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I have a 2022 trail boss lt that has about 6100 mile on it now. Bought it brand new in may 2022 and it seems like the drivers seat leans to the left towards the door. Almost feels like Im gonna fall out of it and no matter how I adjust it it seems the same. Visually it looks like it sits level and is fine. Is it possible something is broken inside like the frame? I would assume the frame would have to be sturdy. Is there any place that sell a better bottom cushion?

So after some digging I found the build thread section. What we have here is my 2014 Crew Cab Z71 4WD short bed queen. Bought a few years back as my daily work truck to put my weekend warrior back in the garage. When I first snagged her she was lifted on 34s and by the first drive home I knew the tranny was blown. Worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from and had a 100k warranty remain installed where they paid for half of T&M. Factory crap struts with spacers front to rear came on her for a "lift". Within a few months I installed ICON Stage 1 kit to give her that quality ride effect. Love me some ICON, ride was supple on and off the road with this kit. When I decided to let go of the weekend warrior to fund the wife's new ride and changed industry's I got the itch to go back to my roots and slam her. I know I wanted to follow the same concept I did with my last mini must haves. Suspension must haves: Adjustable Coil Overs up front Adjustable emulsions in the rear (I went back and forth for months if this was needed on a full-size before realizing it was a MUST HAVE) Control arms up front due to 4wd and limited spindle offerings Flip in the rear 22x10 that sat flush if not almost flush and this go around the wheel set had to be SQUARE After quite a bit of research I came up with the following mods, mind you not all at once Mod weekend 1: IHC 4/6 drop kit Front and Rear, dialed (according to my comparison from ground-to-fender measure on a 19' Z71) she sits right at 4/6 and within spec on alignment. IHC 4" drop arms (Front) Belltech 2-Way Adjustable Coilovers (Front) IHC Axle Flip kit (Rear) IHC 1" lowering shackle (Rear) IHC drop shocks (Rear) Wheels and Tires 22x10 square ET +0 Cosmis racing XT-206R (finish chips easily but they also clean up easily) Lionhart 285/40/22 (Surprisingly nice ply and quieter than anticipated) After the initial mod weekend truck sat with a Carolina Squat , the rear shocks had no ass in them and my measured adjustment on the coil overs were perfect however I did install per IHC instructions with the 1/2" spacers raising the front 1". Trucks rear was as soft as a yellow belly teenager, I would bottom out axle to frame and pumpkin to bed every where I went. This was not my experience on my first go around on a full-size (96' extended cab bow-tie w/ 2/4). I was able to load that rear end up with dirt bikes and motors all day long without issue, guess there was a leaf design change over a span of 18 years . After a week of banging down the freeway I pulled the trigger on IHC helper bag kit and QA-1 shocks within spec of the drop shocks from IHC (eye-to-eye extended and fully compressed). I made the mistake of purchasing Belltech adjustable drop shocks, these only work for 4" rear drops to my dismay . I also noticed that the drop shackle in the OEM hanger configuration was rubbing at ride height, so purchased the shackle flip kit from IHC as well. Mod weekend 2: IHC Shackle Flip Kit (allows for cleaner travel of suspension, simply shoving lowering shackle onto system was rubbing frame) IHC 1" drop shackles IHC Firestone helper bag kit (Rear) QA1 2-way adjustable emulsion shocks (Rear) Designed and Machined custom bushings to accept the OEM bolts (Inventor and Xometry FTW) Once I installed QA1's, shackle flip, helper bags, and removed and readjusted coil overs I got her squatted on all 4 corners EQUALLY. I rub in front occasionally on full lock to drivers only and over excessive dips in road mostly in front. I have bumped coil over adjustment up 2 clicks from factory on drivers and 1 on passenger. I have compression up 2 clicks from middle and run helper bags with 8-10lbs in them when bed is not loaded up. Rarely do I ever bottom out these days, usually if I have the truck loaded up with people to hit work lunch. Sound System: I upgraded the sound system at some point in time between ICON's and slamming. This has been an ongoing mod debacle on my end. Started by building a steel rack behind passenger seat to mount three Memphis amps. I was using 3 Memphis amps I had from my old truck build, however the front amp decided to start sending unwarranted signals to the speakers and the rear amp after about 3 years of sitting and 6 months of using decided to finally die after an overall 10 year party in 3 different rides. None the less the two AB amps were replaced with new Memphis hardware while the class D (knock on wood) keeps trucking along. Doors received focal 3-Ways up front and 2-ways in the rear. Class D memphis runs a sundown 10 under the passenger ina semi-custom box, added some height to the magnet area to accept the depth of the sundown 10 that runs on 1ohm. Memphis feeds it something like 800 watts rms @ 1ohm. Oldy but faithful Pioneer double din is running the show after trying 2 other setups to use the stock head unit. I initially tried pioneers CAN module but making fine tune adjustments or simply turning off the sub for when the kiddo is in the truck was a painful operation. Switched to an AXXES CAN setup, access to this was great, all the adjustments were perfectly accessible, however my trucks CAN did not like this system, I was getting all sorts of weird can signals and issues throughout the truck that I finally ripped that out and sent it back after trying two different AXXES units. Exterior: 2nd year into ownership finally replaced the factory grill with the OEM paint matched honeycomb and updated the fogs and headlights with RIGIDs and paint matched 14-15 style headlights. Also threw in TRLS HID bulbs while I was at it and TRLS rear assembly's as well. I am an avid mountain biker so finding an easier way to load up the bikes was a must, when the pand hit I pulled the trigger on the RIDE88 truck bed system as they were doing a 25% off on preorders. Best investment for a biker ever, so easy to load and lock the bikes up, only painful when I have to fully utilize the bed. Performance: Stock 5.3, that is mostly clapped out, so I have not gone ham under the hood. Initial purchase was an air raid intake using the stock box as most factory units pull outside air vs "cold air" tech. So installed the AirRaid intake tube that ditches the sound deadening box and did a drop in oil filter. After much debate, about a years worth, I pulled the trigger on the MBRP side exit exhaust. I knew from the day I started the truck with it on that I absolutely HATED it but for some silly reason I left it on. Now I am in search of an OEM exhaust so I can throw this junk away and do an electric dump out later on down the road. Eventually I will be swapping the 5.3 out for a LS1 or LS3 depending on what comes available next fall (waiting for prices to drop) and I will replace or rebuild the trans and will 100% replace the transfercase (culprit to my Chevy shakes when auto mode engaged) but first I need to finish my latest weekend warrior so I have a new daily while this ol'gurl is down. More to come

