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Showing results for tags 'power'.
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Brand new, has less than 700 miles ad I started noticing oil pooling on the ground. Though it may be a loose oil filter but when I got underneath I noticed drips of oil coming from the front, driver side where the cantilevering arm connects. You can see in the attached image a small oil drop getting ready to drip. Anyone experience this? Simple fix? Is the whole part of that assembly faulty? -
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I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right place and I can move it if someone wants me to. Today I drove into work and everything was fine but when I left I noticed my radio took a second to come on. Then I found out my windows won't roll down and when I press the button to roll it down the radio turns off. I opened the interior fuse panel and tried to figure out the problem but couldn't I did find out though my windshield wipers aren't working either. Also there's this blue wire that's not connected to anything but I can't find out what it is or what it goes to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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These DL3 mirrors and harnesses were just removed from my 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ when I upgraded to towing mirrors. Mirrors and harnesses in like new condition (truck only had 2200 miles). Power fold, heated glass, turn signal, puddle lights, driver side spot and driver auto dim. Asking $550 shipped from zip 31211 to the lower 48. GM Part Numbers: LH Mirror: 23180074 RH Mirror: 23499472 LH Harness: 23171577 RH Harness: 23171579 -
Hopefully someone on here can help me out. I've tried just about everywhere else and nobody else seems to have this problem. My 2000 Suburban is having problems with it's power door locks. Only the driver's side works. I originally thought it was the actuators, but I replaced the passenger side one and the problem hasn't changed at all. Then I replaced the driver's door control switch, but that didn't help either, although it did fix another one of my problems. It seems like the actuators aren't getting enough power and some only seem to be getting power one way (unlock only), while others make noise both ways. Is there a good way to test the other actuators with a multimeter? I'd replace them all but none seem to come with the extra sensor or whatever it is and I also don't think that's the problem. Thanks for any help. -
I have a stock 2008 Silveardo Crew cab LT, with a 5.3l motor. Truck is currently getting a used motor installed in it due to knocking, oil pressure, and oil lose (fun right). Well once I get a new motor (used) with 50k miles on it I was planning on dropping like 3k of parts into it to make it faster. My only concern is my transmission, will it hold up? Upgrades: Cams Headers Intake Injectors exhaust Tune All on a stock tranny, is this possible or will this be a quick way to find my truck in the shop?
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I have a 98 Silverado z71 with 5.7 350. The check engine light came on giving p0405 code. (low egr voltage). I have replaced the egr and nothing changed. I tested the wiring with the egr unplugged and it tests fine, but if I plug the egr in I lose the 12 volts. If I unplug it I have 12 volt. Now that's with my ohm meter. If I put a load on it, ie hook a headlight to it, it wont power it. I have traced all of the wires back to the ecm. They all are fine. I even unplugged the wiring from ecm and put 12volts from the battery thru the 12volt wire going to the egr and the wire is fine. A friend who is a mechanic by trade said it could be the ecm. I replaced the ecm today.(not a brand new one. one from a used parts/salvage yard). I got the truck to run and the check engine light came on within a few minutes. Same as before, with the ohm meter I have 12 volts going to the egr with the plug unplugged, as soon as I plug it in it goes to 0.03 volts. I even bought another egr thinking it could possible be a bad/shorted one. I'm at a total loss. any help would be great. Thank you!! -
hello everyone I have a 97 GMC Sierra with a 305 and electronic shift trans it has a lot of issues that I'm trying to sort out first of all on cold start it idles super low (200- 400 rpms) for a few seconds and then picks up and shudders and shakes for a minuet then goes to normal idle once it warms up it stars to drop to low rpms (any where between 100 to 400) and dies out when I rev it it revs super slow and hesitates when I go to drive it it falls on its face on take off it kinda cuts out at first but slowly and I mean slowly picks up speed all the while it back fires and slightly lunges now once I get moving the trans doesnt want to shift until I let off the gas no matter the throttle position and the speedometer jumps around like crazy and never shows my correct speed the brake and ABS light are on sometimes they go off but normally on look at the videos to see how bad it is any help would be great so far I have replaced the plugs and wires cleaned the cap replaced the button and the TPS cleaned the MAF sensor and cleaned the trans speed sensor videos: -
Hi guys! I have a 2006 Sierra Denali, and I'm just curious if theres any way to get a more substantial gain in power than just the 20hp or so from adding aftermarket air intakes/exhausts? obviously there's turbo and supercharging but is there anything in between? just something around a 40-70hp gain thats not over the top like a form of forced induction would be. It has the 6.0l Vortec and i believe 3.73 gears if that affects anything.
