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  1. I have the 8" infotainment system in my 2014 Chevy Silverado. It can't be upgraded, and needs to be replaced for that reason. The last post on the topic was from 2016, and I think a lot has changed since then. Here's what I'm looking for: Needs: A unit that will snap in or integrate with the factory system. Integration with steering wheel controls. Apple Play CD/DVD Bluetooth Wants Integrated controller for 12v (think winch, lights, etc.) Ability to add front and side cameras (blind spot) Ability for a trailer camera (nice to have) All I can find is the Alpine i209-GM In-Dash Restyle System, which is $2k without the additional video inputs or controller. Total setup would be more than 5k. WAY out of my budget. Has anyone else been able to achieve this? I appreciate any thoughts you may have! Thanks!
  2. Just purchased a 5th wheel and using a Andersen hitch. So I need a easy way of lining up the ball to the trailer. A third brake light camera would be ideal. I saw GM makes one but the info is limited. PN# 19355304. Just asking is anyone has done this? does it integrate with factory system? Would I get a split screen between this one and tailgate camera?
  3. I'd like to get some information on adding a backup camera to my pickup. I have a 2009 Silverado 1500 LTZ with the Onstar/auto dimming mirror. I've seen some older after market models that have the camera in the tailgate handle bezel and the screen in the mirror. I'd like to get some first hand knowledge from anybody who has experience with these devices such as what models to look for, ease of installation/wiring and if there are any concerns one needs to keep in mind while shopping/installing. I don't use the Onstar system but I'd like to keep all of the functionality associated with the existing mirror. Thanks for any help!!
  4. Has anybody found a way to force the backup cam on without being in Reverse gear?
  5. I had purchased a replacement GMC camera for my 2014 1500 SLT Sierra to attach to my truck camper. It worked great. I recently replaced that truck with a 2016 2500 SLT Sierra. Unfortunately, when I went to plug in the camera which i had attached to my camper, I discovered that GMC had changed the connector. The 2016 2500 has an 8 pin plug while my 2014 1500 had a 6 pin plug. I am assuming that my camera from the 1500 should work with the 2500 truck if I can find an adapter. Is there a good source to confirm and to assist with providing a solution?
  6. Backup camera stopped working. I think it stopped after was at concert and we had tailgate down then ran engine to charge phones. But i got 8.5 volt to all four sensors and sensors are all good too. Says service park assist and I've also disconnected negative battery, shorted to + to drain capacitors to try and reset bcm. Drove over 40, came back and still not working. Anyone have any ideas? The light on the disable button is lit below the radio and won't got out. Could it be the switch is stuck in on position? Maybe the little chip inside the switch box went bad?
  7. I recently purchased a 2016 Yukon Denali XL and experienced a malfunction of the front camera that is used for lane departure warnings. My dealer states that there are no repair parts available for this and that it may be a lengthy period of time before any become available. Has anyone experienced this or have any knowledge on this topic?
  8. having issue with new 16 suburban. info center keeps coming up with "SERVICE FRONT CAMERA" lane departure system has been working intermittingly since new. dealer thinks it's "loose" wires...
  9. The all new $999 option came about through a partnership with Echomaster and includes up to four additional cameras that can help a driver keep tabs on his load and trailer while hauling. The system works with and is completely integrated with the factory MyLink infotainment system. Two cameras, one under each rear view mirror and an optional fourth camera that can be wired up to a trailer. Later this summer, the package will include a camera located in the 3rd high-mounted brake light so customers can check on stored bed cargo or easily hookup a fifth-wheel hitch. Any of the four-camera views can be checked on at anytime by long-pressing the home button for more than 5-seconds. The factory backup camera still automatically turns on when the pickup is placed in reverse. The multi-camera system also joins a new factory installed fifth-wheel prep package for 2016 Silverado 2500HD and 3500HD. The prep package will cost $350 and includes a frame-mounted hitch platform and tray and 7-pin wiring in the bed. An optional CURT fifth-wheel hitch is available through dealers. A 20,000lb hitch will cost $939 while a 25,000lb hitch will run $999.
  10. Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 3/16/16 Chevrolet has announced an all new optional and retrofittable camera system for the 2014 through 2016 Silverado 1500, 2500, and 3500 that are equipped with factory trailer-towing mirrors. The all new $999 option came about through a partnership with Echomaster and includes up to four additional cameras that can help a driver keep tabs on his load and trailer while hauling. The system works with and is completely integrated with the factory MyLink infotainment system. Two cameras, one under each rear view mirror and an optional fourth camera that can be wired up to a trailer. Later this summer, the package will include a camera located in the 3rd high-mounted brake light so customers can check on stored bed cargo or easily hookup a fifth-wheel hitch. Any of the four-camera views can be checked on at anytime by long-pressing the home button for more than 5-seconds. The factory backup camera still automatically turns on when the pickup is placed in reverse. The multi-camera system also joins a new factory installed fifth-wheel prep package for 2016 Silverado 2500HD and 3500HD. The prep package will cost $350 and includes a frame-mounted hitch platform and tray and 7-pin wiring in the bed. An optional CURT fifth-wheel hitch is available through dealers. A 20,000lb hitch will cost $939 while a 25,000lb hitch will run $999.
