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Lookinh for torque specs for wheel bearing hub assembly bolts, caliper housing bolts and axle hub bolt on a 2015 gmc sierra sle 1500 5.3l 4×4 crew cab
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Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
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Hello, does anyone have any info on which package truck I have? I know there is a Custom Sport edition but I think that is only for crew cabs it also is a different shade of white than what I have. There also is a Midnight edition for the all balck Silverados... I am just curious as to what my package is called because where I am located I havent seen a truck like mine since I have owned it the past 6 months or so. Thank you in advance!
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Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
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Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
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Hey guys, i posted a while back about this problem and did everything i was asked to see if i could fix it. Im not in a much better place with way more tools and a lift so hopefully i can finally fix it. I have a 2005 gmc yukon slt with 4wd. It is having a weird problem where it gets stuck in 4 wheel high. The only time it can get out of it is the second i start the car it will change when pressed but about 15-20 min later it will go back into 4 high. It has even tire wear (all about 10/32nds) it does have the "service 4 wheel drive " message and an abs light but no scan tool i have used has given me a conclusive answer. Do any of you have ideas on what it could be or a quick way to keep it in 2wd? Im scared taking the front drive shaft out could just cause problems.
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I have a 1993 GMC Sierra C1500 v6 4.3L with an automatic transmission and i have tried replacing the distributor cap, router button, spark-plugs and the module that sits under the distributor cap but nothing works it just rolls tries to kick and if it does start it dies instantly. also when trying to start it smoke rolls out of the throttle body I have no clue how to fix this -
I have a 1995 3500Hd - 7.4 454 - I want to put the edelbrock 3764 intake on - The 1995 has the the electrical plug in egr - The intake is for the older 1990 7.4 vacuum egr - Can this be done ?? - By piping in vacuum egr & not using the plug in ?? will it throw code or effect performance - has anyone done this ?? , Thanks , Tim
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A few months ago I replaced the stock speakers that came with my truck. I put in Rockford Fosgate 3-way speakers. It worked for a while, now no sound comes from the speakers. They will come in every now and then, but not often. I think it’s the head unit. What could be the issue? -
Hey everyone I am new to this whole "modifying" your truck thing. I bought a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 All-Terrain 5.3L. The only thing I have done is put a K&M CAI in and am currently looking at a leveling kit but want to upgrade to 33" or 35" (if possible) tires. I also want to hear everyone's opinions on modifications they have done to their truck that didn't break the bank and their favorite ones. Pictures would be beneficial too. Thank you in advance!
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I just bought a 2010 Silverado LTZ 4x4 last Thursday and a few days ago it started leaking oil, and now I noticed it smokes from the engine bay on startup. It's not a lot of smoke, but it smokes on startup and smells like something is burning and then a few seconds later it'll stop. I opened up my engine bay and it looks like it is coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold, maybe a worn exhaust gasket? I'm not sure. It is white smoke, and there is a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust as well. It's hardly noticeable from the exhaust, but when looking in the engine bay you can clearly see it. If anyone has any ideas what this could be please help me out. -
Hi guys.. any one have a spare spring arm assembly for a c4500 4x4 ? Cant find one any where .. need one asap.
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Hello everyone, I am new to the GM forum, I am looking for help. I own a 2008 chevy Silverado truck and I had a mechanic try to repair a warning light. I don't know what the code was for the warning light. All I know right now is that the mechanic replaced a two parts called Throttle body assembly and accelerator pedal and the warning light went away but now my idle sounds rough. Is this normal ? The mechanic told me to drive it for a few day until it goes back to normal, Is this right? I need to make sure the vehicle is operates normal so i can get it to a smog station. Anyone out there that can please help .... Thank you !!!
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OK 2008 SILVERADO 5.3 NO ENGINE CODES BUT RANDOM REDUCE POWER KICKS IN, SHUT IT OFF WAIT FOR A MIN OR TWO CRANK UP AN GO . THOUGHT MY AFM (ACTIVE FUEL MANAGEMENT) WAS THIS TROUBLE SO RUN IN 3RD GEAR TO KEEP IT OUT OF THE AFM BUT NO DID IT AGAIN ,REPEAT OFF WAIT AN GO NOW KEEP IN MIND WITH A HIGH END SCANNER NO CODES POP UP OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AT ALL JUST GOES TO REDUCE POWER MODE . HERE'S WHAT HAS BEEN DONE NEW ECM,CLEAN GROUNDS ON ENGINE ,REPLACE ENDS ON GROUNDS ,ADDED GROUND A 14AWG WIRE FROM BATTERY GROUND TO ALL ENGINE, BODY GROUNDS , CLEAN PEDAL TPS, AND CONNECTOR , THROTTLE BODY, AND CONNECTOR ,REPLACED OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT, IGNITION SWITCH,DID A RELEARN , CHECKED ALL THE WIRES PULLED THE LOOM OFF RELOOMED AN TAPE CHECK CRANK SENSOR AN CONNECTORS ...SO NOW IM AT A LOST IM READY TO SELL OR TRADE THIS THING. SO IF THERE IS SOMETHING IM MISSING OR HAVEN'T TRIED LET ME KNOW!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
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hey im new to the forum and wanted to know if there are any other towing mirrors available for a 2017 GMC Canyon other than clearview. Thanks!
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Factory Trailer Brake Controller
Chevyguy4287 posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado & Sierra HD Mods
So I've read already that you can't integrate a factory brake controller in a vehicle that didn't come with one by simply plugging it in. My question is, if I purchase the factory controller, is there a way for me to modify it so that it works as an aftermarket controller i.e. not having to break the bank or put holes in my kick panel. -
My 2004 Silverado 1500 AC is not blowing out of the top vents, it only blows from bottom. I took it to get diagnosed and asked for name and part number but when I looked online I couldn't find it. He said he it was called a "control head' part number 599-009. What can I do to fix this?
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02 Sierra 2500hd 8.1 turn key to first click and starter cranks over engine starts and starter stays engaged.
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I have a 99 Silverado 1500 with the floor shift transfer case. I’ve been having an issue with my 4wd fuse on the interior fuse panel. Whenever I turn the key the fuse instantly blows wether I’m in 2wd or 4wd hi and low. I’ve seen around that that fuse is for the front axle actuator so I looked around and couldn’t find any obvious shorts, could it be a short in the motor itself?
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This past Sunday here in Conway NH we had a really good snowstorm now my plow truck is a 1988 Chevy Silverado 4x4 turbo 400 transmission now during that storm the wires for the transfer case etc got wrapped up on my front axle ripped them all off now I have been looking everywhere for a easy wiring diagram to fix it anyone have a wiring diagram or tell me how to wire it correctly
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About to install a 2" motofab under strut leveling kit on monday, but am very concerned with torque specs. I can't find the exact torque specs for everything I need, and I don't even know how important it is for everything to be torqued exactly to specs. It's a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ, 4x4. How important is it to be precise when torqueing? Does anyone know where to find all the exact torque specs for my make and model? Has anyone ever done one before, and can you provide insight? Thanks.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 HD, wondering if I had a body control module issue, my heated seats don’t work, my driver side seat only worked half way i.e. The lumbar support works but the lean and moving the seat functions do not, along with my keyless entry not working but my power locks do work. Any ideas?
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Rotor and hub assembly removal/replacement 2015 silverado 1500 LT 4x4 Long time lurker, first time poster I was in the process of changing the brakes and rotors, which was going fine until I got around to the passenger front. I get the caliper bracket off and get the brakes out of the way. Then that’s when i did it, I snapped off the tip of a t-30 torx bit in the head of the brake rotor torx bolt. I’ve tried everything that I can thing of to get it out. Ive tried to drill a small 1/16” hole in the center of the broken bit to have an edge to work with. I’ve tried hand impact tools to just work around it and get the bolt out with no luck. I’ve watched a bunch of good videos, but had no luck so far. That’s bring me to a possible ‘solution,’ as I have to change out the hub assembly,Moog 515160, anyway. I’m think that I could just remove the spindle nut, and the hub hardware bolts and that should release both the rotor and hub as one piece? Thanks in advance for any thoughts, info, guidance! I’ll get some pics to add tomorrow in the daylight. -
I was washing my '93 S10 when all of a sudden I see this bolt on my driveway. It's more of a stud with a totally round head. It's too thin to be a lug nut stud/wheel stud. I believe it came off of the right side of the truck due to its location on the driveway. What could this be??? Any ideas appreciated. P.S. It COULD have came off of my dad's 1967 F100. I will be posting it on the Ford forum as well. ANY ideas appreciated and if you know what this is please let me know!
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I am looking at the Readylift 66-3086 2.25" FRONT LEVELING KIT W/ CONTROL ARMS - GM 1500 TRUCK / SUV 6-LUG 2017-2018 https://www.readylift.com/2-25-front-leveling-kit-w-control-arms-gm-1500-truck-suv-6-lug-2017-2018.html For my 2017 Silverado 1500 LT with factory 17 inch aluminum wheels and 255/70R17 tires. After talking to the company, they said that I may need a 1/2 inch wheel spacer for the front so the control arms don't rub on the wheels. Is this true or is this something to try and get me to buy? The main reason I am looking at replacing the upper control arms is because I have an aftermarket heavy duty bumper with grill guard and it weighs around 200Lbs. That worries me with the factory STAMPED control arms it has now. If I need spacers, what spacer is best and cheap? Would I have to modify the studs? What else would I have to do so it doesn't rub? Thanks!
