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Found 6 results

  1. All gears are working other than 1st, if you put it in drive it starts in 3rd, and you can manually shift it into 2nd but not 1st. I saw on some other forums it could be solenoid A is that right?
  2. 2015 Silverado 4.3L v6 WT 120,000 mi. PO had a code indicating oil pressure switch, which was leaking, and had one in the truck. Upon replacement mechanic says p06dd is now showing. Oil change at the same time as replacement. Truck indicates oil pressure. Cold idle 60, warm drops to 40 at idle, under 40 in park, 50 underway as high as 70 under acceleration. 2 mechanics say not to worry as there is good pressure. Is the solenoid something to worry about in the v6?
  3. Hey Guys, I have an 02 Silverado 1500 4WD with a code P0443 (and a P0171, but I don't know that those are connected). However for now I am working on the P0443 code, Purge Valve Solenoid Circuit? What I have done thus far: 1) Bought a new Purge Valve Solenoid, check engine light w/ code still on after clearing codes. 2) I tested the old and new solenoid with a power probe and blowing through to make sure it is engaging. ie. air can flow through with now power, but after power probe initiates the valve shuts and can no longer allow air to go through purge valve solenoid. 3) Attempted to test if power was going through to the plug going to the purge valve solenoid, appeared to be getting 12.3v. I'll admit I'm not electrical savvy, but I seemed to get voltage to the plug when the key was turned to "on" position. Thanks, what else can I look at, or re look over?
  4. So I just wanted to help everybody out by telling you my latest problem and repair with my 09 Silverado with FlexFuel 5.3. Please pin this to the top because this is by far the easiest, cheapest way to replace the vent solenoid on these trucks and this is a very common problem. I was showing a P0449 code which I decided seemed like the canister vent solenoid beside the gas tank connected to the Evap canister. The only reason I finally decided to fix it was because my remote start wouldn't work with a code thrown. Since it's getting cold again, I want that back. My first stop was the old interweb. What I found was this very useful article: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/75210-evap-vent-valve-solenoid/. I hope that link works. I don't post on forums often but people need to know this. A post by odayflor in this thread really helped me understand what was going on. That didn't help me figure out why my truck already had the dual port solenoid though so off I went to the dealer and Advance Auto Parts. What I finally found was this: Basically on 99-06 trucks there was a tube leaving the Evap canister that lead into a vent solenoid. This solenoid is ACDelco #214-2149 or GM #25932571. It has 1 inlet and vent from the round lid on the solenoid. Now this design was prone to clogging and producing a P0449 code so, In the 2009's or so they started building trucks with a solenoid that had 1 inlet and 1 outlet with a corrugated tube attached that was routed to above the transmission. There is no listing that corresponds to a 2009 having this dual port design at the dealer or any other aftermarket parts store until you get into the 2011-up models. They show the old single port design. Now if you go to the dealer with a 1999-2010 truck, they will tell you that you have to buy the conversion kit which is the later dual port solenoid and remote filter for ~$100 dollars, plus the jumper wire for $40, since the plugs have now changed on the solenoids(more on that later), and provide your own 5/8" heater hose and 4 hose clamps. This relocates the inlet above the transmission bellhousing in order to ,theoretically, prevent clogging and water contamination. Here's what they don't tell you, and won't even if you know this and ask about it. I was told "sounds like you're just grasping at straws" by my local friendly a** rapist GM parts dealer. In there parts catalog, a 2011 Crew Cab Short Box Silverado lists a GM #20981705 ACDelco # 2142339. From RockAuto it costs $48.79. and only $75 at the actual dealer. This is a dual port Solenoid, bracket, supply hose with quick disconnect fitting, corrugated vent tubing, and remote filter with shield all pre-assembled. This particular part number is for a Crew Cab with a short box but there are 2 other part numbers to accomodate the other length hoses for the other length trucks just check out RockAuto. I decided to just order it and see just out of curiosity. Guess what? It fits my 2009 like a glove!!!! Even down to the matching OEM parts numbers stamped on the parts. Once done, I reset the code by pulling the battery clamp for 30 seconds and she started right up with the remote start. So instead of buying the retrofit kit from the dealer for $100 then cobble it together with heater hose and clamps, you can buy the whole factory assembly for $48.79. On the Jumper wire. This is necessary any way that you go for the most part. I've seen some people post that they didn't need them with aftermarket brands but I definitely did with the original ACDelco one. The reason being is that GM changed the replacement solenoid plug style from an "oval" to a "square" style plug in. On RockAuto it's only $17.73 ACDelco #19257603 so order it too. So, If you have a 99-2010 and only have the single inlet solenoid and simply want to replace that and don't want to fool with a relocated filter, use ACDelco 214-2149. But if you already have a dual port solenoid or you want to replace your single port with a relocated filter assembly use ACDelco # 214-2339 for crew cab short box trucks (remember to check @RockAuto to confirm fitment on your length truck) and for $78 shipping and all, you can have a factory part that doesn't look like its been all hacked up and will only take a 13mm wrench and about 10 minutes time to install. It even comes with clamps on the corrugated tubing to snap it to brake lines along the way so its not just dangling.
  5. Hello Everyone, I hope you all are doing well. I have a 98 GMC Suburban 4x4 and my transmission has been acting funny. At first it went into Limp mode and would only run in second and third gears. I had the code pulled and it was the 3-2 solenoid. I replaced it today and topped the transmission off. After doing so i proceeded to test drive the vehicle. The trans slipped a little going into first but other than that did fine. It shifted between each gear smoothly. I headed home 20-30 minutes after the test drive. 20-25 minutes into the trip, on the interstate, The vehicle Downshifted and the rpms shot up. At first it down shifted and the Rpms went up to 3 and stopped then they went to 4 and it down shifted again. i pulled over and restarted it. I proceeded to try and accelerate again and was unable to get the burb past 30 mph without the RPMs jumping up and losing power. Does anyone have any ideas on what this might be? If you need any more information please let me know.
  6. My truck has 123K miles on it. The transmission is a 6 speed 6L80. About a month ago I was towing a 23' 8'6" beam, 5000 pound ski boat about 300 miles. The transmission temp maxed out around 193. About 100 miles before our destination the check engine light came on. It was late and we were going through small towns so I did not have a chance to check the code. I was in tow haul mode and never noticed any issue. The next day the CEL was gone. Yesterday I was driving around unloaded and had the truck fail to shift and rev up to 3K+ rpm. At that time I noticed that the CEL was back. I was half a mile from home. I do not believe that it shifted on the way home, it seemed to be locked in gear. Once home I stopped and restarted the engine. After restarting the CEL remained but the transmission seemed to function normally. Later I drove 15 miles into town to have the code read. The codes were P2715 and P0700. I did not ask to have the codes cleared. I have had an issue with the 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd shift where it seems to be a delayed shift with some revving between for years. This seems to happen when I am not accelerating hard or loaded. Today I drove about a 25 mile loop to talk to a transmission guy I know and take the kids for a snack. On the way I shifted manually up and down through the gears. It shifted smoothly. On a short divided highway section I floored it to accelerate. It downshifted twice. The first was smooth and good. It seemed to have some free revving with the second, although I may just be overly critical about this. The transmission fluid was changed approximately 10K to 15K miles ago. I am hoping that others can share their experience with and solutions for similar issues with this transmission. What do you guys suggest? Thanks in advance.
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