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  1. Hey all, I drive a 97 k2500 p/u w/ 5.7L. I'm trying to diagnose all the problems listed above, but don't have a lot of experience (or money for that matter). As far as the no start problem, it will sit and crank forever, but the only way I can get it to start is by applying the gas pedal and even then it still struggles. In addition to all that, it struggles and stutters and just generally has no balls. I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator so I got a fuel pressure gauge and attached it to the schrader valve. When I turned it to accessory and let the fuel pump run, it shot up to 60 psi and then down to between 15 and 20 psi after a couple of seconds. When cranking it, it's at 60 psi as well. Does anybody have any advice or idea what it could be or where I should look next? I'm kind of new to troubleshooting vehicles so any help would be great.
  2. i have a 2003 chevy silverado with a 5.3 in it i have just rebuilt the engine it started up and ran fine for about 2 minutes then the rpm started to drop and the truck died and wont start back anyone have any ideas i know the spark plugs are fireing and the motor has no codes in it any help will be greatly appreciated
  3. Sorry if something similar has already been posted but I haven't found a solution that works. My 2004 Silverado 1500 LS, 5.3L Vortec is giving me all kinds of fits. Would be happy to elaborate the long story but going for the short to start with. I have been having problems with hitting the key and nothing but a dash reset; this has been intermittent since the first of the year and usually would clear itself up. When this happens I get all kinds of weird lights and messages but no codes. It would usually clear itself up within a couple of days then I could drive for a few weeks with no problems. I did notice that sometimes when it happened the blower was left on when trying to start it but didn't seem to be tied to weather. The two worst instances, one a snow storm and the other 80+ degrees. Two weeks ago I forgot to turn the air off and when I started the truck to go home the check engine light was on, the ABS light was on and the brake light was on; I also noticed that the air was still on but the blower wasn't working. The truck would barely move itself. I turned everything off and started it again but had the same symptoms. It barely limped home and started the no attempt to start problem again. I read the codes and had 740, 753, 758, 785 and 2761. Did some research and found that if you get all these codes the most common fix was the ignition switch and this was confirmed by a mechanic after he looked it up in his resources. Logically everything made since that the problem was most likely the ignition switch, it wasn't unless O'Reilly's sold me a bad switch. Here are some things I have tried: The battery is a year old and has been checked but I think there still may be a problem with it. I had to do a relearn on the security because I replaced the PCM so I hooked a charger up as suggested. After the relearn the key would bump the motor but that was it. I found if I held the key it would bump, wait a few seconds then bump again and repeat the cycle. I left the charger on and over time the cycle would shorten. Finally I went out and the engine turned over like normal, started and the charger indicated the battery had a full charge. I checked all the fuses and relays I replaced the starter a couple of months ago thinking it might of had a dead spot, it failed with the new starter the same day I replaced it. I had the bright idea of running a wire from the S post of the starter to the top of the motor to attach a remote switch. When the no attempt to start problem occurred I used a remote switch and it would start and immediately shut off (theft deterrent I suppose) but if I used the remote switch and key switch at the same time it would start but the truck would not move so I expect the transmission was not being energized. I replaced the ignition switch, I assume I have it in correctly because the switch seems to work. I did try moving the gear a notch or two both directions and got less than desirable results. I replaced the PCM last night and did the security relearn; I get the same results with the new PCM as I do the old. I have swapped them out a couple of times today with no difference and now they both show the same transmission codes. Right now the truck will start with just the key but will not move. The check engine light is on with the codes being the transmission codes listed above. The ABS light is on and the Brake light is on (the parking brake is not set) and the heat/air blower does not work. Is there another ?CM module that could be causing these problems? Aren't you glad I didn't go into the long story? Thanks Chris
  4. I have a 1991 C1500 5.7L that wont start. The truck had not been used for several years. I was able to get it started and it ran fine a couple times. Then the next weekend I went to start it and it would not start. It was backfiring some, so we chacked the ignition and found some corrosion in the distributer cap and wires. I replaced the cap, rotor wires and plugs. It seemed to solve the backfire but still no start. It has good spark which jumps across an HEI psark tester. The timing is good. It has a good flow of fuel from the injectors, but it just cranks and does not seem to even try and start, unless you floor the accelerator and put it in flood mode, it seems to kick over a little but no start. So far the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ignition module, MAP sensor and coil have been replaced. The temperature sensor, TPS and oxygen sensor test good (reads correct value using WINALDL). Even though it has good spark and fuel it doesn't start. Suspecting fuel being too rich wedisconnected the injectors and tried some starting fluid and it does not start with it either. We are out of ideas right now. Any suggestions?
