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Showing results for tags '6.0'.
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Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe. -
Hey guys, been searching but haven't found a simple way to look this up. I have a 2008 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 Gas, extended cab, 8 foot bed, I am reasonably sure its a 3.73 axle ratio and it has the towing package. The truck has almost 180k on it and the rear diff cover is leaking (seeping through). What I want to get is: http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1803 Has one on my old truck, its a nice piece. However I see that they only make it for a 9.5" ring gear. I see that my truck could be 9.5, 10.5, or 11.5. How do I go about identifying it? -
2000 6.0L, 5 spd, 4x4, ex-cab, swb. Notice: 5 speed, manual. Get this truck over (about) 1700 rpm's & it'll maintain speed (foot off the gas) till it hits a big enough hill. It'll gain speed/acceleration down the hills. It's kinda like the cruise control is on. The big problem is when out of gear & rolling, motor will rev way up, eventually bump itself down, then wind-up again. BIG PROBLEM- Can't just take it out of gear & coast down, unless you wanna hear that motor wind out. Usually a buzz sound, similar to a street light buzzing happens around the same time, not sure if related. Already replaced a throttle control. Have been told wiring problems are common for 2000? Any ideas ? Thanks.
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Hi, 2001 GMC C3, 6.0 keeps going into limp mode. Need help. Its been to numerous legit mechanics, everyone thinks they know the silver bullet fix. Always fixed for a week or so, then it starts again. Has had TB replaced, all all associated possible problems, wiring, wiring, wiring, knock sensors, etc. etc. Been struggling with it for over a year. Nice truck, would like to keep it, otherwise trading it in and gonna stick GMC with it. Dangerous to drive it anywhere but local. Anyone have any suggestions? It has onlly 130,000+ miles on it and runs fantastic when it isn't in limp. HELP!
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I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
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Recently purchased my first 2500 and opted for the gas burner option instead of diesel " to hard on my pocket" Looking at options to have options of attempt to save gas and also swap to unload the mustard when need be. What options would you use or have installed and what you like or dis-like about the tuner?
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Looking at a 5th wheel TT that weighs 8100# dry and 10,000# loaded. Pin weight is 1400#. Opinions of towing with 2017 2500HD, 6.0, with 4.10 gears.
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I'm getting frustrated, I have a 2001 2500 HD, 6.0 liter, I parked it for about a year or so and when I got it out it was running rough, keeps giving me the Po300 code multiple misfire, I changed the spark plugs and this did not help, so I starting looking other places, I found a couple of injectors that weren't working, so I changed them out with some rebuilt ones I bought on Ebay, I installed them and it seems to be hitting on the cylinders that were not working but still runs rough but now it pops out the exhaust and I still get the code, so I changed the spark plug wires since they were originals, still no better. I have sprayed the intake and all around it with carburetor cleaner and no change is noticed there, Anyone have any suggestions ?
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I have a 2001 2500HD wit the 6.0 engine 2wd, 133000 miles on the truck,I had to park the truck for about year and a half, I'm now wanting to get it out and drive it and it's throwing the random misfire code, (P300) I changed the spark plugs it still gives the code so I did some more checking and it appears to me the back two cylinders are not firing and I don't hear any "clicking" of those fuel injectors. I also checked and I have power and ground to the injectors. Is there a chance these just went bad or are possibly gummed up? I put a can of seafoam in the tank as well. But no luck. Is this problem happen very often? Where is a good place to get replacements?
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I have a 2003 silverado 2500hd with the 6.0 (LQ4). It's been having a hard time starting for a few months and I have been able to avoid the problem by cycling the fuel pump with the key a few times. What happens is the engine will crank for a while and either not start on first attempt or will sputter to life slowly. Sometimes a second cranking cycle is required. Current list of mods and replacement parts include cold air intake intake/ flow master exhaust and Blackbear 91 tune. I have replaced the fuel filter with a high flow spin on filter and also replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I don't beleive it's a result of the tune because it had the issue every once and a while before the tune. (The tune is about 3 months old) My next step is either replace the fuel pump or injectors. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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I'm looking to get opinions on doing exhaust on my 6.0. I'm looking to use stock pipe before the muffler then putting a muffler on that goes from dual in to single out out to a single out the passenger side . Wanting to be at 3 inch or 3.5 pipe and still wanting to sound decent like deep tone but not obnoxious loud. Also want to put big tip on.
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My 2002 6.0 AWD Escalade recently starting making loud popping sounds only during acceleration. I had a shop take a look at it and said it was my transfer case. My question is does a 2002 denali xl with 6.0 AWD and so will the transfer case fit my Escalade? The transfer case that came out the Denali is a np149 but will it function correctly on my Escalade? I'm a little confused because I heard I need the Denali vin to make sure it won't blow my transmission?
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I have a 2005 Sierra 2500HD, 6.0,4L80E, 4X4. The bottom end of the motor was making alot of noise after 165,000 miles. I decided to replace the motor, rebuild the transmission and transfer case. Got it all out, and all the new stuff put in. Went well for the most part. Replaced almost all the sensors, knock, oil level, crank,oil temp, engine temp,cam, etc. used genuine gm parts. Even ordered a new gm intake. Problem: She cranks, but I have no spark. Lights and buzzers inside work, everything seems to work, no issues. No security light on. Double checked grounds. (possible I have the wrong location??), checked all the fuses, Brand new battery. I have fuel pressure, going to put a gauge on this morning to see how much. (not that it will help with no spark.) Any Ideas? I'm at my wits end. (tried kicking the tires, didn't help)
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Hey guys have been battling this truck for a wile now and I'm kinda out of ideas and I don't want to keep throwing money at it so i figured maybe someone here could help. The truck is a 2003 GMC Sierra 2500Hd 6.0 Gas motor with 189,000 on it. It has a intermittent misfire the only codes i pull are a U1000 and a code for the bank 1 sensor 1 02 i have replaced that sensor a few times and it always comes back to misfiring. I guess it is possible that the sensors are bad out of the box but i dont seem to think so. I have replaced Fuel pump and filter, Injector 2 and 7 I have access to the GM scan tool and they weren't firing right. also have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, plugs wires have checked all the coil packs. The other thing the truck has done since i have owned it when the motor is warm and you turn it off and run in to the store or something and come back out and go to restart it its hard to start like it takes two trys or its a long time turning over. so i dont know if this is related or not. I have 4 other of these same trucks have have never had as many problems as i have with this one truck. Any input or ideas would be great thank you.
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I'm getting my lift soon I plan on putting on 20x12 -44 xd grenades on 37x13.5 wide tires. I just need to know what to gear to my friends say 4.88 some saying 5.13's but not sure.
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From the album: My baby
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From the album: My baby
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We bought a 2000 Chevy 2500 with 189k miles and with the 6.0l and need to get tuned up. I'm trying to decide if I need to replace the plug wires they Packard's which may be the factory original wires. Are Packard wires the original wires (see pic for reference)? I don't have a SES light, but need to scan it for codes.
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Hi I have a 01 gmc with a 6.0 in it, recently I've been having hard starts. The truck starts fine in the morning when it is cold. How ever when I start the truck up after it has been running for some time it won't fire it will stumble on it's face and Barley run. To about 500 rpm them dips up and down to about 100 rpm them can eventually die off and will have to re start. I have replaced the fuel filter last week and there are no leaks in the fuel system. The fuel pressure off the rail is at 52 when the ignition is turned on. When at idle and starting it dips down to about 45psi and will surge around a little bit. Holds pressure when shut off will drop down 10psi but holds it. Thanks for any options I can do it fix it. Jeff prenger
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Working on a ups truck with a 2014 gm 6.0 with a E78 PCM ,no power ,backfiring into intake on acceleration,codes p0174 and p0171,while testing found that the PCM is not sending 12v to the crank sensor.replaced PCM and same problem,I'm testing at the PCM so I'm assuming the wiring to the sensor is good,I can jump 12v to the sensor and the fuel trims zero out .the funny thing is that the PCM puts out a steady 5v to the sensor not 9 not 4 but 5v?any ideas
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Hey everyone, I am new to this build thread deal but I have had some people tell me that buying a beat up 15 year old truck was a waste of time and money and this will chronicle them being wrong. So I guess to start and make a long story short I was a die hard F#rd fan, sorry didn't mean to curse I know this is a family page, and where I live in Michigan you mainly see GMC and Dodge. A good friend of mine was helping me do some work one day and we had to use his truck because mine was down for the 100th time. And after spending a day in his truck I started looking and eventually bought a 99 GMC sierra 1500. I loved that truck and spent many hours and dollars making it my own but in the end it is only a 1500. So my fiancé and I talked and we started looking for a 2500HD. After a few months we found a 2002 crew cab SB that has spent almost all of it life in the UP. As you can tell I have a thing for buying old vehicles and making them mine. I would rather spend $3500 on a truck and put $6000 into it than buy a $10,000 truck. Oh and all the while this truck will be my daily driver. So here is goes.....