Hello guys & lady mechanics, I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have??? 1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking. which is my next question, 2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? O’Reilly shows 8 options 3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done… Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. Happy holidays you’ll Dave

Can somebody with a loaded 2022 (or 2021) 2500HD 6.6 Gas LT/LTZ (or similar with the options below) post their payload and GVWR? My wife and I are looking at ordering a loaded 2022 gas 2500HD LT with the Z71 sport package, convenience and safety packages, 5th wheel package, leather bucket seats, sunroof, extra altnernator/battery, etc (pretty much every box checked). The GVWR will be 10,6500#'s, and I'm guessing with it fully loaded it will probably have a payload around 3,100? But I'm curious if anyone already has one or at least very similar what your payload ended up being. Thanks!

Hello All, New to this site, just bought a new 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss a few weeks ago. One of the first things I am doing to this truck is upgrading the few halogen bulbs that GM decided to keep on it. The Rear backup and license plate lights all went super smooth, no issue. But when I went to remove the front blinker bulb from the housing I was faced with a different configuration than what I've seen. The place where you would normally find the circular grip for twisting out the bulb has a small hex head there in place, and it does not look to actually come apart (Please see attached picture). I think that I might have a different blinker than what normally comes with this trim (and I think it may already be LED) but I am unable to find anything online that resembles or mentions this configuration. I am only able to find the typical bulb backing which does not match mine. Does anyone have insight to this or possibly know what kind of blinker I have? I have included a picture of the back of the blinker as well as the light housing itself as I think it too looks slightly different than others I have seen. Thanks in advance!

