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Found 119 results

  1. From the album: 2014 GMC Sierra 3500HD Denali HD

    These are the Spyder-Xtune LED Halo projector headlights I got from CARid. Descent quality and packaged well, in fact too well. The heat from the expanding foam packaging they use adhered itself to the sealant on the sides of the lens.

    © Customcabinetpro

  2. I was wondering if the full LED headlamps that come with the LTZs and High Country models, were compatible with the LT models. And if they aren't, is there anyway we can make them compatible? (2016 models) I'm trying to switch out the chrome headlights that only have the LEDs on the top for gloss black headlights like the midnight edition.
  3. I was wondering if anyone has tried the Putco XM-L2 or Nite-Lux LED headlamp conversion on a 2014 Sierra. According to Putco, the XM-L2 puts out 2000 lumens, and the Nite-Lux is 2500 lumens. I think this could be a boost, the Nite-Lux especially, to the poor headlamp design of the 2014 Sierra. But was curious if anyone had any experience with them.
  4. 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Headlights Assembly Pair upgraded LED bulbs 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Headlight assembly. Driver and Passenger Side Halogen bulbs upgraded to Xenon Depot LED lights Great condition, minor scratches and bug residue $400 OBO + Shipping
  5. Two others owners found they were and have sued GM. CarCompliants.com reports that it has received complaints about the issue from other owners as well. The two owners that sued laid out a pretty interesting case. They say the GMC 9012 halogen single filament bulb design is not bright enough for safety. Prior to that new design the truck used a total of three bulbs; A H11LL bulb for the low beams, a 9005LL bulb for the high beams and a 5202 bulb for the fog lights To see all the details, check out the story at CarComplaints here.
  6. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 11/09/2015 Do you find that the headlights in your 2014 or 2015 GMC Sierra are too dim at night? Two others owners found they were and have sued GM. CarCompliants.com reports that it has received complaints about the issue from other owners as well. The two owners that sued laid out a pretty interesting case. They say the GMC 9012 halogen single filament bulb design is not bright enough for safety. Prior to that new design the truck used a total of three bulbs; A H11LL bulb for the low beams, a 9005LL bulb for the high beams and a 5202 bulb for the fog lights To see all the details, check out the story at CarComplaints here.
  7. Hey everyone im new to the forum, I have a 99 gmc sierra that I've owned for the last 10 years. One of the last things I've been trying to upgrade is the headlights. I have the original housings on there still and have been trying to find some basic smoked housings, not projectors or anything like that. Is there a good aftermarket set of lights that fits like the oem ones did. I had bad luck with ordering tail lights in the past and had to modify them the best i could stop they looked decent, I also ordered headlights and not cheap ones, but they are very loose and don't fill in the opening compared to the stock ones. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance
  8. Ok so I've been debating on headloghts for my 2015 gmc sierra z71 for a while now. I liked the recon lights for a while but after reading ALOT of bad reviews I was hesitant. I was going for the blacked out look and I did not care for the anzo's so I took a chance, pulled the trigger and bout the recon's. Got them in today and I LOVE EM! You have to be very patient to install them but for the most part it wasn't all that difficult. The two worst parts are gonna be getting the plastic painted trim piece along the bumper out without feeling like your gonna completely destroy it and the worst part is going to be aiming the lights but hopefully this thread will help someone if they is tall these lights. Low beam projectors are simple to adjust but the high beams are tricky, due to the limited space I found that a 8mm ratcheting wrench and a long skinny pair of needle nose pliers will get u back there without having to tear the entire front end back down to adjust the high beams. All in all freaking awesome lights! PRO'S *the projectors in them with my morimoto HID'S are twice as brights as my factory lights were and a much better pattern and no dark spots, (one thing I worried about after reading all the reviews on there headlights. *fitment is perfect, fit just like factory with no gaps on the seams. *when brights are on the projector and reflector lights burn together, and these sicker are the brightest lights I've ever had when on high beams. * great quality and we'll built. CONS *bottom row of leds are bright but the oled bar doesn't even look like it's on during the day. (Looks cool at night tho). *adjusting them can be a bit of a b*%&h. *removing the front painted bumper trim. All in all I am very satisfied with them. Very bright and look great. *recon smoked headlights with morimoto 5500k/35 watt ballst, Phillips nights breaker high beams,diode dynamics led switchbacks.
  9. Gauging interest in selling my 2014 SLT headlights with 47,000 miles on them. These are completely stock. I want to switch over to an aftermarket headlight. $800 OBO. Text 507-358-8575 for quicker response.
