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Showing results for tags '2500'.
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Hello, I am desperate for any assistance that can be provided for our situation. We are US military stationed in Germany. Our 2015 Sierra recently threw the p21dd code. We ordered the replacement reductant tank and installed it ourselves. The engine codes were cleared but we are still getting limitations on our speed and distance. We are stuck at 88kph/80km until we drop down to 6kph. In the research that I've done so far, it seems we need a manual regen done on the truck in order for the limitations to go away. This is where we are having the biggest issue. GM will not assist us in any way because we do not reside in the US. They constantly revert us back to the German GM entity and I've lost all hope in trying to communicate with them. We have been hung up on more times than I can count because we do not speak German. So, is there any hope for fixing our vehicle before it goes limp? If we can't get it fixed, we don't know what we will do as we cannot sell it in this state, we can't ship it in this state, and we definitely can't drive it. We are struggling to find a light at the end of this tunnel and would greatly appreciate any help available. -
I've got a 2004 2500 (non-HD) crew cab and i'm doing an engine swap to a 460hp crate so i'm looking to upgrade the exhaust; most likely just a cat back maybe some shorty headers. My problem is trying to find any non-hd systems, anybody have any experience to know if they're truly different or if they're interchangeable? I'd prefer a single out if possible. here's the engine going in: https://www.high-performance-engines.com/chevy-lq4-6-0l-base-engine-460hp-crate-engine-p/hp93.htm -
2018 GMC 2500 front valence removal
regreed21 posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado & Sierra HD Mods
So brought my truck to dealer to get skid plates put on. Asked them to remove the front air dam and they said the 2018's are no longer able to be removed. Anyone have pics of theirs removed or know how to remove it? -
Okay so my truck game with accordion style mirrors from the factory. The button on my door shows left for extend, right for retract which works however it says center for fold which does not work. I we have been told by a couple people recently that the mirrors did not fold and extend however they said that it could be reflashed to fold instead of extend. This makes no sense to me. So do the factory mirrors fold and extend?
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I'm new to forum, I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500 Standard Cab 2 door ( Not a HD ) My Center support Bearing for my driveshaft is Bad. I have searched continuously for a video that has the support bearing (SB) in the same location and cant find one. My SB is Not hanging like others but it was located above the frame. Is this correct? My truck has ran fine for years until this went and I was wondering if the SB was supposed to be installed below the frame ( appearing to hang). Thanks for everyone's cosideration and help -
Ok so I have a 99 sierra 2500 4x4 6.0. Parked it last night no problems. Get in this morning back out and put in drive . As I pushed the gas and started straightening the steering wheel the front driver side made a loud pop sound. After that accelerating I had a vibration for a while. Stop and take off no pop but vibration. I drove for about 45 mins vibration went away. I put in 4wd low no issues 4wd hi no issues. Any clues?
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I have a stock 2016 GMC Sierra 2500 base crew cab. Currently running 18", would like to upgrade to 20s. I'm looking at 20x9s, do I need an offset? What size AT tires can I run on these that will not rub? Note: I'm hauling a trailer at least a few times a month, so I'm not looking for a lift or a level.
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Hello Everyone, I just purchased a Chevy Silverado 2500. It would be a longbed if it had a bed on it.... I have seen plenty of beds for sale that were left when someone installed a flatbed or service body. I did not expect it to be any trouble finding a decent replacement. I was wrong....... I have been online & on the phone all day. I am finding lots of Ford and Dodge beds and a few 2008-2014 Chevy beds. I am begining to wonder if I can reasonably fit a 2008+ bed on my 2004 truck? Is anyone here familiar enough with the mounting of the beds to tell me what would be involved with putting the 2008-2014 bed on my 2004 truck? Thanks. S. -
Might have a ridiculous question but I cant see the issue in theory so I am consulting the experts. I have a 2015 2500 HD 6.0 4x4. I recently had long tubes installed. First finding long tubes for this application is insane. I could not specifically find anything that guaranteed fitment for this year. I ended up with speed engineering stainless that was made for the 6.0 up to 2013 according to them it should carry over in later years which is true given the L96 has changed little to none. I had zero fitment issue with the passenger side but the left was awful...... hit the motor mount, frame, and drive shaft. I had the shop modify the header to fit......being honest he did exactly that and I'm impressed but I believe the header is leaking like nobody's buisness due to the 8 different cuts and bends he made. and makes an awful sound I do not feel like going through hell and back or spend the money on another long tube header for that side to run into the same issue...... so what if I ran a shorty 1 7/8 stainless on the driver side and a 1 7/8 long tube on the passenger side? It's off the wall but why not? If the true duals x and I have a custom tune in theory it should not be an issue right?
