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  1. First post here but wanted everyone to know before they too get screwed by their power train warranty. I have A 2015 gmc 1500 Denali 6.2 and have had transmission problems after about 10000 miles or so . I have taken it in and asked to have the transmission looked at with nothing but “can’t find a problem “ from service. I installed a k and n dry synthetic intake to my truck after about 15,000 miles(I have about 50k now). Took my truck in about 7months ago due to the transmission hitting hard throughout gears. When i take the car out of park into reverse there is a hard knock and a decent jolt. Sometimes when driving it and getting onto a freeway the gas pedal does not work then kicks in after a few seconds (pretty scary ). Another issue is if I give it gas in 4th or 5th it revs high then I feel like I and being rear ended and then the truck moves. This is crazy that this is happening. The dealership did a reprogramming of the transmission and 7 months I take it back they pull it apart and find pieces of the clutch in the bottom of the transmission pan. They call me today and tell me that the aftermarket CAI is the cause of the problem. They say the mass air flow censor is covered in oil from the air filters oil? My air filter is a dry synthetic filter just wash with water and air dry so I call their bullshit. They then call me back and say they looked into the filter I own and it is a dry filter and there was no oil on it. Wow wtf. They bullshit their way out of everything. Just wanted people to know when they have this problem be one step ahead of them and keep your stock air intake . It is absolutely absurd to say my clutch is coming apart in my transmission because of a aftermarket air intake. They are also not honoring the warranty and want me to pay $4480 for a new trans. This will probably be my last gm car ever.
  2. Hey guys I am planning to change the transmission fluid on my 2007 Silverado (New Body) 4.8 4x4 here soon. My muffler recently wore a hole into it and rusted out a piece of the exhaust. Therefore, I am planning on replacing my entire system with this one from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00503PU70/?coliid=I365UW575WJD1C&colid=1GQFQXGWZEWEY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Anyway I have done some research and it looks like the exhaust system prevents the transmission pan from being dropped completely. For this reason, I would like to change my transmission fluid and filter while I am changing out the exhaust. It seems like it is going to save me a world of trouble. Also I am coming up on 95,000 miles and almost positive it has never been changed before. However, there are a lot of opinions on both the right way of doing this and the wrong way. I see a lot of people on YouTube removing the metal line from the front of the transmission radiator and letting the old fluid drain out that way while adding in new fluid. Then they stop when they see new fluid being pulled into the container and replace the filter then go on with life. I have heard other people say that this is gambling with your transmission and should not be done. Basically any advice and opinions would be greatly appreciated. I also heard to not get sucked into "fancy labels" when it comes to new fluid either. My local guy said you want to replace the fluid with exactly the same thing that is in there right now as it was not designed for anything else. I just looked in the manual and it says that it is DEXRON VI so probably going to go with this from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-9395-Dexron-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B01EKMGG92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526257467&sr=8-2&keywords=dexron+vi+automatic+transmission+fluid Let me know if you guys need anymore information. Any advice and direction you guys can give would be awesome.
  3. I just wanted to share my recent experience. My '16 had the occasional hard shift at low speeds, and the occasional weird shift in traffic, but it wasn't terrible...the last month or so it seemed to get a little worse, but wasn't crazy. I had a few warranty issues I needed to take care of, so when I tool it in, I asked them about checking the transmission program and see if anything needed to be updated or whatnot. I get my truck back later that day, and I kid you not, it drives better than it was brand new (granted it only has 25k miles) but even just in traffic and around town and slow speeds...I didn't think I had it bad, but that reprogram did wonders! My point of this is, that many of you probably already did this...BUT...i have heard and read tons of threads about the 8 speed and people hating it...I would recommend taking it to the dealer whether you think you have a significant problem or not just to see if you are due for a program upgrade. Mine didn't cost anything due to warranty, but before they changed it, I think it had like $98 beside it...I assume if you took it in just for a trans reprogram that would be close to the charge (but I'm not 100% sure). Anyway, good luck if you have some weird issues, my experience has been very positive with the 'upgrade'!
  4. Alright so I’m thinking of doing a 2/4 drop on my 14 Silverado got a quick question. Will I have to mess with the driveshaft at all I don’t want the driveline to go in to the transmission. Will I have any problems.
  5. Hey there I am a proud owner of a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado. The issues I wanted to discuss is the new technology in the truck. What I'm referring to is the E assist system. Only 500 of these were released in California, I own one and love my truck but I believe this system is making the truck drive weird. I'm not sure if it's because it's trying to improve fuel economy or just faulty but when I am coming to a stop I can feel a clunk almost like I was rear ended, I can also feel it when taking off and it's annoying. I wanted to see if any of you have had similar problems in your truck and any advise you had or your experience. I brought this issue to the dealer twice and both times they found issues but none with the e assist system or transmission they claim. I have posted a link to a video of what happened on my last experience to my local dealer. Thanks for any help.
  6. I have a 2016 Chevy 2500HD, that has 37” tires. I got a ticket the other day for 87MPH when I had my cruise set at 75MPH. What model of speedohealer do I need to buy? i contacted Healtech and they replied: To confirm compatibility, we need to know whether your car has a speedometer sensor mounted on the gearbox or elsewhere, and is it 2-wire or 3-wire sensor. thank you, Bruce, Dallas, TX
  7. Just wanted to relay a story in case anyone runs into this issue. Well, a couple weeks ago I did a simple pan drop, filter change, and added 6 quarts of Amsoil Signature series fluid. The truck was shifting really smooth and running great for about 3-4 days. After that I noticed a shudder at 20-30 mphs. Nothing major and it felt like it was coming from the back of the truck, so I assumed it was the rear wheels needing balancing. After more driving of the truck I slowly realized the shudder was likely due to the torque converter. I had bought 3.5 gallons of amsoil fluid and had planned to disconnect the trans line and pump out old fluid and add new. I finally got around to doing that yesterday and drove the truck about 10 miles or so and have now noticed the shudder is pretty much gone. The fluid was extremely dirty but didn't smell burned and my truck is a 2014 with only 46k. For only 46k I felt like the fluid was way too dirty but I didn't feel the pan had an excess amount of metal shavings in it. I have never had a shudder develop after a simple fluid change but wanted to share this with anyone in case it happens. If the shudder doesn't completely go away I may end up (unfortunately) buy another gallon of fluid and exchange it out. However so far it seems like the shudder is gone or very minimal.
  8. Alright so I’ve been wanting to to the 6l80 swap in my 2011 rcsb 4.8/4l60 for a while now. Not for gas mileage or anything like that, simply because I want to. I am capable of doing the swap and have a tuner, just need to know what all is needed. Thanks!
  9. Well, that's the most expensive carwash I've ever gotten. Took my '04 Avalanche 1500 Z71 into the dealership and asked them to attempt to activate the transmission temp gauge that was added to the OE cluster. Talking to the service writer and technician, they seemed very "by the book" and said the programmer matched it to the VIN number, and if the VIN said it didn't originally come with the gauge, it wouldn't activate it. At first, the writer said he might waive the diagnostic fee because it was unsuccessful. Well, so much for that. Still charged me full $125. Well, at least it's the cleanest it's ever been. I knew it was a gamble from the start when I added the gauge to the cluster that didn't originally have one. But from what I've read here and other forums, it seemed like there was a pretty good chance it would work. If any of you are, or could recommend a technician in Southern California that thinks he can do this for less than $200, I'm all ears. My next step is contacting one of those mail-order cluster companies to see if I can ship it off, or they'll swap out the core for an HD cluster with a working trans gauge. Thanks in advance.
  10. Just had the rear main seal, and the transmission output seal replaced which meant the transmission had to come out completely. Everything looks and feels fine, except now there is a grinding/scraping noise coming from either the transmission output or where the drive shaft meets the differential. The noise is louder at slower speeds. Do new transmission output seals need to be "broken in" and such noise is normal? Otherwise, it's back to the dealer.
  11. It’s only done this one time. One day this flashed on my instrument panel. ( hill decent ). As far as I know this is a Manuel operation. I was braking pretty hard hard on a highway stop. Question on is I don’t think they offered that in 2014 on slt
  12. Hello! I was wondering if anybody could help me out, as I am stumped. I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3. I had the transmission rebuilt about 35,000 miles ago because it went out. The problem I am having now is that it does not want to shift out of 1st gear unless I release the gas, and the other gears shift on their own. When it does shift, it is not hard at all. If I romp on the gas pedal (put it to the floor or 3/4 way) it wants to rev up high in RPM's but does not want to go anywhere. If I press on the gas pedal anywhere to 3/4 of the way it goes high RPM's and then will shift. It is strange that it does not shift hard when it ends up shifting through the rest of the gears. I replaced the solenoids on the valve body and it did not fix anything. I checked the transmission fluid and it was a redish brown color with metal flakes in it (fluid has not been looked at since rebuild). I put new fluid in it, but it is still doing the same thing. The only codes that are popping up ate the P420 code (which I know is my cats). Otherwise, it runs great, just the weird possible transmission problem. Any suggestions of what this could be?
