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Showing results for tags '1999'.
Found 17 results
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Hello, I’m thinking about putting a six inch lift from superlift on my 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd, extended cab. My question today is what would be the recommended wheel size (both tire and rim) for this setup and I’d like it to preferably stick out on the side a bit but it’s not needed. I know many run 35” but again I’m not sure.
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Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
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I have a 99 gmc sierra that I just bought. While im driving down the road I noticed a whine in the drivetrain, I noticed that the 4wd switch wasnt lighting up so I checked the fuses and the ATC fuse had been removed. I put in the correct fuse and the 4wd switch came on. Once it came on it said the truck was in 4hi. I tried to switch it into 2hi and theres a whining noise coming from the transfer case. It makes 2 long whining noises and the 2hi light flashes the it goes right back to 4hi. I cant get it to change into any other mode (4lo, auto4, 2hi). I bought the truck a week ago and im scared im going to grenade the transfer case by driving it like this. Can you please point me in the right direction.
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I have a 1999 s10 blazer with a 4.3 motor i'm putting in a 2002 4.3 motor and the crank sensor whole is different what can i do? Are there any other differences i know about as well? -
I need help with my 1999 4 door 4x4 Chevrolet tahoe. It sat in the yard without a battery in it for a few months. When I put a battery in it and tried to crank it the anti theft wouldn't let it. It starts for a second or 2 and immediately cuts off. A friend of mine put a jumper wire from the I believe pink and orange wires in the steering column saying it would bypass the anti theft And it worked. Crunk up fine. No problem. Well then he touched a wire to something or another wire and it sparked. And now it won't start again. If anyone has any information that might help me it would be appreciated
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I have a 99 GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 and i was wondering if there is a specific brand of o2 sensor that i need to use... because someone was telling me that i have to use OEM for this truck because they dont like NON-OEM o2 sensors. and that they act up and jump all over the place. this guy wanted to charge me $89.99 a plug as well... can someone please help me out with this i would greatly appreciate it... -
So My current 2001 4 door Blazer plow truck/daily driver needs a ton of work. It has over 243K on the clock, very low oil pressure, a leaky heater core, cracked windshield, and multiple emissions problems that I've been leaving unfixed because I don't care (EGR, Air pump, etc.). Oh, and lots and lots of rust. Did I mention it's a 4 door, I hate 4 doors. Anyways, I saw a 1999 Two door ZR2 show up on Facebook Marketplace with 134K and an engine knock for $580 bucks with brand new tires so I immediately message the seller and went to look at it. I talked him down to $500 and towed it back to my shop. Oh, and it even had a full tank of gas. (bonus!) Sounds like a bad rod knock. Will most likely need a crankshaft, rod and rebuild, but I might be able to find a cheap used engine. I already located the correct pushplates locally to mount the fisher plow, So I'll pick those up sometime this week (they are different plates than the standard Blazer takes). Tomorrow after work I will pull the oil pan and see what actually failed. So here's a pic of the truck: and here's a picture of my current 2001 Blazer that is going to be retired (junk yard) after I keep it for a few months to rob any parts that I may need for the new one. And my beat Fisher Plow:
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I don't know much about vehicles, or forums at that. I know enough obviously to have looked up & changed out the shift column mechanism. Now for some reason when Im at slow speeds my brakes are wanting to lock up? Could this have something to do with something not being plugged back in right or? Im lost on this one. -
Hopefully I didn't miss this being posted already, if so, I'm sorry. I have a 2004 Tahoe, 2WD, 4.8L, 4L60E. Transmission went out, I have a 1999 Silverado 5.3L, 4L60E 4x4 with transfer case. The only thing I noticed different besides having the transfer case and extra plugs on the 99 harness for said transfer case, is the neutral safety switch on the 99 4x4 trans has a 2 plug harness vs my 2004 Tahoe trans with a single harness plug. Am I able to use this 4x4 trans in my 2WD Tahoe? I'm assuming I could swap the safety switch, and leave the front driveshaft off? Also finding a rear driveshaft off of a 4x4 Tahoe since mine and the donor truck's driveshaft would be too long, I'd assume? I've been told I could and I've been told I couldn't. I've swapped transmissions before, but never done anything like this, so I'd just like some insight if someone could help me on this topic I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
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Hello everyone, I have an issue this morning with my z71. I loaded my truck down with house hold garbage.. Turned on the truck no issue that I noticed ( Havent started the truck in a week) Got in to drive then noticed all the lights on the 4wd selector on the dash were lit and the service 4wd was reporting on the dash console. I unhocked the battery for 5 mins and tested again, same issues. Hooked up tester ODB2 no errors. Can anyone help me with this? Any advice?
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I've searched the forum but found no useful information. I just purchased a 19999 Silverado 1500. The truck came with no keyless entry remotes. The power door locks do not work at all. When I push the lock/unlock button I can here a clicking inside the doors the first time I push it. All subsequent pushes of the button result in no noise. The locks operate easily manually and with the key. What I've tried so far: 1. checked and tested all the fuses and relays in the fuse panel at the end of the drivers side dash. All the fuses and relays are good. Does anyone have any other ideas about what to check before I rip off both door panels and replace the actuators? -
My 1999 GMC K2500 after I swapped the old steel wheels to 2003 Duramax aluminum wheels. HUGE difference!-
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My 1999 GMC K2500 after I swapped the old steel wheels to 2003 Duramax aluminum wheels. HUGE difference! -
My 1999 GMC K2500 after I swapped the old steel wheels to 2003 Duramax aluminum wheels. HUGE difference! -
I just replaced the front bearings on both sides of my 99' Silverado Z71. But now the brakes are giving me issues. When im going slow is where i have the issues. It feels as if they lock up and all you hear is kinda like a bad power steering noise. the pads are almost new. I dont know what this could be. Can anyone help.
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My 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 lost all oil pressure, and then a little later engine shut off. Did not make any loud noises, It just died. When we went to restart it, we could here the starter engage, but the engine wouldn't turn over. So we had it towed, and the guy at the tow shop put a wrench on it and tried to turn it, but was unable to. We have done no further troubleshooting, this happened on January 1, 2018. We assumed it is seized. What I am wondering is what you guys think, is it likely that it seized or is something else more likely to be the problem? If it is seized what part would have seized up? And would it be better to rebuild the engine, or to put a new engine in it? The truck has about 200k miles on it, and ran perfectly before this happened. It is the new body style, btw.
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From the album: 2002 GMC 2500HD build
I replaced all the headlights and tail lights with LED. Did Herculiner on the bottom of the truck. Dual exhaust, Fast 80mm throttle body and street tune. It was a real street tune from a shop not one from a can. A leveling kit sitting on 285/70/17's.
