 1500 WT 5.3L that had around 350k with lazy #7 cylinder. So I bought used motor with around 100k from a ‘15 gmc 1500. Swapped motors out and when I went to start up I don’t get any crank, No gauges work, service error lights all come on. I’ve checked to make sure grounds are clean and tight, checked fuses inside cab and in engine bay, battery tests good, getting codes U0100 and U0102 and I’ve also installed new: -Engine Harness (found some splits on harness that came with motor so bought new one) -Computer (also have the original and one that came with the motor and I’ve tried swapping all 3 to see if that worked) -Relay panel in engine compartment Just seeing if anyone has any fix’s or tricks. Thanks
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I'm looking to do a full interior swap/update on my '99 silverado, don't know much about interior fabrication but i'm going to do what I have to in order to make it work. For now I plan on taking everything I can out of a part-out silverado from 2014 or newer and throwing it straight into my truck. If anybody has any tips or prior knowledge from a project of the same nature any help would be appreciated. From what I could find, not many people have documented this sort of thing on YouTube and the ones who have only show off the final product instead of the full process or steps they needed to take in order to get what I'm looking for.
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I was wondering if anyone who has this kit can tell me the size of the spacers and sorta how they mount up. I am thinking of drawing up some CAD stuff to make a miniature version of that diff drop brackets I see all the larger lifts running. I think this will be a preferable option. If I do end up doing it, I'll be sure to share some schematics! -
Hey I'm new here and this is my first time ever coming across this problem. I'm working on my 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 because one day coming home from work I couldn't shift back into Park. I replaced the shifter table from the steering column all the way down underneath the truck to the transmission lever. Everything is that it should be I've adjusted the shifter table. I'm able to put the transmission into park manually whenever somebody is in the driver seat pressing down on the brake pedal. I checked the shifter interlock solenoid in the steering column and nothing's hanging everything looks like it's supposed to. And I'm only able to shift out of park into reverse neutral drive D3 and D2. I have no D1 and when I try to sit back in the park the steering column lever goes all the way up into the park position like it's supposed to but the transmission itself won't engage into park and stays in reverse. My next step is to replace the shifter interlock solenoid. I wanted to post this and see if anybody could give me any help in case that wasn't it before I get into that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated -
Hello, I’m thinking about putting a six inch lift from superlift on my 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd, extended cab. My question today is what would be the recommended wheel size (both tire and rim) for this setup and I’d like it to preferably stick out on the side a bit but it’s not needed. I know many run 35” but again I’m not sure.
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To all my haters, continue to hate just want to preface that . Anyway I am looking to get some leveling blocks as my truck is still nosediving. I love the way the 3” blocks look but I have also read that the upper control arms tend to pop out with any blocks bigger than 2”. Does anyone have experience with that happening? Also thinking about just taking out the rear blocks. Or both. Any experience appreciated. Also does anyone know what this does about warranty?
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305 70 17 2 inch spacers front. ordered -38 mm offset wheels pre runner front bumper trimmed inner fender to metal line just ordered a 3 inch rear block lift with new shocks. should be able to pull it off. May throw on a 1.5 inch body lift. not sure how I feel about the NorCal mod. stay tuned!
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2016 Silverado 1500 custom Hopefully they fit. 2 inch leveling kit up front. Pre runner bumper. Rears stock. Got -38 mm wheels coming in. 17x9. Shipped today. should look good. much debated topic I didn’t see anything on the size either. I’ll be that guy. It should fit nicely I’m thinking. It’s a 33.8x12.2r17 ordered today. 11/2
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Hello! I have taken my truck to a couple shops but no one can seem to find what wrong with it. When I come to a stop, my truck acts like it wants to stall out. It doesn't happen all the time but it is becoming more frequent. When stopping, the rpms die, all my gauges drop to zero and all my warning lights flash at me and turn back off. I don't have a check engine light on and when my truck is scanned, there are no codes that come up. I have been told that it is possibly bad torque converter solenoids but I have a weird feeling that I might have some electrical gremlins somewhere. There have been times where I am driving down the road and I go to make sure my windows are rolled up and the gauges due while rolling and my electrics cut out for a second and come back on. There was also once where a truck pulled out down the road from me so I applied the brake to give them room and my truck downshifted hard and jumped to 3500 rpm and felt incredibly sluggish to get back on gas and up to speed. Any help or any direction to a fix is greatly appreciated. Please help me find out what's wrong with my truck! Thank you!
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Infotainment system question
DrBaylor posted a topic in 2019-2023 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshooting
I purchased a 2021 Silverado Z71 in April, and I love it, but an odd quirk with the infotainment system. Each time I get in my truck, with the same cell phone I always carry, I cannot make a voice activated call for up to 5 minutes. The response is always "please wait, I am loading your contacts". Why does the system load my contacts each time I get it the vehicle? Is there any way to have it store the contacts and not upload every time? Is it supposed to do this? -
Hello All, New to this site, just bought a new 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss a few weeks ago. One of the first things I am doing to this truck is upgrading the few halogen bulbs that GM decided to keep on it. The Rear backup and license plate lights all went super smooth, no issue. But when I went to remove the front blinker bulb from the housing I was faced with a different configuration than what I've seen. The place where you would normally find the circular grip for twisting out the bulb has a small hex head there in place, and it does not look to actually come apart (Please see attached picture). I think that I might have a different blinker than what normally comes with this trim (and I think it may already be LED) but I am unable to find anything online that resembles or mentions this configuration. I am only able to find the typical bulb backing which does not match mine. Does anyone have insight to this or possibly know what kind of blinker I have? I have included a picture of the back of the blinker as well as the light housing itself as I think it too looks slightly different than others I have seen. Thanks in advance!
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I am in the process of wiring in my dashcam to my 2008 Sierra 1500 SLT to only be on when the ignition is on. There are no ignition switch fuses in my drivers side fuse box so as I see it I have 2 options : 1). Use one of the ignition switch fuses on under hood fuse box. The ones I have found (according to the manual) are : - Transmission Controls - Airbag System - Misc, Cruise Control - Aux Climate Control - Engine Control Module Can I pick any of these to use as I am using a fuse tap? I was thinking Aux Climate Control. 2). Tap into the RAP relay used for the audio system. However I can't find the relay (not in the manual) and I'm not sure how to tap into this without cutting wires. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have included a photo of my (under hood) fuse box cover if that helps.
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