  5. Blazer cranks no start. Sometimes When I release the key it diesels once or twice. Srs light on abs intermittently. P204 o2 sensor post cat replaced. New fuel pump, new battery, new spider, new lower intake gaskets, new thermostat, new water pump. Dist cap had white corrosion cleaned reinstalled. I give up. Anyone have specific fix to solve my problem!?
  6. So 2nd day having this truck and go to start it and nothing but click click, battery is full 14 volts but still try and boost it and still just clicks. Any ideas what's going on?
  7. After changing the intake gaskets wont re-fire..RE-checked base timing.. fuel pressure 68psi Has enough spark to make you take a piss running for the john pops thru intake while cranking Why is there 2 timing marks on crank damper ? rotor is pointed at the marker in dist housing ANY ONE GOT ANY STRONG IDEAS..
  8. I recently replaced a fuel pump on my Yukon XL 2001. For the benefits of other Yukon owners that may be having the same problem, I published the process in my blog: http://simonraban.blogspot.com/2014/05/replacing-gmc-yukon-xl-2001-fuel-pump.html Your comments and feedback are welcome.
  9. Saturday 1/25/2014 visit dealership with my wife and she picks out a Victory Red 2014 Silverado DBL cab. She's not a big fan of the buying/negotiate side so I tell salesman I will be back down Monday morning to purchase. We are both very excited knowing we will be adding a new truck to the stable on Monday. Felt that negotiations/deal went fairly well as I was trading two vehicles for the truck. 2013 Chevy Camaro that had just under 8K on it for miles and was under cover in my garage (never been in rain let alone salt) Purchased it on July 2, 2012. This vehicle was taken straight from my house and put on show room floor it looked that good. 2012 Chevy Sonic that had 16K on it when traded and was in mint condition also. This vehicle was sold by the dealership on Wed. 1/29/2014. Finished up all the paper work at about 2:00 p.m. Monday but truck was not done in the prep area yet so salesman suggested they would drop off our new truck Monday evening and also pick up both our trades. While I was at work Monday evening at 6:30 p.m. they bring truck to our house to meet with my wife and take the trades. They inform my wife that they scratched it during washing and put a 3" deep jagged scratch in middle of door all the to the bare metal.
  10. Hello, I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado 2500hd. Recently, I've been having a problem intermittently with getting it started (no start no crank). It has happened 3 times, and each time I have had to call AAA. I'm hoping maybe someone out there knows how to fix this. Any advice would be great... The first time it ever happened, you turned the key and nothing would happen. No crank. It had full electrical power, but I thought I'd jump it anyway. The jump pack had absolutely no effect. Then I thought maybe it was the anti theft. So I locked and unlocked the doors 3 times with the fob. Nothing. Next I thought maybe either the sensor in the gearshift or in the brake pedal. Played with both to no avail. Then I thought maybe it was a contact in the starter. So I had someone tap the starter while I tried the key. Nothing. Finally I ended up having it towed to the Chevy dealer I bought it from. First they said they believed it was a communication problem with the computers, but wasn't exactly sure what was wrong. Later in the day they called and said the fuse box was the culprit, and I needed a new one. I had them put it in, and everything seemed ok. About a week and a half later, stopped at the store. Went to start the truck to go home, nothing. No crank. Had it towed to my Chevy dealer. They looked at it and said my ignition switch was bad, and replaced it. Everything again seemed fine. About two weeks later, I went to leave work, turned the key, and once again nothing. I was determined to figure it out this time. So, I played with the gearshift and brake pedal, nothing. I went to the fuse box and pulled each fuse and relay, checked for debris and put them back in. Nothing. So I pulled the fuse box out, cleaned the connectors with contact cleaner, made sure everything was nice and shiny, and popped the fuse box back in. Nothing. Then I thought that maybe if there was a problem with the computers, they needed reset. So I disconnected the battery for two minutes, and then hooked it back up. Nothing. You can hear the relays clicking softly, but it just isn't activating the starter. I tried shaking some wires to try to find bad connections, even tried pushing it a little in neutral. Nothing. When the AAA driver got there, he took a look. He yanked on the wires coming from the battery going towards the starter, and I was able to start the truck right up. I drove it to the dealer anyway, cause I thought maybe the wire needed replaced or tightened. They told me that the wire was fine. They checked the starter and said it was ok. And they said they really didn't know what the problem was. They checked everything they possibly could think of. They said to bring it back again when it won't start and maybe they can find the problem. Does anyone have any idea what this is? If it helps, usually when this happens, the first time you try to start it, it will start for like a split second and stall out. From there on it just makes a soft clicking at the relays and won't crank. I usually do not do a lot of repairs to my truck myself. I like to have the Chevy dealer do it for a few reasons. It's my only car and I can't chance screwing something up and not being able to get to work. And, if something simple ever ended up being a major problem, they could probably handle it way better than I can. They're trained, I'm not. But at this point if anyone has any ideas I'd be willing to try/check them. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jay
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