  11. Simple question. I am currently wiring in my blackvue cameras and am looking to remove the door sill assembly on the drivers side (not sure if that's the right term). It seems like the whole plastic assembly is just clicked in and can be popped out, but before breaking any plastic pieces, I want to make sure that this would be the right approach. Can someone send me a link to a video and/or instructions as to how to remove the whole assembly? Just so you guys know what I am talking about, I have attached a picture. I am connecting the wires to an external cellink b battery which will be located under the driver seat. Thanks
  12. Hello everyone. I am new to this site and have already seen a ton of great info being shared here. This is a great tool to have. I have a 2008 Silverado LT. I recently purchased an aftermarket wireless reverse camera. The truck did not have one from the factory. Tapping in to the reverse lights at the rear for the camera is pretty easy, but what is the best place for screen power? I have seen a few threads, and am curious if anyone has tried the wire for reverse lights out of the BCM? What about a fuse tap somewhere? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. THX!
  13. I know there is a couple topics about this and there seems to be some interest so I thought I would bring it up again. I am finding it hard to get used to the length of the font of the truck. My SLT has the rear camera but not park assist. Is there anyway to hook up a front facing camera to the factory head unit?
  14. Greetings, I have a late model Silverado Crew LT. I have a free high definition camera that I'd like to install as a back-up camera. I have a replacement bezel with a spot for the camera; and I'm using an aftermarket navigation/radio package (Advent OGM1) ready to accept camera inputs. Question: does the factory wiring harness in this truck contain a camera + and - running from the rear of the truck into the cab? I have a couple of wiring harness diagrams, but I'm struggling because the wire colors don't match what I'm seeing at the bundle of connectors at the rear of the truck (tucked up beside the spare). I'd certainly prefer to avoid having to run wiring if it's already there. Despite numerous inquiries I've never gotten a definitive answer. Some folks say "yes", but can't identify to wiring correctly. Others say I have to pull my own. In between is the right answer. It's hard to believe GM would have different harnesses and not include the wiring; but I've seen stranger things. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!! Cheers TY
  15. Have any of you noticed your backup camera having a yellow tint where all lights are showing? I'm not sure if it came this way when I bought it or if its something that just started occurring. You can't tell in the day time but in the dark, it shows pretty clearly. http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/xoriceboiox/media/IMG_1161.jpg.html There's a link of a picture I took of my camera in case it doesn't show.
  16. If you have an aftermarket navigation like an Advent OGM1, Alpine or Kenwood, etc. and have tied your factory camera into the aftermarket head unit, unless you disconnected it or sold the factory display mirror, you are now left with the factory camera showing in the mirror as well as the display on the radio. Although this is a perfectly acceptable situation and in some cases may be preferable if you tend to look at the mirror while backing up, you have a couple more options available: Sell your mirror monitor on Ebay for ~$250-$300 and replace it with the cheaper standard mirror Use the mirror monitor for displaying another camera like a front, side or camper/trailer camera A front camera is a lifesaver when pulling into a tight parking stall or garage space, and for the cost (in this case less than $125, but can be done for much less), it's cheaper than fixing ANY damage you could do to the front of your truck by running into another vehicle or other immoveable object. Also, if you ever hook any accessories to the front of your truck (snowplow, front hitch, etc.), a front camera is indispensable. To use the factory mirror with another camera is really pretty easy and can be done simply by adding a switch to turn on the display and hard-wiring your camera to the mirror. This mod covers adding a front camera (Advent CAM500) to my own Tahoe, and the process is identical in the Suburban and Yukon, but slightly different in the Silverado/Sierra, where the camera wires are actually easier to get to. An overview of the process: Determine what type of switch you want to use (momentary or toggle) and where you want to mount it Choose your camera and where you want to mount it, then run your camera power/ground and video output cables to the mirror Identify the wires for your mirror display trigger and the mirror monitor camera input Wire switch to ignition and mirror trigger wires Wire camera power/ground Wire camera video output to mirror input Enjoy another camera in your truck! In my own Tahoe, I added an Advent CAM500 to the front grille - this is a small camera with an all-metal body that can be used as a front or rear camera and has switchable parking lines: In the case of the Tahoe (or Silverado) with the factory "crosshatch" style grille, it was EXTREMELY easy to mount because the threads of the camera body were within a few thousandths of a "friction fit" into any one of the holes, so I added about 4 wraps of electrical tape to the metal threads to tighten the fit: As I mentioned, the camera is able to be used as a front camera because you can cut a loop to reverse the image, and another loop to remove the parking lines: Once the camera is mounted, it's very unobtrusive and almost hard to pick out as an aftermarket accessory: Next came finding a switch to use and a place to mount it. I sourced a nice rubber covered momentary switch, which when activated turns on the mirror display that stays on for 3-5 seconds after releasing the button. I mounted it on the steering column cover to the rear of the opening for the steering column tilt release lever: The switch is what's needed to turn on the mirror display while the truck is running, so it has to have an ignition power feed on one terminal (input) and a connection to the mirror display trigger wire (output) on the other terminal. A handy place to grab both ignition and the mirror trigger is at the left I/P junction block - this is under the large black cover to the left of the footbrake. Once you pull the cover off, this what you'll see (or some minor variation of this layout): In this case, the wire labeled "REVERSE" above is in fact the trigger wire for the factory mirror, and IGNITION and GROUND for the camera and switch are readily accessible here as well. What we need to do is hook one terminal of our switch (input) to the IGNITION terminal here, then remove the light gray plug at the top right of the junction block and peel back the tape on the harness a little bit, then cut the blue "REVERSE" wire: Connect the side that goes into the taped harness and up to the mirror to the output terminal of your switch: At this stage, you can test the operation of your switch - if your factory camera is still hooked up, put the truck in reverse to turn on the factory camera, then you should be able to turn the mirror display on and off with the switch. Now we can identify the wires from the factory camera. In the Silverado and Sierra, these wires can be found at the left kick panel (and if you have already wired your rear camera to your radio, you've already identified these wires and hooked your radio's backup camera RCA lead to them), or at the mirror harness like the Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Avalanche: If you have a Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Avalanche, this camera plug is not at the kick panel - the only place I've ever been able to locate it is at the mirror harness itself - the factory camera wires are the white and blue wires in Pins 6 and 7 at the plug at the mirror (third and second pins in from the right, respectively in this photo): Here's the actual pin assignments at the mirror: The easiest way to get access to these wires in order to make your connections is to remove the mirror (loosen the Torx T-20 screw at the base and slide it off upward), then remove the domelight lens to gain access and remove the two Torx T-15 screws under the lens, then pull out the upper console and unplug the harnesses attached, then set the console aside. You can then pull the mirror harness up and out of the hole in the headliner where the console was. Peel off the tape around the upper portion of this harness to expose the wires inside. You will need to route your camera's video output up to the mirror in order to make these connections, and if you did not hook power to your camera at the left I/P junction block as mentioned above, you can run power and ground for the camera here as well. It is far easier to run these cables by removing the left side "A" pillar trim by pulling the trim plug at the top of the "A" pillar cover and removing the 7mm screw underneath, then pull out at the top of the trim panel, then up. Unplug the tweeter if you want, or just lay the panel on top of the dashboard. Run your camera wires up the pillar and ziptie to the existing harness that's already there, then route across the forward edge of the headliner to the upper console location. Camera power connections: IGNITION is the pink wire in Pin 13 and GROUND is the black wire in Pin 8: The factory camera wires are the same white and blue wires you see in Pins 6 & 7 at the mirror, but they are wrapped inside the blue foil seen here: When you peel back the foil, the factory camera wires are inside - you will cut these wires as shown below in order to hook up your new camera input to the mirror: Almost all cameras have a standard RCA male for video output, so it makes sense to source a female RCA cable and hardwire that to the mirror harness instead of hacking off the male end of your camera harness - in the photo below, my female RCA cable has had the outer insulation stripped off and the center conductor (RED) connected to the white wire leading to the mirror and outer shield (COPPER) has been connected to the blue wire leading to the mirror: If you are doing this in a Silverado/Sierra, the same connections apply, but you will be doing them at the driver's kick panel, with the front camera video feeding the white and blue wires leading UP THE PILLAR TOWARDS THE MIRROR. Once your connections are made, you should then be able to display the rear camera on the radio when the truck is in reverse and the front camera any time the key is on by flipping your switch. If everything checks out, you can reassemble the truck and start using your camera! To lend some perspective to the difference this camera makes, I backed up in my driveway, then pulled in as close as I dared to the front of my garage without using the camera, judging distance solely by looking over the hood - (close enough that I was scared of running into the house) - then switched on the camera: On getting out and checking my clearance, I was embarrassed at how badly I had judged the distance: Next time, I backed up and tried pulling in with the camera on, and I was able to reduce this distance to about 6-8 inches with no problem at all. It truly made all the difference in the world being able to actually see where the front bumper was instead of having to guess (badly) where it was! If you (or your significant other) are regularly sticking the nose of your truck into tight spaces like a garage or even pulling into a parking stall, the added perspective will give a boost of confidence that I don't believe you can get any other way, and potentially save some pretty major repair bills... In conclusion, this mod is one of the most cost-effective, useful (and fun) mods I've done in awhile, and it makes great use out of your factory mirror that you probably don't even look at any more (for the camera portion anyway).
  17. OK guys, here is the stereo everyone wants, the Advent OGM1, complete with DVD, NAV and backup camera. I had it installed in my 2009 GMC Sierra, and recently traded that truck for another brand. Everything worked great in it. It is just over a year old. This is the plug and play model and it is hard to distinguish it from the stock NAV system. IMO, this one sounds better than the stock radio, as it has a 9 band EQ. I paid quite a bit more than this for it, but the first $900 takes it (shipping included in the lower 48 states). I will accept Paypal. Let me know.
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