Was wondering if anyone else is having issues with upgrading their OEM wheels?ive got a 2021 LT 2WD with 20” tires and wheels and wanted to change over to the High Country wheels. keep hearing that they won’t fit? Anyone else aware of this issue? Something to do with the brake calipers or wheel liners???

i own a 2018 e-assist silverado 5.3L. dont have an honest opinion yet of the hybrid feature but love the truck. i have a cat back exhaust with a flowmaster super 10, throttle body spacer and an air/oil seperator. what i want to add is a cold air intake but have been unable to to find one due to truck being an e-assist (mild hybrid). tried a K&N cold air intake but due to the radiator resovoir being in the way, the mandrel will not fit. On the GM PARTS online site, they have a performance intake (Performance Air Intake Upgrade, 5.3L Part Number: 84794977) that says it will fit my Gas/Electric truck. I went to order and later that day i recieved an email from a salesperson who stated that part may not fit and i should do research before buying. i cannot find anything online that says there is a cold air intake that will fit my truck. Has any E-Assist owners come across an air intake that fits or have installed the GM Part 84794977 sucessfully? Thanks

I can’t narrow my search results for this, anyone know if there’s a difference between the single vs dual exit exhaust on the 2019 LT+ trims? I have the single side exhaust with the stock bumper without dual cutouts, I found a good deal on RC dual exhaust kit and thinking I could mod the tips with down tips. thanks for the assist.

Got into my 2014 Silverado to find about a cup of water pooled on the floor mat with some also on the e-break pedal. Couldn't see a source look up behind the dash. Dried it out in the garage overnight and went back this morning to run a hose over it for about 15 minutes. After about fifteen minutes of consistent water over the windshield, windshield seal, door seals, and shark fin - I didn't see any water behind the dash (looked up and through fuse panel). About two hours later I found the water you see in the photos on imagur. In the much more level garage the water seemed to be leaking more to the right of the e-break just below that blue wiring harness. Still didn't see any water looking up in the dash. https://imgur.com/a/zK21HxT any ideas?

Hello, I just recently got some additional lights to put on my offroad bumper, and don't know where exactly to put the switch or how to integrate it into my dash. I just need to be able to add two sitches. I was thinking of trying to put them near the parking brake, or on the instrument panel. The instrument panel already has two spots not being used but they don't press down. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 LT with the 6 speed transmission. The transmission seems very sloppy to me and almost every time I am coming to a stop, the transmission will clunk while shifting down. The truck has around 80,000 miles on it and did have some front end damage to it but i don’t see why that would have anything to do with the transmission. Has anyone experienced this and/or have a fix?