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Hi, Richard from Pleasant Lake, Michigan. I have a 2004 Chevy 2500HD with the 8.1L Gas, with 44796 mileage, but 7400 hours on the engine. I bought this used from a dealership over a year ago and am now having issues with the truck. I have been having problems with the Yellow Engine symbol showing up and Reduced Power showing in the DIC window. Plus I am hearing what sounds like predetonation/ rattling from the engine when I give it gas. The engine runs ok, but there is more to the noise than a smooth running engine, kinda like a rumbling. Can anyone help me figure out what is causing this? I have had this happen three times so far, once during the summer of 2013, once last December and yesterday 1/19/2015. When it occurred back at the end of December I pulled three codes from my truck. P0220 P0134 P0300. When it occurred last summer, I changed all the plugs and wires to AC-Delco. I found out that if I start, run for a minute and shut down several times, the error goes away and I'm ok. I just need to get this resolved, because I use this to pull out travel trailer. I have run a couple of tanks of premium thru it and added cleaner to the fuel previously. Thanks, Richard 2004 2500HD, 8.1L Gas
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Hello, I'm installing tow mirrors with the led turn signals on my 92 silverado. I need to find a good ground location. I know bare metal is good for ground but j csnt seem to find any. Any locations under the dash, door panels, hood will work. Thank you for the help -
Hey guys! Can someone post a wiring diagram of the rear power windows on a 2003 Trailblazer? Both my rear windows stopped working suddenly from any switch. Both front windows operate normally. The rear windows don't even click when switch is pressed on their respective doors or on the driver's controls. My understanding is the BCM controls the rear door windows. I would like to see if there is any common wiring points to both doors that may cause this failure. All fuses have been check and power locks still work find on all doors. Thanks! -
Hello, I have a set of towing mirrors I removed from my 2015 Chevrolet 3500 LTZ. I took them off my truck yesterday and have no use for them. If you have a new body style truck and are looking for a set of towing mirrors, let me know. They came off the truck with just 1,102 miles. I have pics. They were too large to upload, and I do not know how to change that. I can email or text pics if you would like. They are power, heated, manual extending and manual folding. LED turn signal in glass. Two pieces of glass, one flat and one convex. They are both in perfect condition. Asking $375 or best offer. Paypal, cash, check or credit card. Feel free to call or text me at 315-427-5811
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I've replaced my OEM side mirrors with tow mirrors and after years of storage have decided that they're taking up too much space in my garage. If you have use for them let me know I'll sell them to ya. Not looking to make money, just free up space. Came off a 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Z71. They're power mirrors only. No signals on them and aren't heated.
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Hey everyone, I am having issues with my 92 c1500 5.7l. I made this account because I desperately need help from people who know more about these things than I do. So let's start. The first thing you need to know is that I have a weird truck. Someone who had it before me said they had the CTS (cooling temperature sensor) go bad, and the temperature gauge doesn't work. Their fix for it? They hooked a manual toggle switch up to the ECU so that they can flip the switch on when the engine is cold, dumping more fuel, and flip the switch off when the engine warms up, giving it a leaner air/fuel mixture. I believe the issues I have may have something to do with this. Where the problems start: The truck will idle fine if it is COLD with the toggle switch on, and will idle fine when the engine is at normal temp with the switch off. If it's cool but not cold, it will idle rough (rpms almost die and the jump back up to 1500 then down again) with the switch off, and die with the switch on. I figure this is simply because this switch doesn't give it a healthy air/fuel mixture because it's not adjusted gradually by the computer; instead it's simply rich (on) or lean (off). Next, when I back out of the driveway, it does fine (I slightly ride the clutch out and back out) Then I go to first gear, and let off the clutch slowly, and give it a tiny bit of gas, just like any other manual tranny. Now, if I have a perfect or near perfect launch, no problems occur. But, if I am in a rush, or simply not paying enough attention (I'm rather inexperienced) the truck will buck. Normal right? Well this thing doesn't buck once or twice.. As I continue to accelerate through first, it will buck HARD. enough to make the front end dip like 6 inches repeatedly. If I don't let off the gas, I slow down and it continues to buck even when I'm not on the throttle. If I do let off the gas, it will either clear out and stop, or will keep going. If I turn it off and crank it over again and roll into first, the problem totally clears out. Assuming we have the bucking problem out of the way, I will accelerate up through first. Sometimes this is smooth, sometimes there are dead spots, and sometimes there are lots of dead spots. I shift into second. Sometimes the shift is smooth, sometimes it kind of jerks forward, and sometimes it jerks HARD. I accelerate through second, and this is where the worst dead spots are as far as acceleration. It doesn't act like the gears are slipping or something, but rather like it is having trouble firing properly and is losing power. Once I accelerate past 2.5k or 3k, it runs like a dream. Shift into 3rd, and all problems stop almost 100% of the time. Very rarely it will jerk into third or fourth, but usually these shifts are clean. I figure this is because by now the wheels are moving plenty so that they are enough to keep the engine spinning alone. I will almost guarantee this is NOT a transmission issue. My clutch doesn't smell, it disengages and engages properly, and the tranny NEVER grinds except if I don't go into a different gear before reverse, which I'm told is pretty normal. Another clue that this isn't the transmission is that when it bucks, the higher RPMS that it jumps to are the normal ones, and when the rpms drop, it is due to a loss of power. This I have tested by trying to floor it when I'm bucking, and it really doesn't do anything except kill the sometimes engine and I have to restart it. If it were a tranny problem, it would just go out. Can someone please tell me what's going on here? Is the toggle switch the cause of this? Bad TPS? Something else? All three? I'm happy to provide pictures, videos, or further explanation for anyone who wants to take this problem on with me. Thanks so much in advance. Also, I will include a video with this post as soon as it uploads to youtube. EDIT: I should probably include that it NEVER backfires. If I'm in neutral and the truck is warm, the engine sounds VERY strong and does not have any problem picking up RPMs when revving. It sounds like a beast, and when it's warm it rarely misses in idle. Video: Skip to 4:30 to see it buck hard in first gear. -
Just wondering if anyone else has this issue. This truck seems to have plenty of power until you put something behind it! Hauling a 4000lbs car hauler and the truck falls on it's face! A little worried since we just ordered up a brand new 2013 TT that wieghs in at 5600lbs. Is there a reason for this "bog" in power when something of weight is thrown behind the truck? Even at higher RPMs and using the tow/haul feature the truck still seems to struggle.
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Today Pop & Lock introduced their new line of power tailgate locks that wire directly into your truck's lock system and uses your existing key fob. With this system your tailgate locks automatically whenever you lock your truck, keeping your tailgate and belongings secure from theft. Pop & Lock's 99-07 Silverado/Sierra POWER tailgate lock kit. Official Press Release:
