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Showing results for tags 'Air'.
Found 14 results
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I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
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For sale is my Magnum FORCE Stage-2 Cold Air Intake System - Black w/Pro 5R Filter Intake. This came off my wife's Escalade and was only on for one day (wife said it was too loud ). Retail is $437.50 (on sale through AFE at $385), willing to do $280 local to Houston or $300 shipped.
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I'm a bit puzzled. I recently purchased my 89 suburban. She ran fine for the first 3 days, then she started to sputter like she's starving for air or gas. We've replaced the air filter, fuel filter, and O2 sensor. The code we get is 44 (lean) but she smells like she's running rish. So I'm wondering what's next in line to check or how to rule out options so we don't dump a fortune into her unless its absolutely needed.
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Alright Gents, I'm new to the forum. My truck is a 2012 Silverado LTZ Z71 and it has the dual climate control and auto climate button. Heres the problem: About two weeks ago my air quit working out of no where, it would not work at all! Okay, so I replaced the blower motor and resistor and harness, still no air. So, then I replaced the in dash climate control module. The air will work, however it works when it wants to. I can cut the truck on, cut the power on and it wont work, but I'll be d****d if the air works after I've been sweating for a good hour while driving around in this Alabama heat and try turning it on at random! Sometimes, I can take out the fuse to the module and leave it out for a few minutes and out it back in and it work for a few hours with me cutting it on and off as I enter and exit the truck. I finally said to h*** with it and took it to a shop this morning, they called and said that it was the climate control module, that I just replaced mind you, and that they are waiting for a call back from the dealer because the module is a dealer part. I just now got to thinking about something...is there a specific procedure that you're supposed to follow after replacing the climate control module?? Am I missing something??? For the record the resistor did need replacing and I went ahead and replaced the blower motor as well since the old one was starting to lose it's umph and not push air like it used to. So, again...am I missing something here? I've looked and looked, and I'm not the only one with this problem, however no one has the exact problem. I'm really at my wits end guys! I work outside, so yeah I'm pissed right now because I cant escape this dang heat.
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Thinking about doing an intake, exhaust, and tune to my new-to-me 2017 Sierra 1500 5.3L 8 speed. I miss the throttle response my 2013 6.2L had, it would lurch forward at the slightest tap of the gas. I also want to hear the engine, its so quiet! Cold air intakes seem to be disputed for having any performance gains, so are they really worth the $$$ in terms of better air flow? healthier engine? sound? any words of wisdom? Your $0.02 is always appreciated! I'm looking at the Magnaflow 15267 catback as it seems to sound pretty good for what I'm going for. I've read that there is a flap in the factory exhaust system that creates back pressure for AFM shift into V4 mode. I do like V4 mode and would not want to go away with it. How can a catback system integrate this feature? Also, what would be the rough performance improvements if any from a catback exhaust? Any other options that would sound similar and perform better/keep V4 mode for around the same price as Mgnaflow (~$800)? As for the tune, I know ZERO about tuning but do want to get rid of the rev limiter, speed limiter, get some performance gains without having to put midgrade or premium fuel in. How does the tuning process work? about how much do they cost? how can it be adjusted in the future? I assume anything like this would void some sort of warranty? Anyone do something similar and can attest to their experience with an intake, tune, exhaust? -
2018 GMC 2500 front valence removal
regreed21 posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado & Sierra HD Mods
So brought my truck to dealer to get skid plates put on. Asked them to remove the front air dam and they said the 2018's are no longer able to be removed. Anyone have pics of theirs removed or know how to remove it? -
So, I decided to buy and test a $20 dollar portable air compressor from Costco, for when I air down my tires when off roading and I have to re inflate back up Take a guess, gentlemen, how long will it last? 1 week? 1 month? 1 day? Its performance is disappointing at least (33 inch tire, from 15 to 35 psi in over 8 minutes, and overheated) but again, it was $20.00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHua_C3KPPc
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I have a 1999 chevy silverado 2500hd with a 6.0 The air was stuck on cold so I looked at the actuator and it is working properly. Both hoses in the engine bay are hot. I took off the actuator and tried moving the blend door and it is stuck. Any way to free the blend door so it will open with the actuator?
