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Showing results for tags 'l33'.
Found 4 results
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I have an 06 Silverado with 215k miles. Has the L33 Aluminum Block 5.3 in it. It runs great, has good power, but has an odd ticking/knocking noise. It doesn’t make the noise until it’s been running for about a minute so I don’t think it’s exhaust. I also do not think it’s a lifter because it sounds more lower end towards the rear of the engine. Has anyone had any experience with these L33s knocking? It has been making this noise for a while now and it’s very annoying/embarrassing. I’m not sure if oil has anything to do with it but I use penzoil 5w30 full syn. Let me know if you have any ideas, thanks.
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I put new spark plugs in my truck, and didn't know the torque specs for them. I have the L33, which is aluminum. I looked up the torque specs, and got the confused with a 5.7 vortec, which is cast iron. The torque specs for the 5.7 are 25ft-lbs, and the L33 is 13ft-lbs or in that area. You think I overtightened them? I put Bosch platinum 4's in. It isn't misfiring at the moment, but it had kind of a rough start this morning, but it's a little cold out, like 40's. I'm just learning and preparing myself for when I screwed myself for the stupid torque specs.
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I lost the two 7mm screws on the door panel of a 2005 GMC Sierra, does anyone know the part number, or equivalent that will fit? I'm a little leery of giving up and self tapping screws the hell out of my door panel.
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just joined the forum so i guess im the new guy with an old truck... tis the season to be wasting money... 72 c10 l33/4l60e plan is to ditch the 18's and go with some 17" torque thrusts with tall tires out back and then maybe re-address the ride height. currently 5" in the rear and 4.5" up front. it had slightly sloppy steering so I changed out the steering intermediate shaft for a nice u-joint version. the doofus before me "changed the rear brakes" but never adjusted the shoes properly so the wheel cylinders started to seep and ruined the shoes on one side so im going to replace both wheel cylinders and shoes. so once I cracked open the rear end I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the open diff was completely smoked. I don't even know how it held together on my trip home. kinda scary. sucks that I had to shell out cash I wasn't expecting to but at least its only the diff and not the entire housing etc etc. I decided to go with an Eaton limited slip that is currently in route. im going to do the diff swap, diff seals, axle seals, wheel cylinders and brake shoes all at once. hope to have it buttoned up by the weekend. I also decided to pep up the gear ratio from 3.08 to 3.42. it will hurt fuel mileage slightly but once I ditch the 18" wheels (current tire diameter is 28.5") and go to a 17" setup (which will have a tire diameter of 30") it shouldn't be too bad. so while im waiting for the rear end parts to arrive im going to continue to pick away at the list of little stuff I want to do. *continuing with the long winded post* I took off the old 13" billet steering wheel it came with and bought another 15" comfort grip steering wheel I noticed that the previous owner for some reason ditched the column spring and signal cancel cam/horn conductor. so I sourced both of these little jerks in addition to that he wired the horn to a separate switch under the dash...!??!?!?! so ill wire it back up the column. I also ordered a few firewall boots that were missing and letting TONS of cold air into the cab one for the brake rod and one for the steering column there is also a hole in the dash where the cigarette lighter went and it bothered me so I ordered one of those too... ill *hopefully* get around to changing out the passenger window regulator that gets really difficult halfway down. I already bought the part just need to find the time. I keep putting it off since its not that important... these CPP sway bars came in from summit over the weekend so ill try and get those on too. Ill prob be "sick" on Friday and just take the day to button it up. I may even cruise over to the truck shop and pick up some new cab cushions (the current ones look like they needed replacing in 1993) along with a repop correct style 10" rear view mirror and wiper washer motor. once I get all this stuff sorted out ill start to plan out the next phase... the big question...n/a or boost
