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Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 5/18/2018 As it turns out, the leaked figures for the 2019 5.3L and 6.2L V8 engines wasn't far off. That's the good news. The bad news is the SAE certified horsepower and torque will match 2018's numbers exactly. But that doesn't mean the 2018 and 2019 engines are the same. Instead of the 2018's Active Fuel Management, which allows the engine to switch between four and eight cylinders, the 2019 V8's have Dynamic Fuel Management. DFM can adjust the firing cylinders in up to 17 different ways. Theoretically, that should mean improved fuel economy at the same power output. Chevrolet hasn't released any fuel economy numbers yet, so that is just a theory. But if you really like the 2018 5.3L V8 and want to buy it again with the 2019 Silverado, fear not. You can option it with a six-speed transmission for WT, LT, and LT Trail Boss trims. -------------------- 2019 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 5.3L WITH DYNAMIC FUEL MANAGEMENT SPECIFICATIONS Type: 5.3L V-8 VVT DI with Dynamic Fuel Management Bore & Stroke (in / mm): 3.78 x 3.62 / 96 x 92 Block Material: Cast aluminum Cylinder Head Material: Cast aluminum Compression Ratio: 11.0:1 Firing Order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 Valvetrain: Overhead valve, two valves per cylinder, variable valve timing Fuel Delivery: Direct high-pressure fuel injection with Dynamic Fuel Management Ignition System: High-energy coil-on-plug Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): 355 / 265 @ 5600 rpm (SAE certified) Torque (lb.-ft. / Nm @ rpm): 383 / 519 @ 4100 rpm (SAE certified) Manufacturing Location Tonawanda Engine Plant, Buffalo, N.Y. 2019 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 6.2L WITH DYNAMIC FUEL MANAGEMENT SPECIFICATIONS Type: 6.2L V-8 VVT DI with Dynamic Fuel Management Bore & Stroke (in / mm): 4.06 x 3.62 / 103.25 x 92 Block Material: Cast aluminum Cylinder Head Material: Cast aluminum Compression Ratio: 11.5:1 Firing Order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 Valvetrain: Overhead valve, two valves per cylinder, variable valve timing Fuel Delivery: Direct high-pressure fuel injection with Dynamic Fuel Management Ignition System: High-energy coil-on-plug Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): 420 / 313 @ 5600 rpm (SAE certified) Torque (lb.-ft. / Nm @ rpm): 460 / 621 @ 4100 rpm (SAE certified) Manufacturing Location Tonawanda, N.Y.
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This is for general information, and documentation, if others have the same or similar problem(s) with their Air Conditioning. So, my AC conked out late-day on a 90+ degree May 26, on a 2017 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab, 6.0L, bought 8/31/2017 (2.5 years old) and almost 55,000 miles (highway mostly). Thought it might be OK the next day, but, no, the compressor was 'screaming'. It took a week to get it into the GMC dealership on Friday, June 5th. Tech diagnosed a leak at the condenser, leak at a hose fitting, and malfunctioning compressor. The compressor, when the AC is off, freewheels. But this one freewheels, then seems to want to engage, the freewheels again, then seems...and so on. Tech said compressor caused high pressure in hose (low pressure hose I think he said?) which cause fitting to leak. In addition, the compressor problem accelerated the condenser leak (known to leak after a while) at a weld joint (left-front). Man, I was pissed. Not at anyone in particular, but the fact that an AC can fail at only 55,000 miles. My 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD, 6.0L, longbed, extended, lasted over 160,000 miles and over 10 years without an AC problem except a recharge. Cost? $1799.24 to fix! (900 parts, and 900 labor for 7.2 hours of work.) I said I'll be contacting GMC corporate, and paid the $66 diagnosis fee (worth it; 0.5 hours of labor). On Monday, I called to pickup a price list with part numbers for the repair so I can use for my case. Well, I looked up the part numbers on Google and found a Chevrolet dealership out of Winston-Salem, gmpartsdirect.com (FLOW of Winston-Salem), selling genuine GM parts for greatly reduced prices. Now, mind you, the dealership may have discounted their prices by 15% if I asked because I bought it there, and GM corporate 'may' have covered half the cost (or maybe full cost?), but it was technically out-of-warranty with the 55,000 miles. BUT, at these gmpartsdirect.com prices, I can get it done myself and save, with labor by myself, about $1200! Obviously, I ordered the parts and will do the job myself... Saves the hassle, aggravation, and arguing with GMC... ba**ards. Wish they would make a decent product again. AC failing this early used to be unheard of. "The New Normal" I guess. Here is the price list, and the dealer's price... -