  10. Hey all, Im new to this forum and had a question. I tried looking into it but couldn't find much. I have a 99 GMC Sierra 1500, and don't like the headlights on it. Does anyone know if you could take out the headlights and front grill, and replace them with the newer GMC Sierra headlight and grill style? Thanks a bunch! -Hunter
  11. I had someone tell me a while back that there is a company who makes the style of a 07-13 grill, the way the headlights sit on top of each other instead of a gap, that would fit a 99-06 body style. I've been looking for one for about a month. Has anyone else heard of this?
  12. NinjaFace

    Lowered

    From the album: 2014 sierra in progress

    Pic i took at the 2016 MotoGp race.
  13. Has anyone tried this single wire 4hi mode with the yellow wire located in the D3 hole of the power distribution box unDer the hood on 99-02 read about it on some other halfass forum and tried it on buddies hoe got nothing
  14. [/media] [/media] When IIHS gets to trucks we will be sure to bring the results to you ASAP. For now, you can check out the results of the mid-size car evaluations. Only one vehicle scored good, a Prius V with optional LED lighting. You can see how the Malibu did here.
  15. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 3/30/2016 One of GM-Trucks.com's top news posts was "Are the Headlights Dim In Your '14 or '15 Sierra?" That story did about twice as well with pageviews and comments as our typical well-read stories. Readers filled our pages with comments about dim headlights in GM trucks. Until now, there has been no objective third-party testing to help buyers to judge the effectiveness of headlights in the cars and trucks we buy. That is changing. Today, the Insurance Institute For Highway Safety (IIHS) released its first-ever ratings for headlights. The Institute has a new Vehicle Test Center with an indoor test track ideal for conducting such tests. The tests are not subjective either. IIHS uses sensors that read the amount of visible light from both high and low beams in a variety of driving scenarios. The group gives extra credit for adaptive headlights (that swing side to side) and auto-high-beams, but only if those systems actually work well. The group also takes points away if a vehicle's headlights blind on-coming drivers in low-beam mode. When IIHS gets to trucks we will be sure to bring the results to you ASAP. For now, you can check out the results of the mid-size car evaluations. Only one vehicle scored good, a Prius V with optional LED lighting. You can see how the Malibu did here.
  16. For some people the low beam headlights can be changed by squeezing your hands in there and getting to them or removing the airbox on the passenger side. The issue with that is that all the other bulbs in that headlight are not accessible. There are many videos but none seemed to be straight forward enough or seemed way to hard so here it is in a few steps. So here goes: Socket sizes are 10 and 7mm First step is removing the 8 fasteners that hold the top cover on. Flat head screw driver works just fine. After removing the plastic cover it will reveal 4 bolts which i believe are 13mm. After removing those remove the 2 bolts on each side that hold the plastic piece below the grill. (they are exposed on the fender well and are 9 or 10mm I think) Next there are 6 clips that hold the grill to the truck. I used channel lock pliers and was easily able to release all the clips. Once you release them, pull them far enough back to have them disconnected from truck. This is where it gets a little tricky but isn't really hard. For me, I grabbed the middle of the painted trim piece and pulled back slightly and worked my way to each side of the truck, releasing it little by little. Once you get to the very ends near the fender well, grab where the bolts were and pull it away from the truck and very slowly work your way around the curve. Because the part is actually pinched in between 2 other parts it takes a little bit of pressure to get it to pull out, and it is also held by a type of clip that doesn't need released, just a little pressure pulling straight out. Don't try to make it come out the first time, I added a little pressure each time I pulled to try to help it work its own way out. The straighter you pull towards you the better, as I said there are clips that hold it. once the 2 sides release you should be able to pull the grill and that trim piece out and set it aside. Once that is out, its easy from here. Each headlights is held in with 3 bolts, 2 of which are easily accessible before you did all that work as they are right on the top. The last bolt is now easily accessible as well. There is a plastic brace looking thing on each corner of the truck with a hole in it. That is your access to the 3rd bolt. Very easy to get to with a short extension. After that one is out the headlight is yours. There are 2 alignment pins on the outside edges of the light so grab toward the fender and pull that side first and then it slides out of the bottom bracket. There is one main big plug that you squeeze to disconnect and then the entire headlight is free from the truck. So after doing what you needed done, reposition the headlight where it goes and install the 3 bolts per light. To reinstall the grill and trim piece set it up as centered as possible and start in the middle. There are good size tabs on the piece that slide into brackets that are on the bumper. So starting in the middle align the tabs and and work to both sides until the corners slide back in. Push the clips back in on the grill, reinstall all bolts and the top cover and youre done. I did not have all the bulbs I needed to do what I wanted to do so I will be doing this again when I have them all and may take pics or a video of it when I do. Any questions let me know. This is how I did it, if you break something its on you if you are changing your grill the steps are identical except you don't have to remove the headlights. all in all its not bad to do, the fear of breaking that trim piece is the worst as it does take some pressure to get it free. I did not use a tool just my hands to pull on it. ​
  17. Please PM me with your shipped price. I have received a couple prices - not looking for aftermarket/Eagle Eye knock-offs. Looking for OEM projector headlights for the Chevrolet Silverado 2014-2015. I am in Austin, Texas. Does not need to come with bulbs, must include all wires and dust caps must not be drilled out. If they're already painted gloss black, I will pay extra. If you want stock chrome OEM reflector headlights for the Chevrolet Silverado 2014-2015 and would like to trade, please pm me as well.
