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Showing results for tags 'Transmission'.
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I tow a 5000 pound travel trailor and the canyon does great! My question refers to tranny temp during grade climbing. The canyon will hit temps over 200! Some say this is normal but would a tranny cooler work in this situation?
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1996 GMC K3500 4x4 7.4 &4l80e trans wont go into OD. I can stop put it in 4 low pull forward till it shifts stop go back to 2 wheel then most times it will shift into OD like normal. But once I stop I then have to do this all over again. The truck came with a power chips tunner and code reader. I set everything back to factory. I have a reuilt 7.4 from S & J engines. The tranny is original as far as I know with about 140,000 miles on it. It isn't showing any codes. Any help would be GREAT!!!!!
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Okay, so I've searched as best I could and didn't come across a topic on this. Apologies if I missed something. My '14 Silverado 5.3 has 28,000 miles on it now (got it at 26,000) and since then there has been a strange humming or whining noise coming from what I deduce must be the torque converter. It can be heard in park when revving and in drive under acceleration or just cruising a parking lot, most noticeably in the lower RPM range in all cases. I wish I had noticed this at the dealership, but I was not paying attention. The noise is worse at times, but always present. This is clearly an issue, I mean the thing sounds like a 15 year old Trailblazer whining around a parking lot and that's pretty unacceptable for such a new vehicle. I only plan on keeping this truck for a year or so and stepping up to a '16 or '17 Silverado/Sierra when finances allow (see my novel of a intro in the new member forums...), but its still a nice truck and I want it to act and sound like it should. Has anyone else had TC or Trans issues on their 6 speed trucks? Is the dealer going to give me the "normal operating conditions" line of bs? Thanks y'all. -Max
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John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 5/17/2016 The expectation is that with every additional new item on any performance vehicle the new part is great. The new Chevy 10-speed automatic transmission may well be, but having had some time in a ZL1 Camaro, the first car it will be used in, I want to know why. On paper, it sure sounds good. "Faster shifting than a Porsche PDK." That sounds like a good thing for sure. Chevy says, "Testing has shown faster upshift times than the Porsche PDK dual-clutch transmission. In fact, the 1-2 upshift is 36-percent quicker than the PDK, while the 2-3 and 3-4 upshifts are 27-percent and 26-percent quicker, respectively." Hard to argue that a faster shift in a sports car isn't a great thing, particularly on the way up the gears. Same size as the outgoing eight-speed trans. Another GM quote says, "Creative packaging solutions, which had to accommodate another clutch in comparison to the eight-speed, allow the 10-speed to be the approximate size of Camaro’s other eight-speed transmission." Hey, with a wider gear spread and a better highway gear for more fuel efficiency, why not? On the other hand...Why do I care about the highway fuel efficiency of my track-ready Camaro ZL1? Sure, I want the faster up-shifts, but couldn't that have been achieved with the same 8-speed? Here's my problem with a 10-speed auto in an ultra-high performance car. I don't want more gears. I cannot understand what to do with 10 gears in a supercharged car with insane torque and 640 hp. I have driven the ZL1 at media track days on multiple occasions. The track is considered long. On that track I never-ever use any gear above 4 in any Chevy performance car, be it a Corvette, Camaro ZL1 or Z28, or CTS-V. So on the track, the added six gears are useless to me. Around the track are the best mountain roads in the Northeast. They have an incredible speed limit of 55 MPH (show me a higher speed limit on any non-highway road East of the Mississippi). These are not highways, but one lane in each direction rural roads with sharp turns, long sweepers, and awesome elevation changes. On these roads, I love to use the paddle shifters to control the torque and put the car in the gear I want. I don't need more than three gears here, but I might use as many as four. Again, why do I need 10? I asked Chevy by e-mail if there is a lock-out like Lexus uses on its performance vehicles that locks out the trans above a certain gear. The point of that is to negate having to downshift from 10 to 3 if you want to control the shifts using the paddles. "No" was the answer. Chevy says it will put this rear-drive style trans into more vehicles in two years. That means your truck. Tell me why a truck with 10 gears is better than one with six. Then tell me why a CVT isn't better than 10. I'm a person with an open mind.
