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  1. Hey All! New to the site and new Chevrolet owner. I have a 17' Silverado in the Scar'e blue (or deep ocean metallic) Anyway its new to me but only has 30000kms (18700 miles) on it and I seem to notice the paint is weak! I have a ton of scratches on the rockers where the pervious owner must of dragged his feet to get it and even on my box right after the mud guard where its rocker guarded, i;ve noticed chips. Now its cold here in northern Ontario, but I bought a paint pen and spring is around the corner anyways! Do any of you have this issue of weak paint? and if so do any of you know about the strength of the primer (like will it take a while to rust?) Thanks !!!
  2. Hello all, I was cleaning my truck out this spring and noticed I was missing a few plugs for the holes that are located on the inside of the fenders (wheel wells) above the rear wheels. Any idea where I can buy these? Is there a part number? See pictures
  3. Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
  4. Morning! I recently purchased a 2015 Silverado 2500 for myself and I’ve come across a few things I didn’t know if anyone else had experience with. 1.) the previous owner had what I assume was a toolbox bolted into the bed and removed it when he sold it so there are about 10 small screw holes through the bed liner, didn’t know if there was a good way to weathertight seal these. 2.) there is some dried concrete in the bed liner and some comments I saw were that chemicals used to remove it also ate away the bed liner so I’m trying to avoid those ones. Not sure if there was a good way to remove it. 3.) the trailer hitch sleeve reducer was left in for a while and has rusted into the hitch itself, I’ve tried hammering it from inside out, using WD-40 and a couple other products with no progress at all.
  5. Ok so I have a 1983 gmc 1/2 ton that I'm wanting to build but I have some issues with rust in the windshield channel and I'm not entirely sure how I should go about repairing it.
  6. been rebuilding my suspension basically replacing all suspension and braking components. other then dealing with cheap chinese garbage for parts i am trying to fight the death toll that the treated roads in the northeast lead to. rust....... has anyone tried rust converters as opposed to removers and what sucess has there been? thinking of trying corroseal. has anyone else tried it. after looking at the cost of new similar models it looks like restoration is my only option. i cant believe what base models are going for?
  7. Hi folks, I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT. It’s beautiful & has many years of life left in her. I’m starting to see a tiny bit of rust/paint bubble in the rear wheel well & along the bottom of the door. What can I do to stop it before it becomes really noticeable? Thanks
  8. I purchased a brand new 2019 2500HD LTZ Iridescent Pearl, 2 weeks ago here in Oklahoma. The truck had 26 miles on the odometer. 3 days after I brought it home, I gave it its first washing. I was so proud of this brand new truck until I ran into rust, on the lower part of the doors. I thought to myself I just purchased a brand new truck for $60,000, why in the world am I seeing rust. I immediately crawled under the truck to find multiple components that have significant/moderate red rust showing. The trans pan and rear disc brake covers are losing their plating with rust coming through. I immediately contacted the salesman asking to bring the truck back and trade for a different one, but......I was told financing already went through and they could not take it back. That was 3 days of ownership. It's been very painful and disappointing to this point, but I did get the truck into the Service Manager and he took pics and trying to see what GM is willing to do. I just came back to Chevrolet after years of Purchasing Ford products. I even have my 1949 5 Window that I drove in college. Has anybody seen this before on brand new GM trucks? See Pics
  9. So I've been trying to figure out what exactly this piece is called as on one side of my truck it's rusted really bad as I've attached pictures of both sides. It's some kind of bolted-on support beam or crossmember, but when I look those up online it doesn't pull up anything of the sort. I put some POR-15 on both of them (that's why they're glossy) but I'd probably be better off buying a new set. It's a 2006 GMC Sierra 4.3
  10. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com April 12th, 2019 A few months ago we started to notice something on our 2019 Silverado that no owner of a brand new vehicle wants to see. Rust. Specifically on our rear bumper, just around the plastic step. It wasn't huge and didn't spread very far from the edge... but we couldn't stop noticing it. There was no excuse for rust on a 8 month old vehicle with less than 10,000 miles. The photo above shows the minimal but noticeable rust patch. It was even happening on both sides and in the same place. The issue seemed odd. Unfortunately, we've just been too busy to bring it by to our local dealership for them to look at. Lucky for us, our procrastination has paid off, because in the time between us first noticing the problem and getting off our lazy asses to drive to our dealer, GM has released a TSB about this very issue. It appears that on most of the early trucks, production of the bumper was completed incorrectly. The steel assemblies should be bent into shape then chrome plated. But that didn't happen in a small part of the early bumpers. The supplier bent the area around the side step after the bumper was chromed. The new folds in the steel damaged the chrome, cracking it and making the truck susceptible to rusting. What's the fix? If your bumper is rusting already, Chevy and GMC will replace it. If it has not yet started to rust, they will apply an automotive grade wax/sealant to prevent rust in the future. If you're unsure if your 2019 has this issue we suggest doing the following: 1. Give your truck a bath for heavens sake! 2. Clean the rear bumper step area with a hose or pressure washer. Front and back! We find lots of dirt collects behind our step in the bumper assembly. 3. Inspect around the foot step area and behind the foot step area. We found rust in both areas! 4. If in doubt, wait for it to rust and kindly ask for a new rear bumper. Our dealership, Banks Chevrolet in Concord, NH has been great getting our rust issue fixed. Our service adviser Justin has kept us in the loop during the repair and gave us a loaner Silverado LT while they have our truck. He even made sure any other outstanding service updates are also applied to our LTZ while it was in the shop. As it turned out, there were six open issues that needed addressed. Here's the official Service Update you can print out and bring to your dealer when you take your Silverado or Sierra in for service.
  11. The bed corners (getting thin) and the rear leaf shackles (lots of pack out) in particular may be a problem soon. But it's an awful pain in the butt to crawl around under there trying head off rust at the pass. How much longer do you think this truck's got before I have to worry about something giving out at max payload?
  12. Hey guys, I just bought a beater silverado that I intended to keep for a month or two. Just wondering what you think of the rust situation? Worth putting any work into the vehicle and keeping it going for a bit? It has 215, 000 km on it. Haven't dealt with a rust situation like this before. I'll show pictures of the worst parts.
  13. Hey I will try to keep this short and to the point. For some time, I have been considering whether or not to sell my 2007 Silverado. It is coming up on needing a lot of work and I figure if I can scrape up the cash to make the payment on a newer Silverado/Sierra it might be worth it. Before I forgot it is 4x4 and has about 95,000 miles on it. It is a long bed and has the 4.8 V8 engine. Anyway, the truck has been suffering from what I would call 'considerable' rust underneath to the frame and now it has began to get around the bottom of my paint job and chip it off. I was thinking about sanding it down (or having someone do it for me) and painting the lower six inches or so black. I have seen it done on a lot of trucks. It is also coming up on new brake pads, possibly calibers and rotors as well. Also it has never had the transmission oil changed so I am planning on changing the filter in the pan and doing that as well. So basically I am sort of beginning to wonder if I should consider selling it and purchasing a newer one. However, the truck has never left me on the side of the road and runs great.
  14. If you live somewhere they use salt on the roads in the winter, you've seen trucks 7-8 years old with rust holes in the bed, usually around the wheel wells. Unfortunately, all too common a problem. In an effort to slow the tin worm, I had my truck rustproofed by Ziebart. Had good luck with their system in years past, so I figured I'd get my Silverado Ziebarted. Now, this thread is not about how you feel about Ziebart or any of the other possible rust proofing choices, but what it's about is the bed wheel well liners. I did not take the liners out when I had the truck rustproofed originally, but I was going to do that last year when it went in for it's yearly check up/touch up. Forgot last year, but I removed them this year so they could spray the rustproofing product in the liner area, since it seems (to me at least) that when they begin to rust, that's the first area that starts to go. Pics below are of the rustproofing installed. Since I had the liners out, I figured I'd clean them with my power washer. HOLY CRAP. I wish I would have weighed the liners before I cleaned them, as there HAD to be 3-4 pounds of dirt in them. I power wash that area a couple of times a year, but I'd never seen that much dirt and road gunk come out of them before. That brings me to my current dilemma - do I reinstall the liners, or leave them out since I've got that area rustproofed now? They obviously hold a lot of water close to the body when wet, along with a lot of dirt, possibly contributing to corrosion. Then again, without them, even though the wheel wells have a coating of rustproofing material now, you have the possibility of rock chips that could be where corrosion begins. Comments, ideas, discussion, thoughts please.
