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So I would like some advice. I want to level my 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab. I am just out of the factory warranty with 38K miles. I was looking at installing a RC 3/2 leveling kit and have been reading many forums talking about how bad these leveling kits are to the suspension. Not just the RC, but any leveling kit. The kit is the 3" spacer between strut and tower with 2" block on rear. Many of the forums are saying the front suspension will wear out within 10K miles of installing. So I wanted to start a thread and get some opinions on some experiences with these kits. Has anyone had issues with these type of kits? What am I to expect in 10K, 15K, 20K miles to change out due to excessive wear from these kits? I know I will need to do an alignment right after install, but how will the truck ride and wear on the tires with these kits? Are they as bad as I have been reading? I read one thread where someone had to spend $6K to completely replace their IFS suspension from this kit. Was this a one off situation or a very good possibility? I want to get ride of that nose down look and give the truck a much better looking stance for a 4x4 truck. So what other options are there to level or give a slight lift to my truck that will cause as little damage down the road as possible to the suspension? I understand there is always risk when altering a suspension, but there must be some other options that do little damage and still allow a lift or level of the truck. Someone mentioned a body lift, but that still leaves the nose down look of the body. Thoughts?

hey everyone, I know I'm probably out of luck on this, but I am wondering just how different the rear frame is between a 2014 1500 and 2500. I am looking at the Ultimate Air Ride kit for the back, but they only have it available for 2500 and 3500. I know the frame is taller, but haven't been able to find how much so. and if there is any difference in the axle tube size of the rear diff. I know there will definitely some modifications to the brackets required, but I'm trying to see if it is feasible to try to adapt their kit or if it isn't worth it. or if anyone knows of something similar, not like the Air Lift load leveling kits, for the 1500's. I love having my truck lifted, but it would be nice to make loading my bikes and toys easier as well as the load leveling with a trailer.

Hi everybody, I have an electrical issue with my Silverado 2008, I need the manual. Other members shared this some years ago but now isn't in dropbox. I hope someone could share me the repair manual again. https://www.dropbox.com/s/rflvemxjpqfc4h4/Gmc_Sierra_Service_Manual_Repair_Manual_Fsm_2007-2009_Download.zip?dl=0

