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Showing results for tags 'camper'.
Found 20 results
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I am currently in the market for a camper and I am wondering how much weight I can tow. I have 2019 Silverado 1500 RST 5.3 V8 crew cab short bed. From what I can find online I should be “okay”, but really wanted some feedback from those of you that have a similar setup. I am aware the 2500 is the ideal setup, but that will be down the line a bit for me. Truck Trailering Info: GVWR 7100lbs GCWR 15000lbs GAWR RR 3800lbs Max Payload 1819lbs Max Tongue Weight 960lbs Curb Weight 5281lbs The camper I am looking at has a dry weight of 6300lbs and GVWR of 9,480lbs (no intent to load our camper down or travel with full tanks). Hitch weight of the camper is 680lbs. 32’ 11” tongue to bumper. Really only looking at going camping within 100 miles on the weekends. We typically travel light with basic necessities for hook up campgrounds (clothes, food, chairs). any help would be great!
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I'm taking the tail gate off and I'm going to haul a camper on my 2015 3500 srw. The sensors on the rear bumper will have to be disabled I'm thinking. Has anyone here done this? Might it be as easy as disconecting a plug?
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Overall pretty satisfied (9/10) with the CX Revo. Was hesitant due to all the negative reviews online but it seems pretty sturdy. The shape of the rear glass opening could be a bit better if it was curved more towards the tailgate. You can see it sticks out a little bit. Tried sticking my hand through and its a pretty tight fit so not too worried about that. May end up switching over to the new Leer model coming out soon but who knows. See pics below : ?
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Snugtop Camper - Forgot the exact model Fits 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 6.5’ bed - installed on my double cab Factory silver Has optional pop out windows, with locks Reinforced roof for a roof rack Carpeted headliner Rear sliding / drop down window $1500 obo located in Ontario, California (91761)
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I am looking to purchase a 32’ mallard travel trailer I was asking your guys opinion on to if you think it is to much on my truck it is rated at 9600 pounds. The trailer is 6416 dry weight 8600 GVWR. Do you guys think it will be fine? -
Hi all, I haven't posted too many times in the forum... but I have found another question and would like to hear some opinions. I am in the market for a new travel trailer. I have found the newer models are significantly lighter than my current camper. I am currently pulling a 32' travel trailer that weighs in (on the scale) just over 7,000lbs. Being an older trailer, I just don't think it hauls well... (and I will be honest, I have it a little nose down- my mistake when setting up the WDH.) I hate driving this on the highway, I prefer slower state roads that don't face big rigs passing by, winds that blow you around, and generally just feel more in control on them. On the highway, I feel I need to drive slower 55-60 and still keep a hand on the trailer brake. I have also noticed on newer campers they have begun spreading the axels a little farther apart (more stable?). I am trying to figure out if I need to step down in both weight and length to get a better towing experience, or simply lowering the weight (and correct WDH setup) will improve the tow-ability... Will a light but long trailer get blown all over the road? My truck details are copied below from another post; I am well within weight limits for my truck (@7,700lbs). I would like to be able to travel at normal highway speeds- 70-75) and feel comfortable... The hard part is finding a camper with the features we (my wife) wants that will tow comfortably. Suggestions are welcome here too! Bunk Beds, One or Two entry (if one it cannot be next to bunks), sofa, slide out for floor space, queen bed separated by wall... thats not too much to ask is it? (jk- its tough to find without hitting 30'+) If a manufacturer would just make a model with a sofa instead of a slide out dinette we would be sold! *2012 GMC Sierra 1500. Specs on the truck include; 4x4, crew cab, max trailer package (5.3 KDL HD Cooling Package, trailer brake harness, 3.42 ratio). I have installed the Tekonsha P3 brake controller. I currently have the Camco Recurve R6 hitch for sway and WD. The truck manual max trailer weight states 9,500lbs with a GCWR of 15,000lbs (truck GVWR 7,000lbs). I do understand the balancing required between truck and trailer for GCWR; if truck fully loaded is 5,500lbs and tongue weight is 1,000 pounds the max trailer becomes 8,500 pounds not the book stated 9,500. I am thinking a 7,700lbs GVWR for a trailer will fall WELL within specs. I also plan to add SumoSprings to my truck later this spring- and possibly stronger tires on the truck for towing... -
My intention is to install an auxiliary battery for camping in a 20 17 Silverado 2500 using GM's parts. GM's discussion of Removal/Installation procedure of Positive Auxiliary Battery cable, PN 23386298, on a gas truck with RPO K4B does not mention any connections that would energize the Auxiliary Battery Run Relay, item 10 in the attached drawing. The procedure only mentions connecting the cable to positive battery terminal on the under hood fuse block. The Auxiliary Battery Run relay is needed to energize the Auxiliary Battery relay, item 7 in the drawing. In versions prior to 2014 this energizing voltage came from a connection made to B4 on the Under Hood Fuse Block. Can anyone shed some light how this relay gets it's energizing voltage and where and how the connection is made?