  15. Hi all, I have seen several threads in the past where people asked about repairing the wax coating on their frame. This may be nice for others to know. I recently took my ride in to have a good once over before my 36 month warranty expired. No real issues with the truck at all. My frame had rust on it, but I didn't think it was that excessive for living in WI. But I asked about it when I was there. To my shock, they volunteered to repair the rust spots and re-coat it under warranty. Here's some before photos of my frame:
  16. I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 2003 ss silverado. It started with the brake lines and turned into way more. It's already lowered but I was wondering how low can I really make it without damaging the awd components. Don't have the money to experiment with different parts. It's currently lowered 3/4. Have tons on pictures I will add later.
  17. I am back to GM for my truck. I got a 2017 L5P High Country. I love the truck. I have a couple of gripes. The calipers have surface rust on them. I know it is surface, but I have had a bunch of trucks over the years. Never had rust on them. Not on GMC, Chevy, Toyota or Dodge. Also my brakes squeek at low speeds.. drives me up the wall. I have asked the dealer about it...they said for Chevy it is normal?? It sounds like bad design if that is true. I want to clean up my brake calipers but it is under warranty... Do they cover this ...as it is surface?? Thanks.
  18. Hi all, Next weekend I am going to be replacing the bed on my wife's 2007 Sierra 1500 (115k miles). The old one is rusty, and I picked up a new one for a amazing deal. while the bed is off, ill clean up the frame. I have been researching this, however I still have a few questions, I hope you guys can help me with: Are there 4 or 6 bolts? I can only find 4. Is it worth replacing the fuel pump? What Size are the bolts? Do I have to remove the bumper? Is this a fairly quick job? Thanks!
  19. So I have a 2004 Gmc Sierra SLE that I use as a gravel bomber/work/farm truck. Lately all the rust on the bottom rockers has been getting worse and driving me nuts just looking at it. I really can't afford to just bring it into a body shop and get it all fixed up properly, and don't really see the worth it being a $5000 truck at best. Was browsing online one day about the problem and came across these great plastic rocker guard covers from Bushwacker. https://www.amazon.ca/Bushwacker-14068-Rocker-Chevrolet-Extended/dp/B01I4Y1L1K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522179472&sr=8-3&keywords=bushwacker+trail+armor https://www.tdotperformance.ca/bushwacker-14068-trailarmor-rocker-panel-oe-matte-black.html Love these and it covers all the rust and lack of metal remaining Lol. Now I know its lipstick on a pig at this point but outta site outta mind. Wish up here in Canada they wouldn't salt the roads after every light dusting of snow so we could have nice things last longer. Here are some before and afters.
  20. So i bought my truck about 2 years ago didnt have any sign of rust. Well now im pissed. I have bubbles coming in on rear wheel wells and underside of doors. As im reading i see these truck have this problem with the 2 piece bed where the v shape of the two sheet metals met at the wheel well. I noticed the 3 rubber plugs you can remove. My question is should i just leave them out? Seriously my truck is immaculate untill now. And it went from one bubble to about 10 in less then a year. Kills me and the bottom side of doors are just as bad. Is that plastic dust gaurd on the bottom of doors what causes the problem? Should i remove those? (Crew cab). Im gonna show some pics too.
  21. So I noticed today that my 6 month old 2017 white sierra is developing Freckles. looks like tiny rust spots all down both sides and on the front bumper. When i saw the first bits it was on the door and i thought, oh no, maybe my tires have thrown rocks n stuff up and dug right through the clear and paint etc to the metal and now it's rusting, but as i looked harder there is tiny rust spots forming over most of the truck, including places where there is no chance of road debris hitting, and parts that aren't even metal underneath, like the door trim and the pillar post sticker things. Whole truck is looking like crap now and it's not even a year old. I'm able to rub some of the spots out so it seems like it might just be rail dust in the clear coat, anyone have any thoughts on this? is it covered under warranty? Is it something i can fix myself if not? pretty much new truck looks like a fat irish kid now, not impressed at all.
  22. I realize these trucks may not have seen enough salt, brine or calcium chloride yet. Perhaps there is a link to the previous 900 trucks. Do these new trucks have any protection or design upgrades that prevent the rockers from rotting out like the 800's and other Ford and Chrysler products? I notice the design is similar, with the multiple water/moisture drains on the bottom. Scares me a bit....
  23. Looking for advice/opinions on some rugged step bars. I've gone through two sets of GoRhino Dominator II with no luck at all. They did warranty the first set, polished black, after they were rusting out within a year. The second set, in textured black, is rusting out and looks horrible. The new set is barely a year old. I'm in Michigan so I deal with gravel roads daily and salt in the winter. Any bullet proof steps out there with the look of the GoRhino Dominator???
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