  13. hi I have a 2009 GMC Sierra with a 5.3 L engine with 4l60e transmission with 4x4 and I want to make 550 horsepower how can I achieve that thnx
  14. Ok Guys so I have a 2003 GMC seirra SLT I took it to the shop to get my right front hub replaced and have them drop my rear main oil pan and put a new gasket on it. After I got it back the speedometer did not work and the transmission fails to shift. So Yes I can take it back but my schedule is very busy and I am working all day today and Cannot get it back until monday. Just wanting to know if this sounds like a simple connection under the truck I can jump under it and reconnect. So basically im asking what connections would be disconnected that they would of had to pull in order to drop the oil pan. Thanks! Brandon
  15. Ok, so this is my first time posting here, and I'm really hoping to get some useful feedback as y'all are truck people like myself. I've owned my truck for the past year and a half, and only began noticing this issue after I serviced and changed all my oils (Transmission, and both diffs.) We're talking about a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500, 5.3l V8, SLT trim (if the trim matters). Here's what happens. On 2HI it runs great, no sound, smooth as silk, and transmission temp hovers at around 91 Celsius (195 Fahrenheit), and when I use to shift it to 4HI or 4LO, it rises up to MAX. 105 Celsius (around 220 Fahrenheit), and still smooth on the turning. Once I changed all my oils, suddenly there is a LOUD whining sound coming from beneath once I turn (not even sharp turns), its really sluggish, and the transmission does not take long to reach temperatures of 120-125 celcius (245-260 fahrenheit). I've already rechecked all the oils, and everything is clean and at a good level, there are no leaks, and I've used oils as per the owners manual. Any idea what I'm looking at, or what I should be checking? I do not want to blow useless money on monkeys clanking around in my truck for no reason.
  16. My transmission just broke down on me , Very disappointed of this truck , just problems from the day I got it, any recommendations? I'm at 85000 miles and I went to the dealer probably 3 months ago because the transmission was Acting up and they said was normal on this trucks because they power they have mmm now I'm stuck with this truck , what is this law lime I heart about it?
  17. Hey all! So I have a 1967 C20 to work on, may even get to buy it I believe it has a turbo 400 trans in it, and wondering if there is a notorious leak spot? Definitely good drip, but underside is so filthy hard to pinpoint, thought I would check before I go to power wash the underside ha. Some pics, if helps...thank you!
  18. Hi everyone, I probably have a stupid but simple question that I cant seem to find the answer to from my dealer or manual. I have a new 2017 crew cab 6.0 2500 hd the has the number 1 to the far right of the PRNDL. I understand the manual shifting aspect of the transmission but I'm looking for what the number 1 represents and its intended use on this truck. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!
  19. Hey guys, i bought another used K2 recently. This one is a MY 2014 4x4 with a 5.3L mated to the 6L80e. I have been driving it about 2 months now and about two weeks ago when slowing down into a 35mph zone in town, it downshifted at 35mph to 1st gear which jumped the motor to 3,500rpm, threw a CEL and would not shift out of first. Thank my lucky stars I just happened to have my scan tool with me. So I pulled over, scanned the truck and got P2715, pressure solenoid D stuck open. This means a shift solenoid was stuck in the open position and would not let the transmission shift out of 1st gear. I cleared the code and it flashed the solenoid and the trans operated like normal. Checked the temperature, level, and quality of the fluid at home in the shop and the trans was at 75 Celsius (170F) at the time, right on the full mark, and still reddish in colour, not brown. Last night, once again, in almost the exact same place on my way to town, from 40mph, it downshifted to first screeching the tires and revving the motor to 4k in the process. Same code, P2715, same solenoid "D" stuck open. Again, I cleared it to get home (so I wasn't in 1st gear), trans temp around 165f. I have about 6 months left on my powertrain warranty, but have been reluctant to take it in because I have an immobilizer for work installed because we often leave our trucks run on the jobsite. I am willing to uninstall all this to avoid a fight with the dealer. Looking further, I can't find any direct info on this code related to the K2 series trucks. I have found info on the 07-13's having a cracked shift drum and clutch pack issues in the trans (which does not sound good) in relation to code P2715. The solenoid is located in the TCU/Valve body which is inside the oil pan of the trans. I have no personal experience working with the 6L80e, so I am wondering...Is it easy to remove the TSU/Valve body to change solenoid "D" if anyone has done this? Has anyone had the same trouble code on a 2014+ 6L80e? Any insight to help me make a decision would be great. Thanks guys.
