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Drives

Found 43 results

  1. I put new spark plugs in my truck, and didn't know the torque specs for them. I have the L33, which is aluminum. I looked up the torque specs, and got the confused with a 5.7 vortec, which is cast iron. The torque specs for the 5.7 are 25ft-lbs, and the L33 is 13ft-lbs or in that area. You think I overtightened them? I put Bosch platinum 4's in. It isn't misfiring at the moment, but it had kind of a rough start this morning, but it's a little cold out, like 40's. I'm just learning and preparing myself for when I screwed myself for the stupid torque specs.
  2. I lost the two 7mm screws on the door panel of a 2005 GMC Sierra, does anyone know the part number, or equivalent that will fit? I'm a little leery of giving up and self tapping screws the hell out of my door panel.
  3. I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 with a stepside bed. I have been chasing for an answer for so long, I'm going crazy!!! Do I have to buy sexual fender flares for the stepside bed, or will fleetside bed fender flares fit?
  4. I have an open end rear differential. I was wondering if I could switch out some gears so I could have a locking rear end, or would I have to get a whole new rear end? I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 2x4 5.3 Extended cab, if that helps for you specificity oriented people.
  5. I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 2X4 SLT Stepside, in case it's relevant, and I was wondering if anyone has a part number, a website, a phone number for stepside bed fender flares. I cannot, for the life of me, track down any fender flares for my stepside bed!!!!!
  6. I drained and replaced half of my brake fluid, I replaced the fluid and did everything right....except I couldn't budge BOTH rear drain plugs and rounded the bleeder valves. So I didn't get all of the fluid replaced for fear of not being able to tighten the bleeder valves back on. I'll need to vise grip them of now, but need to replace them with new bleeders.
  7. A few weeks ago I started to notice a rattling noise at idle and I figured it was a heat shield or something to do with my exhaust. Well it started to get more noticeable so I got looking for the cause. I checked my exhaust and found no leaks or any place where it seems to be rubbing. The noise sounds just like a heat shield rattle until i put it in gear and then it goes away. I looked in the access ports on the bell housing and found no metal shavings or any sign of wear. I also checked the t/c bolts and they all seemed tight. Its annoying the heck out of me and i cant seem to find where its coming from. Anyone hear of this or had a similar problem??
  8. Is a 4L60e from a 2000 olds brevada the same as one from a 2001 Chevy Tahoe
  9. Long story short, I probably have a bad TCM or screwed up wire harness that's causing my transmission to stack shift (shift from 1st to 4th very quickly and not kick down when you take your foot off the gas). I payed a guy to do some special testing for me, and he's baffled. He logged into the computer, verified the stack shifting, and then when he logged off, it started shifting normally. Next, he shut the truck off, let it sit for a spell, and started the whole process over again. It was stack shifting again - right away - while logged in, and then after logging out, it worked normally until the truck was shut off again. He contacted HP Tuners and asked them what this could be and they were not really sure, so between them and his professional experience, they think it's the harness or TCM. Any other ideas? The only thing I did to the 4l60e that isn't stock is I replaced the stock servo with a Corvette servo. I kept the stock pin, though. Nobody says that this would cause the stack shifting or make the weird tuning issue of canceling out the stack shifting occur. This is driving me nuts!
  10. On my first 4l60E rebuild. I purchased this truck a few years back but only logged 15k on it during the purchases it had just recently had a freshly rebuild transmission. Always had a jerk to 2nd gear and a light clunk to 3rd <thought it would smooth out and maybe a mount so I put it off Well the otherday it its lost 2nd and 4th was real weak the 3rd gear clunk was sounding clunkier <--my own made up (word trans temp 4 min of driving 230 degrees) So after the fluid flush and servo inspection I pulled the trans which yielded nothing <-- Ps no TPS codes once pulled looked at 1-2 acc and check balls only count 7 may have lost one or maybe one was left out, thought there were 8 loose balls total? The band doesnt appear to worn but on one side its obviouly not as gritty. the reverse input drum looks warped kinda moon shaped also I knoticed the metal pitting assuming from slapping up against somthing but what and why? What would more likely cause this was a part possibly left out bearing or just happens . also is this warping actually warping every pic I pulled up online looks strait.
