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I’m starting a build on an 01 Sierra c3 and I don’t really know where to start since it’s awd, I’m wanting to do a 5/6 drop, any awd or lowering fanatics?

2015 GMC Sierra. 60k miles. Crew cab, short bed. Got a P0445 2 weeks ago on a road trip for the holidays. Cleared it, it came back immediately, drove it back ~1000 miles no issues just bad mileage. Now I'm getting a P0449. After getting under the truck I realized the wires going to the evap solenoid are torn up. How? Why? I'm not sure. So, I'm attempting to splice them back together before replacing the solenoid but cannot get the plug off for the life of me. I've attached photos of the wires and the plug/connector. I've tried pulling Part B straight down, away, up, etc- and it doesn't budge. I've tried prying Part A out (away from the wires) and it doesn't budge either. I've also tried pushing in the red tab between the split in Part A but that also doesn't budge. Can anyone help me figure out what to do here? Is my pin/connector broken? Thanks in advance...

So, I want to know what it would take or if it can be done, switching some heated/ac seats out of a Cadillac Escalade Platinum model into my 2007 GMC Sierra 3500HD SLT. Then also switching the control panel in the center console for it also. I just want to know if anyone has done this and if it can be added and done???

Looking to swap my “stepless” bumper for a “stepped” bumper. Anyone with a bumper to a 2014-18 rear bumper with step corners and a bumper with sensor spots, contact me. I’m in Lancaster county, PA. My truck is the Sierra painted in Stealth Gray Metallic.

So I recently purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra and I have the jump seat configuration Id like to switch to the jump seat to a center console and I was wondering has anyone done that on a 2019 or a 2020 GM truck already? I feel this is a do-able modification to my vehicle but Im looking to see what I would need to do. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated.

Selling my Eibach Pro Truck Lift Kit with coils, struts and shocks. Unopened direct from manufacturer with warranty. I am hoping for $400 but I am willing to negotiate a little. Located in Houston TX. PM for more info and Ebay listing.

So I just got a 2014 Sierra SLT, and I'm wondering, is it compatible with the 2016 Sierra Denali? I have access to one for parts and was hoping if someone could tell me if it's even possible to. Body on the 16 is gone, but the trans and engine and some of the interior is still usable.

Hi i have a 16 gmc sierra im having multiple issues and can't figuer them out First issue I hit my turning signal or even stopping. Will cause my radio/display screen to turn green. Second issue is also in the display screen my backup camera won't come on when I'm backing up any help would be greatly appreciated!

2017 sierra A/T crew cab I have the most annoying tick noise over bumps, coming from the b pillar behind my left ear and it is driving me brick house, I've pulled at the trim off put my hands on everything made sure everything is tight, stuff rags in between contact points, I've run out of ideas, anyone have an guidance for me, I'm a ex gm technician of 5 years , I know what I'm doing but of course my own truck baffles me..per usual any new bulletins or tsbs?

So I'm kinda new to this whole work on your own car thing and I have a 2005 gmc sierra that has started to squeek whenever I drive from what I can tell it's coming from the front drivers side tire my first thought was maybe a wheel bearing but not sure haven't done much troubleshooting or research yet just didn't know if anyone else might of had the same problem

I have a 2014 Denali and I currently have the ride height adjustable bilsteins shocks and they don't lift the truck enough to actually level it and I am wanting something with better performance. I want a coilover that gives 2.5-3" of front lift and upper control arms. I am looking at the icon, King, fox and Baja kits but I want to run my stock 20" rims. Does anyone have any input on what kit they went with, how it rides and if it can run stock rims? Any input is greatly appreciated!!

