Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '4.3'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • GM-Trucks.com Original News & Product Reviews
    • General Motors Product and Industry News
    • The GM-Trucks.com Garage - Vehicle Testing & Product Reviews
    • The Newsroom Archive
    • The Garage Archive
  • Future Vehicle Discussion
    • Silverado / Sierra & Future Vehicle Speculation & Spy Shots
    • 2022 GMC HUMMER EV Electric Pickup
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2019 - 2020 - 2021 T1XX Platform
    • 2019 / 2020 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2020 Silverado HD & Sierra HD (2500/3500)
    • 2021 Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL & Escalade
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2014-2019 K2XX Platform
    • 2014 - 2018 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2015-2020 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon Denali
    • 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD (2500/3500)
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 1999-2006 GMT800 & 2007-2013 GMT900 Platforms
    • 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
    • 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HD
  • Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2015-2020 Colorado & Canyon
    • 2005-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
  • Midsize Crossover - 2017-2020 C1XX Platform
    • 2017-2020 Traverse, Acadia, Enclave & XT5
    • 2019 - 2020 Blazer
  • Classic Chevrolet / GMC Pickup Trucks
    • 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
    • 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickups
    • 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Glamour / Action Line Pickups
    • 1960-1966 Chevrolet C/K/Apache & GMC 1000-3000 Pickups
    • 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/Jimmy
    • 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize Jimmy
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale/Wanted
    • Member & Vendor Rating Forum
    • Member Product Reviews
  • GM-Trucks.com is supported by
    • Adam's Premium Car Care
    • Agri-Cover
    • Arnott Air Suspension
    • Black Bear Performance
    • GMPartsDirect.com
    • UPR Products
    • Synthetic Advantage
  • The Lounge
    • Off-Topic
    • Automotive Industry & Market Discussion
    • New Member Introductions
    • Meetups, Events, & Gatherings
    • GM-Trucks.com Comment Box
  • Hobbies & Lifestyle
  • Technical & Advanced
  • Chevrolet, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Crossovers
  • Commercial Vehicles
  • Black Truck Club's Topics
  • Texas Owner's Group's Topics
  • California Owner's Group's Topics
  • New England Owner's Group's Topics
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Topics
  • South Carolina Silverado Owners's Topics
  • Canadian Owners Club's Topics
  • SCUBA divers of GM-Trucks's Scuba Talk
  • Red Truck Club's Topics
  • Idaho Sierra & Silverado Owners Club's Idaho
  • Colorado Trucks's Exhaust Setups
  • Colorado Trucks's Pics of trucks
  • SEO Paint's seo color ordered
  • NorthSky Blue Club's NorthSky Blue Metallic
  • NorthSky Blue Club's Pics
  • diesel 3.0's Topics

Calendars

  • Events
  • Birthdays
  • Texas Owner's Group's Events
  • California Owner's Group's Events
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Events
  • Red Truck Club's Events