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Howdy, I own a 2010 Silverado that is doing some weird stuff. First off, let me tell you the mods that are done: Yank 2800 Stall, TSP long tubes, Borla Cat-Back system, K&N cold air intake, some random after market spark plug wires that came off a 2011 Camaro SS, and it has a custom tune done with HP tuners. This is a 5.3 LC9 with a 6l80 transmission (with stock clutches besides the stall). Now let me tell you the issue. If I am cruising at low speeds and mash into the gas it will sometimes wig out. It shoots the rpm's to 6k and unlocks and locks the doors (almost like it's trying to throw it in park). This doesn't happen all the time, only at low speeds and if I haven't touched the gas in awhile. I'm almost ready to pull the converter off and throw the stock one back on, but part of me thinks it might be an electrical issue. I had the transmission pulled out and the stall rebuilt back in December and my transmission guy said it's one of cleanest 6l80's he has ever seen, so I'm hoping its not my clutches. Let me know if y'all know anything about this type of problem, but everyone I've talked to so far has no clue. This sucks because I was planning on doing a TSP cam and DOD delete this summer, but that will have to wait! -David
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Hey all, recently picked up my 2016 all terrain, it has the 5.3 8 speed, love my truck love all the sierra's I've owned 2012, 2014. I notice at low speeds with new transmission it's a bit.. Clunky as it seems to change gears to quick, straight away no problem however turning out of driveway or turns at low speeds it's noticeable .. I can live with this.. However last 2 trucks have been tanks for winter driving, with blizzaks they didn't move, wonder how this will affect next winter driving? Mainly accelerating and such.. Any insight on the 8-speed for winter conditions?
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I have a 2015 Chevy Silverardo 2500HD that is about a year old with 14k miles. Since it was a couple of months old it developed a drivetrain vibration, between 30 and 50 MPH. Between these speeds everything is fine until you apply a slight acceleration to the gas, usually when going up a slight grade, the vehicle has a significant vibration in the drivetrain. If you let off the gas, it stops. If you increase the gas until it downshifts, it stops. No vibrations of any kind at faster or slower speeds outside this range. I have had it to the dealer several times over the past 6 months. Each time they have acknowledged the problem. First they thought it was a tire out of balance- Did not fix the problem Then they put it on a lift and took the driveshaft off and claimed the vibration stopped so they rotated the driveshaft 180 degrees and re-installed- Did not fix the problem Then they claimed the drive shaft was defective and ordered a new one- Did not fix the problem. Today they had thier "transmission guy" test drive it and he determined that it is a know issue GM has with the Fuel Management System and the Cylinder Deactivation System. GM knows about the problem, but to date does not have a fix, and there is nothing they can do to help me. I questioned the Service Manager that I didn't think the 6.0L even had cylinder deactivation (thats a 1500 feature) and he asurred me it did and there is a reading next to the odometer that tells me how many cylinders the engine in running on. When I asked him to show me the indicator he jumped in the truck and said "huh it should be right there", then said "well thats what the mechanic told me". Anybody had or heard of this issue? Anybody know if a 2015 6.0L has cylinder deactivation? Any suggestions are appreciated... -
(Continuation of reply in Transmission Issues/Problems) My 2016 LTZ Crew Cab Z71 with an 8-speed & 3.42 rear end was doing its own version of the clunky marginal shifting described in several other threads on this forum. I never found the shift behavior of the transmission unbearable, but there were times where it would get extremely confused as to what it should be doing from first to second gear. It was something I was planning on bringing up at my first oil change, but it turns out that was not necessary; my truck decided it was done shifting at 4100 miles on the odo. I pulled up behind a car waiting in the left turn lane of a busy intersection. After a couple seconds, arrow turns green, car in front of me starts going, I hit the gas, and the engine winds up like I'm in neutral, and I'm not going anywhere. I shift to park, back to drive, into reverse, into AWD, no dice. Having heard no telltale clunk or pop, I figure it's an electrical issue, so I pull the negative battery cable off the post, but no luck with the hard reset. I end up having to get my truck towed to the dealership. Service Coordinator calls me a couple days later with what he says is good news. Turns out that "good news" is that they are going to put a brand new transmission on my truck. I asked if the pan had any large filings or chunks of metal, and it did not, nor did the input shaft show any signs of damage. According to the technician, no apparent sign of mechanical failure. GM wants the tranny back for inspection, so now I'm going to have to wait another week for them to get a transmission in from Detroit. Just thought I'd share that story. Hopefully this doesn't happen to any of y'all. I'm not a big fan of having to explain to my coworkers and buddies the reason why I'm driving around a Chevy Equinox.
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I have a stock 2008 Silveardo Crew cab LT, with a 5.3l motor. Truck is currently getting a used motor installed in it due to knocking, oil pressure, and oil lose (fun right). Well once I get a new motor (used) with 50k miles on it I was planning on dropping like 3k of parts into it to make it faster. My only concern is my transmission, will it hold up? Upgrades: Cams Headers Intake Injectors exhaust Tune All on a stock tranny, is this possible or will this be a quick way to find my truck in the shop?
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I have a 2002 GMC Sierra and the transmission made a growling noise for the first time. I backed up and same noise. I went forward again and when it shifted to the next gear it was quiet. When it down shifted to low at a stop light same noise. Does this sound like a fix it problem as in a repair or the tranny needs to be rebuilt problem?
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I was wondering if anyone knew the difference between the syncromesh transmission oil and regular gear oil?
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Does any one with a 2015 4wd 5.3 crewcab get a clunk from accel and decel? I have been reading about the slip yoke clunk between lower gears like 2-3rd. but mine does it between 5-6 gear -
Got a 2000 silverado with 5.3 just picked up. Driving it home at 55 to 70 it would shift out of overdrive under no load but get to a hill and would go into overdrive and stay there unless really hammer on her then would shift to like 3rd. At 70 under load its at about 1600 rpm and under no load it's at like 2000 ram once push on gas then shifts down to overdrive to the 1500 1600 rpm range
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Sitting storage wheels lockup seized brakes differential transmission issues emergency brake release skidded to stop 2 two years cold weather moisture -
Hello. Just so you know, i am new to these forums. anyhow, I have a 2006 sierra with 5.3 vortec. Love spinning tires and such, which sadly has led me to have to put a new transmission in. Considering i am 17 years old, with what i think is a decent amount of experience with mechanics throughout my life, i tackled the job myself in my dads garage. The was Tranny put in good, shifts correctly and everything proper temperature, oil level and all. passed inspection for warranty, but...heres the issue... at idle it makes a ticking sound. The sound seems to be in sync with the RPM - as i rev the engine the ticking accelerates. I pulled the starter and double checked the torque converter bolts, they are tight as possible. I am stumped. WTF is the issue here? could it be the plastics on the sides of the transmission somehow (plastic around starter and by oil filter) ? Any advice would be great! thanks!
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I left a secondary car sitting for two years. Today, I returned the battery to the truck and started it. After two cold Michigan winters, it started with little hesitation. I put the truck in drive and started moving down the drive way. Everything seemed normal until seconds later and about 15 feet, the truck jerked to a stop. I shifted into reverse and shifting felt normal. Again it locked up. I tried to go forward but this only resulted in squeling the rear wheels. The rear wheels where moving (for sure on one side). After a while, I decided to play with the emergency brake. If I compressed the pedal and then released it, the truck would move forward like normal but only a few feet this time. I tried the same in reverse but it didn't move anywhere. I was thinking this is the result of seized calipers, gears/teeth loose in the differential, or the worst of my worries transmission issues. Anyone have this happen to them or know someone it has happened to? I'll be taking off the wheels soon to see if I can spot the problem. Let me know if you think of what the problem could be or ideas on what to check. Thanks!
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This is my first post so far but I'm tired of searching through the Internet for solutions and figured Id make an account. I have a 96 Chevy k1500 200k with a swapped motor 5.7 Vortec that I'm not sure how many miles are on it. I was driving the other day and the truck refused to shift out of second gear. It did a few times but hardly ever. This is the first time that this has happened. It stayed at right around 4-5000 rpms the entire time. About ten minutes from home the temp gauge shot up and ,axed out. I pulled over right away and turned the truck off. Radiator fluid was everywhere. I had buddies come bring me water and follow me home. After getting home I took my radiator off and cleaned it real good. Mind you I just bought this truck off a guy not too long ago. The radiator was full of gunk. I took hoses off and cleaned real good. One has was damn near clogged completely I cleaned it out good and the coolant tank real good. When I start the truck now it leaks like a waterfall out the back of the engine by the passenger side. That is just letting it run without driving it or anything. It leaks coolant out. My question is what would cause my tranny to not wanna shift like that? Do I need a new transmission?? Tranny filter and fluid change??? Or rebuild?? Also do I have a head gasket blown that is leaking coolant real bad??? It's hard to see up in there but that's kinda what it looks like. It leaks real bad. Or could it be a bad water pump??? I'm not a mechanic or even close but I like doing just about anything I can on my own. I have a 20x40 pool barn I do my work in. Any responses would help. I need the truck to haul wood to heat my home. Anything will be useful. Like I said this is my first post on a forum im very new to this, but I could really use some help. Iv checked my hoses and radiator they are fine besides the gunk which I cleaned out but the entire system could probably use multiple flushes. Thanks for any help guys -
hello everyone I have a 97 GMC Sierra with a 305 and electronic shift trans it has a lot of issues that I'm trying to sort out first of all on cold start it idles super low (200- 400 rpms) for a few seconds and then picks up and shudders and shakes for a minuet then goes to normal idle once it warms up it stars to drop to low rpms (any where between 100 to 400) and dies out when I rev it it revs super slow and hesitates when I go to drive it it falls on its face on take off it kinda cuts out at first but slowly and I mean slowly picks up speed all the while it back fires and slightly lunges now once I get moving the trans doesnt want to shift until I let off the gas no matter the throttle position and the speedometer jumps around like crazy and never shows my correct speed the brake and ABS light are on sometimes they go off but normally on look at the videos to see how bad it is any help would be great so far I have replaced the plugs and wires cleaned the cap replaced the button and the TPS cleaned the MAF sensor and cleaned the trans speed sensor videos: -
Well the saga continues for issues with my 2014 Silverado 5.3 LT Z71 that I purchased in December of 2013. Originally took my truck into the dealer for a flashing check engine light and rough idle along with rough shift from 1st to 2nd gear. The check engine light was a coil that was bad in the number #8 cylinder. Truck only had 9000 miles on it. They said they could not replicate the issue with the transmission (typical response from what I am seeing on the forms.) This whole time having my truck for 9 days. Still have the issue with the rough shift and idle. A week after my truck was returned my door actuator went out on my front passenger side door. After that was fixed another week went by and my front driver side door actuator went out. I took my truck in today because of another check engine light, the truck idling rough, the shift from 1st to 2nd being rough, my seatbelts on both front seats always locking at all speeds (only way to disengage the lock is to completely remove seatbelt), and my usb plug in in my center console not working. My truck has 40,000 miles on it. I was told the check engine light was a bad fuel tank pressure sensor. I was informed since I was 4,000 miles over my bumper to bumper warranty that it was not covered and would cost around $650 to repair even though I have only owned the truck for a little over a year and a half. Left the dealership in a rental as they did not have the time today to diagnose the transmission issue(only after sitting at the dealership for 3 and a half hours only to run the code). So now I am out of my truck again for who knows how long. Both rentals I have had are the same package as mine. Both rentals have not had the issues with rough idle or shifting either. It's ridiculous that I am having all of these issues on a truck that I bought brand new. I bought a brand new truck to have peace of mind that I would not have any problems and frankly all I have had with this 2014 5.3 Silverado is problems(with no answers). Starting to get old real quick. (Side note this does not involve all of the safety recalls that I have had to go to the dealership for. Airbags, transmission connectors, computer reflash etc.) -