This has been an on-going research project of mine. I discovered when I inquired about having the Trail Boss (TB) factory lift kit (GM part# 84629787) added to my 2019 LT Z71, that I could not have the kit installed due to the secondary composite leaf springs on my truck. Upon further investigation, I found that ONLY the LT with 5.3L (and LT with 3.0 diesel and short box) had the composite leaf springs preventing the truck from having a TB lift added. On the GMC side, I found out the Sierra Denali also uses the same leaf springs with composite secondary as the LT 5.3L. My first impression was, “why the heck would GM do this?” Why wouldn’t the LTZ or High Country (HC) have the the composite leaf? Why would only the mid-level LT have it? The Sierra Denali has it and it’s a $60K+ truck. My LT averages around $45K. I might be a little upset as a LTZ or HC owner to find out my rear suspension is the same as on any Custom trim truck, or even, the base W/T model. I’ve doing a lot of reading on composite leaf springs and there are more advantages to them than disadvantages. Though they are dimensionally bigger (thicker) than the steel counterpart, they weight a lot less, last longer, and offer better damping properties than steel. GM has had a good track record using composite leaf springs. The same technology has been used on the corvette since 1997 with the introduction of the C5. Disadvantages are minimal, such as, they are more expensive to produce, can burn up in a fire, and in this case, can’t be further bent or altered out of original specification. This must be the reason GM won’t allow the lift to be added to vehicles with a composite leaf. I’m sure the leaf could take the additional stress, GM engineers just want to play it safer than sorry. So with this, the Silverado LT 5.3L (and LT 3.0 diesel with short bed) and the Sierra Denali are the only trucks to use the composite leaf. Though I’m disappointed I won’t be able to get the TB lift added, I’m now pretty stoked to find out my LT has more mechanical innovation put into the suspension and I didn’t have to spend $15K+ more for a Sierra Denali to get it. However with this, it seems that if someone is looking for a top-end truck, the Denali would be the better choice over the HC which lacks the particular composite leaf spring feature, if that mattered to the buyer. For reference, attached here are the GM compatibility charts for the Silverado and Sierra to see if you can add the TB lift kit. Also here is a link to the previous discussion about the TB lift kit where you can find more detail about installation and issues surrounding the composite leaf springs.

I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.

Hey ya'll I just upgraded and got a 2020 AT4 and want to protect those seats from damage due to having a car seat installed in the back. Any recomendations on what I could put under the car seat to prevent the booster seat from creating a permanent indention? I appreciate any opinions or experience!

*************Radio and HMI sold. Cluster was returned to vendor on eBay.************* Hey guys, If anyone is interested, I have a radio and 2.5 HMI I purchased from White Auto and Media Services (WAMS) on August 20th for my 2015.5 1500. It was programmed to my VIN, but in the short time since, my truck got hit and I am no longer in need of them. You would need to ship them to get reprogrammed, which is just $100. I’d like to get something for them. For both parts, $300 plus shipping (I’ll confirm what they charge me to ship them back to me). That’s half the price they charge for asking them to source both components for you. Send me a message or reply and we can work out the details.  I definitely would trust WAMS for any radio/HMI and cluster upgrades. Their service is fantastic and turn around time is great. 

So I bought this 2015 Sierra and it needs ball joints replaced. Only problem is I can’t get a straight answer about If I need new upper control arms or stock ones put back in. It currently has Rough Country arms but when I asked RC they told me that they should not be installed. ALSO I’m not 100% sure in the size of the lift. RC says it’s a 5” but it doesn’t seem like it. Just looking for some input. Thanks