Categories

  • Articles
  • News
  • Reviews
    • Project Sierra
  • Resources

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


Yahoo


Skype


Facebook


Twitter


Name


Location


Interests


Drives

Found 31 results

  1. Hi I have a 2015 Chev Silverado, 4.3 engine with a new engine put in 100,000km ago as oil pump went on it before. Now I have a miss on cylinder 5. I swapped coils from cylinder 5 to cylinder 1, new spark plugs put in on cylinder 5 and 3, put new spark plug wires on 1,3,&5. Got injectors all cleaned and tested. Checked and replaced the oil pressure filter on it. And still have a steady miss on cylinder 5 still, which is more apparent when the engine warms up. Did a compression test with cylinder 5 being at 130psi and cylinder 1 also being at 130psi and that was engine cold and hot . I am on a total loss of where to go now. Other than replace the engine or rip it all apart. Could use some insight PLEASE. Thanks in advance
  2. Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#[email protected] or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!!
  3. Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#[email protected] or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!!
  4. I have a 1999 s10 blazer with a 4.3 motor i'm putting in a 2002 4.3 motor and the crank sensor whole is different what can i do? Are there any other differences i know about as well?
  5. Im swapping a 4.3 out of a silverado 2003 into a 1996 silverado trans is 4l60 e. Out of a 1998 jimmy they changed transmission to ls style for. 2003 4.3. Do they sell adapters for this. Or a special torque converter. Can I just use the ls to 4l60e adapter with new bell housing if I swap trans to 2003 it moves everything back 3/4 of an inch do I have to modify drive shaft trans mount
  6. I'm trying to swap 4.3 2003 into 1998 4l60e its done on ls swaps all the time I think I need bellhousing flex plate torque converter adapter anyone chime in no negative Nancy's please
  7. 2014 Silverado 1500 2wd 4.3l DI. 150,000 miles. Fleet vehicle with decos oil changes every 4,000 miles. Came in with a misfire. Counters showed cyl 1. Replaced plugs and wires (Delco). No change. Looked at injector balance and seemed to have a bad #1 injector. Replaced 1,3, and 5 injectors (delco) and the 2 stainless under manifold fuel lines. No change. Removed 1 and 3 plugs compression seemed very low on cyl 1. Performed induction service (BG). No change. Re-performed compression test. Much better 210 psi but still running like crap. Pulled left valve cover and removed #1 cyl rockers to close valves. Performed leakdown test. Only 5% leak at 100 psi. Help?!?
  8. Hi, first time posting on here, I hope I am not bringing up an issue that has been solved or brought up elsewhere. Here we go, I have a 2015 single cab swb 4x4 that came with a 4.3/6l80e, i have swapped this to a 2017 l86/ 8l90e. Truck was fully operational prior to swap no issues, upon completing the mechanical portion of the swap and starting the electrical checkout I have run into some issues. Truck will power up bcm/ gauge cluster with no issue/ lights but I have no ecm activation as fars fuel system coming on or engine rolling over. I am getting the following DTCs: 2535, U0100, 1029( low voltage from fuel system). I have reached out to 8+ different shops for assitance and offered to pay for their time but have not recieved a solution or either not enough experience with newer truck/ motor systems, if there is anyone that has any thoughts/ recommendations/ experience/ solutions on this would be great or a capable shop around north Texas, I am all ears, really excited to figure out what is going and get this on the road. Also everything is 100% factory parts other than texas speed cam and delete kit.
  9. I'm looking at a 2015 1500 with a 4.3, 3.42 gears. I would add a leveling kit with 33x12.5s. What should I be expecting for gas mileage? Would a 5.3 get better MPG with the lift/tires? What is your current tire/lift/engine/mpg? I tried the search feature but couldn't find a ton of what I was looking for.
  10. 2017 Chevy Sliverado. Does anyone make a cheaper 4.3 LV3 intake tube, that goes between the airbox and throttle body, than Airaid? $169.00 is a lot of money for a curved piece of plastic. I just want to get rid of that huge piece of plastic so I can see the down the front of the engine. I could make one from a turbo plumbing kit, but it would be easier to plug and play. Thanks.
  11. Here's an issue that has me stumped. 2000 Silverado, 4.3, 200K mi. Truck runs great, no oil consumption. I have a very random oil pressure fluctuation, normally I have 40 psi (+ or - 5psi) pretty steady, not affected by rpm or temp. about 20,000 mi. ago I started getting a lifter tick on start up accompanied by crazy fluctuation in oil pressure relative to rpm ( 15psi at idle and 60+ at 3500) It will do this for maybe a week and then stop....no tick and steady oil pressure again. Truck has always had regular oil changes with quality oil (dino) and a Wix filter, I've tried Lucas oil additive, Marvel, different viscosities between 10-30 and 15-40 nothing makes it worse or better. Seems to go away by itself and then return completely at random. Sometimes it will go 5k with no issues, other times maybe 2k. Not affected by oil changes or mileage...just comes and goes. Always lifter tick and oil fluctuation....tick goes away and so does crazy oil pressure. WTF is going on?
