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Hello, I purchased my truck a few months ago and most of the time i need to press the button 2-5 times to drop my tailgate without any help. With a little (and i mean 5 lbs) of pulling while pressing the button it works most of the time, even then i might have to press it twice. The truck is a new body 2019 Silverado LT 4x4. It started doing this day one, i thought it might just need to work in/break in and it did not. Is anyone else having this issue? If so do you know how to fix it? I have tried with the vehicle on level ground and even then it does not work all the time also i tried it on grounds where the front is up a few inches and i would still have to press at least twice. Every 50 times or so it will go down with one press. Any help will be appreciated.

Hello, does anyone have any info on which package truck I have? I know there is a Custom Sport edition but I think that is only for crew cabs it also is a different shade of white than what I have. There also is a Midnight edition for the all balck Silverados... I am just curious as to what my package is called because where I am located I havent seen a truck like mine since I have owned it the past 6 months or so. Thank you in advance!

So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter

Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher - GM-Trucks.com May 24th, 2019 A few days after we got a look at the changes for the 2020 Sierra, Chevrolet is letting on to what's going to change for the 2020 Silverado. Surprise, it's actually some significant stuff. More 6.2L First up, the 6.2L makes its long awaited move to trim levels below LTZ. Now Custom Trail Boss, RST, and LT Trail Boss trim levels can also order the 420 horsepower engine option. As owners of a 2019 LTZ with the 6.2L , we highly recommend it. More 10-speed LT Trail Boss and High Country with the 5.3L engine will upgrade to the all new 10-speed transmission. This move was more expected as GM flushes out the 10-speed into more models and slowly phases out the 8-speed and 6-speed transmissions its sold for years. A New 3.0L Diesel The new light duty Duramax makes it's debut in 2020. It will be available on LT, RST, and above trim levels. This engine will also come with the new 10-speed transmission. Smaller changes Other additions to the lineup for 2020 include adaptive cruise control and a new "transparent trailer" camera system that displays up to 15 different views. Order Guide Deletions (GE0) Oakwood Metallic (PDT) High Country Premium Package (R13) WT Appearance Package New Features (DPO) and (DQS) Vertical Trailering Mirrors (KSG) Adaptive Cruise Control now included in (PDJ) Safety Package II Changes (MQB) 10-speed transmission is now standard on 4WD High Country models with (L84) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8 DFM engine and LT Trail Boss (UV2) HD Surround Vision is replaced with (UVS) HD Surround Vision with Two Trailer Camera Provisions (CWM) Technology Package now includes (UVN) Bed View Camera (PCV) WT Convenience Package is now available with (ZW9) pickup bed delete (PTT) Tire Pressure Monitor System becomes (PTT) Tire Pressure Monitor Sensors (V46) and (VJH) Chrome bumpers are now free flow on 1WT (Q5U) 17" Bight silver painted aluminum wheels are now free flow on 1WT 2020 Chevrolet Silverado Photos

I have some items/ parts I no longer require or desire. Would love to get them out of my garage. Everything is off a 2016 Silverado 1500 Z71 LT Crew Cab Short Bed. - Bed caps - Headlights (no harness) Continued:

Looking for some help. I have a 2019 Crew Cab LT Trail Boss with 4,600 mi, 5.3 engine. Blew an oil cooler line a few weeks ago, drove 200ft with the blown line and shut the truck off. After telling the dealer and tow company not to start it the first thing I hear from the dealer is that the truck was stalling out as they drove it into the shop/moved it and that a nice feature on these new trucks is that the engines don't blow with low oil, they just stall out. Next day the dealer tells me that it's a blown engine. I've been telling the dealer for a week now that I want a new truck. What's a reasonable course of action for the dealer here? What should I expect as a solution or should I ask for as a solution? They're currently tearing apart the engine so GM can evaluate what exactly is wrong and do a cost analysis.

So I've been looking for solid information on how much pressure to put in tires, when moving away from stock tire size or type ("P" vs LT, different load range, etc). I never found anything to-the-point, except I remember someone talking about using GVWR and max tire load to calculate pressure. And I can't even find that post anymore. Anyhow, I decided to make this from scratch: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17gh6VmylZWld50XcLvPbQVRRQoRFUZNiqndHQ7jzTb8/edit?usp=sharing It doesn't mean that it's exactly the tire pressure you should use, but I guess it's a good start. I hope it might be useful. Cheers!