Sorry guys, long post. Haven't been around much lately, with engineering new equipment for mostly garment manufacturers, travelling all over, working 18 hour days. Now I'm retired. Thank God For those that don't know me, you are lucky? I've always modified my cars and trucks. My son and I built many cars and trucks that have been featured vehicles at SEMA. Some sponsored by GM an Avalanche. Some from Ford, An F250 Lifted. Both of those ended up in front pages of magazines. My son decided to get a real job, and I didn't want to continue by myself, the reason I was doing it so my son could learn mechanical electrical stuff. Since he always also modified cars, vans, mini trucks, etc. And wanted to learn from the biggest hacker in the world. This is my current truck and more likely my last, so I'm enjoying to the fullest. Her it goes.. It' a 2017 LT Graphite. Mesh grille black powder coating by Grillcraft 2" front lift to level it. (for those complaining about the pogo stick rear end when going through bumps or whoops, this will fix it.) Homelink from Mito (programable garage door opener) always on.. I hope no one breaks into my truck and gets in the garage and tries to rob old rusted bicyles, dog food, cat food, I forgot my 2002 Corvette Z06 with 30,000 miles. And my Carbonfiber Trek. ls forgot my pitbull that lives in the garage when we are not home. Auto dimming rearview mirror from eBay Auto dimming left side mirror glass with signals, right side mirror glass with signals out of an LTZ from Craigslist and a shifty individual. Left A pillar assist handle from GM 5 2018 Nissan Titan SD Diesel 18" wheels and off road tires from Bulletproof Suspensions in Mentone, CA. 1-1/2" hub centric and wheel centric spacers from Four Wheel Parts in Riverside, CA. Cargo Bed with LED lights GM from eBay Added 6 round eye load tie downs GM from eBay Wired a second 5 lead trailer plug hidden behind rear bumper to install 60" brake, turn signal and reverse lights from eBay. (dont buy them from an auto parts store, I bought mine for $21 on eBay) Black grille bowtie from GM - all other emblems shaved. 2 extra horns same as what the truck came with from eBay. Chevy center caps shaved off in the back and glued them to the old Nissan ones. People ask me if they are from the 2020 HD trucks. LOL I had them before GM I did all the installs, including wiring like GM would put. - All emblem removal by yours truly. 1. In the works... Katskin leather seating. 2. Replace all the POS speakers, one blown already. 3. Wire my Radar Detector Questions? PM Ernie previously lovecars.com now lovecars.co

Hey guys I had a weird thing happen and I want to know if it has hallened to anyone else. I’ve had my 2019 LT trail boss for less than 6 months and this is the second time it happens and I was able to take a picture of it. Last nigh when I opened the truck with the remote and got in I noticed the screen was on and there was a fisheye view on it. After I turned it on it went off and when I put it in reverse the regular camera turned on. I thought it could be the same camera just a different setting but from the picture you can see the fisheye is left of the regular camera and the angle is different.I thought that bubble next to the regular camera was just an led light and I don’t see the camera in there. Has this happened to anyone else? Is there a way to activate the fisheye camera? Whats the purpose of that camera? I cant seem to find anything about it online.

What do you guys think? It's not as loud as a full aftermarket exhaust would be but I think it sounds pretty good for the money I paid.

I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not?

Theft deterrant light comes on, airbag light comes on, and speed odometer going crazy. All of my gauges basically go crazy on my cluster after 2 minutes of driving. I want to say its the body control module but I also think its the HMI. I need help with this issue. Do i order a new BCM and have it snet in to get programmed to my VIN or take it to the dealer and

This has been an on-going research project of mine. I discovered when I inquired about having the Trail Boss (TB) factory lift kit (GM part# 84629787) added to my 2019 LT Z71, that I could not have the kit installed due to the secondary composite leaf springs on my truck. Upon further investigation, I found that ONLY the LT with 5.3L (and LT with 3.0 diesel and short box) had the composite leaf springs preventing the truck from having a TB lift added. On the GMC side, I found out the Sierra Denali also uses the same leaf springs with composite secondary as the LT 5.3L. My first impression was, “why the heck would GM do this?” Why wouldn’t the LTZ or High Country (HC) have the the composite leaf? Why would only the mid-level LT have it? The Sierra Denali has it and it’s a $60K+ truck. My LT averages around $45K. I might be a little upset as a LTZ or HC owner to find out my rear suspension is the same as on any Custom trim truck, or even, the base W/T model. I’ve doing a lot of reading on composite leaf springs and there are more advantages to them than disadvantages. Though they are dimensionally bigger (thicker) than the steel counterpart, they weight a lot less, last longer, and offer better damping properties than steel. GM has had a good track record using composite leaf springs. The same technology has been used on the corvette since 1997 with the introduction of the C5. Disadvantages are minimal, such as, they are more expensive to produce, can burn up in a fire, and in this case, can’t be further bent or altered out of original specification. This must be the reason GM won’t allow the lift to be added to vehicles with a composite leaf. I’m sure the leaf could take the additional stress, GM engineers just want to play it safer than sorry. So with this, the Silverado LT 5.3L (and LT 3.0 diesel with short bed) and the Sierra Denali are the only trucks to use the composite leaf. Though I’m disappointed I won’t be able to get the TB lift added, I’m now pretty stoked to find out my LT has more mechanical innovation put into the suspension and I didn’t have to spend $15K+ more for a Sierra Denali to get it. However with this, it seems that if someone is looking for a top-end truck, the Denali would be the better choice over the HC which lacks the particular composite leaf spring feature, if that mattered to the buyer. For reference, attached here are the GM compatibility charts for the Silverado and Sierra to see if you can add the TB lift kit. Also here is a link to the previous discussion about the TB lift kit where you can find more detail about installation and issues surrounding the composite leaf springs.

Hello, does anyone have any info on which package truck I have? I know there is a Custom Sport edition but I think that is only for crew cabs it also is a different shade of white than what I have. There also is a Midnight edition for the all balck Silverados... I am just curious as to what my package is called because where I am located I havent seen a truck like mine since I have owned it the past 6 months or so. Thank you in advance!

Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher - GM-Trucks.com May 24th, 2019 A few days after we got a look at the changes for the 2020 Sierra, Chevrolet is letting on to what's going to change for the 2020 Silverado. Surprise, it's actually some significant stuff. More 6.2L First up, the 6.2L makes its long awaited move to trim levels below LTZ. Now Custom Trail Boss, RST, and LT Trail Boss trim levels can also order the 420 horsepower engine option. As owners of a 2019 LTZ with the 6.2L , we highly recommend it. More 10-speed LT Trail Boss and High Country with the 5.3L engine will upgrade to the all new 10-speed transmission. This move was more expected as GM flushes out the 10-speed into more models and slowly phases out the 8-speed and 6-speed transmissions its sold for years. A New 3.0L Diesel The new light duty Duramax makes it's debut in 2020. It will be available on LT, RST, and above trim levels. This engine will also come with the new 10-speed transmission. Smaller changes Other additions to the lineup for 2020 include adaptive cruise control and a new "transparent trailer" camera system that displays up to 15 different views. Order Guide Deletions (GE0) Oakwood Metallic (PDT) High Country Premium Package (R13) WT Appearance Package New Features (DPO) and (DQS) Vertical Trailering Mirrors (KSG) Adaptive Cruise Control now included in (PDJ) Safety Package II Changes (MQB) 10-speed transmission is now standard on 4WD High Country models with (L84) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8 DFM engine and LT Trail Boss (UV2) HD Surround Vision is replaced with (UVS) HD Surround Vision with Two Trailer Camera Provisions (CWM) Technology Package now includes (UVN) Bed View Camera (PCV) WT Convenience Package is now available with (ZW9) pickup bed delete (PTT) Tire Pressure Monitor System becomes (PTT) Tire Pressure Monitor Sensors (V46) and (VJH) Chrome bumpers are now free flow on 1WT (Q5U) 17" Bight silver painted aluminum wheels are now free flow on 1WT 2020 Chevrolet Silverado Photos

Hello, I purchased my truck a few months ago and most of the time i need to press the button 2-5 times to drop my tailgate without any help. With a little (and i mean 5 lbs) of pulling while pressing the button it works most of the time, even then i might have to press it twice. The truck is a new body 2019 Silverado LT 4x4. It started doing this day one, i thought it might just need to work in/break in and it did not. Is anyone else having this issue? If so do you know how to fix it? I have tried with the vehicle on level ground and even then it does not work all the time also i tried it on grounds where the front is up a few inches and i would still have to press at least twice. Every 50 times or so it will go down with one press. Any help will be appreciated.

So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter