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Showing results for tags 'Transfer case'.
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hello all, I am sure this issue has been beat to death multiple times, but I cant find the answer. I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 z71, I have had this issue for about 2 years now. the issue being that no matter what part I replace my 4wd wont reliably work. here is a list of what parts have been replaced. Drivers side wheel hub- twice Passenger Side wheel hub- three times Diff. actuator- twice 4 button switch on dash- once TCCM- once Transfer case motor- once So what is happening is, the dash will read service 4wd, i have taken it in to a shop where they have been replacing the parts, and i have come to the conclusion they are just throwing parts at it to find a fix. Every time they would replace a part it will work about 2-3 days but then give me the same service 4wd message. if i push one of the 3 4wd buttons on the switch the light will blink for a while then stop and it seems like it doesn't shift into 4wd. But i have crawled under the truck while someone else selects a 4wd button, I can hear and feel the transfer case changing into to 4wd mode. but the front diff actuator does not engage. I have checked and cleaned the ground wire under the drivers door twice but that doesn't seem to help. I am done throwing money at the shop to fix it, so this is my last resort. any help or ideas is greatly appreciated, Thank you,
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I just replaced the Transfer case encoder motor because it threw a code and my 4wd didnt work at all. Now only 4wd auto works and when i put it in 4hi it is like 2wd. When i select 4wd Low i can feel it in low gear but again it is like its in 2wd. Any suggestions? Thanks
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Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
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Hello, This is a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3l, 4wd push button style, 4L60E transmission, 153k. I have a green fluid leak (T-case fluid) coming from the front axel input shaft seal, drivers side. It obviously gets thrown around all over surrounding components when driven in current condition. The leak will accumulate about 2 or 3 drips on the ground overnight. It's been going on for a good while judging by the amount of fluid caked on everything. I've only driven approximately 50 miles since i noticed issue, all in 2wd. My questions are whether or not i risk significant damage to the case if ONLY driven in 2wd while also adding fluid as needed? Also, is there an "inner" seal in the transfer case that will be exposed when drive shaft is removed from t-case? If so, what is the responsibility of "inner" seal and is there a reason it should also be replaced simultaneously? When i'm in that deep i'd rather do whatever is necessary and logical. Thanks for any help with stated questions and I also love to hear any related advice or experience! Taking it to a shop is not an option as I have little money and major trust issues. Trust issues stemming from several bad experiences in the past and most recently, pertaining to this vehicle. I bought this truck for $6,500, everything is in VERY good shape, recently had a 90k motor installed @ 150k (i purchased it at 152.5k) as a private party transaction from the auto shop owner who installed the second motor. Turns out recently installed engine either has a cracked head or head gasket as the black light test reveals coolant coming from exhaust among other confirmations... AAAGGGHH. That's a completely different story that's being dealt with but figured i'd share my reasons for NOT TAKING IT TO ANYONE mentality. Auto salesmen/mechanics can be total sleezeballs. From now on it's my way or the highway, to my own dismay haha.
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Hello, This is a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3l, 4wd push button style, 4L60E transmission, 153k. I have a green fluid leak (T-case fluid) coming from the front axel input shaft seal, drivers side. It obviously gets thrown around all over surrounding components when driven in current condition. The leak will accumulate about 2 or 3 drips on the ground overnight. It's been going on for a good while judging by the amount of fluid caked on everything. I've only driven approximately 50 miles since i noticed issue, all in 2wd. My questions are whether or not i risk significant damage to the case if ONLY driven in 2wd while also adding fluid as needed? Also, is there an "inner" seal in the transfer case that will be exposed when drive shaft is removed from t-case? If so, what is the responsibility of "inner" seal and is there a reason it should also be replaced simultaneously? When i'm in that deep i'd rather do whatever is necessary and logical. Thanks for any help with stated questions and I also love to hear any related advice or experience! Taking it to a shop is not an option as I have little money and major trust issues. Trust issues stemming from several bad experiences in the past and most recently, pertaining to this vehicle. I bought this truck for $6,500, everything is in VERY good shape, recently had a 90k motor installed @ 150k (i purchased it at 152.5k) as a private party transaction from the auto shop owner who installed the second motor. Turns out recently installed engine either has a cracked head or head gasket as the black light test reveals coolant coming from exhaust among other confirmations... AAAGGGHH. That's a completely different story that's being dealt with but figured i'd share my reasons for NOT TAKING IT TO ANYONE mentality. Auto salesmen/mechanics can be total sleezeballs. From now on it's my way or the highway, to my own dismay haha.
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I need help. I am on transfer case replacement number 6. I have a 2004 gmc Sierra k2500 HD, 6.0 gas. I have used multiple different remanufactured transfer cases from different companies etc. I have even had different mechanics look at it. Most I have for is 12k out of a replacement. I have had driveline checked and balanced, new u joint, new shift module. I have had different driving conditions on all cases such as pavement, towing on pavement, dirt roads, etc. I need help. I can't afford to sell cause it is paid off. Any suggestions????
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I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that has been frustrating me with a "Service 4WD" and a "stability control system disabled". I've been troubleshooting it for a while and I have been doing the various things that I find on the interwebs. Some work for a while and some do nothing. I removed and cleaned some grounding switches under the driver's door. - Nothing changed. I replaced the selector switch next to the steering wheel. - This seemed to work, but then the errors came back. At this point, the drive system started randomly shifted between 2WD and 4H or 4L. I assumed this meant that the encoder motor has gone bad. I purchased and installed a new one and now I only get a red light on the selector switch. I'm not sure if something else is wrong or if I have a bad replacement encoder motor. I have reached out to the online parts store to see what they say and don't have an answer from them yet. I scrolled the forums and went cross-eyed before finding a thread that talks about this. Anyone out there that maybe has gone through the same thing and come out on the other side? Thanks!
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Hi community, I have a 2014 Sierra 2500 4x4 with the 6.0 Gas. I've read and watched some videos about known issues with older GM transfer cases have pump knock that leads to a hole in the case. Is this an issue with 2014 2500s? Thanks for insights. Edit: I should note, have not had an issue with my transfer case at this point. Just want to know because I'm going to be taking apart the drivetran to upgrade the diffs and might as well bullet proof the transfer case if I'm doing the diff work. I've done some more digging and found that GM switched to a new transfer case 07/08, MP1226XHD. My rig has a corresponding RPO code of NQF. Does this transfer case have the issue the older NP cases have? Not alot out there about them.
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Help, I have a 04 GMC Sierra, 4x4, 6.0 gas and I need some help. I will be on transfer case number 5 and cannot figure out why? Originally the first one went out. I got the first one and it needed to be replaced due to the rear seal for the rear driveline was installed wrong. Got the second one and the shift motor went bad and then they sent me a new shift motor and then it started vibrating when on the highway. Went with a different company/manufacture and the same thing has happen. I have had it start vibrating, leaking, etc. I am now looking at TK#5. I have had new U-joints replaced on both ends and had drive line balanced. Any help on where to go from here before I put in number 5 would be greatly appreciated?? What would cause this? Front end seems to disengage when it is jacked in the air, gas mileage has never changed? Help!
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I am wanting to start changing the fluids in my truck since its so much more expensive for the dealership to do it. What fluids do y'all recommend for oil, transfer case, transmission, etc.?
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I changed my front differential and transfer case fluid the other day and I was surprised at how many shavings that were in there. I did it at 3K in order to put my favorite fluids in there. I used Liqui Moly Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the front and Top Tec 1800 (Dexron-VI equivalent) in the transfer case. Most people wouldn't really be doing this as early as I am, but I was bored and my buddy had the differential in his Silvy with 15k on it lock up because the factory didn't fill it enough! So anyway, to my surprise, there were quite a few filings on there, much more than I would expect with a truck with 3k on it. Nothing big on there (no chunks), but the magnet was definitely full on the transfer case. The front differential (which doesn't get exercised much) had little on it. I'll be doing the rear differential when the extra fluid shows up since I underestimated! Edit: I forgot to mention, I also did this because I bought it new and wanted to get any break-in shavings and manufacturing oils out of there.
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What the heck is this on the rear transfer case half and why would it be leaking? Obviously corroded, but why does it go all the way through? Replacement case halves do not show any holes there. Ideas for fix?
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2003 Chevy Silverado 4.3 manual transfer case The owners manual calls for "Dextron-III" ATF fluid for the Transfer Case. I read that Dextron-III has been rebranded/replaced by PN 88861800 (manual transmissions and transfer case fluid). I can't find this anywhere locally, so my question is can I use "Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid"? It says that it is Dextron-III compatable. Thanks for any advise. -
Hey Guys! I bought an 01 sierra 2500hd, 6.0 198xxx. I use it as my daily driver. (:/) Anyways, when in 4 wheel drive, i am hearing and feeling a clunking sound not entiringly unlike that of the cv axels. the sound occurs going straight forward and straight in reverse. higher engine rpm, the faster the clunking. (almost as if a belt was turning faster than a pully.) This sound occurred with and without a goose neck trailer attached. i replaced the cv axels and the problem, noises and feelings continue. well i thought the Transfer case would be the next logical place to look, and since i was doing a tranny flush thought i would take out the Tcase and look inside as well as do a pump rub fix. the inside looks flawless besides the pump clip being broken. I am lost gents. I do not know where to go next. im going to order a the merchant pump rub fix but besides that i dont know where to turn. could the front differential be the problem maker?
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Hello everyone! I recently purchased my first GMC sierra, 4.3l work truck to haul some kayaks and get me through the winter. while driving it home i tested the 4x4 and it all worked, the 4lo was a little clunky to get into but i had no problem engaging it. after a few miles i started hearing a clacking sound, it sounded a lot like a U-joint so i investigated when i got home and found it to be coming from the transfer case. there was a leak at the rear output shaft seal, so i replaced that and went to drain and put fresh fluid in, but to my horror there was almost nothing in there, and what came out was a black thick sludge, so i put fresh fluid in and drained it again. again what came out was better looking than before but still clearly dirty. so i finally put in another 2 quarts of dex IV that the dealer said i should be using, and have been driving it for a day or two less than 50 miles. when today noticed that the shift lever is stuck and i cant move to any of the 4x4 gears. the linkage is free i played with it and it moves around. the things that has me perplexed is that the 4x4 worked after the fluid change. i don't know much about transfer cases, and am hoping someone with more knowledge could point me in the right direction on what my issue could be. sorry for the rambling i was trying to get as much information in as possible that i thought could be helpful.
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My 2002 6.0 AWD Escalade recently starting making loud popping sounds only during acceleration. I had a shop take a look at it and said it was my transfer case. My question is does a 2002 denali xl with 6.0 AWD and so will the transfer case fit my Escalade? The transfer case that came out the Denali is a np149 but will it function correctly on my Escalade? I'm a little confused because I heard I need the Denali vin to make sure it won't blow my transmission?
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Brought my truck into the shop due to a "Service 4wd" light, as well as the selector switch acting up. Mechanic inspected the transfer case, found it shot with a lot of loose slack on the chain. He indicated it was an NP8 transfer case going to a M30 transmission. Could someone help with the part number naming on these? Trying to find a replacement online but don't want to buy the wrong one. Open to recommendations where to find the best refurb/used case as well.
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I've had this 95 GMC K1500 for a few years now and haven't had use of my 4 wheel drive for most of the time. When I bought the truck I could shift into 4H but it was difficult. To shift into 4L was nearly impossible. By the time winter rolled around I tried to throw it in 4H and the lever wouldn't budge. The shifter is completely locked in 2H. Any idea what the issue could be? I haven't been able to find much on this issue. Thanks. -
I feel pretty certain that I know what the problem is but I just want some feedback from others before I carry this truck to get worked on they can't figure out the problem and I end up paying someone to chase a problem that isn't there. With that said here is what happened: I pulled the truck into my gravel driveway and stopped the truck with the wheels turn full lock to the right. Turned the truck off and it sat there for approximately 20-30 minutes and then I went to leave. Up until this point, I have not noticed any issues with my driveline other than U-joints (which have been replaced) since I had the transmission rebuilt at 200,000 miles (Truck currently has 228,000 miles on it). When I put the truck in drive it begin to roll forward but something got it in a bind and it stopped so I gave it a little gas and it jerked/clunked forward (not real sure how to describe the noise). I stopped and put the transmission into reverse and it rolled backwards about 6 inches and got in a bind and stopped rolling again so I gave it a little gas and it made the same clunking/gear binding noise. I parked it right there and got in my other truck since I was in a hurry and left. Came back to mess with the truck a few days later and put it in drive and it rolled forward and clunked/jumped twice and I hadn't had the issue again until today. Drove over to a relatives house and pulled up into the driveway and stopped to back into a carport on the side of the driveway. Put the truck in reverse and it rolled about 6 inches and got in a bind and I had to basically rock the truck back in forth in drive and reverse to get it rolling again with out making the binding/grinding noises. Got it rolling forward after about 2-3 minutes of rocking it back and forth and problem went away so I drove it straight home and got my other truck and came back. I think the problem is in the transfer case. Either loose chain or worn sprockets/gears but I just want to hear what you guys think before I carry it somewhere to have them work on it since I haven't figured out how to recreate the problem on demand and since it is intermittent. Thanks in advance for help/suggestions and if you think it may be something completely different causing the issue please let me know. Background on the truck: rebuilt transmission stronger than stock at 200k, new U-joints at 210k, new rear end bearings and differential inspection at 220k (no signs of wearing in differential). -
I have a truck with a manual stick shifted transfer case. I'm pretty sure that the shift knob is a push on, not a thread on and I'd like to change the shift knob to a custom one just to be different. All of the custom shift knobs I've spotted are threaded on. Anyone do this and find a good selection of custom push on knobs? -
So I got myself a 2002 :gmc:Yukon Denali XL a while back and the transfer case was acting up. The "dealer" changed it out for a used one and it took the problem away BUT...Gave me two more problems and now the "dealer" says theres nothing more he will/can do. So after they replaced the transfer case it gained 2 problems.. #1.The truck will now roll while in park #2.The truck will howl/while only during acceleration. Felt like it was slipping. 3 weeks ago the transfer case goes out while on steep grade.Full on perma-neutral! I buy a rebuilt one from Transfer Case Express in oakland Ca.(Great customer service btw) So I just installed it this sunday. Tested it out..all was GREAT! No problems like before! Today I take the truck out and I go a little further from home and park at a store and I notice its rolling in park again. A little while later on my way home I roll the windows down and hit the gas from the light and hear that same ol howl/whine!! This time its not as bad. Im at a loss for words at this point...im not a well off guy..the $1000 for the transfer case killed me. So at this point im just looking for some help on the situation.
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Hello everyone it's my first time posting here!, I drive a 2004 sierra 2500LD Crew cab with the 6L and 4x4. I have been hearing a clunking lately from under my truck towards the front, Upon investigation I found a hole in my Transfer Case! Go figure!. The dreaded pump rub hole. Now of couse I checked alot of other components for where this knocking sound came from, Items like sway bar links/bushing, front end CV axles, Ball joints, front diff mounts, transmission/transfer case mounts, steering shaft and others aswell. Then I looked at the Transfer Case itself (drawing my attention as its covered in fluid/other muck) I had done some research on these dreaded GM Transfer Cases and knew where to look the the rub hole. Sure enough I found one, I had the rear end on jack stands and spun the rear drive shaft by hand. I believe I have found my clunk source! It's a terrible sound coming from within the transfer case itself. I didn't check if it had fluid it was pretty obvious that it's already bone dry or close to it, I have been driving this truck as a dailey driver for quite awhile now and it's probably racked up alot of miles with this condition. With all that said here's my questions. Should I find someone to help me rebuild this thing? (I would need to replace alot of components inside I imagine) Or find one in the scrapyard and do the aftermarket pump replacement which cures this problem (I would be taking a gamble if the components inside are any good) I'm not willing to buy one already rebuilt from a company as their prices are steep and just to ship my old one to them for core would be outrageously expensive. I'm not afraid to tear into this myself but I would much prefer someone with knowledge/experience on these items, I do have most tools required except good snap ring pliers and tools needed for the bearings. If anyone has any good suggestions as to cheap options that would be great! I would love to find someone local that has done these and pay them to help me rebuild it! If I left any information out let me know and I'll promptly post a response Also I do have photos of this Transfer Case and it's tag but my images are too large to upload It is a GM 246 Happy trucking!
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I have a 99 sierra 1500 that is stuck in four low. My wife was stuck in some snow and when she tried to shift into 4x4 it did not go immediately( this has happened before, I think it's the selector switch. it sometimes takes a few pushes) In her infinite wisdom and lack of patience she pushed all of the buttons repeatedly. The truck managed to shift into four low even though she was not in neutral. since then the selector switch lights have been out and no shifting out of four low. I replaced the selector switch and still no lights or shifting, though the lights flash once when the key is turned on. I also changed the actuator but still no dice. any ideas? TCCM? transfer case motor?
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Hello, I posted a reply to a different topic, so I coming in to place a real post. I recently discovered that the ticking sound that was coming from underneath my truck was coming from the transfer case. It was not showing any signs of leaking fluid (drops on ground, etc.), but it only had a few drops in it when I discovered the noise. I don't know how long it has been empty. I filled it and drove it a few miles. It was wet when I returned home. I found a pinhole leak which I plugged/patched with JB-Weld. It is not leaking now, but I'm noticing some roughness in driving. Should I have mine rebuilt?--> There's no telling how much damage has been done since it has been run without fluid for who know how long. It will need the rear housing repaired/reinforced. Will probably need chain,gears, etc. Should I buy a rebuilt one?--> Who is recommended? If I wanted to get one from a salvage yard and rebuild it, which one would I get? I have a New Process 246, but I understand there are different ones for the type of transmission I have. How do I know which transmission I have? I looked and I cannot see any stickers from underneath. It is my only mode of transportation, so I need to have my ducks on a row before I take a plunge.
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I just bought a 2002 silverado 1500 with 198k When the button for 4wd is pressed it makes a noise around the tcase, and the light switches from 2wd to 4hi for 4lo. if you try moving only the back wheels spin. Not really sure where to start looking on these, I moved from jeeps to this truck and am so lost.