  18. Like the title says: Looking to purchase 2015 work truck headlights or OEM headlights with black trim. Thanks.
  19. A 2016 Silverado WT with standard compact HID headlights, LED DRL, LED Turn Signals, & LED Marker Lights LED's (Light Emitting Diodes) are also being deeply ingrained into the model. LED daytime running lamps, turn signals, and marker lights will be standard on every single Silverado, including work truck models. LT trim levels will be able to opt for LED fog lights and LT Z71 and up models get them standard. LED headlights also come standard on LTZ and High Country models, matching the LED offering by Ford in the new F-150. This addition of next generation HID and LED lighting will modernize the exterior the 2016 Silverado. It will also set the Silverado apart. No other automaker, including Ford and Ram offer HID headlights on their base work trucks. All the other standard LED stuff is just icing on the cake and a competitive advantage for Chevrolet. . And this is just the beginning. Expect other Chevy models to receive the same full-LED treatment in the next two years. What do you think? Will offering more standard LED and HID lighting than the competition equate to a sales boost for Chevrolet?
  20. I need a little help. I bought a 2016 Denali hd 3500 with plow prep. I had a western plow professionally installed and now when I unlock my doors or turn on my headlights they flicker for about 30 seconds. The 2016 models have hid headlights factory and everything was suppose to be professionally installed. Can anyone help. Thanks in advance and I hope I posted this in the correct spot? By the way I am a die hard ford owner for heavy duty trucks and the fords do not hold a candle to this GMC! Switched all my vehicles to gmc products!
  21. alright, so if you want to do just a retrofit, just some halos, or just want to know how to make your headlights look 100x's cooler then stop searching cause you found the right thread! to start, heres what the end result will be: next, heres the materials you will need: from LED Concepts: Halos: http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/halo-kits/products/halo-headlight-kit-2014-2015-gmc-sierra?variant=878304651 Controller (you'll need 2 if you want to be able to control the halos separately from the DRLs, IMO, it increases the wow factor when you can do them separately): http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/remotes/products/colormorph-bluetooth-music-controller Extension wire so you can have the controllers in a much safer environment. I wanted to mount mine in the cab as I don't trust many things in the long term out in Louisiana weather: http://ledconceptslighting.com/products/colormorph-extension-wire-10-feet I am almost certain that the bluetooth controllers each come with a 4 way splitter but just incase http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/led-components-1/products/colormorph-4-1-splitter Fastheadlights: FXR adapter plate only (for those who want to order their FXR projectors and HIDs from TRS themselves so that you can customize what you get): http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=buy%5Ffxr%2Dadapter%2Dkit%2Donly For those who want to just order everything for the retrofit, Phil has simplified it http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=fxr%5Fretrofit%2Dkit TheRetrofitSource FXR projectors and HIDs (50W 4.5K matches OEM DRLs perfectly, also be sure to get the 3" LHD lens, you can do this with the 2.5" if you rather, but the 3.0 fits like a glove) http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-fx-r-stage-iii-kit.html#.VScPXkI-CDU http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-amp-d2s-ballast-adapters-straight.html#.VScQjkI-CDU http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-retrorubber-butyl-glue-50245.html#.VScQrUI-CDU And the tools and extra items you will need: Dremel w/ cut off wheel heat gun 3.5mm, 5.0mm, and 7.0mm heat shrink (you can get a pack from Harbor Freight for around $3 and you'll have some left over) patience couple towel to lay the lens down on microfiber towel and glass cleaner (I recommend and love "perfect glass") lens tinting spray and clear coat of your choice air compressor to assist with clean up 3M double sided tape scissors HID harness to cut up (or you can make your own connections and such, I got lucky and had an old harness lying around) I want to apologize in advance, I did the first headlight and took pics of several steps and then when doing the second headlight, I realized I didn't take pics of some things that would be helpful for the write up and so I switch from one headlight to the other in some pics AND FINALLY THE PROCESS!!! After you remove the headlights from the truck, you will want to set yourself up in a comfortable work station, lay your headlight down on its back and get your dremel ready cause its time to cut the lens off. Thankfully Phil at FasHeadlights created a video that shows where you'll need to cut After you cut it open, heres what it'll look like Since the chrome bezel is connected to the clear lens, you will want to undo the 2 screws at the bottom so that you can clean out behind the lens and the chrome. Also you will want to trim down the black tabs that are holding the amber pieces in place so that you can clear the lights, or smoke them like I did. I used VHT nightshades. Wanted to use Rustoleum lens tint but no one around here had it in stock (of all the Rustoleum products that Home Depot sells, of course the only thing they don't have in stock is the lens tint From there, you will want to go ahead and remove the chrome reflector cup for the turn signal and the DRL strips so that you can more easily remove the OEM projector you will want to pull on the black plastic around the projector to remove it from the housing, I personally used a rubber mallet and a metal push rod thing that I found lying around in my garage. I held the plastic connected to the projector, placed the rod with one end on the white tabs and used the mallet to knock the white tabs out since that is how the projector and its mount plate are held in. Once you have that free, you can unbolt the OEM projector from the plate and using the FXR adapter kit from Phil, you will want to put your FXR to the adapter plate and then after it is mounted to the adapter plate, then you will want to connect the adapter plate to the mounting plate. Before putting the adapter plate to the mounting plate, you will have to cut off the mounting posts from the OEM projector I apologize that I did not get any pics of the back of the mounting plate or cutting off the mount tabs, but it is a self expiatory process at this point thanks to the plates that Phil made (hadn't finished mounting the FXR to the adapter plate yet) Next you will want to hook up the high beam shutter. The 2 red wires coming from the FXR projector are not polar sprcific, so you can just stick them into the OEM connectors for the high beam. I used the 5MM Heatsink to barely slide over the OEM connector and then the 3.5MM connector to just seal the other heatsink to the wire so that it will hold stronger. Overkill? Maybe, but peace of mind that it should never have an issue is priceless, especially since I never want to reopen this light again haha. After you check to make sure everything is mounted securely, you can reinstall and now you are finished with the retrofit! If you are using this write up just for the retrofit, you can skip to the end to read about how to seal it (PS, it just finished raining pretty hard just now and I went out to check, no moisture! I'm extremely happy about that!) After seal up I'll show how I ran my harness. I am now realizing I don't have wires showing how all the wires are run but I will get some and add them when I can Now to the halos and DRL mods After the projects are in place, just stick your halos to the projector, next step is to drill a "mail slot" hole to run your wires through Before you put the DRLs back in so that you can put in the LED strips, you will want to drill a small "mail slot" looking hole in the housing so that you can fish the wires through to the outside. I put the hole at the bottom of the housing so that I could keep the wires hidden after everything is back together on the truck. bad picture but its the only one I have of the hole I cut Take your 3M DS tape and scissors and line the inboard side of the headlight with a trail of tape so that you can stick the wires from the color changing strips to it so they aren't moving around when driving. btw, the picture shows the bottom inboard corner of the headlight (this is on the driver side headlight) after the hole is made and the 3M tape is in place then you will want to reinstall the OEM DRLs and put in the color change strips. Prep the color change strips to go in, you will want to cut off 9 LEDs from the strips that are going into the top DRL so that they will fit perfectly. Heres how the LED strips should be placed and the wires run after the LEDs are in place and the wires are run, you will put all the wires through your mail slot, and then use some of the rubber butyl to seal the hole from the inside and out. Just play with the butyl for about 10 seconds and then mash it around the wires. Make sure that you get the butyl all up on the housing and all throughout the wires so that it won't allow moisture to get through, do this on both the inside and outside to be sure that it is sealed MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ALL THE WIRE THAT YOU NEED ALREADY THROUGH THE HOLE BECAUSE ONCE THE BUTYL IS IN PLACE, THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO HAVE TO DO IS REMOVE IT so that you can move the wires okay so now that you have everything done inside of the headlight that you could need to do, its time to seal it back up! SEALING okay so to seal the headlight back up. I went ahead and just put a line of the Butyl Rubber around the lip of the headlight, then used the heat gun to warm up the butyl so that when I pressed the lens back down, it would more easily smash down and get up all up in any openings. I did not stretch out the butyl much. I wanted a nice thick amount of butyl to help maximize the chances of sealing the headlight 100% I didn't get a picture of this but should have, I apologize for that After heating the butyl, I placed the lenses back in place and called it a night The next morning, I went out and took the headlights out of my garage and sat them in the sun and rolled my truck under a EZ-Up canopy so that I could start running the wire harness for the HIDs I made sure to leave the headlights in the direct sun so that the butyl could warm up again and probably a bit more effectively than it did by running the heat gun over it. After they sat in the sun for around 2-2.5 hours since i was so occupied with the harness, I picked up the lights and smashed the edges of the lens down one more time to make sure that the butyl was all over and the headlights were sealed How I ran the harness The harness I had a good bit of fun with (sarcastic) cause I wanted it as hidden as possible. I went ahead and used a self tapping screw to mount the relays on the driver side directly opposite of the air box As you can see I ran the wires in the dead space on the sides of the engine bay. I extended the wire going to the battery and ran it over the engine with some of the OEM wires that go across the back wall, and connected to the battery. Then I ran the other wires that went to the other headlight inside of the bar that goes across the front end and is covered by the plastic cover that has GMC on it. Hides the wires really well. I had to make an extender for that side so that it would reach the ballast. I just cut off some of the connection on an old relay I had lying around to make the extension and so so modifications were made to the harness from TRS. The ballasts are 3M DS taped to the tops of the headlight housings The passenger side ballast has to be turned at an angle so it will fit on account of the air box being there to avoid having to make a after the relay is in place, then you can run the wires for the LED Concepts lights. The wires will be run form the bottoms of the headlights, up the side of the grille and then up underneath the metal bar, that way all the wires are completely hidden when the plastic cover goes on. Oh and the driver boxes for all the LEDs are hidden in the bar. They are all bolted into place Wires will go through the upper hole in this pic you'll have to notch out some of the plastic so that the wires will fit, you should only have to do that on the passenger side, the driver side is open boxes bolted in place now some of you are probably wondering about the OEM output, well one doesn't get used but how does it connect to the relay? Well I wanted to try not to have to make another hole in the headlight if I could avoid it, so I did! I made my own little connector that would plug into the harness and used a male quick disconnect and T-tap to tap into the low beam circuit on the truck harness that plugs into the back of the headlight. The wire that you will want to tap is the yellow wire on the harness, you will ground to one of the bolts near the harness and you can just plug into the harness the control boxes are mounted inside the cab, this is where the 10ft extensions come into place. The DRLs will all be hooked to a splitter which will have to be hardwired to the 10ft extension and then the wires will be run down the side of the engine bay, and then through to the driver side door jam where you can run the wires through the same hole where all of your wires for your electronics on the door run. Just pull the weather proofing boot off and then run the wires through and then put the boot back on. This will leave you with plenty of wire still in the cab so that your mounting locations can stay as plentiful as possible, but still limited Your RGB wires will follow the red line The control boxes pull power from the cig lighters under the infotainment system I hope this helps everyone out who is looking to do something similar. I searched for a long time but couldn't find any write ups about how to do all this work so I wanted to make it as informative as possible and hopefully I achieved that. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask or PM me. If you need more pics of anything, I can get them for you I also want to give a HUGE thanks to a few people for help that they have given me, I want to thank Dcarl for letting me know how to remove the OEM projector mounting plate, Johnny_KCCO and Stevencox93 for letting me know how they tinted lenses on their trucks, and Phil from Fastheadlights for making great products and helpful videos
  22. I have added a digital glowshift pressure guage to my 2014 silverado. It requires +12v to enable dimming at night (this is not a variable dimming feature). Glowshift is less than helpful in assisting with wiring needs. Does anyone know how to connect to the auto-headlight feature or some other method so that the guage can receive 12v and enable appropriate dimming at night?
  23. I see A LOT of post about running these in Sierras but not much on the Silverado. Anyone running any sort of Retrofit LED in the OEM Silverado projector housings? And if so, anything special that I would need to know? Currently looking at what xenondepot has to offer. Thank you!
  24. Hey ladies and gents, Wondering if anybody can shed some light on a couple issues I have (pun intended). Anyways I bought a led headlight kit with canbus adapter and fogs for my '15 Sierra and have a couple issues: - the led headlight install was simple except from what I read the led's should be clocked at 9 and 3 when locked in. When i put them in, they fit in at 9 and 3 and when locked in they are more at 2 and 8 any remedy for this? - the canbus adapter to truck harness is opposite. The red wire matches the red wire but the locking "nub" is on the opposite side of the clip. How do I correct this? - the led fogs will not clip in no matter what I do. They're orintated correctly and I have even swapped the o rings from the factory bulbs. They just won't clip in. Any help is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance.
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