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Showing results for tags 'Transmission'.
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I'm posting the factory service manuals for GMC/GM 2007-2009 trucks as there are a ton of questions around specs and trouble shooting. This manual covers everything you need to trouble shoot and all the specs you need to rebuild/repair your truck.
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So when the truck was newer I used 4x4 a few times and it would make almost a metallic grinding noise when turning. I took it into the dealership multiple times trying to get a fix and they kept saying there was no fix. So be it. It works still even with the noise. This truck was always maintained by the dealership until 80k miles. At 72kmiles the check engine light came on almost out of no where and I took it to the dealership to find out the injectors were bad! What the heck! Then andother 8k later the rear differential started leaking oil and I had to replace that. That was fun 4K into a 2015 truck in the same year in repairs that shouldn’t have happened that early in the trucks life. Thennnnnnnnn at 104k the transmission went out!!!! What in the heck! All of these repairs were done in a 9 month period. 10k into a 4 year old truck. I’m very disappointed in this truck. I always kept up on oil changes and most maintenance. I did not flush the transmission at 60 but that still should not have put my transmission out at 100k. I have towed about 4K max behind this truck less then 8 times for no more then a total of 200 miles so I’m not rough on the transmission. I’ve also only had it off-road 1x early on in its life so definitely not had a rough life. Almost 60% of the miles are freeway miles. These problems should not be happening to a Chevy truck. I’m really disappointed. All my ford friends have given me so much Crapp and honestly, I may as well have bought a cheaper not as well designed truck and saved myself about 10-15% on the ford truck. Not sure if there’s any possibility of gettting any of that 10k covered from Chevy but that would really make me think a lot higher of the brand. -
Hey guys, I want to work on my truck and upgrade it but i dont know what i should do. What are some things you have done to your engine and drive train to enhance performance and add durability? *I drive a 2014 LTZ 5.3
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I did a quick search and couldn't find anyone with my problem. The 8 speed trans in my 2017 Denali is increasingly shifting hard into first gear. Occasionally it will shift hard while slowly coming to a stop at a signal during normal around town driving. The other day I made a left turn slowly onto a street with an incline. When I applied a light amount of power, it shifted so hard into first that my head hit the head rest. When mentioning hard shifting to the dealer, they say that it is the nature of the beast. I sold my 2011 Denali to my son. I am really missing the 6 speed trans. Has anyone else had this problem and found a fix? Thanks everyone Jerry -
I've been lurking on the forum for a while, and have gained a lot of valuable information from everyone. I wish my first post was under better circumstances. I recently purchased a brand new 2018 GMC Sierra SLT with premium plus package. I've driven a Jeep for the past several years, and recently brought home a second german shorthaired pointer. It's hard to fit two kennels in a Jeep, let alone all of my hunting gear, so enter the truck. I was thrilled about the closeout deals on 2018 Sierras in my area, and here we are. It is a 5.3L with 8 speed auto. Yesterday I was driving home in traffic at about 50 mph. The truck currently has only 1000 miles. I see smoke out the back and begin losing power. Wound up in the center lane, still have oil pressure and engine is on... no power to the wheels in drive or reverse. Step out of the truck and see a long trail of fluid and then pool of red underneath the truck. I know its transmission. I called GM roadside and got a tow to the dealership in about an hour (kudos GM.) This morning they get the truck into service and initially tell me it is a blown transmission cooler line. They state that they have ordered a new line and will throw that on there with new fluid and all will be good as new. What are your thoughts? I don't know how long I drove before the failure of the cooler line, but anticipate not very far given how fast it drained dry. I've already lost trust in this truck, and curious how to ensure either satisfactory repair or replacement. A new hose and flush, without opening the trans, makes me nervous. What potential damage could happen to the transmission in this circumstance? Thanks, y'all. -
I have a 2000 silverado 2wd with a 4l60e had the trans rebuilt like 20k who and started having a rough shift in 1-2, 2-3 read up on it so I replaced the tcc valve with the new oversized one now it only did it after I would drive for about 30min read a little more and saw that the tcc solenoid is a normal problem so I replaced it and now it only shifts hard going into 1-2 anyone have any ideas not sure what else to do or to check but shifts good until i drive for over 30 min
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Hi everybody, Just bought my first GMC a week ago. It is a 2016 with 55,000 miles 5.3 SLT 4x4 with Z71. I looked the car over pretty good but noticed something after we got home. Is this the common leaking crimps I have been learning about on these vehicles with transmission lines? I have to crawl under the vehicle this weekend but this was the picture I was able to get. The gunk had no smell to it at all. And not sure if the Rancho shocks are completely shot on this Z71 package but on the highway and my first speed bump the words....Old Cadillac came to mind about how much it wallows. Thanks everybody for your time....
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Hey guys, I have a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ with the 5.3 L engine. Truck has over 300,000 km now. Just fixing up some odds and ends on it, and I noticed I have some red transmission fluid dripping from the small inspection hole at the rear part of the transmission bellhousing (right before the pan). I have attached a picture. Any ideas where this would be coming from? Thank you!
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I am looking for help. I was towing a light trailer over the weekend and used my trailer assist for heavy traffic. On my way to returning the empty trailer an issue arose. First, I was at a stop light when I proceeded to go I hear a small thud followed by about 3 squeaks and it went away. Not thinking much of it because I thought it was the trailer. Upon heading home I was coming to a stop sign at the bottom of a large hill and then a loud THUD come from the rear end. Pulled over and did an inspection but found nothing. I made an appointment with the Chevy dealership for today. Upon taking it there, I heard three loud bangs about 100 feet apart, also from the rear end area. Chevy dealership said they didnt find anything and to not use trailer assist for light loads. As I was leaving the dealership, I came to another stop sign, this time, I took my foot of the brake and the truck stayed in place while on drive, I am also going down a hill when this happened. I gave it gas and there was another loud pop then a "release" of the truck. I have no clue what the hell is going on here. Seems to shift and stop fine. I'm scared to drive this truck anywhere.
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Hello, Borat here. I have 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 with 80,000 miles. HIGH FIVE! But it have problem. I have noticed sometimes when accelerating(on ramp getting on high way) there is a whining/gear grinding type sound. I can only force it to happen by punching the accelerator and causing it to shift from 4 or 5 into 2 or 3. It sporadically happens at low speeds but I’ve been able to replicate it happening around 70mph and hard acceleration. See video below for sound. https://youtu.be/9L2obt0J2eg -
IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WITH A HIGH MILIAGE GMC CANYON 8 SPEED - HOW MANY MILES? Or Colorado of corse. I had to have the torque converter replaced. It seems to be doing fine now but only 17,000 mi. on it and only 2,000 of those with the new torque converter. heard of several starting to shudder again after a while. I'm trying to figure out if this truck is worth keeping or I should get rid of it while its newer and worth more money? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance for your response. -
Hey guys looking for all the advice I can get. I have done a fair bit of research already. However, I am going to change the transmission fluid in my 2007 (New Body) Silverado. If it matters it is a 4.8 V8, 4x4, regular cab and long bed. 1.) I do not know exactly what filter kit I need. I went by Advanced Auto Parts and the guy told me you usually count the bolts on the pan but he said for this specific model there are two different ones. I called General Motors and talked to what I am guessing is a foreigner that lives in another country. I gave him my VIN and he could not tell me what I needed to know. Does anyone happen to know which one I need? 2.) My truck has 95,000 on it and to be honest he oil does not look good. When I pull the dipstick out and wipe it off it is pretty black/burnt but there is definitely still a little red to it. I was told that if it was in really bad shape not to change it because I know I can risk damage. I know this is true but not sure if it has been neglected to that point. It is sort of weird that I can still see red meaning someone might have dropped the pan at one point and added oil in. I bought the truck used. To try and keep this short I will say I am pretty well researched from YouTube and other forums. However, any advice from people that have a similar truck to mine would be greatly appreciated. For instance, I know that I am going to have to drop the exhaust to remove the pan. Just so you guys know I plan to remove the transmission in line to the radiator and let it pump out as much as it wants. After it stops I am going to put it back together, drop the exhaust, drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket, then put it back together. Also when I go to get a plastic hose to guide the old oil out does anyone know what size hose is a good fit for my truck? Also where can I buy it, my local auto parts store? I appreciate any help in advance.