  12. I am really interested in swapping out my 4.3 Vortec for a v8 in my 2003 Silverado 4x4 5speed manual. Any tips or advice and what is needed for this swap? I have read some posts about this but they all have different info on what is needed and difficulty etc.. thanks!
  13. I picked up a 2018 Silverado custom with the 4.3 a few months ago, i love it so far but the only thing i dont like is that it is way to quiet compared to my old silverado. Has anyone put an exhaust on that makes a little more noise but dosen't make the v6 sound like a subaru? I want some noise out of this beast!
  14. GM/Chevrolets claimed tow rating doesn't add up when crunching the numbers between the 4.3 V6 3.42 model vs the 5.3 V8 3.08 model (2014-2018). Look at the last two columns in the below chart for torque (ft./lbs.) coming out the differential towards the wheels. (These numbers do NOT account for drive train loss, at the wheel ratio changes due to various tire sizes, and the engine torque was taken as published (383 for 5.3 and 303 for 4.3 V6). The ROWS are gears 1 (top) through 6 (bottom). The formula used was: Step 1) Transmission gear ratio multiplied by Rear end gear ratio = Final Drive Ratio. Step 2) Final Drive Ratio multiplied by engine torque = TORQUE coming out of the differential to the wheels. Torque coming out of the differential and to the wheels what gives a vehicle its POWER to pull and move weight. The 5.3 with 3.08 BEATS (MORE POWER) the 4.3 with 3.42 in EVERY GEAR I understand there is more to ratings for tow capacity than just pulling power, however the 5.3 and 4.3 share the same frame, suspension, 6 speed transmission, etc. which means the only variable between the two models is the engine. Since the 5.3 with the 3.08 rear end CLEARLY has MORE torque going to the wheels than the 4.3 with the 3.42 rear end how does Chevy/GMC claim that the V6 model can tow more? The only thing I can think of is MAYBE the 4.3 runs cooler than the 5.3 so the engine is capable of sustaining high RPMs for a longer period of time...
  15. Hey fellas. New to the site. Just picked up a new 2017 Sierra 4.3 Ecotec3 a few weeks ago. As you can see by the pic, I wasted no time in sprucing her up. I did a ton of research on this new V6 prior to buying, and decided to give it a try. Anyway...Ive read alot (mostly from GM sources) talking about the performance benefits with with using E85 in this particular engine. The numbers are impressive, but I remain skeptical. Everything I've ever been told about Ethanol in flex fuel motors, is "stay away". The long term damage on metal components just isnt worth it. But I'm being led to believe that is no longer an issue with this new V6? Open to any and all suggestions. Keep in mind, MPG is not a factor. My drive to work is 8 miles, and E85 here in Indy is a full $1 cheaper than unleaded per gallon.
  16. Thinking about doing this but not sure how it will sound? It's a larger V6 so I'm thinking, not bad? FlowMaster, Borla? This isn't something you can easily "take back" so I'm looking for people who have actually done it and are pleased with the sound. I'm not going to do it if it sounds like a "V6".
  17. I am hoping to start up a good conversation on upgrades/information/etc on the 4.3L V6 Ecotec3 engine. There isn't much info on here about it. Well...I can't be the only Silverado 1500 owner with that engine. Just looking to see what people have done. Any issues? Just a good informational forum/topic.
  18. 2015 Silverado Regular cab with 4.3 V6. Has just under 14,000 miles. The other day after work I drove to the store and was gone for about 15 min. I kept my phone plugged into the charger. Came out, started the truck and it acted like it was gasping for fuel. Almost like starting up an old lawn mower. It then started surging a few times until I hit the gas and gave it some real juice. Then it became normal. This has only happened one time but it scared me. The only thing different I've been doing lately is running E85 fuel. On my 3rd tank of E85. Temperature has been in the high 50s to mid 60s. So not sure. Any input? Was just inspected and had synthetic oil change two weeks ago.
  19. Hello everyone! I recently purchased my first GMC sierra, 4.3l work truck to haul some kayaks and get me through the winter. while driving it home i tested the 4x4 and it all worked, the 4lo was a little clunky to get into but i had no problem engaging it. after a few miles i started hearing a clacking sound, it sounded a lot like a U-joint so i investigated when i got home and found it to be coming from the transfer case. there was a leak at the rear output shaft seal, so i replaced that and went to drain and put fresh fluid in, but to my horror there was almost nothing in there, and what came out was a black thick sludge, so i put fresh fluid in and drained it again. again what came out was better looking than before but still clearly dirty. so i finally put in another 2 quarts of dex IV that the dealer said i should be using, and have been driving it for a day or two less than 50 miles. when today noticed that the shift lever is stuck and i cant move to any of the 4x4 gears. the linkage is free i played with it and it moves around. the things that has me perplexed is that the 4x4 worked after the fluid change. i don't know much about transfer cases, and am hoping someone with more knowledge could point me in the right direction on what my issue could be. sorry for the rambling i was trying to get as much information in as possible that i thought could be helpful.
  20. Yesterday my odometer turned 10,000 kms. on my trouble free V6 in my 2015 Sierra 1500 CC 4X4. I have used my truck for every type of task I would/will use it for and haven't once been disappointed. The V6 will provide more than enough power for the majority of people and is only lacking in the bragging rights enjoyed by its bigger brothers. I decided to do something about it because nobody riding I'm my truck can tell its not a V8 unless I tell them! (I did post this picture on the thread telling what you did to your truck today)
  21. I have a 2006 Silverado WT with the 4.3 and NV3500, and am in the process of ordering everything for a clutch swap within the next week or so. I'm almost fairly certain I want to go with an Exedy clutch kit, including master and slave cylinder. I've used Exedy before and have been happy with it thus far. What I really can't decide on is what brand flywheel to use. I'm leaning toward a Sachs NFW1055, but I've only seen one review on it and the person mentioned it was incorrectly balanced and it had to be sent back. Just seeing if anyone else has done a clutch swap on a 4.3 and what brands were used. I probably wouldn't normally ask, but Exedy doesn't appear to make a flywheel for this truck, leaving me to find an alternate brand flywheel. Also, the main reason I'm doing a clutch swap is because the truck shifts and drives horrendously. Grinding gears, clutch pedal engaging at the floor, jerky engagement, etc. I've seen mixed information on different forums about this issue never really being resolved and some people never get a properly functioning clutch before it's over. I've seen comments as simple as someone had the same symptoms and swapped the clutch and it drove like new. Then I've seen people say there is a GM service bulletin out over trucks assembled in Mexico using the wrong master cylinder and a revised replacement part has to be used, a clutch swap has been done with little change in symptoms, etc. I'm hoping replacing the entire clutch system will take care of all this. Input on this would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks!
  22. I have a 96 GMC Sierra 1500 with a blown 4.3. I just want to put a another 4.3 in it. Could anyone tell me if I can use a 4.3 out of like an s10 or blazer? I know I'll have to swap things like harness, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds etc. But isn't the over all engine the same? And is there a year range I should stick too?i figured 96 to98 or so but I'm no gm expert. Thanks in advance.
  23. After searching multiple threads trying to decide what brand of new/used truck to buy I landed at a Silverado because of the range device. My goal was to have a light duty truck that gets around 20 MPG. My mechanic buddies said hell no to the Siverado due to AFM problems. No to Nissan because alot of the stuff under the hood needs the cab of the truck removed to access. No to Ford because it's Ford and I just flat out don't care for a Dodge. So I picked up the new V6 which broke my rule of never buying the first year of a new motor. On slightly hilly and curvy county roads in Mid Missouri I got 21.4 mpg average with v4 activated. I am averaging 19.4 with the Range plugged in. It has yet to run my battery down. Longest without a start would be 3 days. The shift points were definitley smoothed out except first to second going up hill and that doesn't happen all the time. Stock tires also. The reason I didn't do the tune is that I didn't want to take a chance on voiding the warranty by making changes to the computer. Truck had 26,000 miles when purchased. If you get the V6 on a flat highway you could probably jump the MPG up to 21 or higher as I have seen this on short trips. Hope this helps.
  24. When I bought my 2015 silverado it came with 255/70/17 tires/rims, but I recently purchased some 22-inch rims with 285/45/22 tires. I'm not sure what gear ratio I have on my truck and I also don't know if I need to changed them. It's a 2015 Regular Cab Silverado LS 4.3L
  25. I have been researching a lot and I'm trying to figure out what the best 4 inch lift is by people that actually has experience in the lifts. My truck is only 2wd just want the lift for looks and not getting stuck as easy. I have also ready the 2.5 leveling kit with 1.5 body lift will give a better ride quality then a suspension lift. Is this true? I was thinking about going with bds but because it's not going to truly be an off road vehicle I don't want to put too much money into the suspension I also just don't want to go cheap. Can anyone share their experiences with the lifts?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.