At about 5,000 miles, our 2015 GMC Yukon XL SLT started to shudder and hesitate when stopped at a stoplight. We are now at 17,000 miles and the problem has gotten worse. Feels like the vehicle is about to stall. We are using the correct fuel type. Each visit to GMC dealer says that they have not received a repair bulletin from GM although they are asking for one. I am not the only one with this issue, but GM refuses to address the problem and come up with a fix. Last time they did something to the engine mounts (an existing repair bulletin) but it did not fix the issue at all. If you are having this same issue please join a forum and report the problem. Please also report the problem to your dealer. We are very unhappy that a new vehicle has this issue. Maybe the transmission needs to be replaced? The shuddering happens less if we put the vehicle in park at a stoplight, but it still happens. How long could this vehicle possibly last if within 5,000 miles there is this issue. Now at 17,000 miles the shuddering is getting even worse. But still no fix from GM. I thought we were "Professional Grade". Any comments or suggestions appreciated, but whatever GM has already put out there is not helping anything. I can't believe we spent that kind of money and have this issue. -
Hello everyone! I recently just put on a 6 in bds kit and 35 in tires. I was just wondering what everyone's average transmission temperature is after their lift and tires. I have a 5.3 and 3.42 gears and I'm averaging around 190 degrees- 196 degrees in 90 degree weather. I'm just curious and as always all replies are greatly appreciated! -
Hey guys, I've had this noise occurring for over a year now, I cannot nail it down. Anytime torque is applied to the drivetrain there is a cracking/sizzling sound for a few seconds coming from the transmission/transfer case/torque converter (not exactly sure yet). The sound is most noticeable when shifting between drive and reverse or after releasing brakes and accelerating from a stop light. I do not believe it is the the flexplate, I also removed driveshaft to check u-joints and they seemed good. It could be engine or tranny mounts but not sure. Anyone with Ideas is welcome to comment! Thanks. here is the video. the sound occurs at 9, 24, 33, and 41 seconds. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8nwWtPD9JL6QTlrOGNxdVVUWnM/view?usp=sharing -
A few weeks ago, I noticed it was acting sluggish. Shortly thereafter, I lost all acceleration in drive. I pulled over, tried R, still with no acceleration. The vehicle also wouldn't go into park. It seemed to be stuck in neutral. My husband was able to get it moving in 4WD. Took to mechanic, no codes thrown, no issues found, began working in 2WD again, was told to keep driving it. It "clunks" when shifting between P/R/N/D in 2WD. Yesterday, the Yukon switched to Auto 4WD. I switched it back to 2WD. It took 5 miles, but I experienced the same problem. This time I was unable to completely turn off the ignition. I could switch it back one click to battery, but not remove the key. To get it running, I had to - Switch to N - Turn on car - Switch to D - Switch to 4WD When I switched to 4WD, the truck lurched like it had been rear ended (not a fun experience). I was able to limp it home - it didn't want to accelerate or make turns. My mechanic isn't really sure what the issue is, and I'm not up for the "replace parts until it works" game. Any ideas? -
All the DIY on utube on this topic is for the 99-06 models. GM has changed some of the plumbing down there. Some say that you have to unbolt the Y pipe from the exhaust manifold. They also say that you have to remove the two torx bolts to remove the transmission cable shift bracket to get enough clearance to drop the pan. Can you skip all this and just unbolt the pan like the the old days? Has anyone done this on a 2nd gen? What size are the torx bolts? Thanks! -
ive got an 03 sierra 1500 4.8 4l60e myobd2 reader is showing torque converter clutch circuit/open shift solenoid A and B electrical shift timing solenoid tcc pwm solenoid circuit electrical trans was working fine, was doing routine fluid checks and seen trans was a little low so put about half a quart in (don't think I overfilled it and if I did it wasn't by much). now it doesn't seem to have 1st gear, when I manually shift it I don't feel it shift from 1st to 2nd, I feel it shift from 2nd to 3rd and I don't feel it shift into 4th (55mph tach reads 3000rpm). I put the scanner on it and got the above codes. I haven't pulled the pan off yet to inspect the inside. (plan on doing that this weekend) I did inspect the wiring on the out side and it seems fine. what do you all think, did my wiring on the inside take a dump, or can one solenoid or whatever be effecting all the crap inside the trans. it seems to be just an electrical issue judging by the code reader. thanks for the help and info.
