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Showing results for tags '4.8l'.
Found 9 results
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got a question for anyone thats on the forum and has some motor knowledge? I have a 2008 silverado with a ly2 ironblock,799heads,factory truck intake,cai,Mike norris motorsports dyno tune (hes locall to me),longtube,and 3" pro series flowmasters dumped. truck runs awesome for what it is. tunes been on the truck for a little over a year and ive started getting white smoke on a hot start after running the dog ****** out of it a slight hesitation on the start but nothing concerning except the smoke its got a oil smell to it not a sweet coolant smell and my coolant reservoir is full and doesn't lose coolant . cold start no smoke. putting a cam in this fall/winter and didn't know if oil is blowing by the rings meaning the rings are shot or if the head is bad or gasket idk trying to prepare myself for the worst.
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This noise is driving me nuts it starts as a squeal but then sounds like a tap when the rpms go up it doesn’t get louder but faster as the rpm’s rise I pulled the Serpentine belt and still got the noise I haven’t pulled the compressor belt yet still trying to figure out how to get that one off if anyone has any ideas what this noises please help me I thank you very much -
Hello everyone this is my first time posting anything here but I’m a long time reviewer of post. So I apologize if this is written somewhere else but I can’t seem to find it. So recently like a week ago I bought a 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8l crew cab. Well last the few morning when I have gotten in my truck to go to work my truck has been had to start it just cranks but doesn’t roll over until I hold the gas pedal down but then surges up and down sometimes dies then repeat but after that once I start driving it’s perfectly fine no miss no studer. I can even turn the truck off and it’ll start right back up it seems to do this only after about 4-5 hrs of not being on. Now I’m hearing a ticking noise that has started slowly but now has gotten louder it seems to go with the rpms but the engine drowns it out at a certain point. It sounds like it’s coming from the bottom of the motor more towards the passenger side. It’s not a pulley I have already tried that. I just changed he oil and noticed his reddish brown stuff under my oil cap. My oil was clean when I changed it there was no coolant in it the truck doesn’t smoke or knock I haven’t noticed any coolant loss or oil consumption but I’ve only had it a week. The oil does smell gassie but nothing to concerning. Any info that can point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Hello everyone this is my first time posting anything here but I’m a long time reviewer of post. So I apologize if this is written somewhere else but I can’t seem to find it. So recently like a week ago I bought a 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8l crew cab. Well last the few morning when I have gotten in my truck to go to work my truck has been had to start it just cranks but doesn’t roll over until I hold the gas pedal down but then surges up and down sometimes dies then repeat but after that once I start driving it’s perfectly fine no miss no studer. I can even turn the truck off and it’ll start right back up it seems to do this only after about 4-5 hrs of not being on. Now I’m hearing a ticking noise that has started slowly but now has gotten louder it seems to go with the rpms but the engine drowns it out at a certain point. It sounds like it’s coming from the bottom of the motor more towards the passenger side. It’s not a pulley I have already tried that. I just changed he oil and noticed his reddish brown stuff under my oil cap. My oil was clean when I changed it there was no coolant in it the truck doesn’t smoke or knock I haven’t noticed any coolant loss or oil consumption but I’ve only had it a week. The oil does smell gassie but nothing to concerning. Any info that can point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Hello I am a 20 year old that has put more money then I should in my truck but its mine so I want to do something that has been done before but isn't something everyone has. I was to take out my stock 4.8L motor and 4L60E tranny and drop a moded 6.0L with a 4L80E. I am a college student so I am seeking for mods and also some of the things I will have to take into consideration. I don't have to much money to do this (like I said I'm in college) so some cost saving mods and ways to this this will be great as well. I also wonder how the rear axel will be holding up if I do this and if I will need to change the gears. This truck is special to me for the fact I bought it off my moms soon to be husband before he passed away a year ago. just trying to build something unique and that he'd be proud of.
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hi I have 2011 Silverado 4.8l trans temp is getting up to 93 Celsius while idling and engine temp gets to about 112 Celsius than drop back down to 90 and 100 than climbs again only while idling I have 75000 km on it so not much I always keep an eye on trans temp and it usually only around 40-50 Celsius and engine temp has never gone past 100 before on me so just wonder what it could be before it gets worse or if this is normal for these trucks -
im new to the site, im nick i drive a 2002 silverado 4.8L 2wd step side mileage 240k dont tell me to sell or junk my truck the truck has been kept up with pretty well. In the mornings or after the tuck has been sitting a while i will get a pretty noticable ticking for about 30 seconds at startup until the engine warms up, i also get kind of a cough up of white smoke out the pipe at the same time, both of these symptoms go away after about 30 seconds. the truck will drive normal and strong until the first time i have to gas it into traffic or an incline/boat ramp, pretty much anytime i get into the gas pretty hard i get the loud ticking and smoke with a big sluggesh power loss at the same time. things to note- about once every 2 weeks i get a low oil light, i check the stick and its bone dry...heres where it gets funky, if i add only about a quart and a half the stick reads alost an entire half inch PAST full on the stick, so from bone dry to over full with a quart and a half????? No, there is no oil stains on my driveway no coolant in my oil or vice versa it is the oem factory dip stick i did a compression check, all the chambers on the drivers side are even at 140 in all cylinders, all chambers in passenger side are at 170 exept one was 180, im not worried about the pressure changes from that 10psi on the passenger side of the motor but what i do find strange is how one entire side is lower by about 30psi than the other head, warped head? head gasket? the plugs did look a little white corrosive and a few inparticular had a bit of carbon build up on them i took my valve covers off and inspected the lifters checked all the oil passages that i could see from there, no sludge or anything to note, brand new valve cover gaskets, no visible leaks from the exterior of the engine were could all this oil be going, it doesnt seem to be enough smoke in the orning or while im hitting the gas hard to be burning that much oil? could a cracked or bad valve seat be the culpret? im starting to get frustrated and how the heck can it go from empty to full with 1 1/2 quart??? ive tried this while hot and cooled down, always on level ground... im sure whatever is going on with the oil loss is the culprit for the ticking and smoke, I just cant seem to figure it out any help would be appreciated -
I Drive a 2000 Sierra that has a 4.8L Vortec in it The engine has 128,000 miles or so on it now. I drive a fair amount, almost 3,000 miles every month or so going back and forth to School and upstate New York. That being said, conventional oil doesn't stay as clean as I'd like it to and I find myself changing it almost every month and the money adds up. I'm wondering if it's safe to change it over to Synthetic oil (Without it leaking) and whats the best way to go about it? If I can get away with changing the oil less often by using Synthetic, would be great. I do oil changes from 3,000 to 3,500 miles, but I don't know what the previous owner maintained, because when I got it, It was a bit of a mess. So i have no idea the conditions of the oil seals. I'd appreciate any feedback I can get!
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I have an 05 4.8L Sierra with 293k miles. The last few weeks my truck has had a bit of a rough idle but runs fine other than that. Then my engine light flashed a few times which was P0308. I don't have a scanner that shows missfire count but i can say that in the last two weeks of driving back and forth to work 8 miles both ways, the CEL has only flashed once for P0308. I have swapped coils, wires, plugs, and injectors and it made no difference. I've sprayed carb cleaner around the intake with no change in idle/sound. After fighting with a compression gauge with damaged threads and dropping a plug on the concrete, ground strap down, i finally got to test compression today but the engine was cold and i only tested one side. Dry tests: Cyl 8: 140 Cyl 6: 195 Cyl 4: 190 Cyl 2: 215 Cylinder 8 wet test came out at 215. Fuel pressure with key on was 50, running at idle: 58. With all that said, this truck burns around half a quart of oil between oil changes (5k intervals) The compression test seems pretty conclusive that the rings are bad in cylinder 8. Should I give up and accept the fact that this engine is just about done or could there be something else causing the missfire?