Thom Cannel: Article & Photos Zane Merva: Photos GM-Trucks.com June 24th, 2019 This could be the shortest Chevrolet truck review in history. If that's what you came for, you can stop reading right now. But if you're curious... Why is the 3.0L Duramax so awesome? Because unless you’re building a custom lifestyle truck or simply using it for basic tasks you’ll be no doubt upgrade to more powerful engine when you buy your next Silverado or Sierra. That means either the famous 6.2-liter V-8 gas engine or this all-new 3.0L Duramax Turbo-diesel 3.0-liter diesel with its 277 HP, 460 torques and 9,300 pound towing capacity. If your truck is a lifestyle statement—and we have zero problems with that—this may not apply to you. That is, unless you’re from Texas where a better engine is as necessary as church on Thursday, guns, and football. Our vote, as the upgrade cost is the same $2,495 as for the 6.2L gas engine, is the new 3.0-liter inline six-cylinder diesel. It has the same torque, better fuel economy (we expect) and even has a sweet engine exhaust sound. Chevrolet invited GM-Trucks to Bend, Oregon to test the 2020 Silverado and it’s new diesel engine. Don’t worry if you just bought a 2019 Silverado—there are no huge differences for 2020; the truck was only released a few months ago. So, for 2020 Chevy adds adaptive cruise control and the amazing 15-view camera technology that includes “invisible trailer” from the Heavy Duty segment. We covered that. For 2020 Chevrolet offers a diversity of engines. There are, in addition to the new diesel, the 310 horsepower / 348 lb-ft 2.7-liter DI turbocharged I-4 with an 8-speed transmission, and two legendary small block gas engines, the 5.3L and 6.2L. In Model Year 2020 the 5.3L makes 355 horsepower (265 kW) and 383 lb-ft of torque (519 Nm) coupled to an 8-speed transmission, the 6.2L is SAE-certified to deliver 420 HP (313 kW) and 460 lb-ft of torque (623 Nm). It is paired with GM’s 10-speed transmission, which couples perfectly with GM’s DFM cylinder deactivation system. Hey, you don’t think you can run on two cylinders with an ordinary transmission, do you? According to Chevrolet the new diesel motor will be available in LT, RST, LTZ and High Country trim levels. The 5.3L gas engine is standard in LTZ and High Country models and available on LT, RST and Trail Boss. The 6.2L gas gasser is available more trim levels for 2020. Both engines will be built at General Motors’ Tonawanda Engine Plant in Buffalo, New York.” Not mentioned is the carryover 4.3L engine aimed at fleet owners. We arrived in Oregon to 80°F heat and blue skies, then were fed and watered, and set off on different tasks. We can’t talk about the HD trucks and their massive towing capacity for a couple of days. We were offered an incredibly deep-dive into the new engine, and a mileage competition featuring the new 3.0-liter diesel engine to start, however. Winning a comp is cool, but not realistic when you have a limited time with a vehicle in the first place. That said, other journalists did take the time to compete and Sunday’s winning mileage was in the 34-36 mpg range and then blown away by Monday’s 46 mpg. That, friends, is some serious hypermiling! However we still do not have official EPA certified mileage. That’s “To Come”. If you haven’t read much about the 3.0, here’s a modestly deep dive into its guts. First, the whole engine is state-of-the-art, aluminum head and block with thin steel cylinder sleeves and seven main bearings for the crankshaft. Combustion processes were among the driving forces underpinning design theory, so the cylinder head is essentially flat and the bowl-shaped pistons have zero relief cuts for the valves. That was important for efficiency. Simulation, and single-cylinder engine studies showed that having very vertical valves would not only allow a simpler bowl shape in the pistons, but that very shape would allow inlet-generated swirl to be maximized at every point. Swirl is produced and governed by dual intake runners feeding each cylinder. Oh, the ceramic glow plugs gave GM the highest compression ratio consistent with power and emissions, as well as allowing ignition to -22°F without a block heater. FYI, most of the engine development and engineering, as well as primary calibration took place in Turin, Italy. That’s GM’s center of diesel excellence. To ensure a quiet engine, emissions that more than meet standards, and deliver fuel economy, GM finalized an injection pressure of 2,500 bar (36,500 psi) through solenoid injectors capable of up to ten injections per combustion cycle. Early injections are primarily used to build in-cylinder pressure smoothly to abate diesel clatter. Later injections can be used for power and to keep the catalyst working within specified temperatures (those injections, sometimes caused by a catalyst cooled by highway driving, do negatively affect fuel economy but maintain emissions specifications). There’s a single close-coupled VGT turbo, for now, which indicates a possibility for later development of greater power and torque. Packaging to the “chemical factory” is as tight as could be manufactured. What we really haven’t talked about is the decision for an I-6 engine, versus a V-type. Obviously, six cylinders are longer than three, or even four. This slightly under-square engine delivers two things that a V design does not: smoothness and less side force. A V-type engine necessarily produces some side thrust, which is one of the reasons that Ford’s new 3.0L is made of CGI or Compacted Graphite Iron. In contrast, by using a robust, deep skirt design, Chevrolet and other divisions have an all-aluminum block, saving weight. Some of the extra length is minimized by packaging chain driven shafts at the rear. If you’ve never driven, or better yet heard an inline six, they’re smooth, likely the smoothest engine you’ve driven and with a unique sound. Both delivered by six evenly spaced exhaust pulses. The last I-6 engine GM produced was the gasoline Atlas LL8/Vortec 4200 used in Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, Olds Bravada, Isuzu Ascender and Saab 9-7X. ) Note that Detroit Diesel has produced an inline-6 since 1980 that displaces 11-14L.) Before highway driving, we did a walk-around. The GM-exclusive Durabed is impressive, and hard-coated for scuff resistance. Chevrolet says it’s made up of several sections instead of 1-2 deep drawn pressings. This provides owners with more cargo volume. As Chevrolet (and GMC) will tell you, it’s made of several varieties of High Strength Steels, so they claim it’s more dent and penetration-resistant than Ford’s aluminum bed. Inside the bed are 12 fixed tie-down points and nine moveable points, which has been a big hit with owners. Plus there’s that available power up/down tailgate, a power outlet and task lighting. A somewhat unnoticed feature is relocating the bed lights to flank the CHMSL on the roof edge. A couple of other things that are important are the corner steps and bed steps. They’re made for size 13 steel-toed boots and hold up to 500 pounds. We then drove the truck on the highway and on two-lane roads. Our first impression was of the powerful engine sound, followed by impressive torque. Electric motor type torque. Smooth power available at the lowest of engine speeds. Engine noise isn’t intrusive but like the torque, off the line it lets you know it’s there. However, with an open hood you hardly know it’s a diesel, it is that quiet. Even a random enthusiast who had been researching the new 3.0L Duramax and stopped us at a boat launch had to ask if it was a Diesel. This is simply unlike the larger Duramax and any other light duty diesel on the market. Something we’ll get into in our Heavy Duty story is the reason there’s a 10-speed transmission. If you think about the power band of a diesel engine, here delivering all of its 460 lb-ft of torque at just 1,500 rpm and holding strong to about 4,000 rpm, that’s significantly different than the power band of a gas engine. Thus, the 10-speed maximizes power and fuel economy—and every automaker has to deliver fuel economy, low CO2 and clean emissions. We have much more to come. For instance, we need to see if tow ratings are realistic, if its EPA fuel economy beats Ford’s 30Highway/22City/25Combined and how well it lives up to the Find New Roads slogan in real world driving under every condition we can discover.

