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Drives

Found 6 results

  1. Disclaimer: I need a lot of help and don't know what I'm doing besides the research I've done thus far. Which is mixed to say the least. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado with the stock 20" wheels. I have stock Z71 suspension. Stock Tires. Live in CO and blew a tire on the way up to a mountain. Riding full size spare right now, but between that blown tire and a bolt clean through another that is still holding air, I think it's about (well past) time I get new tires altogether. With that comes the choice to go ahead and get my other changes done I'd like as well, including a level kit, smaller wheels, and larger tires (Pathfinder AT 285/70 R17). With that in mind, I'm trying to do it cheaply (I know, f*ck me, first mistake). I found some used MB Wheels TKO wheels on Craigslist off of a taco for hella cheap and picked em up without doing a ton of research (second mistake). They are 17x8.5 6x5.5, which sounds good. Where it starts sounding problematic is the lugs and bore. These wheels are M12x1.5 with a thicc bore size at something around 106mm and obv the Silverado is M14x1.5 with a bore size of 78.1mm. Offset is 27 stock and this wheel is -6. On this offset topic, I don't even know if this will be a problem or not. (possibly third mistake?) My question is, will these wheels function safely on the Silverado if I purchase 60 degree acorn lugs at M14x1.5? What else would I need to do to make these work? Hub Ring? Offset? Am I being a complete moron? Should I just resell the wheels and scrap this? Links: Level Kit I intend to use - https://www.americantrucks.com/motofab-3-front-2-rear-leveling-kit-0718-silverado-1500.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_campaign=description&utm_medium=social&utm_content=ytvid103018MotoFab3front2rearlevelingkit&T5_Var3=silver#product_videos Wheels I purchased second hand - https://www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/mb-wheels-tko/p/47299 Thanks everyone; forgive my ignorance.
  2. How’s it goin fellas, Gotta 2009 Silverado 2500HD 6.0l 6L90. I have BF Goodrich All Terrain TA/KO2, the newest style with the aggressive sidewalks (the older original style looked much better). I have a terrible humming noise, 90% sure it’s coming from front end. I called my tire guy, and told him these tires are killing me with this hum. It’s at any and all speeds over 15mph. He told me check wheel hubs, which I did. I know they are known to go. Truck has 73,000mi in it. From left was replaced around 40,000. I tried every test you can put wheel bearings and hubs through. They are tight! Driving I possibly here less humming when turning left. So that would indicate left hub possibly going bad. I replace it, use skf hub assembly. Still humms, tried all different tire pressures, still humms, replaced right side hub assembly, still humms, replaced all shocks and steering stabilizer with Rancho 5000’s. Still humms, no brake dust shrouds rubbing. I’m outta ideas other than the tires again. Tires have 5,000 miles on them, and I rotate every 3,000. Any ideas? Thanks!!
  3. hello all, I am sure this issue has been beat to death multiple times, but I cant find the answer. I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 z71, I have had this issue for about 2 years now. the issue being that no matter what part I replace my 4wd wont reliably work. here is a list of what parts have been replaced. Drivers side wheel hub- twice Passenger Side wheel hub- three times Diff. actuator- twice 4 button switch on dash- once TCCM- once Transfer case motor- once So what is happening is, the dash will read service 4wd, i have taken it in to a shop where they have been replacing the parts, and i have come to the conclusion they are just throwing parts at it to find a fix. Every time they would replace a part it will work about 2-3 days but then give me the same service 4wd message. if i push one of the 3 4wd buttons on the switch the light will blink for a while then stop and it seems like it doesn't shift into 4wd. But i have crawled under the truck while someone else selects a 4wd button, I can hear and feel the transfer case changing into to 4wd mode. but the front diff actuator does not engage. I have checked and cleaned the ground wire under the drivers door twice but that doesn't seem to help. I am done throwing money at the shop to fix it, so this is my last resort. any help or ideas is greatly appreciated, Thank you,
  4. During a recent 'snow/ice storm' in Portland and frequent use of the 4x4 hi and low, I wore out my passenger hub bearing unit. I knew it was from the 4x4 because after the thaw, I had a severe wobble/clank from that wheel. Long story short, replaced it, it went away. Now, when In 4hi, the drivers front wheel hums, even at a low speed. Not the type of hum you get from freeway speeds, but as though there is some sort of tension that's creating noise. Again, it's only when 4x4 is engaged. I'd like to know if it is the hub or if it's the 4wheel drive itself. There's minor play in the steering at high speeds in 2wheel from my control arm that desperately needs replaced but no play in the wheel itself when it's in the air and I wiggle it back and forth. I would reaaaaallllyyyy like to avoid the shop since just last week I had the tranny rebuilt ? Any insight is appreciated. P.s., there's 240k miles on this rig...except the trans!
  5. I have an 03 Sierra 4WD V8 6 lug. I need to change my front hub assemblies and CV half shafts. I know how to change the half shafts, and I have changed hub assemblies on another vehicle before. I was just wondering if there were any tricks of the trade to making the hub assembly change easier. I know on a 1999 Wrangler you can put a deep well socket on the back side of the hub and against the trailing arm and then just turn the steering wheel and the hub falls right off with little to no beating it with a hammer. I was wondering if there was something like this on these trucks to make it so much easier than beating the ever loving snot out of it and applying large amounts of heat to it. Any advice would be greatly helpful and appreciated!
  6. I need to clean or replace the front wheel speed sensors on my 99 Yukon 4WD. It looks like I need a 1-3/8" socket to get the nut on the hub off... does that sound right? And how do I keep the axle from turning while I'm trying to get that big nut off? I already have the caliper and the rotor off, so the axle spins pretty freely. I thought about sliding a pry bar in between the lugs on the hub, but I'm not sure I'll be able to hold it with enough force to get that big nut off (especially, since the threads look pretty rusted).
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