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Showing results for tags 'Sierra'.
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Hi everyone, first time posting, but long time reader. I usually try to avoid posting when I can, and just browse the threads and read about related problems and figure it out from there. Even though I've found many threads that are similar to the problem Im having, I still can't narrow it down to my next step. so if anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. Ok so, BAD oil leak problem with my friends 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. It's had this leak for a while, but it's gotten to the point now where it's starting to leave puddles. I power washed the entire area, and I actually got it pretty clean. Today when I looked again to see if I could trace the source, I had a much clearer picture of where the leaks are actually coming from. From what I've read it seems as though it could be the valve cover gasket, the crankshaft sensor, the rear main seal, or even the oil pan gasket. My problem is that to me, it looks like it's coming from almost all these places. I looked inside the bell housing and I don't see it looking completely soaked in oil. It does however, look like the leak is mainly coming from in front of the bell housing behind the engine, in between the two. I'll attach some pictures. These would be from overnight after I power washed it, so the oil hasn't blown anywhere from being driven or anything. Thanks so much to anyone who's got any ideas!
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Alright so my 2006 GMC Sierra was stolen, they stripped my led head lights tail lights 22inch wheels cluster etc. .. I got it back and running but the cluster I replaced mine with was from a Silverado now as I drive the abs lights come on and it says SERVICE BRAKE BOOSTER etc battery light is constantly on when I drive it .. would this be because the cluster I have is not meant for my Sierra ?? Any info helps thanks guys !
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Just had this happen. Going under 15mph, applying the brake causes the pedal to become stiff and lock up and not work. This has caused me to almost hit someone twice. Sounds to me like brake booster. Anyone else having/had this problem??? -
I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 4.3 and lately it's been like losing power when I'm driving down the road it acts as if it stalls and I pump the gas pedal and it turns back on or regains power. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, speed sensor, mass airflow sensor, spark plugs and also cleaned the throttle body. Do y'all have any idea what could be causing my truck to be acting like that?
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Quick how to and review of the Cab Over America wireless cab lights. Link to parts: https://caboveramerica.com/ The parts: For just under $400 you get a set of 5 battery powered wireless cab lights. Each light consists of 4 parts; the aluminum mounting plate, rubber gasket, LED/PV panel module, and the top lens. The top lenses can be had in clear, amber or smoke. In our case, we went with smoke. You also get two remotes to control the lights. Overall the quality is high and what I would expect from something in this price range. You also get some small lenses that can be place inside the cab lights to change the lights to amber while still using a clear or smoke outer lens. Lastly you are given a Cab Over America tape measure. We laid the tape out but ended up using a tape measure for all measurements. The install: First step was to decide on how you will be playing out the lights. We went with the two edge lights and 3 concentrated in the middle. Others may go with the even spacing all the way across, completely up to you. Here's a test fit. Also shows you the clearance with the shark fin. Remove the two nuts, lens, LED, and gasket so you are just left with the aluminum bracket with screw posts. It was easier to measure and mount the brackets without all the extra parts. We also bent the brackets a bit to fit the counter of the roof in the location they'd be installed. Here they are laid out in position. Wipe down the front 10" of your cab with Isopropyl alcohol. This is to prep the surface for better adhesion. Starting with the cab light nearest to the shark fin, measure 4.5" up from the windshield and 4.5" from the rain gutter to the front stud. This will locate the front mounting post. The rear post of the drivers side cab light should also be 4.5" from the gutter. Using a marker to make temp markings so when you remove the tape backing you can guide the bracket into position. Remove the tape backing, heat up the double stick tape, and install using your guidelines. Repeat for the passenger side light. Find the center of the windshield, measure 4.5" straight back, this will locate the front stud of the center light. Make sure the mounting bracket is straight and mark guide lined with a marker, remove tape backing, heat up the tape, then install. For the side center lights, we offset the lights 7.5" from the center light centerline. Measuring 7.5" from the center light's stud to the side light studs we were able to locate the side lights. Both the front and back studs of the side cab lights are 7.5" from the respective studs on the center light bracket. After all the metal brackets were installed the rubber gaskets were reinstalled, LED modules installed, and the lenses were screwed down. Last step was to sit back and enjoy the lights. They look great with the switchback mirrors! Here is a video of the install if you don't like reading! Thanks! WF41
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Small leak. Other side is dry. -
I have a 2005 Sierra 1500 with a blown gt5/g80 and a 2004 Silverado 1500 parts truck with a gt4. Just wondering if everything would be the same if I were to swap them or not -
Been looking at a new truck... 2008 Sierra 2500HD SLE with the 6.0L vortec 290,000km or 180,000 miles And its got a 6 inch BDS lift with 35's. Been really into pre-lifted trucks as it saves all the upfront costs of getting it properly installed and such, just wondering if this is a good idea to get into especially with the high mileage if anyones got some feedback!
