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Showing results for tags 'k1500 350 vortec chevy'.
First time poster here. I'm not sure how to ask my question without going into a fair amount of detail. I have a 1994 k1500, i bought with a messed up trans and a '350 from a suburban' - note the quotation marks. I work at a dealership and our transmission guy is really good with these transmissions so I took it out and had him rebuilt it for me and he updated all the internals to the 2006+ mechanically but electronically its still a 1994. He tells me it's good for my eventual horsepower goals (600). Everything great and fine but this truck is a dog. Misfires alot has all sorts of issues with the engine, won't idle properly, Yada Yada. I decide to pull the engine. And before we take it apart we look at the casting numbers.... It's a 305... And the heads are for a 350... I was pretty unsure of what to do, however out of the blue I have an opportunity to buy whay should be a good 1998 350 vortec with ecm and full wiring harness for a great deal. There's enough there I have several options but my favorite, if it will work is use the ecm, the new engine and harness and plug it into my 1994 transmission. The question is, can I make it work. Will it run fine? What tuning might I need to do, or transmission modifications to make this work. I'm not opposed to swapping valve bodies and/or tcc solenoids to make this work, and from what I've read that's the biggest difference besides just obd1 to obd2
Hello, I just want to say that I'm glad to be a part of this site. I have owned over 100 cars, trucks, motorcycles and boats in my 57 years but find myself in need of information about them. Electrical issues have never been easy for me and I hope to learn a little bit about them. If I can lend any info to anyone please feel free to ask. Thanks again, IceInTheBack...
Hey guys I'm having problem with my 1995 k1500. The radio/blower/windshield wipers/windows will not work at all....The hazard switch on my truck is broken off and missing....I was driving down the road and my hazards all of a sudden turned on and wouldn't shut off I tried pushing what was left of the button down to make them stop and nothing worked. once I got home I noticed my window would not roll up and my passenger wouldn't roll down. I had to disconnect the battery to get them to stop I ended up pulling the steering column apart and replaced the hazard button along with the turn signal switch. I plugged battery back in and still had no power to those items mentioned..hazards shut on and off though. I replaced my ignition switch and negative battery cable and still have no power to the mentioned items...any help would go a long way!!!
Okay first I want to say that this topic may seem like one that has been beat to death. The only problem is that my truck has no problem starting when warm/hot, it just struggles to turn over when warm/hot. Cranks just fine when it is cold or been sitting for a while just like it used to (one quick turn of the key). A little background on whats been done recently. I have been chasing a coolant leak that started with the radiator hoses. They have all been replaced. The radiator has been replaced. Then the heater core started leaking so I replaced it. Water leak still present so I decided to replace the lower intake manifold gaskets. While doing that job I also replaced all the exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets and all four O2 sensors. Put everything back together and that's when the problems started. Before I removed the Distributor I marked where the housing was in relation to the engine and then marks where the distributor was in relation to the housing. I put the distributor back in according to my marks. Truck started/cranked like normal when I first started it up. Noticed a check engine light but wasn't too concerned at first. I initially had a fuel leak on top of the upper intake where the fuel line come in. Apparently there was an O-ring that I didn't see fall off the ends of the fuel lines when I removed them to get the intake out. Got that sorted out and took it for a test drive. Didn't get a mile down the road and it started bucking about every 20-30 seconds while going down the road. Went to Autozone and had them read the CEL code and it gave me a P0340 (I think that's the number, lost the piece of paper) which was the cam position sensor. I was pretty sure the truck was just out of timing. I don't have a scan tool to adjust the timing so I carried it to a local mechanic. Before I carried the truck I did notice that it was harder to start then normal when it had warmed up. When I say hard to start what I mean is that it starts and fires just fine, it struggles to turn over. Its almost like it has a weak battery but I know it's not the battery because I have had it tested and put it in another vehicle and it starts and turns the other vehicle over just fine. So I was kind of figuring that the timing had something to do with the starting issue when the truck was hot. Got it back yesterday and it bucked shortly after I drove it away from the shop and hasn't bucked since, so I am pleased with that. The only issue is I still have the hard to start/crank issue when it warms up. So my question is where should I start looking? And I do know that with these trucks best practice for adjusting the timing is doing so with an engine speed greater than 1000 RPM's, so with that said could I still have a small issue with the timing causing the hard to crank issue if the shop didn't adjust the timing at the correct engine speed? Thanks for the help guys, I'm stumped.