Hey guys, I know there are about a million different topics about tires but I haven't found an exact answer after days of research. I just picked up a 16 Sierra 1500 Z71 5.3L (Pictured below). This is my daily driver and MPGs are semi important, but I also didn't buy a truck because of its great fuel economy. I come from an old Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi. I am planning on adding a 2-inch leveling kit, mainly for looks, and to have more clearance in the front. From what I've researched, by two best tire options with the stock wheels are 275/60r20 and 275/65r20. 33s and 34s respectively. Most people report no rubbing with either setup. Honestly I just love the look of the 34s way more and they are not that much more price-wise, but they are all E-rated LT and all weight about 15-20lbs more than their 33 counterpart. The most towing I see myself doing is a 6x12 Uhaul and a small 18ft. boat, but I do take my trucks offroading/overlanding and in the snow quite a bit. I also do a lot of highway driving. In reality, I would only gain 0.5" of extra clearance with the 34s, and I am concerned about how much the extra weight will affect my truck's performance, especially with the 5.3. Is there any reason why I should pick the E-rated LT 34s over the lightweight 33s, other than the fact that they look awesome? Could a tuner make up some of the MPG loss? Some report a better ride from E-rated tires, and treads are deeper as well. Thanks!!
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So I would like some advice. I want to level my 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab. I am just out of the factory warranty with 38K miles. I was looking at installing a RC 3/2 leveling kit and have been reading many forums talking about how bad these leveling kits are to the suspension. Not just the RC, but any leveling kit. The kit is the 3" spacer between strut and tower with 2" block on rear. Many of the forums are saying the front suspension will wear out within 10K miles of installing. So I wanted to start a thread and get some opinions on some experiences with these kits. Has anyone had issues with these type of kits? What am I to expect in 10K, 15K, 20K miles to change out due to excessive wear from these kits? I know I will need to do an alignment right after install, but how will the truck ride and wear on the tires with these kits? Are they as bad as I have been reading? I read one thread where someone had to spend $6K to completely replace their IFS suspension from this kit. Was this a one off situation or a very good possibility? I want to get ride of that nose down look and give the truck a much better looking stance for a 4x4 truck. So what other options are there to level or give a slight lift to my truck that will cause as little damage down the road as possible to the suspension? I understand there is always risk when altering a suspension, but there must be some other options that do little damage and still allow a lift or level of the truck. Someone mentioned a body lift, but that still leaves the nose down look of the body. Thoughts?
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Is anyone else having an issue where the automatic start-stop feature on the vehicle stopped working? I just got the truck about 3 weeks ago (Brand New) and this is the only feature giving me an issue. It worked at first, but after driving it a week, it has not worked since. The only modification I have done on the truck is change out the License Plate light bulbs from halogen to LED. I'm at the dealership right now and they can't figure it out, so they are trying to contact GM regarding this issue. No error codes showing up according to them. -
OEM Sierra 2016-2018 Matte Black Brand New, Never Installed Mirror Caps. ready to paint. $ 65.00 plus shipping
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I just got a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax 6.6 L. 4WD. I have been driving a gasoline 8.1L Silverado of same year and size, but 2wd. I know nothing about diesel trucks and want to be sure to take care of it as best i can. Would appreciate any recommendations regarding starting procedures, driving a diesel vs. gasoline, what to be prepared for come winter, ANY suggestions that you may have to help me take the best care of and get the most out of this replacement truck would be greatly appreciated! -
Was talking to a customs shop in my area and asked what they'd recommend for a leveling kit (parts + installation) for my 2014 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71. They reached back out with a quote and said they would choose to install a set of Bilstein 5100 adjustable struts in the front, and that it would gain about 1.85" in the front. They quoted me $569 for everything including alignment, does that seem reasonable? Has anybody on here gone that route with a comparable pickup? All I've seen are 2 or 2.5" leveling kits, would 1.85" be enough to eliminate the factory rake as well as be able to fit 33's one day? If anyone has and could share before and after pictures, that would be great. Thank you -
GMC Sierra OEM All Terrain Wheels with center caps, TPMS Sensors. Less than 500 miles on them. Buyer pays Shipping or local pick up $ 1200.00 set
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Pair of GMC Sierra 2016- 2018 Pair of Mirrors Turn Signals, and Puddle Lights $ 250.00 pair plus shipping
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Banks Ram-Air® Intake System Dry Filter for 2015-2016 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 6.6L Duramax, LML (Item # 42248-D) and a Banks AutoMind Tuner for the 2015-2016 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 (Item # 66411). $275 each or $500 for both!
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Is anyone aware of what is required to install factory fog lights into a 2016 & up Base level Sierra 1500 that didn't have them from factory? Will any scrap of wiring be present? The switch is not there... but can one order a switch, the lights and slap it in? Can the BCM be flashed by a dealership if required? I bought an el cheapo that doesn't have fog lights and the blank inserts drive me bonkers already... so I WILL be filling them in with factory fog lights... it would just be nice to know if I can have them work like factory or not. Otherwise I'll wire them up like jobbers and have a jobber switch. Thanks -
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500. The abs cable on the front driver side is disconnected because of a lift installed. Is there an extension cable or something out there that will connect? I swear I’ve looked everywhere?
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What is the problem with the 2018 Sierra SLT that occasionally when you put in the key and try to turn the ignition on, it won't budge? For a second there I was scared that my truck died, but it finally worked after turning the steering wheel slightly and then turning on the ignition. -
I am the original owner of a 2003 GMC Sierra 3500 dually (DRW). The passenger side fender is broken, the tailgate is bent up, and the bed has some damage from a gooseneck trailer. In short, I am wondering if a complete bed replacement could be accomplished. On craigslist I have seen complete dually beds for sale. I presume the owners are replacing the bed with a flatbed / workbed, since most are zero to a few years old. Does anyone know what years a Chevy or GMC bed will fit as a swap? At its current age and value, I am not concerned about mixing new bed style w/ old cab style.
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Here is a little extra information I found on from GM TechLink with tips and details regarding the lift points on the new T1 GM trucks. Newdude posted something similar in the frame issues topic a while back. I just thought I would add a little extra to that information. Lift Points TIP: Prior to servicing the vehicle using a lift hoist, the vehicle power assist steps must be disabled to prevent accidental activation. Use lift pads/spacers to provide proper clearance between the lift hoist arms and the vehicle’s fixed or power assist steps. After servicing the vehicle, be sure to enable the power assist steps. For lifting the vehicle, various lift points are recommended. (Fig. 13) The lift points are: Circular jack pad Widest point of the frame rail; requires adapter that is wider than the frame rail when using a hoist. Contact your hoist manufacturer for the appropriate adapter. Rear frame contact points Rear axle contact points Differential contact points Fig. 13 For the front locations, the two approved lifting points are the circular jack pad (Fig. 14) and the widest point of the frame rail, which requires an adapter from the hoist manufacturer. (Fig. 15) Fig. 14 Fig. 15 The hoist pads must not contact the rocker panels, the floor pan or, at the front pad location, the front fenders. Lift pad adapters for Challenger and Rotary lifts are available through GM Dealer Equipment. When lifting at the differential (#5) with a floor jack, avoid point loading the center section of the axle, which is aluminum on most rear axles. Use a floor jack with a rubber pad or wood block to prevent damage. -
Just got these custom decal emblems for my WeatherTech liners, and they are LiT! If anyone is interested here is the link to the eBay seller I got them from. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114202843168 -
Just got these custom decal emblems for my WeatherTech liners, and they are LiT! If anyone is interested here is the link to the eBay seller I got them from. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114202843168
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Just got these custom decal emblems for my WeatherTech liners, and they are LiT! If anyone is interested here is the link to the eBay seller I got them from. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114202843168
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First time GMC. Recommendations for Tonneau Cover would be appreciated. If anyone has any real world experience with a lockable Tonneau Cover let me know. I'm going to have so equipment in the back periodically and I subscribe to the old adage "out of sight out of mind". So i want to get something that looks good and performs well. Also, in the past i've switched between Huskey and Weather Tech floor mats in difference vehicles because one had the perfect fit dialed in, and the other was just not quite there. Anyone have a recommendations? 2020 GMC Sierra 2500 Standard Bed. -
Just wanted to post on here, as I have seen no less than a thousand posts with questions about the 6L80E, specifically about the power threshold of a stock unit. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Standard Bed stock 3.42 gears stock drive shaft stock 20" rims/tires 6.2L fully forged top/bottom end "Armageddon Twin Nagasaki's" (GT3582R's) e-boost 2 gauge Z06/LT4 fuel system 365lph in-tank Armageddon fuel pump QTP exhaust cut-outs and laid down 965rwhp/850 rwtq on a mustang dyno with 18psi on 116 race fuel (cut-outs open). I say all of this because the stock transmission detonated the 4-5-6 shaft (intermediate hub) near the splines. I took it to a "race shop" that said they would upgrade as much as they could; and was told at the time, there were limited aftermarket parts available for the 6L80E. This was mid 2018 with less than 10K miles on the truck and about 500 miles on the engine/turbo build and I discovered that was not entirely true. I drove the truck after their work, with "spirited road driving" while the roads were wet no less. Long story short; they f'd me and I detonated the 4-5-6 stock intermediate shaft again within 100 miles and no traction at all. They apparently replaced all parts that were broken with stock parts! Moving on, I took my truck to a different shop and researched my a** off and found PATC Transmissions. I had a warm and fuzzy after speaking with them and ordered the Phoenix Level 4 Master Rebuild kit among a few other minor accoutrements and re-tuning of my TCM by Mike from Century Automotive. It is now APR 2019 and I am about 1 1/2 weeks away from having the my billet planetary gear mailed to me; for the new, more reputable shop in my area to install all of this PATC bada**ery. If anyone is truly interested, I will post new info once I put the new Phoenix Master Rebuild kit through the ringer with the full weight/horsepower/torque of my particular application...I hope this helps if there are some lost souls out there that may be headed down the same long. hard. road. of a "full send" like myself! Please post if you have questions/comments/concerns; as I have "been there done that and forgot the t-shirt" with the L86/6L80E so far.
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First post, new user here! Got out of my first pickup in 2015 due to the Oil crash in Alberta Canada, things are looking better and im getting into a 2020 GMC sierra 1500 elevation crew cab, short box with X31 package. Got a great price on the truck along with 0% financing. GM has a lot of factory accessories that can be added to their trucks. Im for sure going to get the flush fit box cover. Any advise on other upgrades to do right away would be appreciated!! Thanks, Looch
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I own a 04 chevy silverado 1500. The brakes are spongy ( I've bleed them throughly, new everything except booster and master). My work trucks brakes are great 06 Sierra 2500 hd dual piston calipers all the way around same pads as the ones in my chevy. The question is can I upgrade to a dual piston the rear? They currently have the wimpy single piston. If an upgrade is possible do I need to upgrade the Master cylinder to accommodate the extra volume? If so can I just order the 2500 hd master cylinder?
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Long story short I hit a deer and instead of getting it fixed I took the money $2700 after deductible, said duck it and went with a aftermarket bumper, Only 3 photos of this bumper are on the whole internet so now that I got it and installed it here are some photos, I just wanted to give others a idea of what it looks like. HammerHead 600-56-0465 yes it was pricey at $1500 but it was free to me with my fat insurance check trucks stock for right now, only has 1.5” spacers ( supreme suspension brand) will post pictures after I install the lights, lift and level I could probably align the bumper better -
Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
