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Showing results for tags 'cab'.
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Quick how to and review of the Cab Over America wireless cab lights. Link to parts: https://caboveramerica.com/ The parts: For just under $400 you get a set of 5 battery powered wireless cab lights. Each light consists of 4 parts; the aluminum mounting plate, rubber gasket, LED/PV panel module, and the top lens. The top lenses can be had in clear, amber or smoke. In our case, we went with smoke. You also get two remotes to control the lights. Overall the quality is high and what I would expect from something in this price range. You also get some small lenses that can be place inside the cab lights to change the lights to amber while still using a clear or smoke outer lens. Lastly you are given a Cab Over America tape measure. We laid the tape out but ended up using a tape measure for all measurements. The install: First step was to decide on how you will be playing out the lights. We went with the two edge lights and 3 concentrated in the middle. Others may go with the even spacing all the way across, completely up to you. Here's a test fit. Also shows you the clearance with the shark fin. Remove the two nuts, lens, LED, and gasket so you are just left with the aluminum bracket with screw posts. It was easier to measure and mount the brackets without all the extra parts. We also bent the brackets a bit to fit the counter of the roof in the location they'd be installed. Here they are laid out in position. Wipe down the front 10" of your cab with Isopropyl alcohol. This is to prep the surface for better adhesion. Starting with the cab light nearest to the shark fin, measure 4.5" up from the windshield and 4.5" from the rain gutter to the front stud. This will locate the front mounting post. The rear post of the drivers side cab light should also be 4.5" from the gutter. Using a marker to make temp markings so when you remove the tape backing you can guide the bracket into position. Remove the tape backing, heat up the double stick tape, and install using your guidelines. Repeat for the passenger side light. Find the center of the windshield, measure 4.5" straight back, this will locate the front stud of the center light. Make sure the mounting bracket is straight and mark guide lined with a marker, remove tape backing, heat up the tape, then install. For the side center lights, we offset the lights 7.5" from the center light centerline. Measuring 7.5" from the center light's stud to the side light studs we were able to locate the side lights. Both the front and back studs of the side cab lights are 7.5" from the respective studs on the center light bracket. After all the metal brackets were installed the rubber gaskets were reinstalled, LED modules installed, and the lenses were screwed down. Last step was to sit back and enjoy the lights. They look great with the switchback mirrors! Here is a video of the install if you don't like reading! Thanks! WF41
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Hi, I have 2 questions. One, I want to do the HD Front end conversion on my 2007 NNBS Silverado1500. I know what I need, and I have decided on the 2011-2013 HD grill and bumper. I have gone on line and seen some people go with the 2007-2010 HD hood and some people go with the 2011-2013 HD hood. Would any one know the difference or if one fits better onto the 1500 truck? And does anyone know how to install the bumper? And the second question was, How can I convert the truck into full electric mode? I have manual windows and no power locks. My truck is extended cab and I would wish for the back windows to work as well. Or does anyone have a really good video on what parts I need and how to do it step by step? I am by no means a mechanic but i do work on my trucks here and there on small things. Thanks in advanced!
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I have a 2005 Silverado with the single cab. I was curious if I could take the standard center seat, that does not swing down. And swap it out with jump seat that does swing down (found in ext/crew cabs), in to my single cab? I'm looking to gain that armrest and simple storage on top. I have a subwoofer box behind the seats now and want to make sure it fits and all.
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Before I call the dealer can someone tell me if the roof lights that face the bed of the truck are supposed to come on with remote unlock I checked all the settings and couldn't find an option for it thanks ahead of time
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I fabricated true dual exhaust for my 2009 Silverado this weekend and have been plagued by horrible drone at 2000 RPM. cat back is 3" exhaust with x pipe right after cats and 10" flex pipes. dual exits before the rear wheel with 5 inch tips. Unsure if I should add a resonator and if so which one. don't want to loose the volume or flow but cant deal with the drone. will post pics of system soon. anything helps
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Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -They offer just a sub upgrade, or they offer the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game***
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(Sorry for making another thread on something that may have been answered somewhere else, I had tried the search feature for this specific question in a couple formats but couldn't quite find anything. Perhaps I was searching with the incorrect format/tag words.) After going through the forums, it seems as though most people have 2-2.5in of rake, whereas my measurements show a difference of 3-3.1 inches in rake. Is it more common for the 4x2's to have a higher back-end? If so, why might that be?? Or could it be due to measuring at the time of an almost empty gas tank? I wouldn't think it'd make an inch of height difference. Any help/information would be greatly appreciated.
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Box not square to the cab
DeltaTek posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado & Sierra HD Troubleshooting
Well it's been bugging me for awhile now but has anyone else seen this issue before I bought the truck and noticed it within the first week and mentioned it to a few of my friends and family who own the same trucks. Some trucks where the gap between the cab and the box were out by 1/2" some not as much but all seem to have more gap on the driver side. But with mine it's bad, I can see the folded steel on box panel which is normally hidden by the cab in my side mirror. Advice? Similar scenario? Let me know -
Hey- I have looked on the interwebs and haven't found much info- I'm looking at the Pioneer AVH 4200 NEX for my 2005 GMC Sierra. -Best Buy doesn't say that I can't install the 4200 NEX in the truck. BB can't tell me much of anything about the radio... -Crutchfield website says it can be installed, but the rear bracket will need to be cut and they don't recommend a retractable display. WTF does that mean? -The display model at BB won't tilt because of the way it is mounted in their crappy display box. -Is this radio a tilting or retractable display? -I read something about a European double DIN mounting face plate/kit. Is that what I'd need to install the AVH 4200 NEX in this truck? Maybe I am getting way ahead of myself and I really don't need this radio. What I do need: -GPS from my phone- I'd like to use Waze because it will synch with my calendar easily. -Ability to accept hooking up a back up camera -A 3.5 mm input for my Ham radio outputs -AM/FM/CD... DVD would be nice but not necessary. -Hands free phone It has been while since I installed a car stereo- single DIN in pre-2000's vehicles. I didn't have to mess with crazy chime boxes, and when you turn the key off, the radio didn't stay on for 10 minutes. Stuff like that. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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I have a 2004 Silverado 2500HD with the 6.0l. It is an LS trim. There is a button to what appears to be cab lights to the lower right of the radio. I do not currently have cab lights installed and there are no holes from them ever being on the truck. When I push the button there's a light that will illuminate signifying there's power. My question is, if I have that button does that mean the wiring is already fed to the roof and all I would need to do is connect some lights and drill some holes. Or is that button for something completely different.
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I know there are a lot of broad contributing factors when it comes to auto insurance premiums but I just recently received my third policy renewal from GEICO for my 2015 Silverado CC and I am shocked that my rates went up by 20% (++$130). First policy for the truck was $628, second policy was $645, third policy/current renewal rate $774. I live in Atlanta, GA and I have been with GEICO for 9+ years since I started driving. I have never had a claim, ticket, or accident. I called GEICO about the increase and they claim there was a statewide increase for all of GA effective this month. I find that a little hard to believe. Anyway I am looking for other peoples experiences since this increase doesn't seem acceptable to me. I have great coverage and pay more for the lowest possible deductibles. I also have a number of add on services through GEICO such as Roadside Assistance and Rental Reimbursement. Should a customer of 9+ years with no claims be subject to such an increase?