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Newbie here... I have a new 15 Sierra SLT with the reverse tilt mirrors. When you put it into R the mirrors automatically tilt downward to a specific location. For me, the location selected does not work...I want to modify or move where the mirrors point to when the truck is placed in R. I can't seem to locate how to do this. When in R, I can change the mirror location, but it does not remember that same location the next time the truck is placed in R. Help? Thanks, -James -
Hey all, So as the title states I'm trying to find and install a light bar behind the grille on my 21 Sierra. I was curious if anyone has done this before and has any pointers or tips to point me in the right direction. Ideally a solid light bar 30 - 40 inches is optimal, however fairly bright 6 inch light bars that would fit on either side of the GMC logo would work as well. Not sure what a good lumen rating would be for a light bar, but it should be sufficient to illuminate a highway at night as there are no streetlights or towns for 400 km roughly and seeing wildlife early is essential. I appreciate any assistance in advance anyone can provide. -
I am in the process of wiring in my dashcam to my 2008 Sierra 1500 SLT to only be on when the ignition is on. There are no ignition switch fuses in my drivers side fuse box so as I see it I have 2 options : 1). Use one of the ignition switch fuses on under hood fuse box. The ones I have found (according to the manual) are : - Transmission Controls - Airbag System - Misc, Cruise Control - Aux Climate Control - Engine Control Module Can I pick any of these to use as I am using a fuse tap? I was thinking Aux Climate Control. 2). Tap into the RAP relay used for the audio system. However I can't find the relay (not in the manual) and I'm not sure how to tap into this without cutting wires. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have included a photo of my (under hood) fuse box cover if that helps. -
Hi I'm new in this group, I hope you guys could help me out. I'm driving a GMC SIERRA 2014 ALL TERRAIN MODEL and I been trying replace my blower motor resistor, but the problem is that... I don't know where is located, according Google, amazon and o'reilly I bought the correct one. Every body is saying that is normally next to the blower in the passenger side, but I couldn't find it. I'm leaving photos to show you guys how it looks right where the blower is.. Thanks
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Lots of power but won't start
Steve_G posted a topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshooting
So I have a 2016 Sierra. No issues till yesterday when I went to start after running into a store. I got one click then nothing. All the different systems service warnings come on display when I turn key. I recharged battery to make sure it was good. I jumped the starter relay to make sure it wasn't starter. It turns over great with or without the key on. Having all the systems service warning coming on seems the most confusing. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks -
GM OEM TRI-MODE POWER BOARDS FOR SALE FOR 2019-2020 modeL SIERRA AND SILVERADO trucks. great shape. Minor scratches. Only on The original vehicle for a couple months. SHIPPING FROM NEW ORLEANS PRICE = $900 + shipping cost -
I’ve got a 1995 GMC Sierra 5.7L. I was at the gas station yesterday and as I turned the key, the starter was engaging and doing its thing however it wouldn’t turn over. You can hear the truck trying to start yet you have to give it gas (pressure on the accelerator) in order for it to fire up. After getting the engine to run, it has a rough idle. I can hear the fuel pump whine/hum, and I’m getting fuel pressure through the fuel filter. I have also recently replaced the distributor and spark plugs recently. Any ideas, tips, or pointers? -
John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 4-25-2019 Back in December, GM-Trucks.com member Jammin87SS posted a note here about a class-action suit related to GM 8-speed automatic transmissions. This transmission was used widely by GM, including in the Sierra, Silverado, Colorado, and Canyon pickup trucks. Owners have been complaining of shuddering and hesitation. Owner of a Silverado, Ed T., wrote a typical description for CarComplaints. He says, "Ever since I bought this truck new there has always been a shifting problem. This problem occurs whenever I slow down to a fairly low speed and then accelerate. When I accelerate there is a hesitation for a second or 2. This is very annoying and could potentially be dangerous. I have contacted my dealer and he just says "that's the way they shift, no fix"??? Dealer also stated that the transmissions have a learning chip and shifts the way a person normally drives - that's total BS. I have had my truck for over 2 years and it still shifts poorly. Besides the above I love my truck very much, GM just has to fix this problem..." GM knows there is a problem. It has issued both notices to its dealer's technicians and also TSBs. However, it has yet to find a solution that works. There is a class action suit that you can learn more about here. Our questions for our members are; 1) Have you experienced any issues with your 8-speed, and 2) was the dealer able to fix it? Let us know in the comments below. -
Dear All, I've changed the original belt driven radiator cooling fan in my GMC Sierra 2004 to an electrical driven type and want to know what is the best alternator to install to overcome the amp loss without adding/modifying alt. bracket/holder or wiring connections please? Regards, -
I own a 2016 Sierra 1500 and need a new OEM front bumper. What other year model front bumpers are interchangeable with the 2016?