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Hey guys, I apologize if this post is not exactly in the right spot, I'm new to actually posting on forms. I generally just surf them in hopes i find my answers but alas I must come out of the shadows finally as I am stumped. I have a 99 gmc 2500 6.0 gas truck that has had a bunch of problems and I had to replace tons of parts and even recently had the heads machined professionally and the valves fixed. I finally got it all back together and the vehicle runs but the engine shakes very heavily and has a misfire on cylinder 7 and 5. I get no codes for a misfire but I know its there and have verified the cylinders via unplugging the coil one at a time and replugging it back in looking for the difference in the way it runs. I get the two codes mentioned in the title. A egr valve code and a injector circuit open code. The injector circuit does not say specifically which circuit and I have a feeling this may be important. So here comes the data I have collected through my tests: Compression on Cylinders: Cylinder 1 compression at 180; Cylinder 2 compression at 150; Cylinder 3 compression at 180; Cylinder 4 compression at 180; Cylinder 5 compression at 180; Cylinder 6 compression at 180; Cylinder 7 compression at 180; Cylinder 8 compression at 180 ------ I have not done a leak down on any yet as I just had the heads professionally machined and new valve seats and valves etc which brought my compression numbers up from 130(vehicle was running with a misfire on a different cylinder before the machining due to a valve seat leak) Spark plugs all new, have spark reaching them from the wire and obviously from the coil to the wire there is spark as well Injectors all have ohm readings between 10.8 and 11.2, the injectors on 5 and 7 specifically were both above 11 Injectors Noid light test shows noid light not lighting up at all when ignition is on but engine not running Injectors Noid light is flashing at the same pace for every single injector including 5 and 7 when engine is on Both wires on all injector connectors are hot (shown by using a test light connected to the negative terminal of the battery) when ignition is on but engine is not on One injector wire has a solid light and the other wire shows no light at all( not even blinking ) when engine is on and this applies to all injectors (this test was again with the test light connected to the negative terminal of the battery) as apart of the process of diagnosing all injector connectors and wires etc I unplugged injectors one at a time, tested them, and plugged them back in. The only cylinder this seemed to have caused a problem on was cylinder 5. Originally for the bulk of the testing cylinder 5 was firing normally and only 7 was misfiring. When i unplugged injector 5 and tested it, I plugged it back in and the engine did not return to the single cylinder #7 misfire but rather kept misfiring on cylinder 5 as well. I since retried connecting it and I retested the injector and the connectors etc and got the same results as previously mentioned so nothing changed except that for some odd reason cylinder 5 misfires too. My reasoning tells me that it does not make sense for this to be a clogged injector(why did 5 suddenly stop firing after only being disconnected a short time) as they all have about 1k miles on the injectors. Thats it. They are practically all new. I have not yet used a mechanics stethescope on the injectors to see if i at least hear clicking on 5 and 7 but I plan to do that tomorrow. I also could perform a leak down test but the heads were just professionally machined and dont even have 30 minutes of engine running on them + my compression is pretty damn good. I would expect at least slightly lower compression if a valve wasnt seating or perhaps my rocker arm was tightened too much etc? Thats not even the cylinder with 150 compression and the cylinder with 150 is firing just fine I also stumbled across a crankshaft relearn process as a possible fix or a crankshaft sensor as a possible fix but those both seem like a bit of a stretch. And since I don't have a distributor and its coil overs I dont see how the firing order can be messed up. I also never messed with the timing so that should be fine(in the block cams) I know this is a lot. Im just at my wits end now. ANY help is appreciated so so much. Thanks
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I just thought I would post a poll to see how everyone uses their truck. I'm sorry if the questions are vague or not quite clear. Thanks.
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Hi guys, new here! I have done a lot of research trying find a TPMS reset tool that will actually work with the thicker mud tires. I bought one from Amazon, the JDiag model, which works fine on a friends 15' Silverado, but I can't get it to work on my 14' Sierra. The only thing I think is keeping it from working is the fact I have the BFG AT KO2's which are a much beefier tire. Has anyone had any luck resetting their sensors with this type of tire, or any other heavy duty tires like on the 2500/3500's? If you did, which reset tool did you use. I see a lot of people saying they can't reset their sensors, but now I wonder if the thicker tires is what's keeping us from doing so?
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Hey what's up everyone. Not sure if this is where to ask this or not. I'm looking to upgrade from a chevy 2002 1500 z71 to a 2500 chevy or gmc I've been looking from about 2004 and up. The biggest issue I'm trying to decide right now is gas or diesel. I am a mechanic but never worked or messed with diesels.So I tow a open car trailer and racecar in the summer during race season right now about 6,000-7,000lbs depending on which car is on it. I do tow some other stuff here and there too. But I would like the ability to tow more and to have something better for long distance trips and driving/ towing in the mountains. Now mountain trips would probably be less then a handful of times a year. Unless we really decided we liked racing at the track out there then might go a few more times. I don't plan for the truck to be a daily driver. I've put about 20,000 on my 1500 I have now in the 8 years I've had it. About 2-3 years of that was daily driving. Now whatever I do get I plan on having for a good while probably at least 10+ years I would say. And also want to be prepared if I ever upgrade to an enclosed trailer or ever got a camper etc.. What I do know right now is 6.0 is a gas hog, Duramax will give you better fuel economy and obviously better when it comes to towing. I know Lbz trucks seem to be the ones everyone says are the best to go for. But I don't know if I do enough hauling to justify the added expenses and maintenance for a Duramax. Also just trying to figure out what the best years, engine, and trans combos are to look for and any other issues either of these trucks have to be aware of. Sorry if this was too big of a post or not the right place to put this but Any advice help or opinions are greatly appreciated.
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I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