  11. Well, awhile back I picked up what I was hoping would be a good deal. Craigslist ad for a 1997 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4, regular cab long box, has 180,000 miles and the listing said body and interior in great shape, would trust driving the truck to Texas and back, yada yada. So I made the 200 mile trip to pick it up, they were asking 1800$ and when I got there, rockers were rusted out, cab corners gone, windshield wiper motor fried, blower resistor bad so only 1 setting works, door hinges shot, trucks misfiring, low coolant, oil blacker then sin, starter cranks slow, broken mirrors on both sides, list goes on. Talked her down to 1400$, and somehow managed to make it back, of course I had to drive through a blizzard on the way back. Overdrive started shuddering extremely bad in lockup so had to throw it in 3rd gear the rest of the way. Now so far, I've replaced the injectors with the MPFI spider, new intake gaskets, new plugs (she had the wrong ones in it), new distributor, new cap & rotor, cleaned a shit ton of sludge out of the intake valley, new pulleys and new serpentine. Engine has a tick that is sometimes loud, sometimes quiet, on the driver side bank. Usually goes away once truck warms up. Its there at all RPMs, doesn't get louder or quieter getting on the gas, so guessing its a valve? Dumped a quart of ATF in, drove it some and changed the oil. Fresh oil now with a quart of Marvel in there, definitely an improvement. Oil pressure is 30-40 at idle. I still have a random misfire, not throwing any codes. And when I say random, its only once every 3-5 seconds that I will feel the misfire, not in any given pattern. Thinking plug wires? Haven't changed those yet, but figured I would see what others recommend. I was hoping the shuddering at 45-60 during converter lock up, was a misfire or something. Feels like damn rumble strips. Hoping I don't have to get the whole tranny rebuilt. Paid 1400$ for the truck, and put about 1400$ into it so far. Still needs a lot of things.
  12. I have an 01 Gmc Sierra 4wd, Will the 4l60 E from a 99 Tahoe fit, I have been told a couple different stories and not sure. Thanks
  13. I am having two issues with my 2000 GMC Sonoma 2.2L 2WD single cab pickup truck. It has the 4L60E transmission in it, which is what is causing issues. It currently about 146,000 miles on the truck itself, but has a rebuilt transmission in it with about 60,000 miles. The reason I replaced the transmission the first time was because it wouldn't shift out of first gear and there was a loud cranking, grinding sound. Reverse also wouldn't work. I first noticed issues with the original transmission during a 400-mile road trip across generally hilly terrain. I wasn't towing anything, nor was it loaded with much except a large suitcase and my wife and I. About midway through the trip (traveling 60-70 mph), what I believe was the TCC failed to engage. I'm a complete noob when it comes to transmissions and TCs, but research on the web led me to surmise the TCC was the issue. As I was in the fourth gear, the RPMs jumped up from 3k to 4k, with no change in the accelerator position. I was not at WOT. The tachometer would remain at the higher RPMs for about 30-60 minutes until it would randomly drop back down to the normal cruising rate. This cycle would repeat multiple times throughout the trip there and back. Not realizing there was a major issue (and being pretty broke), I didn't have my truck checked. About a month later, the transmission did the grinding, clanking sound and went caput. That's when my mechanic recommended a transmission replacement. That was about six months ago.Two weeks ago, I took a job that requires me to travel about 20 minutes on a 70 mph interstate to get to work and back. I also drive the entire time throughout my 8-hour work day. The temperature outside has been nice (70-75 degrees), and I'm never revving the motor past 3k RPM. So that's the history. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I wanted all the facts in there. Here's the two problems I'm encountering. 1: Hard shift into second gear. The transmission jerks when it shifts into second gear, but it doesn't happen all the time. It seems to happen after I drive for a while, or travel at interstate speeds after cruising around town for a bit. The odd thing about this is that when I turn off the truck and let it sit for about five minutes, the problem disappears, and doesn't return for more than an hour or two. When it happens again, I just park, turn off for five minutes and continue on until the next time it begins shifting hard. 2: TCC disengaging again on interstate. This has only happened once and it was today. But I don't want to destroy another transmission waiting to figure out the issue. I was traveling home, and at about halfway through the trip of 20 miles, the RPMs jumped from 3k to 4k at a cruising speed of 68 mph. Again, there was no change in the accelerator and I wasn't running WOT. But I had driven the truck for about six hours straight (minus a stop here and there for restroom, lunch, etc.). When I got off the interstate, the hard shift into second was even more pronounced. I then pulled into the nearest parking lot, let the truck sit off for five minutes, and the problem vanished. Side note: The SES light came on about three weeks ago, stayed on for three days and went off. Earlier this week, the light came back on. I haven't checked the code yet. That's this weekend's task. I will update the post with the error code when I get it. Soooo... Anyone have a clue what's going on? I sure don't.