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Recently I noticed my navigation not working in my 2016 Sierra Denali. The GPS has a red X over it. I have done some research and most people are saying the green onstar light on the rearview mirror turned red when they had an issue. Mine is still lit green but no GPS signal. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a fix?
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Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 2018 GMC Sierra Crew Cab SLT All-Terrain package. I'm personally wanting to install a leveling kit and I believe I've selected one. I've read a lot about leveling kits for 2017-18 trucks and this seems like a great kit. However, there isn't many reviews on this product by ReadyLift. The appeal of this lift is the UCA replacements and the <2" height it allows. I'm wanting to go with 305/55/20 or 285/60/20 tires with my stock AT wheels and I want as much clearance possible. I found maybe 2-3 members on here with this lift and I'll quote them below. My question is, will this work with my All-Terrain package? In the description of the kit it states, "Will not work on Z71 packaged vehicles with factory Rancho® struts." Yet on ReadyLift's website, there is nothing supporting that statement. Does anyone have any information or review for this kit? Thanks! -
Hi everyone, new to the forum here and haven't seem to be able to find an answer after searching. Purchased a 2020 1500 AT4 last summer(love the truck), and recently added the Firestone Ride-Rite kit to the rear(kit #2609). I also ordered the 2" spacer kit as recommended (kit #2366). I'm having a bit of a problem with the install and was wondering if anyone else has added rear air bags to their AT4, and did you end up using the spacer or were you fine without it? Problem is the air bags are slightly misaligned, and appear "under-inflated" with the spacer in there even when I have 10-20psi in them(there is about 500lbs in/on the box via a canopy and a Decked box system installed in the bed; I'd rather not have to try and remove these unless I absolutely need to, to diagnose the problem). I know in the instructions it says to have 5.5-6.5" of space between the upper and lower mounts. So my next plan is to jack up the back of the truck enough via the hitch receiver to recreate the correct factory fender gap front to back(should be roughly 1.5" from the factory with no load if I'm no mistaken?), and then measure the distance between the new mounts. Thoughts and/or someone who has added rear airbags to their AT4? I'd assume the Trail Boss would be very similar? Cheers -
Hi, I'm new here and I wanted to ask if anyone knows anything about fixing the tailgate latch rods on a 2005 GMC Sierra. When I bought the truck, the tailgate wouldn't open but I thought all it needed was a replacement latch because the connecting pins were gone. I replaced the tailgate latch itself because i needed to anyway, but the rod on the right is stuck in place. Does anyone know what might be the problem? The left rod moves freely, but the right one is stuck. Thanks for any help.
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Ok so I have a 2015 gmc sierra 1500. after backing up and putting it into drive I get going for about 5 to 10 seconds ill get a jarring lock up for a split second. First time it happened I was going about 40 and I bounced off the steering wheel and left a little skid mark. It sounds like either my transfer case or transmission is locking up but it literally lasts for a split second then goes away. also I've noticed that after shifting from reverse I hear a loud transmission whine before it does it. This has happened at least 30 times for about a year and dealer says they can't recreate it. It's the 6spd tranny Also I know all about the normal GMC transmission clunk when shifting I have that too but I've learned to live with it. This is something else entirely. Its dangerous and I can't find anything on any forum mentioning this issue -
i could use some advice.... I bought a 2014 GMC Sierra crew cab z71 4x4 and my check engine light flashes so i take it to the dealer. Truck has 5k miles on it. Dealer says it is a misfire on cylinder 8. They tell me it had a loose clip on the spark plug. 500 miles later the check engine light flashes again. Go to the dealer again its a misfire on cylinder 8. They replace the plug and the wire. Said it was a bad plug. 500 miles later the light flashes again. I call the dealer and they tell me they will have to teardown the enging to cylinder 8 to see what the problem is. Does this sound right for an engine with less than 7k miles to need a teardown to cylinder 8? What does that all consist of anyways i ask? The serive guy never gave me a straight answer and wouldnt tell me what the compression was on that cylinder. I dont like the sounds of teardown a new engine and asked for that coil pack to be replaced and was told no. Anyways anyone had any problems similar to this and could offer some adive or tell me what a teardown to cylinder 8 consist of? Thanks
