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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
Found 5 results
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New vibrations after clutch job . Any suggestions?
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I have a 2015 Silverado High Country. It only has 44740 miles. All of a sudden the AC went out and the Clutch does not engage. I have check fuses but am unable to locate the AC Clutch Relay. There is not a relay in the under hood fuse box in space 71. Haynes states the location is there. I have checked a 2017 Silverado LTZ and it also does not have the relay. Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you
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I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
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Desperate for help! Long-time lurker... I have a '15 Sierra 5.3L with some A/C problems and I can't take the heat! Last summer it wouldn't hold any refrigerant and I didn't fix it right away because I would be gone overseas for 9 months. When I got back, I replaced the infamous condenser that displayed huge amounts of leakage in the same upper right corner. Pulled a vacuum, charged it, PAG oil, etc... it worked perfectly for about 5 months. NOW.... out of nowhere, it's blowing hot air again. I hooked up gauges and initially before doing anything else it showed 100PSI on the low and 150PSI on the high with the compressor refusing to engage. I've replaced the pressure sensor hoping for a cheap fix to no success. Pulled a vacuum (vacuum held for 15 minutes) and attempted to refill, but the compressor refuses to engage. Upon starting the engine the clutch face looks like it is engaging and stops after a few seconds. With the A/C on, the clutch face IS magnetized and seems like it is attempting to engage spinning slowly and making half turns every so often. It doesn't make any weird noises and is free spinning while "engaged". I have read about trying to jump the clutch coil directly with battery power to see if it engages, but I don't know if there is an easier way (i.e. relay) than reaching down to the harness on the compressor. Do I need a new compressor? Or a new clutch? Or can someone smarter than me tell me what I'm doing wrong haha
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I have a 2006 Silverado WT with the 4.3 and NV3500, and am in the process of ordering everything for a clutch swap within the next week or so. I'm almost fairly certain I want to go with an Exedy clutch kit, including master and slave cylinder. I've used Exedy before and have been happy with it thus far. What I really can't decide on is what brand flywheel to use. I'm leaning toward a Sachs NFW1055, but I've only seen one review on it and the person mentioned it was incorrectly balanced and it had to be sent back. Just seeing if anyone else has done a clutch swap on a 4.3 and what brands were used. I probably wouldn't normally ask, but Exedy doesn't appear to make a flywheel for this truck, leaving me to find an alternate brand flywheel. Also, the main reason I'm doing a clutch swap is because the truck shifts and drives horrendously. Grinding gears, clutch pedal engaging at the floor, jerky engagement, etc. I've seen mixed information on different forums about this issue never really being resolved and some people never get a properly functioning clutch before it's over. I've seen comments as simple as someone had the same symptoms and swapped the clutch and it drove like new. Then I've seen people say there is a GM service bulletin out over trucks assembled in Mexico using the wrong master cylinder and a revised replacement part has to be used, a clutch swap has been done with little change in symptoms, etc. I'm hoping replacing the entire clutch system will take care of all this. Input on this would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!