  14. Okay so I got a 95 s10 with the 4L60e trans, so I'll be driving down the road and I guess in about 3rd to forth gear at around 40-50 mph the rpm will drop to between 2-3 thousand rpm (shifting into 4th i believe) and a rather loud humming noise occurs. Is this normal? Or should I be worried? Please help I work 6days a week and have to drive this truck everyday. Just need to know if this is normal, thanks
  15. I have 97 sierra with the 4l60e transmission. It runs great but for some reason it won't move far. As soon as I start it up I can put it in any gear and it will go like its supposed to. But about 10-15 seconds later it will slip out and not move at all in any gear warm or cold. I can then shut it off and start it back up and repeat this. It will spin the tires but only for 10 seconds. The fluid is at the correct level and I checked the pump by checking the fluid while off then starting and checking the fluid while its running and the level goes down like it should. Please someone help me!
  16. I just purchased a 1999 6.0 Litre LQ4 motor with harness and computer, plus an extra set of aluminum heads. I thought it was a really good deal. Trumping a likely response, I'll just say it first. "You can always tell a Texan. You just can't tell him much". The donor vehicle was a 1999 Silverado 2500 4x4. Since it was a 4x4, it most likely had a 4L80E tranny, but I'm not certain about that. My intent was to do a "LS swap" for my 57 Bel Air. I'm NOT building a 400HP+ muscle car; strickly a street driver. My hope was to build a reliable and efficient driver, no DC generators with leaky PS pumps, 15 MPH, slack steering, etc.). However, I just learned that the crankshaft for the 1999 & 2000 LQ4s are a little bit longer than the standard LS or LQ cranks for later years (don't know about years prior to 1999). The fix as I can best understand it is some sort of spacer, or a new concaved flex plate, or a new custom made torque converter, or some combination of all of these. I'd like to go with the 4L60E if possible (size, weight, cost, etc.). If necessary, I can go with a 4L80E if that's my only option. Q1) Is there a 4160E that will mate up with the LQ4 without the necessity of some exotic solution? Q2) Is my only option to find a 99 or 00 4L80E? Thanks in advance Filbert Sam
  17. Hello all - First time poster. I have a 97 Z71 with trans problems. Got a whine in first and reverse. Everything I read says Reaction Planetary is worn due to high miles (only has 123K on it but first 50,000 was as a farm truck). Still runs OK, just has that whine. I'd like to know what year transmissions are interchangeable with this trans. I really don't want to pay the cost of a rebuild if I can find one out of a lower mileage truck. I see some transmissions for sale, but they say "fits 1998 thru xxx", so not sure if the 97 is unique. Appreciate any help. I'd rather keep the truck since I've so much crap to it over the years, it's EXACTLY like I want it. Thanx again. Ray
  18. I have a 4l60e with 35k on a rebuild. When I left work it shifted just fine for about 2 miles then it lost every gear. I pulled over and let it sit for a minute then I started it up again and it had every gear so I drive for another 2 miles and it lost every gear again. So I repeated that a few times until I called a wrecker. Any suggestions?
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