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Im planning on geting a new muffler for my truck with the 6.0. I want to keep it all stock with same pipes and cats. My question is what offset do I need the new muffler to have? Im planning on a Thrush 17649 Welded Muffler since im on a high school senior budget, and I know its not the best out there but its cheap and should get me through until next summer. Also about how much would it cost to have just the muffler installed?
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I picked up a Volant 15260 for my '08 2500HD, 6.0L with mechanical fan. Volant also sells a 152606 for the truck with the only difference being the filter element. Volant offers a "PowerCore" filter that does not get oiled (Pro 5 filter) and is advertised a lasting longer and performing better. Between the price difference and many an extreme dusty drive, I opted for the Pro 5 filter. The main thing that attracted me to Volant was the box has a cover instead of full open. Like the stock box, the Volant draws air from the inner fender only the hole is larger, AND it also pulls from the front of the box plus another opening in the bottom. Volant sells a down tube that attaches to the bottom of the box and pulls air from behind the bumper as well - I did not opt for this. The install is seemingly pretty straight forward. Taking out the factory unit: Remove the engine cover to access the factory intake tube clamp, remove the MAF housing and set it aside, remove the intake tube, remove the box, and remove the base plate that the box sits on. Installation of the Volant: Bolt in the box (uses holes from OEM base plate), install the filter, install the MAF using the OEM coupler and clamp, install the Volant hump hose coupler (silicone) to the MAF housing and clamp, install the special Volant coupler to the engine side of the intake tube, connect the tube to the hump coupler and secure, connect the tube to the engine intake and secure. *** I did have to trim the fan shroud where the intake tube meets - photos have one shot with the tube pressing against the shroud, and one after it was trimmed *** The issue I ran into is the hump hose is too short. I ended up having to undo all the clamps and run everything "long" by only keeping enough mating surface to cover the clamps on both ends of the MAF housing, and on the hump couple to the intake tube. I took the issue to Volant and they responded by saying the hump hose only comes in one size and the I needed to attach everything in the order in which I already did. My guess is if I stretch the hump -- essentially flattening it to extend the coupler --it may hold, but that is more pressure than I want to put on the clamps plus it does not account for engine torque (would be maxed out on length). For now I am just going to monitor the connections. If they move I will pick up a length of turbo coupler and make my own. Using a DiableSport T1000 to monitor the intake and ambient air temp, over some mixed stop-and-go, with state roads and temps in the upper 90's, the intake temp averaged 6 degrees above the ambient air temp. Driving on the Interstate in low 70 degree temp, the intake was 3 degrees above ambient air. I think both of those numbers are very respectable. I put the stock tune back on the truck to test performance. Engine load barely touches 69% just as it shifts at 6k RPM with WOT. This is pretty normal for my truck with the stock tune. I do not have logging data from the stock tune to compare it to, and I am moving from a stock tire to 35's along with a new custom tune, so the engine load is really all I can point to for hard data. It does feel like the truck revs out a bit quicker, and you can hear a bit more noise from the engine compartment. Other observations: The filter did not come pre-oiled. Volant says the replacement filters are pre-oiled, so I expected the kit filter to be as well. The special coupler for the engine intake looks pretty decent, but you really need to crank on the clamp to get the slotted tube to bite on the engine intake, which deforms the coupler - a lot! Backing the clamp off just slightly makes the coupler look better but also allows the intake tube to slip. The airbox lid uses a Phillips screw driver instead of a torx head. No biggie either way, just a "huh" thing. The window on the airebox lid is nice. The OEM airbox tray says "DIESEL" so I guess someone did an engine swap (yes, before someone comments, it is sarcasm) $25 rebate does not suck. Photos attached...
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I have a Silverado 6.0 and in the morning when it is cold the heat takes along time to warm up. If I turn it up and put the blower on high the motor takes along time to warm up to operating temperature. So I have to shut the heat off let the motor warm up and then turn the heat on. Any suggestions on what to do so I don't freeze to death driving to school and work?
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Original stock ECM (PCM) from my 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD with 6.0L gas engine. I purchased a Black Bear Performance tune and opted to keep my stock ECM. I've since sold the truck and just found this in my basement. Indoor heated storage since 3/2010. Looks like Black Bear currently charges $100 for a core, so how about $75 shipped to lower 48 or make offer.