TL;DR: I drove 2,941 miles from South Florida to Southern California in my brand new Sierra 1500 AT4 Duramax and pulled my 4,400lbs pound boat. I experienced no drivetrain issues other than running out of gas which was my own fault. I kep the rpms mostly at 1500-2100, averaged 12.6 mpg, consumed 11-12 gallons of DEF and had no cooling issues under the load and in the 118F heat of the Californian desert for the prolonged time I was driving. The trailering app and trailer tire TPMS system paid for itself and was a great tool for safety! DEF gauge may not be accurate to read when towing, rather go by the mileage warnings that display on the dash. Adaptive cruise control disengaged briefly but was able to re engage after turning the truck off and back on again. I am very satisfied with the performance I experienced and overall truck and have had no issues thus far with the drivetrain (6,054 miles on the clock). Hey y'all, I wanted to put some info out there about the trip I just made this week from Boca Raton, FL to San Diego, CA in my brand new 1500 AT4 Diesel to include performance numbers, issues I encountered, good, bad, and otherwise. I was a little on edge seeing as I did a decent amount of research on the new duramax before I bought it in July and there are definitely some issues out there that are yet to be addressed, however I had to move for my new job so here goes. Google Maps put the trip at 2,611 miles (4,202km) from my parents driveway to my new place but my trip clock read 2,941 miles (4,733km) due to stopping in to see some family along the way. I had 3,110 miles (4,989km) on the clock before I left. Note that my backseat was full of boxes and my bed was mostly empty except a weatherproof toolbox because I don't have a tonneau cover yet and did not want my items exposed to the elements or sticky fingers for the five days I was on the road. I was also towing my boat which is a 20 foot center console on a tandem axle trailer with dual axle hydraulic surge brakes. The boat and trailer combo weighs 4,400lbs (1995 kg) as indicated by the weigh scale I stopped at in California and my WeighSafe drop hitch with tongue scale. I spent the overwhelming majority of my time at ~1500 rpm while on cruise control at 67-mph but would jump to ~2100 when gradually accelerating. I left on Sunday afternoon and drove 225 miles (362km) to Daytona Beach, FL mostly uneventful despite my DEF warning popping up saying I had a 1000 mile range. On Monday, I drove 514 miles (827km) uneventfully seeing some family and friends in the Panhandle of Florida. The only eventful part of this leg of the journey was the DEF message popping up in the morning saying I had a 300 mile range approximately 150 miles after the 1000 mile warning and a speed limited soon message shortly after the 300 mile message. I figured I would use more DEF while towing but I hadn't put much thought into exactly how much I would use while planning my trip. I will talk more about DEF later. Tuesday I drove 537 miles (864km) from Milton, FL to Houston, TX uneventfully. Somewhere around San Antonio, TX I got a message that adaptive cruise control has disengaged. I was able to switch to regular cruise control but still don't know why that happened. I was able to re engage adaptive cruise control later in the day after I turned off the truck at a fuel station. Any thoughts would be appreciated here if you have experienced something similar. Wednesday is where the fun started. About halfway between Houston and Fort Stockton (508 miles, 817km) I got a low trailer tire pressure message on my dash. My truck came with 4 trailer tpms sensors I had installed into 4 new tires on the trailer about a week before I left because I figured why not. the tires are filled to 50psi as per the sticker on the trailer and the message showed front right had 35 psi. I figured all was fine and it was an error message as I had already driven over 1000 miles with no issues but I decided to stop and check at the next exit as I noticed the pressure was steadily declining. I pulled off at a Love's and went to check and could hear the air coming out but couldn't see a nail or feel the air. Regardless (after re parking in the shade at 102F outside), I took the tire off and lo and behold found a 3 inch nail in the tread near the edge of the tire. Within 15 minutes I had it plugged, refilled, reinstalled, and ready to go. That right there ladies and gentlemen justified the $85 I paid to install the sensors. Had I not known of the diminishing air pressure I surely would've had a blowout at the most inconvenient location and had to put a spare on in the heat. So that sold me on the trailer tire TPMS system, cost to install already paid for itself by saving me from having to buy a replacement tire. On Thursday, the plan was to go from Fort Stockton, TX to Tucson, AZ (558 miles, 898km). I was about 30 miles away from my next planned fuel stop when my fuel level low light came on but I didn't think anything of it as I would be stopping about 20 miles before I ran out of fuel. When I pulled off at the only fuel station in the area (Akela, NM) which GasBuddy showed had diesel, I discovered much to my dismay that the station did not have a diesel pump. I knew I was probably screwed but didn't really have a choice but to shoot for Deming, NM which was 24 miles down the road. My fuel level read low so I reduced speed to improve economy and hoped for the best. Worst case scenario I run out of fuel much closer to an actual city which would reduce the time it took for a fuel delivery service to reach me. 5 miles out of Akela, a car flags me down and says something blew off my boat so I pulled over and saw that my bimini top had blown off. I figured my best course of action was to drop the boat on the side of the road and turn back and try to find it. because there was no way I'd make it to Deming after turning around with the boat. Anyways, I had to go back about 3 miles to get the bimini from the middle of the road before going back. I decided to leave the boat, get fuel, and come back for it. The boat has a tracker so I could ensure it didn't get stolen plus i had 2 tongue locks on it. I made it about 12 miles before I heard a sound from the engine that sounded like i hit debris on the road, a message popping up that said speed limited, pulled over and kept the engine idling while I inspected the truck for damage and could see none. I turned off the truck to restart it and try to get back on the highway but it wouldn't crank. I called roadside assistance from the myGMC app and a guy called me to confirm that I needed diesel and was out to me from Deming in about 20 minutes. Fueled up, started, but had a check engine light so I brought it to the Chevy dealer in Deming to get checked out and ensure there was nothing seriously wrong other than running out of fuel. It was just some computer errors from running out of fuel, had them cleared, and left for no charge. Filled my tank at the nearest fuel station, turned around got my boat, and continued on my way after a 3 hour delay and made it to Tucson just in time for happy hour! Friday, I finished my trip to San Diego about 407 miles (655km) uneventfully despite temperatures reaching 118F outside. I was monitoring engine temp which was regulating well between 190 and 205 and tranny temp which kept between 185 and 203 depending on the grade. No issues at all with cooling or performance. Honestly the torque was really impressive on the 6% grade that stretched about 35 miles up and down. By the time it was all said and done, i averaged 12.6mpg for the entire trip although I was getting about 14-16 after I had the bimini top stowed in the bed on the truck reducing the drag of the boat. I had to put in about 11-12 gallons of DEF throughout the trip to top off my tank at the end. I found that the DEF gauge was not displaying accurate levels because when it displayed red Low and no bars it took 4 gallons before overflowing despite the tank being about 5 gallons. The range of the DEF was not linear. It showed 300 mile range at 5 bars but dropped to red and low almost immediately after reaching that point. I learned to go by mile range not necessary gauge level and just fill up at the 300 mile range message. I am satisfied with the fuel economy i saw and was very satisfied with the performance and power available when needed thanks to the diesel. Overall very satisfied with the performance of this truck as I have had no issues with the drivetrain (knock on wood). Feel free to ask me specific questions and I will answer them as soon as I see them!