So I've been looking for solid information on how much pressure to put in tires, when moving away from stock tire size or type ("P" vs LT, different load range, etc). I never found anything to-the-point, except I remember someone talking about using GVWR and max tire load to calculate pressure. And I can't even find that post anymore. Anyhow, I decided to make this from scratch: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17gh6VmylZWld50XcLvPbQVRRQoRFUZNiqndHQ7jzTb8/edit?usp=sharing It doesn't mean that it's exactly the tire pressure you should use, but I guess it's a good start. I hope it might be useful. Cheers!

I am wanting to add a Z71 Badge to the grill of my 2018 LT. Does anyone know where I can get the 2-piece black plastic mounting plate that is behind the badge on the factory installed Z71 logo. I believe they call it the Front Plinth/Rear Plinth. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hey Guys, I’ve noticed that a friend of mine has the blue LED lights all over his dashboard, he says it came like that since he purchased it. He drives a 2016 Chevy Silverado & mine is 2017 but I don’t seem to have this option. Both our cars are LT 1500. Any tips or guides on how to activate it (if possible). Thanks ??

I am looking at the Readylift 66-3086 2.25" FRONT LEVELING KIT W/ CONTROL ARMS - GM 1500 TRUCK / SUV 6-LUG 2017-2018 https://www.readylift.com/2-25-front-leveling-kit-w-control-arms-gm-1500-truck-suv-6-lug-2017-2018.html For my 2017 Silverado 1500 LT with factory 17 inch aluminum wheels and 255/70R17 tires. After talking to the company, they said that I may need a 1/2 inch wheel spacer for the front so the control arms don't rub on the wheels. Is this true or is this something to try and get me to buy? The main reason I am looking at replacing the upper control arms is because I have an aftermarket heavy duty bumper with grill guard and it weighs around 200Lbs. That worries me with the factory STAMPED control arms it has now. If I need spacers, what spacer is best and cheap? Would I have to modify the studs? What else would I have to do so it doesn't rub? Thanks!

2011 Chevrolet Silverado LT Extended Cab 4WD Long Bed Four Wheel Drive 120K miles Tonneau cover with new lift struts LED bed lights Running boards installed 12/2017 6 seats (front center console folds down into a seat) Clean title. THIS TRUCK IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION! Interior is perfect Exterior is perfect Runs like new! No warning lights 6-speed transmission with tow/haul mode and manual gear select Towing package with integrated trailer brake controller Michelin tires, excellent condition all around. Dash mat Chevrolet Stereo Bluetooth w/ CD player and USB and auxiliary inputs OnStar I have had this truck since 2014. Some preventative maintenance items since then: New battery last year (Duralast Gold) Always used synthetic oil every 3K to 4K miles Rear differential fluid was flushed at 97K miles Upgraded cooling, including a thicker radiator, extra transmission cooler and extra engine oil cooler. Upgraded rear air shocks (Monroe Max-Air)

Hello, I’m new to this forum so I’m not sure if this question has ever been posted? I have been looking all over the internet but just can’t seem to find an answer? I have a 2018 Silverado 1500 Custom And I was wondering if it’s possible to swap my grille to a Z71 grille? I’m not sure if the Z71 grille is a different shape then my front end? I’m not a big fan of the black honeycomb look being that I’m going for a more sleek all white look. (Need to paint doors and mirror caps) If I can’t swap grills does anyone know where I can buy the grille insterts from a z71 grille? first 2 pictures are of my truck and second is a picture of the Z71 grille I want.

Looking for opinions on spray in bedliner's Rhino line VS vortex liners The rhinoline will cost me about 525 vortex around 600. What's the differences? What's better or worse? Thanks for opinions

I just bought my first newish truck, being the 2014 Silverado 2wd z71 lt. It’s got the crew cab with 5.3l under the hood. I’m currently stationed at ft Stewart ga. Im just looking for some help or some advice on some upgrades I’d like to do to this truck and which products might be the best. - I’d like to change the headlights and fog lights from stock. - Put a leveling kit and some new (bigger) a/t tires on it and not sure what size being 2wd. - Change to an aftermarket air intake. - Do something about the shitty stock speakers (without Bose). Wether it be new door speakers and sub(s). Or be just subs and have a separate amp just for door speakers. Do I need a processor to hook up to stock 8” head unit. - How do I add any app or navigation to this stock 8” head unit - Exhaust? - How to get more performance from the truck. Anything would help, Thanks

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 LT Z71. On the factory grill, there are three gloss black "grill bars" that appear to be separate pieces from the flat black grill inserts. On the 2017 LTZ Z71, these three bars are chrome plated. I think that is a nice way to add just enough chrome to the grill to really make it pop, so to speak. Since I have not had the gril off of the truck, I am not sure how the gloss black grill bars are fastened on. Is there a way to remove them and replace them with the chrome versions? And if so, how would I obtain the chrome replacements without buying a complete LTZ Z71 grill from GM? Just for reference, here is a picture of my grill: And here is a picture of a LTZ Z71 grill. This is the look I am trying to achieve: I would really appreciate any input. Thanks

I have a 2016 Silverado LT2 and do have the new style projector bulbs and LED running light strips in the reworked front end vs the 2015 style... but I like LED lights more than bulbs. Anyone have the smarts to have looked into it to know if the LTZ lights would plug and play into an LT? The LTZ has LED front signal lights and tail lights where the LT has bulbs. Not saying I will do it, but it would be nice to know if it's possible so my truck would have the same look as an LTZ. Thanks

What up fella's. I've been back and forth the past few months with my dealership in regards to the severe vibration I'm having on my 2017 Silverado Z71 Crew cab. The vibration occurs between 74-84 mph. It rides worse than the 2011 I traded for it. I feel it in the steering wheel, the gas petal, seats and center console. My main concern is it vibrates the hell out of my daughter in her car seat, which tears me up inside. There is no way we can take her for long drives in it as it makes her physical irritable and sick. Here's a video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7giDNI70pTk&feature=youtu.be Last time I took it to the dealership, they rode forced the tires and did a "pico reading" and dealership stated "it is operating within the specified range" and there was nothing they could do for me. Funny thing is I actually rode with the Service Manager and Tech while doing this test and both of them said they felt the vibration/shaking but it rides better than other trucks. Such horse shit.. This is one of many issues I've had with it since I bought it; FE: replace full exhaust system due to bad flapper, removed "rail dust" in paint, replace mass airflow sensor within first week of purchase, replaced "gateway module" which took 30+ days in the shop. I purchased the truck last November and am honestly depressed I'm even having this issue to which no dealership can/wants to fix. Ive requested specifically requested to speak with a GM rep last time I was there which the service manager said ''I unfortunately don't know that info". You guys are my last resort, so I'm looking to see how I get in touch with the GM Rep to see what options I have before I get with a lawyer. Any help you guys can provide is greatly appreciated.

Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)

All installed the Stampede Original Riderz texture 8626-5 fender flares. Instructions not the best, no videos from manufacturer. However, I am very pleased with the fit and finish. The truck looks great and im sold. I will be contacting their customer service to give them feedback. My next search is for Mud flaps to go with the flares. I hoping I can use the Husky flaps. Attached before and after pics G

I saw an advertisement for a 2017 Silverado LT Double Cab 4x4 for $229/month for 36 month, 10,000 miles per year, $2,000 due at signing. I wanted a higher milage lease so i called around and was quoted $270/month for 36 month, 12,000 miles per year, $2,000 due at signing. They said that after the month of August the incentives will change and those offers will expire. Does $270 sound like a good deal? Also, would you expect the deals to get better or worse as the year comes to an end. I'd assume better as they try to push the 2017 models off the lots for the 2018s.

I've recently put 305/55r20 bfg ko2 tires on my 2014 silverado double cab 1500 with a 2" front level . I messaged BFG twice and got two VERY different answers when asking the exact same question and telling them my oem tire size/recommended pressure. One rep told me 50 psi and another told me 35 psi. The fact that I got two drastically different responses when giving the exact same question:supporting information, doesn't exactly make me want to trust their answers. I would think most 305/55/20 LT E load tires would have similar (probably not identical, but close enough to get a good ballpark number) load/per psi. I'm wanting to know what others have their 305/55r20 LT E load tires at to experience even/longer term wear. I've currently got mine at about 42 cold, and they seem to go to about 46 warm. It looks like the outside may be wearing a bit prematurely. But the BFG KO2 design may just be weird in that the outside of the tire's "base" of the tread seems to raise up. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Hi guys, prob a longshot but if anyone is interested in the OEM Z71 wheel/tire setup I have a full set that Id like to part with. If you want just the wheels or just the tires let me know. Tires are Goodyear SR-A 265/65R18 Ive had them for a year and 6 months and they saw 20k pavement miles. I didnt so any offroading or anything else rigorous. At most saw a couple of gravel driveways. The wheels and tires both are taken care of, do not have any rash. It was freezing cold the day i took the pics when they were taken off but if bought i will clean them up before coming to you. No tpms or valves, but do have the lugs. Full album of pics here: https://imgur.com/a/6yeCp Meetup will probably be out of the question as I have rarely seen anyone on the forum in MT. Willing to ship but we both know it will be hefty, price wise. Thanks