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Hey I will try to keep this short and to the point. For some time, I have been considering whether or not to sell my 2007 Silverado. It is coming up on needing a lot of work and I figure if I can scrape up the cash to make the payment on a newer Silverado/Sierra it might be worth it. Before I forgot it is 4x4 and has about 95,000 miles on it. It is a long bed and has the 4.8 V8 engine. Anyway, the truck has been suffering from what I would call 'considerable' rust underneath to the frame and now it has began to get around the bottom of my paint job and chip it off. I was thinking about sanding it down (or having someone do it for me) and painting the lower six inches or so black. I have seen it done on a lot of trucks. It is also coming up on new brake pads, possibly calibers and rotors as well. Also it has never had the transmission oil changed so I am planning on changing the filter in the pan and doing that as well. So basically I am sort of beginning to wonder if I should consider selling it and purchasing a newer one. However, the truck has never left me on the side of the road and runs great. -
Well, seeing as how I can't find much on this subject no matter what forum I go to, why not try to start the discussion here and see what kind of following I can get and see where we end up. If you're reading this thread, chances are you have thought about modifying or swapping out your current transmission in your 2014+ GM truck. In my case, I don't mind my 6L80 in my truck. It does fine for what I do right now and it's holding up just fine, but I think the big issue is when you start to search for big power (like I'm starting to do), that 6L80 is not going to hold very much (or so we think). Now, let's all face it. We've seen posts after posts, comments after comments, photos, videos, etc. of guys with built motors with turbos or prochargers shooting down the quarter mile in search for the best time on these 6L80s. Some say they're completely stock, others have them built, and we all ask ourselves the same question: Reliability. How well are these transmissions going to hold up to the abuse on the track? Especially if you want to make it a fast street/strip truck and drive it back home to the garage afterwords. We know for a fact that 6L90s can hold quite a bit of power. Even though I've mostly seen it in Camaro ZL1 applications, there is a guy on YouTube (GuitarmaggedonZL1) who is running a stock 6L90 on stock converter making 1000HP (give or take on an unloaded dyno) and the transmission hasn't puked all over the ground just yet. (Exaggeration, I know.) So, needless to say, a 6L90 swap sounds nice, at first... After you figure the extra length and weight (and in my case, relocation of the transfer case and getting custom driveshafts made), it starts to look a bit unpromising, but still not out of the ball park yet since it will be able to handle the power some are seeking, but where these newer transmissions lack significantly if you want to do boosted applications at the track (or even just launch control on N/A), no one has developed a transbrake. Very, very few forums are talking about this, and only one video exists of a guy in his BMW testing out a transbrake on a 6L80/6L90, and who knows how reliable it is. So, now, you start to think: Well, gee. What can I do now? How about a TH400 or 4L80e swap? So far, I've seen few posts on that as well. No one is talking about it, and I think the biggest problem people seem to be facing is the new PCM: E92. Also possibly the fact that the TCM on the newer transmissions is inside the transmission and whatnot, but whether that plays a part in this, I don't know yet. Now, adapting a TH400 or 4L80e can be done (most likely with a different bellhousing since the bolt holes are in a slightly different spot), but you run into the issue of getting it to speak/cooperate/communicate with the new E92, which I don't think anyone has tried. The only video I've seen of anything working in this application was on a 1320Videos video with a Nova where they were using an LT4 long block (built motor to 388 C.I.) and twin turbos, and it had a powerglide in it. Don't know if it was a manual valve body or computer-controlled, but what I do know is that they used the factory computer to run the DI injection system and piggybacked the rest to an MS3 Pro. After dealing with some issues, they were able to make that thing boogy to a 9 second pass at 148mph. So, these engines have potential to haul ass, but we just haven't figured out how to crack the system. So, at this point, I'll just leave what I've discussed here and see where the thread goes from here, and I'm hoping people chime in and vendors are watching/listening. Even though the demand isn't hot for it right now, there's going to be a surge for good transmissions when people can buy these trucks/cars/motors/transmissions for pennies on the dollar. Unfortunately, I feel like we'll have to wait that long in order to see results, but oh well. Just to give you guys an example: In the next year or two (2019 or 2020), I'd like to go turbo with my truck. (Doing all the supporting mods before going there minus built bottom end until I see where I can get with stock bottom end before sending a rod through the block or oil pan) Ideally, it'd be best to have a transbrake in that application with 2-step, but can't do it on the new transmissions. So, 4L80 seems to be the option, but I can't do that either because no one supports adapters or harnesses to make them work with the new motors/ECUs. That's the boat I'm in. I like to research everything before I go whole hog into something. Risk assessment, I guess. -