Hey guys, After many many hours of forum reading and trying to find a answer for a problem like mine I've finally given up and decided to just ask. I've got a 2001 Silverado 1500 LS 2wd with the 5.3L. We were driving down a back road the other day and to simply say that it was muddy would be a huge understatement. Had I not know better I wouldn't have believed it was an actual road and not a trail. The mud was so deep that it reached clay in spots and we basically snowplowed mud with the front bumper. After making it back to the highway we went to go accelerate only to be bounced around wildly and were unable to go much faster than 80km/h due to a random and sudden lack of 3rd gear and overdrive. Limped the truck home and did a transmission fluid and filter change the next day. Fluid was filthier than heck, dark dark brown in color sort of like Cola. After that now the truck sometimes finds 3rd but 4th is nowhere to be found and once you get over about 70km/h it shakes so hard it feels like the worst washboard despite doing our best to get all the mud out of the wheels. Reverse still works fine. Looked under the truck and there does appear to be a bent crossmember but the frame still looks fine and straight. Some backstory; Never had any transmission problems before this or signs of slipping. The tires on the truck are oversized, from a stock 245/75r16 to running 275/70r17. At present there are no rear brakes, had a bolt on the caliper come off one day and long story short ended up disconnecting them and pinching off the lines for the back brakes. We also have kids who like to play driving and occasionally jerk on the shifter, one day our toddler somehow manged to get the truck out of drive without hitting the brake and it started rolling, it didn't go very far before I stopped it but nevertheless was certainly surprising. So my question is; what could be causing this to happen? Is the transmission completely gone and if so why no warning signs? Could it be the 3/4 clutch pack, the shift cable, transmission mounts or something else? Any input would be appreciated!

Is anyone aware of what is required to install factory fog lights into a 2016 & up Base level Sierra 1500 that didn't have them from factory? Will any scrap of wiring be present? The switch is not there... but can one order a switch, the lights and slap it in? Can the BCM be flashed by a dealership if required? I bought an el cheapo that doesn't have fog lights and the blank inserts drive me bonkers already... so I WILL be filling them in with factory fog lights... it would just be nice to know if I can have them work like factory or not. Otherwise I'll wire them up like jobbers and have a jobber switch. Thanks

Hey everyone - first post here and just bought a new-to-me 2014 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71 all stock. This is also my first truck so I'm definitely a newbie and if I'm asking some simple questions I apologize, but I couldn't find the answers I was looking for on other topics. Basically, what I'd like to do is level my pickup. I thought about doing maybe a small lift but I don't really want to fork out the money and I think the leveled Chevy looks just fine. Any recommendations for this? Seen people put on 2 or 2 1/2" level kits - difference between my wheel well heights is pretty much exactly 2 inches. The other thing that I'm having more difficulty making sense of is a wheel and tire combo. Currently, I've got P265/65/R18 on it. What I'd like to do is get a bit more rugged look while also getting more ground clearance for a bit of offroading, and hopefully not affecting fuel economy and ride quality too much, but I understand you gotta sacrifice somewhere. What I'm having trouble understanding is if I should get larger wheels or taller tires to achieve the ground clearance part. I've read that getting larger wheels can mess with your speedometer and such. Any advice on if I should stick with my 18's right now, and if I end up buying new wheels one day should I also stick with 18's then? If I went ahead and got my pickup leveled, which (or both) would help me get that better ground clearance? Increasing tires or wheels? What's the largest combo you'd recommend (with the level) that still prevents rubbing? Definitely want to get that rugged look but I haven't been able to determine which route to chase down, as the options seem limitless out there for what you can do. Could I just get bigger, more rugged, maybe wider tires to put on my stock 18's? Thanks in advance to anyone willing to give a newbie some advice.

Looking for recommendations based ofrom personal experience I’m considering getting Fox coil over 2.0 or 2.5 also Rancho quick lift. I currently have bilstein 5100 shock all around with stock springs and struts and I’m not quite satisfied with the ride quality over pot holes and bumps in the road are quite noticeable. I’m looking the best possible ride on my 2014 Silverado LT even considering new tires currently running 265/65/18 please help out this is my everyday driver mainly on freeway but will take on dirt roads every so often

Posting my a friend that just bought a 2020 Silverado 1500 custom. Can a power inverter be added to the bed and cab? The truck did not come with it.

While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.

I have a 99 tahoe and a 97 single cab 1500. Can I move the bed and cab from the 1500 to the tahoe chassis?

I own a 04 chevy silverado 1500. The brakes are spongy ( I've bleed them throughly, new everything except booster and master). My work trucks brakes are great 06 Sierra 2500 hd dual piston calipers all the way around same pads as the ones in my chevy. The question is can I upgrade to a dual piston the rear? They currently have the wimpy single piston. If an upgrade is possible do I need to upgrade the Master cylinder to accommodate the extra volume? If so can I just order the 2500 hd master cylinder?

Hello, I have a 2014 Silverado 1500. My license plate lights are not working I recently bought new bulbs and assumed they worked, but after checking out my truck the other night I realized they aren’t on, I cannot seem to find a fuze for these lights, should I buy bulbs first or check a fuze? And does any know where to find the fuze for these lights

Hi all, my Sierra went into reduced power mode a few weeks ago and I replaced the accelerator pedal position sensor after reading P1125. The code went away immediately and all was well. Today, my car went back into limp mode. I took the tape off my APPS connector wires and they seem to be in fine condition, the guy must have just wanted to keep them bundled together. After unplugging my apps, I plugged it back in and it got out of limp mode and I was able to drive it for like 5 miles until it went back into REP. Same code, 1125. Again, I tried unplugging/plugging the connector back in and the code is gone. Any thoughts as to why it keeps going back to reduced power and goes away for a bit after unplugging and plugging the APPS back in?

Can any one help me find this issue. On my 08 Silverado 1500 Vortec Max I can drive normally find no issues no lights etc. Sometimes though I can either be going over a small bump going around 10-20 mph and then it clunks and then goes into neutral. The 2 other ways it happens is when I make a turn and give it some gas to speed up it revs up and clunks and then goes into neutral and the 3rd way can be in 1st gear and then putting a decent amount of gas on it and then it does it again. It acts like its in neutral when its in drive and if I stop it just makes a bunch of noise and I can step on the gas and no movement.It sometimes will just go back into drive but other times I have to put it in reverse wait a second until it clunks back into drive and then its perfectly fine like nothing happened. The problem doesn't occur often but when it does it happens a few times more that day. I was thinking it might be a solenoid.

I was just curious as to whether people ran spacers after they did their lifts. I have read that you need a 1.5" spacer on the rear after adding a 4.5" lift to compensate for the front track width being wider.

Can I haul 2 full Ridgid job boxes in my 2010 Chevy 1500 WT? It's reg cab 4x4 with 5.3l V8. Also wanting to know what issues I could run into by overloading the bed

Planning on leveling my 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 with the MotoFab front 3" and rear 2" leveling kit. Planning on fitting 33" inch tires on my truck after. Trying to decide if I want 18" wheel rims or 20" wheel rims.. so if you could post pics of your trucks that would be great. Thanks!

Hi, I have 2 questions. One, I want to do the HD Front end conversion on my 2007 NNBS Silverado1500. I know what I need, and I have decided on the 2011-2013 HD grill and bumper. I have gone on line and seen some people go with the 2007-2010 HD hood and some people go with the 2011-2013 HD hood. Would any one know the difference or if one fits better onto the 1500 truck? And does anyone know how to install the bumper? And the second question was, How can I convert the truck into full electric mode? I have manual windows and no power locks. My truck is extended cab and I would wish for the back windows to work as well. Or does anyone have a really good video on what parts I need and how to do it step by step? I am by no means a mechanic but i do work on my trucks here and there on small things. Thanks in advanced!

I was hoping y’all could help me on my decision. I have a 2019 custom trail boss 5.3 with AFM 6 speed. I called the local dealership here and asked how my warranty would be effected if I disable the AFM. They told me “as long as that tune didn’t cause the damage of whatever i bring the truck in for all is well.” So they recommended me to a local tuner here in town which was surprising. I called him and he said to disable my AFM it would cost around 500. I do know about the range device but I don’t want to to deal with the battery issues it can cause if you mistakenly leave it plugged in. My other option is the hand held tuners such as a diablo. I have zero experience with them but I am going to put in a cold air intake and flow master 44 exhaust in the future. Would my best bet be the Diablo tuner to disable the AFM and use it to adjust my truck to my other mods or go with the professional tuner?

I have a 99 gmc sierra that I just bought. While im driving down the road I noticed a whine in the drivetrain, I noticed that the 4wd switch wasnt lighting up so I checked the fuses and the ATC fuse had been removed. I put in the correct fuse and the 4wd switch came on. Once it came on it said the truck was in 4hi. I tried to switch it into 2hi and theres a whining noise coming from the transfer case. It makes 2 long whining noises and the 2hi light flashes the it goes right back to 4hi. I cant get it to change into any other mode (4lo, auto4, 2hi). I bought the truck a week ago and im scared im going to grenade the transfer case by driving it like this. Can you please point me in the right direction.

Hey all I was wanting to do a 2500 front end conversion on my 2018 1500 Silverado. Has anyone done this to their truck if so whats the process and what is required? I'll take any advice i can get as im only looking to change the hood, grill, headlights, and bumper obviously. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Whats up guys, hope all you GM people are doing great. Ive got a 2017 silverado 5.3 Broke my transfer case gears around a month ago and tc actuator, replaces the gears with nitro gears and axles 4.11 and a new actuator. My truck is modified so i dont have warranty, costed me a lot to get the truck fixed from the middle east and parts+labor is much more than what you guys pay in the states. Anyway everything was fine switched the knob to 2-auto-4hi all was good on the road, i just kept the thing on 2wheel drive all the time. I drive usually in the desert/dunes and decided not to use 4 wheel drive at all unless im stuck. didn't get stuck for a good while till this weekend, got stuck switched to 4hi light changded felt the car turning to 4wheel and my friend gave me a tow and as soon as the car got out the sand got the service 4 wheel drive message. turned it to 2 wheel drive and light was stuck on 4hi however the car was not on 4 wheel drive ( did some doughnuts to confirm if the car is on 4 or 2 drive. Anyway now the car is back at the dealership and they want to charge me 2500 usd dollars just to pull down the transfer case and diagnose the issue. The mechanic said he assumes its the transfer case clutch.. Wanted to know your thoughts on this ? plus Isnt their an upgraded transfer case and clutch ? or a rebuild kit ? What are my options if i want to upgrade the transfer case if i have any ? tried google and didn't find much. HELP!!!!!!!!

I have a 2005 Silverado with the single cab. I was curious if I could take the standard center seat, that does not swing down. And swap it out with jump seat that does swing down (found in ext/crew cabs), in to my single cab? I'm looking to gain that armrest and simple storage on top. I have a subwoofer box behind the seats now and want to make sure it fits and all.

After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship. Here is the build. 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L Block: GM 6.2L. Forged crankshaft Forged rods Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons. Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.