So, let me preface this by saying, as of today 8/14/20, no one still makes hood mounted LED pod light mounts for the new body 2019+ Sierra. Suffice to say, I got tired of waiting. So, I bought a set of the APS mounts made for the 2019+ Silverado for $75 online. I figured if I hacked them up and it doesn't work, I'm only out $75. Shipped out right away and got them quick. First thing, these brackets are thick. That was reassuring knowing I'd have to modify them somehow. Second, the brackets are too long for the driver side. The cut right into the wiper arm when it comes full vertical. I took off 1/4" off both brackets but still had to continue grinding the rear-facing edge down until I had clearance on the driver side. I also had to grind down the outer edges that were making contact with the hood closer to the hood line. Luckily, these APS mounts are beefy and can handle the loss of material. Also, the wiper arm that I grinded into is only like $25 to replace, so ill buy that down the line. This took a LOT of trial and error mounting them on the hood, taking them off, grinding more off, refitting, removing, etc. This won't work unless you have a cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, etc. And your trial and error will likely cost you a wiper arm as well.

I Purchased my 2015 silverado z71 crew cab a couple months ago, so far i love the truck accept for one issue that shows itself every once in a while. USUALLY while turning and acceleration lightly at the same time ( lugging the motor pretty much) ill get a very noticable shudder right before the truck FINALLY decides to downshift. Has anyone had a similar issue. Im going to drives my buddies sierra tomorrow and see if i get the same shudder. I have 3600 miles on this truck so i dont think its anything to do with the "adaptive" transmission learning cycle. Ive heard a custom tune can resolve issues but i really hate to do that on this new of a truck, nor do i have anywhere within 400 miles to get it done. New to the forum guys, hope to get some responses, this is my first GM product. Switched from a 2008 tundra with 245000 trouble free miles. Hope i dont regret this purchase

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?

I am trying to find a 2 piece drive shaft for my ‘15 Sierra Double Cab. Where can I find one?

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:

Quick question, what’s everyone’s suggestions for a good set of towing mirrors for my 2019 GMC Sierra? It’s a SLT package and the only option I know of right now is only the clip on style. Thanks

GMC Sierra 2016-2018 Tail Lights and matching 3rd brake light and wiring harnesses $ 700 for the set plus shipping