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battery Auxiliary Camper Battery for 2500HD Silverado
Cable posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
I intend to install the camper auxiliary battery in my 2017 Silverado 2500HD. A few of the parts needed are on hand such as a 12135194 isolation relay and some cables. Still need to get appropriate fuses. The truck does is not equipped with RPO TP2, Battery, Auxiliary Camper option. A parts list of GM parts for the TP2 Auxiliary Battery would be a big help. I desire to get a layout drawing for the TP2 option harness and schematics. Most important are; 1.) where best to get the energizing voltage for my isolation relay and 2.) where to best connect with the 30 Amp line going to the trucks existing 7 pin trailer connector and where to interrupt the existing 12 volts from the under hood fuse box. Thanks -
Newer user to this forum, though I have been on others in the past... I am getting different opinions from different family and friends- many seem to contradict each other. So I thought I would ask this community for thoughts. The wife and I have recently purchased, used from friends, a new camper. The camper is a 30 foot Coachman Catalina (1997). The book weight of this trailer says 5,100lbs and includes trailer brakes. I am planning to haul with my 2012 GMC Sierra 1500. Specs on the truck include; 4x4, crew cab, max trailer package (5.3 KDL HD Cooling Package, trailer brake harness, 3.42 ratio). I have installed the Tekonsha P3 brake controller and am planning to use a weight distributing hitch with sway control. I am currently leaning toward the Camco Recurve R6 hitch to meet both these needs (receiver hitch is rated to 1,100lbs with WD hitch). The truck manual max trailer weight states 9,500lbs with a GCWR of 15,000lbs (truck GVWR 7,000lbs). I do understand the balancing required between truck and trailer for GCWR; if truck fully loaded is 5,500lbs and tongue weight is 1,000 pounds the max trailer becomes 8,500 pounds not the book stated 9,500. So, with this info I have some friends stating that this will fall well within the limits of the truck. And others stating that I need at minimum a 3/4 ton truck to haul this camper. Based on the info I have been able to collect I feel like I should be just fine with this trailer and truck combination... Yes it will be heavy, but not reaching the max weights- or even coming close (I am estimating 7,000lbs trailer fully loaded). And with trailer brakes and a quality proportional brake control I feel confident in stopping power. *I guess my analogy/thought is this; if I am mowing a 1/4 acre lawn, sure a riding mower would be great, but a push mower will get the job done just fine and without any difficulty. Am I right in thinking that while a 3/4 ton truck would be easier, my 1/2 ton will get the job done just fine?
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So I currently have a bakflip MFX4 on my truck...it does ok, but it does leak...more of the issue is that my wife started a new business and in some instances it would be very beneficial to have more room, dare I say a camper shell. No offense to anyone who might have one, but I'm not into the old school multi-level jobs...but I am trying to warm up to the cab-level versions...we just started this process, so I'm not even real sure about pricing and models, etc. I would prefer kind of a sporty look to enhance the look of my truck rather than detract from it... If you could post some pics, model/manf, prices etc, and recommendations, I would certainly appreciate it. really so far I have come across Leer, ARE, Snugtop...but haven't really found much about each of them yet... Thanks in advance.
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I've been looking at the Softopper for my new Silverado but at about $857 I'm wondering if they would give us a group buy discount. Anyone interested?
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From the album: My Truck
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Hi All, I picked up a used A.R.E. truck cap this last weekend. I have a few over night excursions, I'd like to attend and finding a decent motel with vacancies has been a problem. So, I decided to see what was available in the truck cap department. Of course finding a "cheap" used cap for a 2014 doesn't work. But, I did find a 2000 - 2006 era, A.R.E., 6.5', fiberglass cap of the right color on Craig's List. The caps seem to run from 2000/2006, 2007/2013 and 2014/2015. So, I wasn't optimistic about it fitting or not looking totally out of place. I don't know what the cost of a new cap is, but have heard, $1100 and up. My little beauty was settled on, at $275. I don't intend to keep it on, when I'm not needing it, so my next project will be a hoist to hang it in the barn. I've learned, the new tailgate shape is referred to, as a "whale tail". The cap door for the straight tailgates closed against the back of the tailgate. I believe, the new ones close to seal, on the top of the tailgate. So I cut the bottom of the aluminum off, below the handle, reversed the rubber seal and remounted the "sweep", up about 1" higher. Replaced the window screening and wired the third brake light ... Chevy makes that pretty easy, as the proper wire is in the rear by the spare tire. You can see, in the last picture, that the back door isn't closing properly ... that was before the modification.
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Hey! I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 crew cab 4x4 short bed, 4 inch lift with 17 inch wheels. I'm looking into a suitable camper for my truck. Lance advertises the 2500's as a suitable truck for the 855s model, but it is obviously well over the payload capacity when wet.... before adding everything else to the equation. Does anyone here "push the limits" successfully? I know all about the insurance issues with a set-up like this. Airbags and E-rated tires are on my truck as well. Thanks for your replies in advance.
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My first GM was a 1967 1/2 ton step side painted in Caterpillar yellow with a 3 on the tree. That was about 1975. Wish I still had that one! I bought a new GMC 1/2 ton 6.2 diesel in 1982, another in 3/4 ton in 1989 (added a turbocharger to that one and had the fastest diesel in town!), a 1995 TransAm I hot-rodded, but had to sell when insurance got ugly, another 3/4 ton in 6 liter gas in 1999, then a Duramax extended cab 2500HD 4x4 in 2003. That one got a leveler kit (Ford torsion keys), air bags, 4" exhaust, cold air, 255x85x16 tall skinnies, and a Hypertech tune. It was a great truck for 12 years and was badass fast. It carried my 2003 Lance Camper nicely. I retired a couple of months ago and the truck had given me 12 great years. Last week I decided to give myself a retirement gift to myself. I bought a new Silverado 3500 HD LTZ Z71 long bed crew cab. I figured this could be the last ruck I buy, so I found one loaded for a good price and they gave me more for my old truck that I was figuring I would get on the street. So far I've added Torklift camper mounts, a Curt front receiver, a 7-way camper plugin in the bed side, and a FlipBak VP hard tonneau. New 2" lift keys are waiting for me at the post office, so that will be the project for tomorrow or the next day. With almost 400 HP, I don't think I'll hot rod this one. At least for a while ;-). I fitted the camper on it today and discovered that Chevy had made the bed sides much taller than my 2003. When I lowered the camper onto the truck, it was within 1/16" on touching the bed rails. I was afraid a too-fast corner may tip the camper enough to impact the rail top. I decided to get a 1" compressed foam insulation sheet to put under it. That worked perfectly! I can go camping again. I love to hunt and camp (an elk and a nice mule deer this year). So Chevy trucks have been hauling me into far off-the-road places for years; from Alaska (22+ years), to Arizona (9 years), to Washington State (now, 10 years). They have never left me stranded. Most of the times its been hauling a 9.5 foot camper also. Great trucks!
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I have a new 2015 Chevy 3500 SRW crew cab long bed diesel and had 5000lbs airbags installed. I'm now searching for a camper. I bought this truck for the approx. 4,200lbs payload capacity stated in the Chevy brochure. If I subtract the curb weight from GVWR I get about 3,900lbs payload capacity. Either number is fine with me. When I got the truck home, however, I found a sticker in the glove box stating that the maximum camper weight ("cargo weight rating") for the truck is about 2,900lbs! That's a lot less than the payload number. (The sales guy sure did not mention that!) 2,900lbs is not much capacity at all. In fact, per the weight ratings on the Lance web site, they do not make a single long bed camper that I can put on my new one ton truck. Even the 8 foot models would be too heavy once they are loaded up. Of course, the camper sales guy says to ignore all this and go with a really heavy 11 foot camper. He says he sells this combination all the time. What's going on? Is the entire cabover camper industry building products that violate truck ratings? Is Chevy being screwy with a max camper weight that is dramatically under payload capacity? Is nearly every truck camper on the road today dramatically overloaded? I sure did not spend the money on a new one-ton truck to put a lightweight pop-up camper on it. If anyone has any insight into this I would really appreciate it.
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From the album: Summer fun!
Pic of my rig set up for summer fun! Gotta say, I do love that 8.1 torque and power! And it even gets better MPG (towing that is!) then my tired 5.3! Not towing, yeah not so much! -
Another successful Regatta down in Great Valley, NY. The only pics took of the setup I think. Still charging the camera.. Drunk and disorderly weekend... sun was shining. One of the best yet.
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I have been noticing a bad bounce when going over bumps when towing the TT. I had new shocks installed on the rear but that did nothing to remedy the issue. I did not replace the front shocks yet. Could those be the culprit? It almost feels like the camper is "pushing" down and forward while going over bumps. Truck and camper are in my sig. Any other info to help rememdy this would be helpful! Thanks!
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From the album: Summer fun!
Pic of my old rig. Needless to say the rig was a bit much for the ol girl! Hope your new owner is treating ya good. I miss ya but at the same your replacement is a BEAST!!