  20. Hi all, I have had my 2015 Silverado 5.3L Crew for less than a year, purchased February 2015. Currently, the truck has around 14800 miles on it, most of which are highway miles as I make frequent trips between Atlanta and Florida. Today on my way to work in Atlanta my truck just gave out on me power wise, no acceleration passed 40 mph. The check engine light came on and started flashing repeatedly which the Chevy site indicates that to mean there is a serious problem that needs immediate attention. Well I was a very short distance from the dealer near work so I just maintained my speed and tried not to let the truck shift gears. Once I got off the highway I had to come to a stop and experienced really rough idle and some hard knocking sounds. The truck did not however seem like it wanted to die out or stall on me. When the light turned green I pressed the gas and had very weak acceleration, the truck was hardly picking up speed and I couldn't tell what the trans was doing. Anyway, I got it around the corner to the dealer and dropped it off. I am hoping its just a computer module or something that gave out and started affecting things but it honestly seems more to me like a serious mechanical issue. Does anyone have any similar experiences or have any speculation into the issue? The transmission in this truck has always been the thing I liked least about it, sluggish shifts, not knowing what gear it wants to be in, hard shifts and knocking/dropping sounds. Any info or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeremy
  21. Ok, so, this is my second new truck. last one was a 2014, this is a 2017. my 14 tried to drive itself in park and the dealer could find no issue. I immediately traded it to not have to worry( i am very mechanically capable and can troubleshoot a lot of things from cars to airplanes). the new truck is plagued by transmission shifting/driving issues. the dealer has re-flashed it twice after GM cam out with the patch to resolve this. Still drives really rough and stutters all the time from 50 to 60. they are saying they are still working another patch to fit it, but i am tired of dealing with it. I am wondering if anyone here knows how to get in touch with a regional rep as far as my dealer said they don't know who to get me in touch with. at this point, I just want them to take it back under lemon law. so frustrating as a hard core Chevy fan to have lost faith in their current trucks, i truly miss my 04!!!
  22. Hello, I'm new here, I tried to find the information, and could not. I have a 2008 Silverado, with the V6 engine, my transmission is losing it's 3rd gear, and it's said there are 2 transmissions, I tried to find the tag on the transmission, and couldn't. What would be the code on the build list on the glove box door, that says which transmission it is. Clarence
  23. Hey all first time post but it wont be my last. I have a question I was looking to possibly get an answer for. I own a 1992 GMC Sierra 2500 454 4x4; The transmission is slipping and im looking at purchasing a used one as its far to expensive to rebuild. Anyways i live on an island and there are absolutely no 4L80E 4x4 transmissions. but there is a lot of TH400's, newer 4L80Es and of course 4L60Es. What would work with my truck? Or would none of these work? I do know that my transmission is specific to 1991 - 1993. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance
  24. I checked the transmission fluid when I got home from work today. I checked it at idle while in park and the fluid level was perfect. However I noticed a little smoke, kind of like a haze coming out from where the dipstick goes in. I never noticed this before.. Is this normal on these trucks? Should I be concerned? Truck is a 2014 5.3L with 41,300 miles.
  25. Hi all, I am new here, but I just got done doing a transmission filter replacement on my 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 (4 speed auto). I watched some DIYs on youtube and looked at some forums, but they all said to drop the exhaust down and that was an issue for me. I didn't have a socket that worked on there, one was too deep, the other was too shallow, and they were a PITA to break loose, so I went another route without dropping it and it worked fine! On a side note, while I was down there I did the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids, too. They are easy, just drain and fill until it flows out. I used a $6 hand pump off amazon that screws right into 1qt bottles of fluid. You can use the same kind of hand pump to drain the transmission pan fluid once it drops to reduce the mess, but I just embraced it and let it spill out all over. Anyway, here is what I did... Tools: 10mm socket 13mm socket T40 torx bit 1. Remove the heat shield from the side of the transmission pan, it's just in the way. 2. Remove one torx bolt and loosen the other above the shift cable bracket. This allows you to slide it out of the way for extra clearance to the pan bolts and gives the needed clearance to get the pan out. Note that there is very little clearance here and all I could do was get a torx socket on there and use a 1/4" wrench for leverage, but it worked! 3. Remove the pan bolts. It is helpful to leave a couple in so you can control where all the fluid drains out. Drop one corner and let it drain out in as controlled of a manner as you can. It's messy, especially if your truck doesn't fit in the garage and it's a windy day like I had! 4. Remove the pan with a little wiggling, it should slide right out. Pop the old filter out and the new one in. 5. Clean it thoroughly and get the sludge off the magnets. It might be my imagination, but I think one side of the magnet stuck better, so just test it out when you put them back. 6. Put the new gasket on and feed the bolts in. You will have to leave the back row of bolts out in order to clear the part above the exhaust crossover under the pan. 7. Bolt it in and re-install the heat shield and shift cable bracket. I didn't get any torque specs, but they were really easy to remove, so I just tightened them down mechanically tight. 8. Fill with fluid, it took about 6qt initially, but I have to go for a good long drive yet to warm it up and check it again. Hope this helps, it's way easier than trying to get the dang exhaust system to drop down! I mean really, look at how they located these bolts, I'd need 3 different sockets, a swivel, and a couple crows foot wrenches to break and remove all that crap including the sensor, no thanks! If you have any suggestions let me know, peace!
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