Good morning guys, Obviously I'm new to the forums, so thank you in advance for your understanding! A little background on my situation -- I always make sure to maintain my vehicle to the best of my ability (both proactively and within my financial budget), but my Chevy Silverado just hit it's 75,000 mile mark with no previous transmission fluid maintenance. 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 (Standard Work Vehicle) Pre-Certified with 3,008 miles on it, pretty much brand-new -- Purchased in Oct, 2013 4.3 Liters V6 Engine 75,600 miles currently The only thing it's ever towed is the smallest Uhaul for about 600/miles, and sod back in the day. For the past couple of years I've only driven it to and from work (50 miles round trip in city/highway), but for the most part this past year my new place of employment is super close, so that dwindled to around 25 miles round-trip. I've only ever replaced the engine oil and filter regularly, and tires a year ago, so when it comes to how I should maintenance the transmission oil, that's a bit foreign to me unfortunately. I've heard if you make it passed 70k with no issues, it's not wise to flush it out entirely, but more so the 50/50 (old/new) method? I would like some advice from you tenured vets on this, and to see if I should take it to the Chevy dealer or a transmission specialist? Thanks again! -
I have a 2006 Silverado vortec max with 247,000 miles about every other day the first start up in the morning it feels like the transmission slams as the engine turns over and then runs fine the rest of the day any idea on what could be causing it, all the fluids are topped off and it’s not showing any codes. Any help is appreciated! (The transmission is automatic)
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transmission failed in my Silverado the other day at 103k, bought a used one with 32k miles and I am swapping it here at the house. I know I would need to re flash a reman transmission but what about a used one that came out of the same vehicle? -
I'm very frustrated about how GM denied an extended warranty coverage case on a well known production issue of their 2008 GMC Acadia (and many other models, see list and bulletin). Up until now I was very happy with my car and even considered upgrading soon but the way GM handled and communicated my case is careless and completely unacceptable. On Aug 6, while literally on the way to the airport for my family vacation to Europe, the check engine light came on and we had to take the airport shuttle instead. After returning in September I had the car towed to the dealer who diagnosed a faulty 35R transmission clutch wave plate. A quick internet search turned up service bulletin #14404 (https://gm.oemdtc.com/TSB/SB-10057962-6560.pdf) describing this issue as a common and well known defect in many early models (including mine), as a matter of fact grave enough to extend the warranty to 10 years and 120,000 miles. I called GM customer engagment who bluntly denied the warranty because it had expired 2 weeks prior the diagnose. This is upsetting because the mileage on my Acadia is way below 120,000, the problem originated long before the expiration date and there wasn't any communication that would have notified me of that issue or triggered a sense of urgency to bring in the car before going on vacation. I strongly believe that it is GM's responsibility to rectify this well known issue under the extended warranty conditions given the above described circumstances. I'm happy to provide further evidence (plane tickets, diagnosis report) and look forward to your reply and a resolution to my problem within the next 3 days. -
Hi, I have a 2008 4WD Avalanche with about 130K miles and (I assume) the 4L60E transmission. We just drove it from CT to Orlando with no issues, but while driving it on International Avenue, heard a loud bang/clunk and lost transmission engagement (in Drive). Coasted into a gas station, turned the car off and back on, and started going through the gears. Drive or 3rd wouldn't engage, but did engage in 1st and 2nd. Drove forward in 1st then 2nd, hear another clunk/bang (not as loud), and then Drive and 3rd "worked" again (except I think it was still in 2nd gear). However, now Reverse won't work (feels like there is resistance, but won't move), and is actually engaged and moves forward while in neutral!?! Wasn't far from the resort so was able to limp back in 1/2 gears. Noodling around, I am seeing a broken reverse band or sprag or maybe solenoids, as possible culprits, but none seems to totally fit, but then again, while I can do most of my own mechanical work on my car, tranny's are out of my wheelhouse. Before I bring it to a shop to get diagnosed, I was hoping someone could help educate me on the 4L60E and/or give me some ideas what the issue may be so I can discuss it intelligently with the mechanic, generally understand their diagnosis, and make sure I don't get ripped off. And if anyone here is from the Orlando area, any advice on trusted/reasonable mechanics would be appreciated, as well as any rough ideas of cost to replace or rebuild the tranny? And while I would normally not go to them, I am also thinking whether I should go to a chain store transmission shop or a dealership so I might have some recourse if I have any future problems with a repair once back in CT. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
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I recently bought a new 2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab LTZ with the 6.2 liter & 8 speed transmission. I bought the truck in Idaho (great deal) and drove it home to California. Since then I've only put a few hundred more miles on it, 1181 total miles to be precise. Yesterday the tranny started shifting really hard & clunking on downshifts. Today, when I put the truck into drive it barely moves! Obviously, the transmission is slipping as the engine revs but the truck doesn't really move much! Any info on if the truck can still be returned at this point or am I stuck rebuilding a brand new tranny? Doesn't seem right to have to go through this so soon! I hope GM will either let me return the truck completely or give me a brand new transmission. Any insight on what may happen would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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Can anyone tell me if a 1999 silverado 4x4 transmission will work to replace the transmission in my 2004 sierra 1500 4x4?
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So I've had my truck now for 2-3 months and it is now sitting at 3295 miles and every now and then it shifts hard or sloppy but i can make it shift hard by flooring it which obviously happens when doing this but the weird part is not flooring it is when i let off the gas and when i come to a stop the downshifts are harsh. Now i know i could be breaking it in but even my father who used it for a week said it should be checked out and he is quite the Chevy enthusiast himself. Is there any known problems with the 6 speed in my truck? its a 2018 double cab lt z71 4x4 with the 5.3l. -edit: it also shifts hard when using manual mode or low whatever you like to call it just putting it out there. -
As we are all aware, many manufacturers are turning to 8 speed transmissions for fuel economy. I personally owned one for five years in my Lexus and absolutely loved the thing. It did have its quirks but for the most part it allowed me to get phenomenal fuel economy out of a V8. I believe the transmission was made by Aisin. Today I was in a professional development class run by a ZF factory rep. ZF is the second largest OE parts manufacturer for German vehicles (second to only to Bosch). What the guy told me about the 8 speed transmission that they mass produce for VW Audi, Mercedes, Chrysler and others, really kind of blew my mind. He said they make so many of these transmissions that they needed to build a factory next to BMW in America because they couldn't ship them over here fast enough. They used to fly them over but what happened was the transmissions were filled with fluid, and the fluid poured out while the planes took off (and they were heavily fined). They build thousands of these units a day. Long story short...they sold the blueprint of the transmission to Chrysler. They make 8 dollars off of every transmission Chrysler puts into their cars (plus whatever they paid for the rights to the transmission). The transmission is put in everything from the Hellcat, to the Ram. The guy was asked how many transmissions are rebuilt on warranty through ZF - he said 60 a day - and that they could/should be doing more but their division can't handle the workload. He was asked how many of those transmissions were failures from Chrysler...he said 95%. I was shocked. He said Chrysler chose to take the spec sheet and low bid all the internal solenoids and use cheaper metals. That crazy or what? ZF bought TRW, so a lot of the class was about TRW, suspension components...how modifications can stress bearings, etc. He talked about the different ways aftermarket ball joints and tie rods affect electric steering racks. It was pretty cool. He also talked about how Audi had wiring issues with their A4 (grounds) and a solution was discovered for 80 cents a vehicle...and it was voted down because they would have to layoff everyone in that division and change manufacturers who made the ground components. It was voted down unanimously. Haha. They could have solved their ground issues but instead decided it was better not to. They talked about their diesel fiasco and how the program was biapased by the steering angle sensor (pretty ingenious until they were caught). What I took away from the class was how everything is money driven in this industry. Everything. You like a certain brand?? They don't like you. You should have heard what was said about Moog autoparts (they wrote the book on cutting corners and manipulating the market). Very interesting.
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what do you guys think? I installed a reman transmission on my 2013 gmc 2500 hd. My tow haul and manual shift does not work now. The orange wire is not the problem i have another truck same model i swapped the tow haul lever over from. Before i swapped i verified my donor trucks tow haul lever worked and installed it on my problem truck just to be sure. I know my manual shift worked prior to the transmission installation because the only way i could drive it was manually shifting 1-3. could this be an internal issue with the transmission or tcm? I do have a tpms light on and traction control light on. Considering the manual shift worked before i wouldnt guess this was the problem, but after the transmission installation i swapped over the tire and rims from my donor truck onto my problem truck.
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Hey all, I have a 2017 LT 5.3 Z71 that just turned over 10k miles. I've never had a truck under warranty so I haven't jumped into many mods yet (did an intake tube and hoping for an exhaust soon though). Trucks/jeeps I've had in the past I've upgraded the transmission pan to hold more fluid/cool better, on my Tahoe I did the same to the rear differential cover for toughness and cooling ability. I've never had a new truck but plan on holding onto it for a long time so my thoughts are longevity/preventative/bulletproofing the drivetrain. Anyone have thoughts/experience/opinions? Thanks!