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Hey guys, I'd like to tap into the collective knowledge of the group. Can someone tell me (or show with a picture) of where the temp sensor is for the outside air? I need to figure out how to not block the wind getting to it when I'm driving with the plow on. I tried all the way up, down low, straight, angled, and nothing seemed to make much difference. The best I could get was down low to the ground and the temp reading on the center screen was telling me 60 degrees F, while the local weatherman told me it was about 0 F. on Saturday when it was a bit warmer out, the reading actually hit over 100 degrees. then my heater switched to blowing cool air. That doesn't help me much when trying to melt snow off the windshield. So, long story short, where is the sensor, and if anyone has tips on how to maintain airflow to it while plowing, that would be great. I am open to moving it right now. -
Just stoped working while driving ,checked fuse ,ok, Help!! -
In my 04 Silverado I have the dual climate control with the knobs and sliders, and I picked up a deluxe Air con Unit With the Screen in the middle and 2 knobs! The rear connector for the fan speed control is different but wondering if anyone has done this mod and knows how to splice the correct connection in! Ill post pictures if end up doing it!
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2015 chevy 1500.. 3400 miles. A couple of times the heat didn't work. It always did "next time".. the other day I had to take a 3 hour drive.. it didn't work the whole way there...stopped for an hour..headed back still with no heat (it was 42* so it was not pleasant) Took to dealer - they said they cant find anything wrong, of course, and of course the he was working fine. Its only done this a couple of times in the past 2 months now. Anyone experienced anything similar? It blows out air, and it will adjust the fan speed properly (or what I'm guessing WOULD be properly if it was blowing out heat) based on the temp of the cab. Even when taken off of auto and just turned temp to hi and fan speed up, with AC button off, it was still blowing cold air. Any ideas? Could it somehow be user error? (doubtful) Also when the AC button is on, even when its on heat, is the AC really still running? seems dumb that lights always on even when you have the temp high and its blowing heat.
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2 years ago, I performed a GMT900 brake upgrade on my 2004 Silverado with 4 wheel discs. I've always had an odd "squishy" pedal feel ever since then. It was sorta firm but it never went back to what it was before. I assumed it was because the rotors I used were cheapos. However, a few weeks ago I checked the brakes by putting the brake pedal to the floor and pushing on the gas, the truck moved forward without hesitation. I tried this again on a gravel surface and it did the same thing. Previously I could get one or both of the rear tires to spin. This is a bit unnerving since I've driven 20k miles like this and not once has the ABS kicked on... Either way, I believe the process to upgrade my brakes was the culprit towards weak brakes and squishy pedal feel. I began by replacing the rubber flex lines because of some deep cracking, with OEM replacements. However, I think in this process I may have let some air into the ABS module. Secondly, (because car makers are great with interchangeable parts), I ended up installing one caliper upside down, so the bleeding screw was down and proceeded to attempt to gravity bleed that caliper. I think the combination of changing the flex lines and putting a caliper on incorrectly initially, then attempting to gravity bleed it caused some air to get into the ABS module under the driver side seat on the frame rail. I believe my next step is to bring it to a shop to use a scanner (TECH II?) to cycle the ABS module to remove any air in the valves inside the module? If that is the case, does anyone know how many hours a dealer will charge? or should I ask a shop to specifically perform this? One thing to note, I will not perform the "backwoods" method of cycling the ABS module, by finding a road with loose surface and slamming on the brakes. Thanks for any advice!
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I'm having some problems with my 05 Silverado's heating and air conditioning. Two or three times over the summer while I had my air on it would turn into hot air, really hot. Almost like I had the heat on full blast instead of the air. When I turned the truck off and then turned it back on again it was back to normal. About a week ago I had to use my heat for the first time and it was only putting out cool air. I'm trying to narrow down what the problem is. I'd like to try and avoid taking it anywhere and fix it myself, but I also don't want to just start throwing parts and money at it. Thoughts? Thanks Nic
